diy solar

diy solar

Chargery 16s BMS

I got fed up furtling around and resolved to use the following solution:
(nb: I am configured for Common Port - charge/discharge on the same DC Line.)

Bought 8 TE Connectivity Kilovac EV200AAANA Contactor 500A 12~24VDC contactors for all my packs (wiped out the vendors stock)
SPECS DOC LINK: https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...200_Ser_Contactors&DocType=CS&DocLang=English

Bought a batch of Keyes 2R1B 2-Channel Relay Modules for Arduino & Raspberry Pi - 12V (Opto Coupler)
(there are many brands of identical boards)
Product link: https://www.buyapi.ca/product/2-channel-relay-module-for-arduino-raspberry-pi-12v-keyes/

Will use the board to drive ONE relay for Charge/Discharge. These boards can handle 12VDC. If looking for such, ensure that it is the 12V version for 12V relays, by default these are offered as 5V so beware of the differences. (This solution came from a member in the SSR-Testing thread)


View attachment 13060

AN ALTERNATIVE to the TE Contactors:
I wanted to get some of these to test, I bought two incorrect ones (uni-directional / polarized) and waiting to get info there was also some miscommunication & delays which made me seek the alternative above. I would still go ahead and try these but I am out of experimenting time. ATTACHED is the DHV200 Energy Saver data sheet from Dongya - these are roughly $30 USD each plus S&H +Duties/Taxes.
Their Website: https://en.cndongya.com/high-voltage-dc-contactor/
Contact by EMail to get quote / PayPal invoice.

The DHV200AAANH is non-polarized, bi-directional, energy saver type:
V
stands for non-polarized
200 stands for rated current 200A
The first A: main contact normally open (stud type)
The second A: coil voltage 9V-36V
The third A stands for coil wire length is 390mm
N stands for not with coil terminal connector
H stands for install method is Horizontal
I got fed up furtling around and resolved to use the following solution:
(nb: I am configured for Common Port - charge/discharge on the same DC Line.)

Bought 8 TE Connectivity Kilovac EV200AAANA Contactor 500A 12~24VDC contactors for all my packs (wiped out the vendors stock)
SPECS DOC LINK: https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...200_Ser_Contactors&DocType=CS&DocLang=English

Bought a batch of Keyes 2R1B 2-Channel Relay Modules for Arduino & Raspberry Pi - 12V (Opto Coupler)
(there are many brands of identical boards)
Product link: https://www.buyapi.ca/product/2-channel-relay-module-for-arduino-raspberry-pi-12v-keyes/

Will use the board to drive ONE relay for Charge/Discharge. These boards can handle 12VDC. If looking for such, ensure that it is the 12V version for 12V relays, by default these are offered as 5V so beware of the differences. (This solution came from a member in the SSR-Testing thread)


View attachment 13060

AN ALTERNATIVE to the TE Contactors:
I wanted to get some of these to test, I bought two incorrect ones (uni-directional / polarized) and waiting to get info there was also some miscommunication & delays which made me seek the alternative above. I would still go ahead and try these but I am out of experimenting time. ATTACHED is the DHV200 Energy Saver data sheet from Dongya - these are roughly $30 USD each plus S&H +Duties/Taxes.
Their Website: https://en.cndongya.com/high-voltage-dc-contactor/
Contact by EMail to get quote / PayPal invoice.

The DHV200AAANH is non-polarized, bi-directional, energy saver type:
V
stands for non-polarized
200 stands for rated current 200A
The first A: main contact normally open (stud type)
The second A: coil voltage 9V-36V
The third A stands for coil wire length is 390mm
N stands for not with coil terminal connector
H stands for install method is Horizontal
Thank you Steve
 
Yes the samlex will work perfect the Morningstar might present a few issues but there will be a way.
Yes, the Samlex is tested. My next step is proving the Chargery BMS will trigger the Morningstar RD-1 relay drive which will talk to the PS-MPPT-40M to turn it off. I almost have the bits and pieces.
 
Are your batteries sitting on concrete? Is that still a thing?
Batteries are fine on concrete, unless it creates a temperature issue. Through the 1960s many lead acid batteries cases were coated with creosote which protected the case from acid spills, but tended to provide some conductivity to ground.

My batteries live inside.
 
The Chargery uses two relays. One to control the solar charge controller circuit and one to control the load circuit which is typically your inverter.

The load relay is pretty much straight forward. Either use the peak current or battery fuse rating of the inverter. Go about 25%-30% over the maximum continuous battery of the inverter.

The relay for the charge controller is a little less straightforward. You should NEVER disconnect your battery from the charge controller while it is connected to the PV array. Doing so may fry your charge controller.

That means you should use the relay to disconnect the PV array from the charge controller, which will stop current flowing to the battery. A load diversion might be an option if switching the battery circuit.

The PV array is at a higher voltage than the battery. If the relay can handle the higher PV voltage is the question. Read the specs.

Personally, I'm looking at MODBUS to talk to my charge controller to turn off the charge controller and avoid relays all together.

I've already figured out that I can use the low current relay wire from the Chargery BMS to trigger my inverter's remoter switch terminal with 24V at 8 milliamps.

Once I figure out MODBUS programming of my charge controller and relay driver it will probably take less than 50 milliamps to power the turning on and off of the charge controller.
I read that the reason to connect the battery before PV is actually just so the CC can properly sense the battery current and get setup, and that it won't fry your CC doing it the other way around. It's been my experience, at least with the Renogy CC, that connecting the panels first will not fry it. That said, maybe I just got lucky...
 
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