Check out this compact buss bar

[smitty201]

See how you can use this here:

Fast forward to 7 minutes to get to his Victron power setup.

 

[Will Prowse]

That looks great

 

[Steve_S]

Good vid, Love the Black Lab what a happy pup ! okay, I'm a dog person.

The Blue Sea Cover

MaxiBus Insulating Cover for PN 2127 and 2128 - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

Lynx Power IN Distibutor w/o LEDs NB: Can't find it on eBay . Amazon, only the one with LED's (more $$)

Lynx Power In - Victron Energy

Connect batteries to the Lynx DC distribution system with the Lynx Power In, a modular DC busbar. Find a dealer nearby.

www.victronenergy.com

 

[smitty201]

Amazon.com: Victron Lynx Power-in [LYN020102000]: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Victron Lynx Power-in [LYN020102000]: Car Electronics

www.amazon.com

 

[svsagres]

Wouldn't this be a more elegant, safer solution?
Understand it's 3 vs 4 and not 1000a, but 300a is plenty for most.

Am I missing something?

https://www.amazon.com.au/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0753HBG6N/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=blade%2Bfuses%2Blittelfuse&qid=1653031314&refinements=p_n_prime_domestic%3A6845356051&rnid=6963563051&sr=8-41&th=1

Well, other than Necroing an ancient thread from 2 years ago, the MBRF unit isn’t a bus bar, it’s just a fuse holder that holds 3 fuses. It also doesn’t have a negative bus bar. The Victron Lynx Distributor (rather than power in) has dual bus bars for both polarities, as well as 4 MEGA fuse holders.

Here’s one in my setup:

 

[Odjono]

This is nice video thanks for posting makes safely distributing power easy and clean

 

[pantechlife]

2 yrs is 'ancient'? Wait, am I old now?

Sorry, I left some essential words/thinking out.

Initially I thought the 5194 was effectively 2 x seperate busbars, which it isn't, yet could the 5194 be easily modified into 2 x bus bars (assuming can disassemble and remove &/or cut the metal that joins the mounts on the 5194)?

&/or use just 2 x 5196 (even buying both of these is half the cost of the Power-in, and a 3rd of Lynx distributor - where I am).

1 of which (or 5196) would serve the same function as the Victron Power-in positive bar w' (better MRBF) fuses, and the other half of 5191 (diy copper bar or 5196) bar as the negative?

I understand this likely(?) wouldn't be ideal for higher loads, complex setups, but thinking it would be safe for lower, smaller setups <250a? (Given it's a 300a rated block)

Coz - hey a busbar is just some metal with bolts rated to not melt and stuff, right?
Maybe?

 

[Zil]

The advantage of MRBF is the interrupt capacity of the fuse. 10,000 amp at 14 volts. Also mega only rated to 32 volts. MRBF is good for those using 48 volts. This surface mount fuse block works as a positive BusBar. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5196/MRBF_Surface_Mount_Fuse_Block_-_Common_Source

 

[svsagres]

The advantage of MRBF is the interrupt capacity of the fuse. 10,000 amp at 14 volts. Also mega only rated to 32 volts. MRBF is good for those using 48 volts. This surface mount fuse block works as a positive BusBar. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5196/MRBF_Surface_Mount_Fuse_Block_-_Common_Source

As you can see in the picture I posted, my actual battery protection is handled by a Class T fuse. It's got 20kA intertuption capacity (useful in my 2p4s DIY battery).

 

[svsagres]

2 yrs is 'ancient'? Wait, am I old now?

Sorry, I left some essential words/thinking out.

Initially I thought this was effectively 2 x seperate busbars, which it isn't, but could this not be easily modified into 2 x bus bars (assuming can dissasemble and remove &/or cut joining metal between the rows)? &/or the BlueSea 5196 https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-5196-Block-Common/dp/B0753F35Q8?th=1 (even buying both of these is half the cost of the Power-in, and a 3rd of Lynx distributor).

1 of which (or 5196) would serve the same function as the Victron Power-in positive bar w' (better MRBF) fuses, and the other half of 5191 (diy copper bar or 5196) bar as the negative?

I understand this likely(?) wouldn't be ideal for higher loads, complex setups, but thinking it would be safe for lower, smaller setups <250a? (Given it's a 300a rated block)

Coz - hey a busbar is just some metal with bolts rated to not melt and stuff, right?
Maybe?

