diy solar

diy solar

Cinergi's 28 kWh / 4 kW Solar / 10 kW inverter RV build

RIght now you’re my RV solar system hero. This is very close to my retrofit plans for my 38’ super C motor home. Removing the diesel Generator to install a dual zone mini split, 20kW LiFePo4 bank at 24v, dual victrons in split phase, remove roof ac’s, as much solar as I can cram up there.
 
Wonderful! Great job. Love the RV! Cant wait to see the final solar/battery install after its all "neated up". Its gonna look great, I'm sure.
 
I know I've been quiet. I'm so super busy with the RV pickup, working, traveling back home, etc ... but a brief update - the system is outperforming my wildest expectations. We've (we = my friend and I) had 0 sun for 3 days and I'm still at 25% battery. I don't have my generator with me so we're going to have to hit a campground and plug in to charge up because I won't be home for a few more days and I'm apparently following the clouds all the way home. But .. damn, 3 days! I'm generating 700-1000 watts of solar in overcast and drizzling conditions! I'm actually *charging* my battery right now while I'm working here in the rain at a Walmart. It's nuts. Much, much more to come ...
 
Pics of the trailer! I don't think I've seen it posted in the thread yet?

Woops! OK, here's some just before I moved in. Too lazy to take new ones right now haha but close enough!
 

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Nice! Our second check is in the mail on my 33’ NH. (Had to embiggen by a foot. Sigh) and my shipment of batteries should be leaving China soon— can’t wait to see how many watts of panels I can cram up top. Looks like about 3000W with the minsplits if I can shift the cassettes a bit.

what did you guys come up with for equipment ventilation?
 
Nice! Our second check is in the mail on my 33’ NH. (Had to embiggen by a foot. Sigh) and my shipment of batteries should be leaving China soon— can’t wait to see how many watts of panels I can cram up top. Looks like about 3000W with the minsplits if I can shift the cassettes a bit.

what did you guys come up with for equipment ventilation?

I'm watching the temperatures to see if I need to do something. Thus far the Inverters are keeping the basement warm (which is also heated). The batteries are currently at 54 degrees while it's 48 outside (cloudy). I'll be curious to see whether the basement gets hot in the Summer .. in which case I'll vent the basement (pulling air from the conditioned living space). I discussed that ahead of time with New Horizons and they gave me some ideas ... I'll post about that if it comes to it. (basically pull air from either the heat intake area in the stairs or from the cabinet below the TV - which is right next to the basement in my floor plan)

*make sure* your solar panel wiring configuration makes it on to the SIGNED order / change order because the factory (Angel) will wire it in their standard way which is probably not what you'll want (I had to have him change it).
 
Super cool build and love the YouTube vids.

How does the Progressive Dynamic converter that is shown in the pic of the battery bay fit into this equation? I didn't see it anywhere on your latest diagram.
 
Super cool build and love the YouTube vids.

How does the Progressive Dynamic converter that is shown in the pic of the battery bay fit into this equation? I didn't see it anywhere on your latest diagram.

That picture was taken before I swapped out their 12v system with mine. As of now, the converter (and the small Xantrex inverter) have been removed.
 
I'm watching the temperatures to see if I need to do something. Thus far the Inverters are keeping the basement warm (which is also heated). The batteries are currently at 54 degrees while it's 48 outside (cloudy). I'll be curious to see whether the basement gets hot in the Summer .. in which case I'll vent the basement (pulling air from the conditioned living space). I discussed that ahead of time with New Horizons and they gave me some ideas ... I'll post about that if it comes to it. (basically pull air from either the heat intake area in the stairs or from the cabinet below the TV - which is right next to the basement in my floor plan)

*make sure* your solar panel wiring configuration makes it on to the SIGNED order / change order because the factory (Angel) will wire it in their standard way which is probably not what you'll want (I had to have him change it).
Thanks!
 
Yeah not ideal .. but I tend not to gravitate towards those parks anyway ... and I'd only need to do it if my solar can't keep up (e.g. under trees). I'm gonna have at least 4 if not 4.7 kW on the roof so ... but I hear ya.. I've been trying like mad to design something that'll work for both and I've even enlisted Victron's help ... this is the best we can come up with :(
Why can’t you wire your distro panel like most RVs, for 50amp service? Then from your panel, wire a single 240v split phase outlet. When you connect to 30a service, don’t use a dogbone that jumpers the hot to a second leg. Leave that leg dead. If you do this, anything on the red line circuit will simply not have power (including your split phase outlet) when on thirty amp service. note i’m not an electrician, so this approach may need some ironing out.
 
Why can’t you wire your distro panel like most RVs, for 50amp service? Then from your panel, wire a single 240v split phase outlet. When you connect to 30a service, don’t use a dogbone that jumpers the hot to a second leg. Leave that leg dead. If you do this, anything on the red line circuit will simply not have power (including your split phase outlet) when on thirty amp service. note i’m not an electrician, so this approach may need some ironing out.

The final design proved that using 50 amp or 30 amp with dogbone both work perfectly! The Victron Quattro's figure out what to do and I always have 120/240 split phase inside the RV no matter what I'm connected to. It's magical!
(When connected to single phase 15/20/30 amp service, one Victron charges/passes-through while the other remains inverting).
 
