First, a link to the cheapest 30 volt, 10 amp supply I could find on Amazon. There are others on occasion that go on special for a dollar or two less, but this one is pretty consistently the cheapest I could find.
An alternative that is not as cheap, but since it has a fine voltage and amp adjustment, is easier to use (plus has a 4 digit display).
Opening them both up and checking the boards and components used, the first (cheapest) does not have 5 volt at 2 amp section for the USB charge port, otherwise they are very close to identical. Same parts in the same locations, same cutouts on the PCB for isolation, just no USB charging, and less digits on the display (also of course more touchy to set).
Lots of power supplies in this class all seem to be identical in design, for instance the Kaiweets reviewed here is identical internally to the second (more expensive) I listed above.
I will also inform you that the one Will Prowse recommends is identical internally as well (the Dr. meter here). Long Wei, Nice Power, Wanptek, and many others all appear to be manufactured with identical components, just different cases.
Anyway, recently there was a lot of discussion about the ability of these supplies to put out their full rated current and voltage without having them die. Certainly as a general rule, don't run Chinese power supplies at more than 80%. I can tell you, I've tested the top two linked above, and you can be sure they actually will put out 0-30 volts and 0-10 amps indefinitely. I used 10 gauge wire with nice crimp ring terminals to test, but even so, there is drop/loss due to the cable. First I set the power supply to the desired voltage using a meter (no load), then hooked up to my electronic load and told it to draw 10 amps current for the maximum time (it has a limit of 60,000 seconds for a timed test, that's 16 and 2/3 hours each test). I also placed a temperature probe on the exhaust fan outlet and monitored any temperature rise (you can see the exhaust temperature in the Riden display).
For 3.65 volts:
For 14.6 volts:
For 30 volts at 10 amps:
An alternative that is not as cheap, but since it has a fine voltage and amp adjustment, is easier to use (plus has a 4 digit display).
DC Power Supply Variable 30V 10A, 4-Digital LED Display, Precision Adjustable Switching Regulated Multifunctional Power Supply Digital with USB Interface, Disply with Output Power Lab Grade: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
DC Power Supply Variable 30V 10A, 4-Digital LED Display, Precision Adjustable Switching Regulated Multifunctional Power Supply Digital with USB Interface, Disply with Output Power Lab Grade: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
smile.amazon.com
Opening them both up and checking the boards and components used, the first (cheapest) does not have 5 volt at 2 amp section for the USB charge port, otherwise they are very close to identical. Same parts in the same locations, same cutouts on the PCB for isolation, just no USB charging, and less digits on the display (also of course more touchy to set).
Lots of power supplies in this class all seem to be identical in design, for instance the Kaiweets reviewed here is identical internally to the second (more expensive) I listed above.
I will also inform you that the one Will Prowse recommends is identical internally as well (the Dr. meter here). Long Wei, Nice Power, Wanptek, and many others all appear to be manufactured with identical components, just different cases.
Anyway, recently there was a lot of discussion about the ability of these supplies to put out their full rated current and voltage without having them die. Certainly as a general rule, don't run Chinese power supplies at more than 80%. I can tell you, I've tested the top two linked above, and you can be sure they actually will put out 0-30 volts and 0-10 amps indefinitely. I used 10 gauge wire with nice crimp ring terminals to test, but even so, there is drop/loss due to the cable. First I set the power supply to the desired voltage using a meter (no load), then hooked up to my electronic load and told it to draw 10 amps current for the maximum time (it has a limit of 60,000 seconds for a timed test, that's 16 and 2/3 hours each test). I also placed a temperature probe on the exhaust fan outlet and monitored any temperature rise (you can see the exhaust temperature in the Riden display).
For 3.65 volts:
For 14.6 volts:
For 30 volts at 10 amps: