Easy when it's shown at the bottom of the case in the pictureBonus points if ya guess the movie title.
I have that one.I just ordered a new class t fuse and holder.
It arrived today, and I am impressed at the size of this kit.
I took a picture with it on a DVD case for reference.
Bonus points if ya guess the movie title.View attachment 68848
3/8" drill and doneall Class T fuse holders need 3/8" lugs so I can't just swap it out.
I tried that once. Nearly broke my hand. Ruined the 1/0 cable the lug was attached to. The drill bit grabbed into the existing 5/16" hole and tried to spin the whole thing. Admittedly it was my fault. I was just holding onto the cable close to the lug I trying to drill while holding it down on a scrap piece of wood thinking the bit would make easy work of the copper lug. Dumb. If I had taken the extra 30 seconds to clamp it properly I would have saved 30 minutes making a new cable and avoided a few days of soreness.3/8" drill and done
I find drilling a hole through a piece plywood first then sandwiching what you are drilling between that piece of plywood and another piece of wood works better for me. But, you are absolutely right, that does work, I just find it tends to leave a big bur on the underside.You'd be surprised --in soft metal like a Lug -- going from 5/16" to 3/8" --drill in reverse --- it won't try to just thread through the hole
I have three of the 400A FB style holders. Just out of curiosity, why did you go with the CFB style? Do you wrap copper shim stock around the wire to keep the set screw from chewing up the wire? I am just asking because I have never had really good success with that style of connection in the welding environment so I am wondering If I am missing something.I just ordered a new class t fuse and holder.
It arrived today, and I am impressed at the size of this kit.
I took a picture with it on a DVD case for reference.
Bonus points if ya guess the movie title.View attachment 68848
Try using ferrules...I have three of the 400A FB style holders. Just out of curiosity, why did you go with the CFB style? Do you wrap copper shim stock around the wire to keep the set screw from chewing up the wire? I am just asking because I have never had really good success with that style of connection in the welding environment so I am wondering If I am missing something.
is there any difference in current carrying capacity of the connection? I ask because, again, in the welding environment the crimped connections always lasted better than the screwed connection. Admittedly we were maxing out the cables running subarcs down 80' beams using 600+ amps but the crimped connections always lasted longer. The screw connections always ended up in buckets of water. We were not using ferrules but we were wrapping copper shim stock around the cable which should preform similarly, or no?Try using ferrules...
Mine just arrived. Same brand and rating but has studs for lugs. I was surprised how hefty the whole thing is.I just ordered a new class t fuse and holder.
It arrived today, and I am impressed at the size of this kit.
I took a picture with it on a DVD case for reference.
Bonus points if ya guess the movie title.View attachment 68848
Fuses are not directional.Mine just arrived. Same brand and rating but has studs for lugs. I was surprised how hefty the whole thing is.
My question - does it matter how it's wired in. is it directional? Does it matter which end the battery and inverter cables are connected to?
I would assume since there are no markings/arrows it doesn't matter, but it's always best to check.