Great build...I talked to the NH guys a couple of years ago at a show...super guys to deal with and I was pushing them for mini-split install and to migrate to Victron! I'm in Canada so this Covid thingy is preventing us from touring their factory. Can you show pictures of the DC switch with the pre-charger set up (What resistor did you end up with?). I'm designing a 2s8p 280ah battery for my 40' 5th wheel, and know that I need a pre-charger to go gentle on the equipment. For the Victron case grounding, did you daisy chain the CC and the 2 Quattros together before going to the neg bus bar?
 
Great build...I talked to the NH guys a couple of years ago at a show...super guys to deal with and I was pushing them for mini-split install and to migrate to Victron! I'm in Canada so this Covid thingy is preventing us from touring their factory. Can you show pictures of the DC switch with the pre-charger set up (What resistor did you end up with?). I'm designing a 2s8p 280ah battery for my 40' 5th wheel, and know that I need a pre-charger to go gentle on the equipment. For the Victron case grounding, did you daisy chain the CC and the 2 Quattros together before going to the neg bus bar?

Thanks!

They're not (yet) willing to migrate to Victron. They installed their own inverter which I ripped out after delivery and installed all my stuff. I tried to convince them to go Victron.

I just have a Blue Sea 2-battery switch so battery 1 is the resistor and battery 2 is the real battery. Check out my signature for the parts list.

Each item has its own wire to the common ground bar and that has its own connection to chassis; one connection to chassis and no ground loops. I didn't connect the Quattro chassis ground because the AC ground terminal of all inverter/chargers is connected to chassis (page 63 of Wiring Unlimited). Both DC negative busses (12 and 48) each have their own connection to the ground bus bar.
 
I do have a scope now and I swear I'll hook it up soon and start answering questions about the assumed AC ripple effect on the battery
 
Amazing build! First, I only read the first/last several pages, but can you share location in which you'll be running? Buddy and I are retrofitting a 40' he just acquired, and as a purveyor of ductless mini split tech, I'm curious how simple it might be to retrofit a unit for him. He's pulling >70kWh with resistance heat, so the efficiency benefits in both hot/cold environments are quite lucrative. Thanks!

Edit: Also, why such a large condenser, efficiency gains and/or ability to add a 3rd zone at some point?
 
Amazing build! First, I only read the first/last several pages, but can you share location in which you'll be running? Buddy and I are retrofitting a 40' he just acquired, and as a purveyor of ductless mini split tech, I'm curious how simple it might be to retrofit a unit for him. He's pulling >70kWh with resistance heat, so the efficiency benefits in both hot/cold environments are quite lucrative. Thanks!

Edit: Also, why such a large condenser, efficiency gains and/or ability to add a 3rd zone at some point?

Thanks!

I'm in CT at the moment (and that's where all the numbers I've been posting were). Given the limits space for panels, going with mini-split really is a must if you're going to run the AC. You can always use propane for heat but the mini-split helps. I'll be all over the US but never in 100-degree heat. Even 90 should be rare if I'm doing it right.

The indoor units are supposed to be sized between 40% and 133% of your outdoor unit. I have 9+9 = 18k indoor or 60% of 30k outdoor so that's in spec. I think my living room needs an 11k unit, though (insulation isn't nearly as good as a home). It's what LG-licensed installers recommended for the RV so that's what the RV manufacturer had installed. I don't know where the sweet spot between 40% and 133% would be - so that's a great question.
 
Yes! Running the napkin math, HP mini splits will use 60-80% less energy than either propane or straight resistance heat, and about half the cooling energy of those $hit standard RV rooftop units... a no-brainer if you’re using the RV for more than a month or two out of each year, or want to go off-grid in non-mild climate zones.
That said, mini split condensing units are already so big to begin with (larger HX surface area = better EER/SEER) I’d really wondered where they fit the condensers, especially an oversized one. Would love some detailed pics of indoor/outdoor components when you have a minute. Your early data speaks for itself tho. Would love to see those consumption graphs paired with OA temp and irradiance... that’d be a KPI-lover’s dream!

Thanks again!!
 
Yes! Running the napkin math, HP mini splits will use 60-80% less energy than either propane or straight resistance heat, and about half the cooling energy of those $hit standard RV rooftop units... a no-brainer if you’re using the RV for more than a month or two out of each year, or want to go off-grid in non-mild climate zones.
That said, mini split condensing units are already so big to begin with (larger HX surface area = better EER/SEER) I’d really wondered where they fit the condensers, especially an oversized one. Would love some detailed pics of indoor/outdoor components when you have a minute. Your early data speaks for itself tho. Would love to see those consumption graphs paired with OA temp and irradiance... that’d be a KPI-lover’s dream!

Thanks again!!

The indoor units are the ceiling cassettes - possibly easier to figure out where to put them vs. wall units especially if you have slides. The ODU is in the basement, all boxed in. You can see the basement and the box it's in here:
(under the red box in the back). I'm not sure I have pics of the ceiling units but they're flush with the ceiling.. 24"x24" protrusion through the roof.
 
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