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Circuit Breaker Orientation question

MrFrog

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I am placing this circuit breaker on the positive line between the SCC and battery would the SCC be the Batt Line and the Battery be the Aux Load? So the line from the SCC would connect to the Batt Line terminal and the line from the AUX Load terminal would go to the battery or in my case the 250 amp AUX load terminal on the breaker connected to the battery?
 
In this picture I can tell which terminal is which or does it matter?
 

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Thank you I was confounded by the orientation I thought it would need to be upside down.
 
Most circuit breakers heat up because of too much current and deform a piece of metal that makes the breaker trip so flow direction doesn't matter. Good Luck.
 
If the breaker says batt and aux or line and load it can matter.
But those breakers look like cheap amazon specials so I would think long and hard about replacing them with something better.
What makes those cheap breakers different, and how would it matter do the cheap breakers function differently. Do they not heat and deform and trip like all breakers of this type?
 
If the breaker says batt and aux or line and load it can matter.
But those breakers look like cheap amazon specials so I would think long and hard about replacing them with something better.
Can you name a brand or brands of higher quality?
 
Bussman or blue sea are much higher quality breakers. I went thru 3 defective unsafe cheap EBay wastes of money before I learned.
⚡⚡️?⚡⚡
Also as @ smoothJoey said orientation does matter that’s why they are marked that way.
 
If you are lucky they nuisance trip far below their rating.
If you are un-lucky they weld shut and you don't know why your house burned down.
I have a T Tocas 50A and a T Tocas 250A in my system are these considered cheap and possibly dangerous?
 
I have a T Tocas 50A and a T Tocas 250A in my system are these considered cheap and possibly dangerous?
Would this brand be more reliable and safe;

Mechanical Products 174-S2-250-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 3/8" Stud, 250A​

as a bonus it's made in USA
 
Would this brand be more reliable and safe;

Mechanical Products 174-S2-250-2 Surface Mount Circuit Breaker, Manual Reset, 3/8" Stud, 250A​

as a bonus it's made in USA
I'm testing one right now.
I don't know yet.
If you are exceeding 200 amps I suggest you get a quality fuse.
 
I prefer fuses. If a switch is needed, a fuse and a switch is much better than CB.
 
While what needs to be said has been said, I just want to add:

Using cheap safety gear is asking for trouble. Do you want a cheap climbing harness? A cheap seat belt? A crappy fire extinguisher? With any luck you will never need that breaker but if you do it has to work. It isn't just a switch to turn off the system. As an ex-firefighter I can tell you that a lot of fires are electrical in origin. You wanna play Russian Roulette? Build a system properly and don't cut corners or be prepared to break out the marshmallows while you watch it burn.
 
What makes those cheap breakers different, and how would it matter do the cheap breakers function differently. Do they not heat and deform and trip like all breakers of this type?
Heat-deform-trip is thermal. That is used for moderate overloads, for instance 30A though a 20A breaker, which make take 10 minutes or so to trip. I've tested AC breakers that way with a couple space heaters.

When it trips, it pulls contacts apart. In the case of AC, any small arc is extinguished in 1/120th of a second or less when current flow drops to zero before reversing. If AC breaker used for DC, the distance between contacts may not be enough to stop the arc.

Most breakers also have a fast magnetic trip, activated around 5x rated current, e.g. 100A through a 20A breaker. I've also been testing those with my home-brew circuit breaker tester (current transformer and space heaters). Eventually I expect to be able to apply 375A continuous, 1kA to 1.2kA instantaneous, sufficient to test 200A main breakers.

Those are just overloads. What about a dead short? My AC main breaker is designed to successfully interrupt up to 22,000A (once), and the branch circuit breakers up to 10,000A. That is supposed to be sufficient for utility transformers in residential neighborhoods (winding resistance limits current.) In an industrial neighborhood, as much as 100,000A could be delivered to a short, and these circuit breakers would explode. A fuse with 100kA or 200kA would be needed. (I'm probably not going to build a tester for any of those currents; I'm just doing non-destructive tests.)

For DC applications, a battery bank can deliver several thousand amps. An automotive starting battery about 2000 or 3000A. My 400 Ah bank about 16,000A. While AC current can generally be interrupted in 120th of a second (with destruction of the breaker for high currents), DC can just keep on flowing. There are several ways to make a breaker function or DC, and one would be a magnetic field that causes the plasma to be pulled away from the contacts. So polarity would matter. Possibly, just the magnetic trip function also uses polarity in some DC breakers.



Midnight Solar has breakers with specified polarity. But what matters is the polarity of high fault currents rather than normal operating currents; the fault could be a backfeed from battery into charge controller.

https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/17866/midnite-breaker-polarity

There is a lot of technology and engineering that goes into these things.
 
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