Cheap Chinese junk: I'll trow my 3 Daly controllers in the garbage bin. ANGRY!!!

Steve_S

Offgrid Cabineer, N.E. Ontario, Canada
In the worst case scenario, just tape off the tools like socket driver, screwdriver etc, even with Masking Tape if that's all you got and it'll be better than bare metal. Electricity will not go through Masking Take BUT this is not a permanent solution. No need to get all carried away for doing a few cells.
 

Supervstech

Administrator
Staff member
Moderator
I read that the reason the automotive world is moving to 48V and not higher because they thought that was the highest they could go and still be safe enough. Not safe, safe *enough*.
Actually, the automotive world abandoned the move to higher than 12v several years ago due to arc damage of devices.
12v devices have slow arc potential with most any device in the circuit... 24 and up tend to arc on each switching path, and it would be difficult and expensive to have warranties... they ended up using high amperage conductor paths, and branching out to support the additional electronic loads of modern vehicles.
 

TKB4

Solar Enthusiast
I was zipping along using a deep socket and staying away from everything until a bunch of wires tripped me up.
The socket got welded to my ratchet.
I need to use tools covered in rubber or plastic.
If it can be made to stick well try the liquid tape or maybe even Car undercoating spray.
 

Nakinto

Solar Enthusiast
I can tell you for a fact that anything over 30 volts is dangerous. Dispute with "internet experts" quotes at your own risk. My knowledge might date to the 1970s and earlier, but it hasn't changed.
I can confirm. I got a light shock from 24 volts, a slightly painful shock from 36v and OUCH from 48v. I forgot I had grounded my system to the frame of the motorhome and touched the frame with one hand while making the + connections on my batteries... next time, the - lead is the last one to be connected.
 

Supervstech

Administrator
Staff member
Moderator
I can confirm. I got a light shock from 24 volts, a slightly painful shock from 36v and OUCH from 48v. I forgot I had grounded my system to the frame of the motorhome and touched the frame with one hand while making the + connections on my batteries... next time, the - lead is the last one to be connected.
THIS!
as long as safety is followed, 48V is safe to use, but safe to touch? Safe to short out? So safe that precautions aren’t needed?
ridiculous!

ALL electrical circuitry needs to be treated with skill and respect.

ANYTHING above 24V needs precautions and procedure to work around. It can and will kill!
 

Cmat

New Member
Anyway, back on topic.

Daly BMS are pretty well featured on Wills YouTube channel. Is OP expecting too much from a cheap BMS or are there better options for the price point?

I found this thread after seeing YT, and signing up for more current information. About to pull the trigger on a few cells and a BMS
 

smoothJoey

SmooJo
Anyway, back on topic.

Daly BMS are pretty well featured on Wills YouTube channel. Is OP expecting too much from a cheap BMS or are there better options for the price point?

I found this thread after seeing YT, and signing up for more current information. About to pull the trigger on a few cells and a BMS
They may or may not be cheap but they are not inexpensive.
 

fhorst

making mistakes so you don't have to...
Cheap is totally relative.
What's cheap.
Are the components lower quality then Batrium?
Absolutely and at lower price.

Is the research time and quality insurance lower then Batrium?
Again, absolutely.

Is spending +$ 800,- to safeguard the + 5000 investment expensive or cheap?

Relative to your point of view.
Your demands.
And your safe or risky nature.

Do you need up time?
Do you need a product that the builders really stand by, and don't make a fuss about warranty?

And what's that worth to you.

Real life story:
I build a mining farm in 2017 with +200 1060 GPU, and chosen Corsair power supplies. 40 of them, in the range of 750 to 1000, mostly 850w.

Now that's all gone and sold, except 2 PSU and 7 cards.

One PSU had starting problems.
Sometimes it would start, sometimes not.

Flipflop thought Google me, the electronic part that does the puls turn on thing.

So I opened the unit I search. Lost quite a lot of screws and other parts and could not find it.

I reached out to Corsair support, to find out what chip or part it was and replace it myself.

How surprised I was to hear this is warranty.
I received a pre-paid shipment label (DHL) to send to Korea.
Courier came to pick the old unit from our home (30 minutes from the main road) and a week later a new courier (FedEx) came and deliver me a brand new RM1000X.

That was not my reason for choosing Corsair. The stability of the PSU, what is more important when you Overclock the videocards.

Even that those PSU where in the higher price range, they turned out cheapest solution due the excellent customer support.

Daly dumb BMS is totally epoxied.
Impossible to repair or replace any parts.