The Victron is two separate bus bars (see my photo above). The one to the right (in the photo) is my main negative bus bar, connecting to the battery, inverter/charger, solar, and alternator. To the left is the positive bus bar, which feeds off to the same high current stuff via the MEGA fuses. These fuses are not being used for battery protection, as they don't have the interrupt capability, but are being used for circuit protection.

 

[pantechlife]

The Victron is two separate bus bars (see my photo above). The one to the right (in the photo) is my main negative bus bar, connecting to the battery, inverter/charger, solar, and alternator. To the left is the positive bus bar, which feeds off to the same high current stuff via the MEGA fuses. These fuses are not being used for battery protection, as they don't have the interrupt capability, but are being used for circuit protection.

Yes, I totally understand that re: separate bus bars, I just find that it is still overpriced for what it is, and if not the Lynx distributor - doesn't make the fuses visible (with the hack to the Power-in).

I'd actually plan for the Power-In if factoring a larger system, but I don't think it's ideal for smaller, and still seems overpriced.

Thanks for clarifying re: your fuses.

Excuse me if I'm missing something (still a noob) - but why do you need "20kA interruption capacity"?

 

[pantechlife]

The advantage of MRBF is the interrupt capacity of the fuse. 10,000 amp at 14 volts. Also mega only rated to 32 volts. MRBF is good for those using 48 volts. This surface mount fuse block works as a positive BusBar. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5196/MRBF_Surface_Mount_Fuse_Block_-_Common_Source

Yes, 10,000a is partly why I'm suggesting it (and speed/efficacy of the current interrupt, based on research).

Are you saying the 5196 can't be a negative bus bar? If not, are you saying my thoughts above aren't viable?

 

[svsagres]

Yes, I totally understand that re: separate bus bars, I just find that it is still overpriced for what it is, and if not the Lynx distributor - doesn't make the fuses visible (with the hack to the Power-in).

I'd actually plan for the Power-In if factoring a larger system, but I don't think it's ideal for smaller, and still seems overpriced.

Thanks for clarifying re: your fuses.

Excuse me if I'm missing something (still a noob) - but why do you need "20kA intertuption capacity"?

Honestly, by the time I started pricing out all the other bits and pieces to do the distributor at an equal quality level, the distributer was cheaper and more compact (plus reliable).

Figure what you need is the following: 2x 1000A copper bus bars. Ok, 1000A is a bit overkill, 600A will do fine. 2x Blue Sea 600A bus bars are $122 each. Now, I need 4 MEGA fuse holders. Those are $28 each. Lastly, I need to build up 2/0 or better jumpers to interconnect the bus bars to fuse holders. Figure $25 in wire, and another $25 in lugs.

Now, I have a frankenstein with 8 crimps that costs more than the Lynx Distributor.

I went with the Lynx Distributor.

 

[pantechlife]

Honestly, by the time I started pricing out all the other bits and pieces to do the distributor at an equal quality level, the distributer was cheaper and more compact (plus reliable).

Figure what you need is the following: 2x 1000A copper bus bars. Ok, 1000A is a bit overkill, 600A will do fine. 2x Blue Sea 600A bus bars are $122 each. Now, I need 4 MEGA fuse holders. Those are $28 each. Lastly, I need to build up 2/0 or better jumpers to interconnect the bus bars to fuse holders. Figure $25 in wire, and another $25 in lugs.

Now, I have a frankenstein with 8 crimps that costs more than the Lynx Distributor.

I went with the Lynx Distributor.

The starting question was because my understanding is I don't need 4 x MEGA fuses, or fuse holders, coz the MRBF are better and built into the BlueSea 5194 *if it is possible/safe for it be modified* (not 5196).

That was my query - could we:
A. Use the 5194 as 2 x bus bars?
Failing that
B. Use 2 x 5196 as 2 x bus bars?

Where I live both option A or B are significantly cheaper, would have clearly visible fuses - in my setup and would work better for my layout.

EDIT: BlueSea 5194 or 5196 *do not include MRBF fuses* - certainly looks like they do, but they don't, so that increases their effective prices.

 

[John Frum]

I have 2 of these.

Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder | Waytek

Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder, 7 Stud Assembly with Bolts and Bus Bars, 400A is in stock and ready to ship. Order today!

www.waytekwire.com

Littelfuse says its rated for 400 amps.
Since the busbar is ~40mm2 I would rate it for 200 amps.
I use it with MRBF and zcase fuses.
Inexpensive alternative to Bluesea or Victron.

 

[pantechlife]

I have 2 of these.

Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder | Waytek

Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder, 7 Stud Assembly with Bolts and Bus Bars, 400A is in stock and ready to ship. Order today!

www.waytekwire.com

Littelfuse says its rated for 400 amps.
Since the busbar is ~40mm2 I would rate it for 200 amps.
I use it with MRBF and zcase fuses.
Inexpensive alternative to Bluesea or Victron.

Nice one, actually googled for littlefuse busbar, didn't come across this one.

Can you kindly show some pics of your setup with it?

 

[Zil]

Yes, 10,000a is partly why I'm suggesting it (and speed/efficacy of the current interrupt, based on research).

Are you saying the 5196 can't be a negative bus bar? If not, are you saying my thoughts above aren't viable?

Not what I said. The 5196 is a common source power to three MRBF fuses. Connected as designed it works as a three connection positive BusBar. There is no negative connections on this fuse holder. It is not in any way a negative BusBar. A negative BusBar does not need fuses.

As you can see in the picture I posted, my actual battery protection is handled by a Class T fuse. It's got 20kA intertuption capacity (useful in my 2p4s DIY battery).

I did not intend to criticize your stuff. I sorry if you took it that way. I only wanted to point out advantages of MRBF over MEGA or some other commonly used fuses. I do use Class-T as the catastrophic fuse on my LiFePo bank. I use MRBF on branch circuits over 100 amperes.

 

[pantechlife]

Not what I said. The 5196 is a common source power to three MRBF fuses. Connected as designed it works as a three connection positive BusBar. There is no negative connections on this fuse holder. It is not in any way a negative BusBar. A negative BusBar does not need fuses.

Ok, thanks, though I always understood what 5196 (4 mounts) is, maybe you missed that I was wondering if 5194 (6 mounts) can viably be *modified* (if you look closely at 5194, and at schematics it seems that the only reason it is 1 x bar, and not 2 seperate bars, is because both rows of bolts are joined by an angle of metal. If this angle was not joined (cut it or replace it) you would have 2 separate bus bars - whether this is a-very-bad-idea or not, I don't know). Note: the 5194/5196 both cost more than I thought coz *do not include* MRBF fuses.

I've edited posts above for clarity.

6 mounts seems like enough for many smaller setups, mine included (2 x 24v 370w panels to 12/24v MPPT to 2 x 12v 200AH batts, 3 kw inverter [that I inherited and likely doesn't hit 3kw, and batteries cant power 3kw anyway]).
And could be quite an elegant and tiny solution.

I'm totally open to being told this idea is not viable, or the MRBF not being suitable (short of being safer with a T-Fuse, my research says they are, but am a noob), hence me asking .

 

[pantechlife]

I have 2 of these.

Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder | Waytek

Littelfuse 0FHZ0007Z FHZ Series ZCASE Fuse Holder, 7 Stud Assembly with Bolts and Bus Bars, 400A is in stock and ready to ship. Order today!

www.waytekwire.com

Littelfuse says its rated for 400 amps.
Since the busbar is ~40mm2 I would rate it for 200 amps.
I use it with MRBF and zcase fuses.
Inexpensive alternative to Bluesea or Victron.

Seems impossible to get in Australia ??‍

 

[John Frum]

Ok, thanks, though I always understood what 5196 (4 mounts) is, maybe you missed that I was wondering if 5194 (6 mounts) can viably be *modified* (if you look closely at 5194, and at schematics the only reason it is 1 x bar, and not 2 x bars, is because both rows of bolts are joined by an angle of metal. If this angle was not joined you would have 2 separate bus bars - whether this is a-very-bad-idea or not, I don't know). Note: the 5194/5196 both cost more than I thought coz *do not include* MRBF fuses.

I've edited posts above for clarity.

6 mounts seems like enough for many smaller setups, mine included (2 x 24v 370w panels to 12/24v MPPT to 2x200AH batts, 3 kw inverter [that I inherited and likely doesn't hit 3kw, and batteries cant power 3kw anyway]).
And could be quite an elegant and tiny solution.

I'm totally open to being told this idea is not viable, or the MRBF not being suitable (short of being safer with a T-Fuse, my research says they are, but am a noob), hence me asking .

The busbar in your picture is not common source which is not useful for typical system typologies.
Maybe you are doing something different and I've misunderstood.

If your LFP battery is 24 volts or greater you want a class t fuse as close as possible to the positive terminal of the battery.
Class t fuses have the greatest breaking capacity.
That means they can quench an arc where lesser fuses will fail to extinguish the arc which is a nightmare scenario.