Chargery 16s BMS

[the prodigal son]

i ordered this BMS and it didn’t come with the relay. Does anyone have experience with BMS?

 

[Bob B]

SSR testing

Hopefully tonight I will be able to test my SSR's I have 250 Amp and 500 Amp ones. Obviously the first test is weather or not they work. I was also going to run them under load and check temperature often to see how they heat up with and without a heat sink. Does anybody have any other tests...

diysolarforum.com

There are several Chargery threads if you do a search.

 

[the prodigal son]

Ok thanks. I need a relay and the BMS is a 100amp. What size relay do I need. They are asking me the maximum charge and discharge rate. Help. Lol

 

[Craig]

Ok what equipment are you using. Can you tell us your panel,SCC, and inverter specs. I would be glad to help.

 

[Pacer]

Craig to the rescue! ?

 

[the prodigal son]

Ok what equipment are you using. Can you tell us your panel,SCC, and inverter specs. I would be glad to help.

I have it wired to certain circuits of my home. Nothing but tv’s electronics ect. I’ll put a photo on here of equiptment.

 

[the prodigal son]

Is this enough info. If not I can get more I really appreciate the help!! Thanks

 

[Craig]

I will do some research but I think both your inverter and SCC will take a signal from the Chargery without the use of relays.

 

[Craig]

Ok so I was completely wrong about the equipment not needing relays. I thought both of those units could handle external inputs.

For low voltage disconnect you would need at least a 100 Amp relay. We have been testing various SSR but they still have a few issues especially if you use the Magnasine for charging as well as inverting. If you are not too worried about power consumption you could use a 500 amp automotive relay that should work fine and cost less than 50 or 60 bucks. The relay would be Controlled by the Chargeries Discharge control wire.
It could be possible to hack the Magnasine's power switch with a Small SSR less than $20.00 that would turn the unit on and off but I have never seen a Magnasine in person so I don't know the steps needed to achieve the desired result.

It would also be possible to use an DC-AC SSR to cut off the AC out of the magnasine but the units idle draw could keep drawing down the battery. However if you use the Inverter for charging this would actually work best.


As for the SCC if you need over voltage protection I would place a relay between the panels and the SCC to cut off panels in an over voltage situation. This should have a lower amp load and would also leave the SCC connected to the batteries so there is no chance of damage to the unit by having panels connected and not the battery( this is a long ongoing theoretical problem, but no one can say if it is really a problem or not)

Im sure you now have even more questions which I would be happy to answer.

 

[the prodigal son]

Yes your right. Can I call you?

 

[the prodigal son]

I have found the chargery relays directly from China. This is what they have told me:
12V 100A relay is suggested,
the price is 28USD, two pcs is 56usd, one relay is for charge, another is for discharge. the freight is 20USD. total is 76usd
Are these relays good relays, is this a viable option? I’ve just really not done anything with this solar system in 9 years and I am very green.
Thanks
Stacy Hayes

 

[Pacer]

I have found the chargery relays directly from China. This is what they have told me:
12V 100A relay is suggested,
the price is 28USD, two pcs is 56usd, one relay is for charge, another is for discharge. the freight is 20USD. total is 76usd
Are these relays good relays, is this a viable option? I’ve just really not done anything with this solar system in 9 years and I am very green.
Thanks
Stacy Hayes

The general consensus is that the Chargery relays are crap-tastic and even potentially dangerous if they see anywhere their rated load.

Some of us picked up used TE 500a relays from eBay to use instead.

 

[the prodigal son]

Thanks

 

[Calvin]

The general consensus is that the Chargery relays are crap-tastic and even potentially dangerous if they see anywhere their rated load.

Some of us picked up used TE 500a relays from eBay to use instead.

Glad for the info I wanted to use those Chargery relays too but was a bit doubtful about them.

Is this the relay that you referenced-Tyco TE Connectivity Kilovac Relay EV200AAANA RELAY CONTACTOR SPST 500A 12-24V

 

[Pacer]

Glad for the info I wanted to use those Chargery relays too but was a bit doubtful about them.

Is this the relay that you referenced-Tyco TE Connectivity Kilovac Relay EV200AAANA RELAY CONTACTOR SPST 500A 12-24V

Yes, that’s correct!

 

[Calvin]

Yes, that’s correct!

Thanks Pacer. ??

 

[Steve_S]

I got fed up furtling around and resolved to use the following solution:
(nb: I am configured for Common Port - charge/discharge on the same DC Line.)

Bought 8 TE Connectivity Kilovac EV200AAANA Contactor 500A 12~24VDC contactors for all my packs (wiped out the vendors stock)
SPECS DOC LINK: https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...200_Ser_Contactors&DocType=CS&DocLang=English

Bought a batch of Keyes 2R1B 2-Channel Relay Modules for Arduino & Raspberry Pi - 12V (Opto Coupler)
(there are many brands of identical boards)
Product link: https://www.buyapi.ca/product/2-channel-relay-module-for-arduino-raspberry-pi-12v-keyes/

Will use the board to drive ONE relay for Charge/Discharge. These boards can handle 12VDC. If looking for such, ensure that it is the 12V version for 12V relays, by default these are offered as 5V so beware of the differences. (This solution came from a member in the SSR-Testing thread)



AN ALTERNATIVE to the TE Contactors:
I wanted to get some of these to test, I bought two incorrect ones (uni-directional / polarized) and waiting to get info there was also some miscommunication & delays which made me seek the alternative above. I would still go ahead and try these but I am out of experimenting time. ATTACHED is the DHV200 Energy Saver data sheet from Dongya - these are roughly $30 USD each plus S&H +Duties/Taxes.
Their Website: https://en.cndongya.com/high-voltage-dc-contactor/
Contact by EMail to get quote / PayPal invoice.

The DHV200AAANH is non-polarized, bi-directional, energy saver type:
V stands for non-polarized
200 stands for rated current 200A
The first A: main contact normally open (stud type)
The second A: coil voltage 9V-36V
The third A stands for coil wire length is 390mm
N stands for not with coil terminal connector
H stands for install method is Horizontal

 

[Viron]

Ok thanks. I need a relay and the BMS is a 100amp. What size relay do I need. They are asking me the maximum charge and discharge rate. Help. Lol

The Chargery uses two relays. One to control the solar charge controller circuit and one to control the load circuit which is typically your inverter.

The load relay is pretty much straight forward. Either use the peak current or battery fuse rating of the inverter. Go about 25%-30% over the maximum continuous battery of the inverter.

The relay for the charge controller is a little less straightforward. You should NEVER disconnect your battery from the charge controller while it is connected to the PV array. Doing so may fry your charge controller.

That means you should use the relay to disconnect the PV array from the charge controller, which will stop current flowing to the battery. A load diversion might be an option if switching the battery circuit.

The PV array is at a higher voltage than the battery. If the relay can handle the higher PV voltage is the question. Read the specs.

Personally, I'm looking at MODBUS to talk to my charge controller to turn off the charge controller and avoid relays all together.

I've already figured out that I can use the low current relay wire from the Chargery BMS to trigger my inverter's remoter switch terminal with 24V at 8 milliamps.

Once I figure out MODBUS programming of my charge controller and relay driver it will probably take less than 50 milliamps to power the turning on and off of the charge controller.

 

[Craig]

The Chargery uses two relays. One to control the solar charge controller circuit and one to control the load circuit which is typically your inverter.

The load relay is pretty much straight forward. Either use the peak current or battery fuse rating of the inverter. Go about 25%-30% over the maximum continuous battery of the inverter.

The relay for the charge controller is a little less straightforward. You should NEVER disconnect your battery from the charge controller while it is connected to the PV array. Doing so may fry your charge controller.

That means you should use the relay to disconnect the PV array from the charge controller, which will stop current flowing to the battery. A load diversion might be an option if switching the battery circuit.

The PV array is at a higher voltage than the battery. If the relay can handle the higher PV voltage is the question. Read the specs.

Personally, I'm looking at MODBUS to talk to my charge controller to turn off the charge controller and avoid relays all together.

I've already figured out that I can use the low current relay wire from the Chargery BMS to trigger my inverter's remoter switch terminal with 24V at 8 milliamps.

Once I figure out MODBUS programming of my charge controller and relay driver it will probably take less than 50 milliamps to power the turning on and off of the charge controller.

What is your SCC

 

[Viron]

I have a Morningstar PS-MPPT-40M and Samlex PST-3000W 24VDC pure signwave inverter. MODBUS is a fairly common communications protocol for the PV industry.