Request it back at customer expense, is simple customer punishment for asking support.
If you get your money back, or get replacement temporary working unit... It's punishment for asking.
They absolutely have no use for it, not even the heatsink can be removed.

Their tests show quickly when it's defective.
They know they can't replace parts.
And if it's simple re-programming?
They should make that available and not charge $75,- to get the option for replacing or refund.

Not much more to it.

Sadly Daly isn't the only BMS builder who makes a crappy product.
I have received and seen them go defective in way too short time for that price.
5 bucks even would be to much.
+ $100... A price range one should be able to receive quality.
It ain't rocket science.

My alternative, DIYBMS is not for everyone.
It requires soldering and flashing.
It does give you the freedom to adjust the PCB if you have better design idea for your needs, as well as the software.

Measuring cell voltage and turn something on or off at a set threshold isn't that complicated.

It's the amps that the "old" design needs in its system that makes it vulnerable.
Mosfet design works perfectly for smaller amperes.

It was never designed for +100A.
It got upscaled to +400A...
And fails, and fails and fails.

My Daly 250A worked fine for 10 weeks.
Up to the day it stopped, around lunch time, none of the cells at high level or low.
Just stopped.

Will makes great reviews, absolutely.
Endurance tests aren't part of it.

If I didn't hear so many people in my limited environment around Daly BMS fail, I probably would advise one.
But I do.
And see how Daly abuses their "third world" status for postages.
How their new "smart" had 4 major hardware changes in 9 months, with absolutely no good support to any of the old units that fail, or don't work as specified.

If they need 4 large changes, it was launched premature.
The first 3 shouldn't have been in the field as sold products.

That's cheap thinking...

Not the product.
That probably is matured by now, Not build by Daly, but painted red (black available under different names) and sold as.

What's cheap...

I still have a mighty good feeling about Corsair.
To bad they don't make BMS!!

Batrium isn't the only quality builder out there.
There are a few other options.

If you want to stay in the price range as Daly, $100-150, then DIYBMS is the only one I know that comes close to stability, scalability and reliability.
 

SolarKimmy

Solar Addict
I too am very unsatisfied with the Daly Smart BMS. I have six brand new units and for some Go!@##$$#@#@@@###$$$%%% Frigginng reason, none of them activate once my LifePO4 packs are charged. I have spent unreasonable hours trying to get these to turn on and activate via bluetooth or whatever. Just dead in the water. My packs are fully charged to 14.2V (4s 280ah EVE cells) and nothing. I short the P & B, nothing. Put them on a charge,.... Nothing cuz I think my batteries are fully charged. AAAAAAAERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGG... Smash! Break! Burn them!!!!
 

Batvette

Solar Enthusiast
Ask anyone in the utilities industries, worry about volts. Potential. Current is drawn by devices, voltage is what pushes it.
Do not become part of a circuit and you will be fine. That was mentioned but bears repeating.
In the navy as an avionics tech on F-4 phantoms one of our tasks regularly was tuning klystron magnetron power supplies for the radar. This had you using a brass screwdriver in the vicinity of an energized terminal with 28kvdc, yes 28,000 volts with IIRC around 10a current. Often done at night on the flight deck in rough seas, and you stood on the end of your aluminum tool box to see the pot screw and meter.
It was relatively safe for one protocol. Absolutely positively, one hand behind your back. If you slipped, no part of you becomes a circuit.
 
Last edited:

Just John

Photon Sorcerer
I too am very unsatisfied with the Daly Smart BMS. I have six brand new units and for some Go!@##$$#@#@@@###$$$%%% Frigginng reason, none of them activate once my LifePO4 packs are charged. I have spent unreasonable hours trying to get these to turn on and activate via bluetooth or whatever. Just dead in the water. My packs are fully charged to 14.2V (4s 280ah EVE cells) and nothing. I short the P & B, nothing. Put them on a charge,.... Nothing cuz I think my batteries are fully charged. AAAAAAAERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGG... Smash! Break! Burn them!!!!
I think you have now figured out how to activate them, if not please let me know and I will try to assist.

I understand the frustration, you want something that "just works". Unfortunately the closest BMS to that description is the Overkill BMS, and it has a much lower amp rating.
 

SolarKimmy

Solar Addict
I think you have now figured out how to activate them, if not please let me know and I will try to assist.

I understand the frustration, you want something that "just works". Unfortunately the closest BMS to that description is the Overkill BMS, and it has a much lower amp rating.
Yeah, thanks to another poster, I installed a switch on them. They work actually very well now.
 
Top