I have both types ( all blue seas) they are the same basic physical size in outside dimensions but the 225a and up have larger studs mounted slightly farther apart than the 200 and down units…so they are not interchangeableWhat is the physical difference between the small (up to 200A) and large (>200A) class T fuse blocks? I get the impression that I cannot mount a 125A fuse in the large fuse block.
Thank you. I kind of figured that was the case.
I found and purchased the LET (European?) style. I ordered Eaton-Bussmann fuses to replace the unknown quality fuses that came with the mounts. I'll save the unknowns for emergency spares I guess. (they are 150a when I need 125a anyway) Spec sheets seem to line up fairly well, just the mounting format different.
Victron Lynx Class-T Power in
I'm not expecting my fuse to survive a bomb.Yeah, that is great, except in their infinite wisdom they didn't make the Lynx T explosion proof/ignition protected.
I got 3 ignition protected class T fuse holders in use now. Yes, Its all because of you.See, two things decided me on the ignition protected holders.
First, the ability to get the cover off without risking breaking it.
Second, I read the house burned down thread and I am convinced the ignition source want the Mega fuse for the battery with the shorted cell exploding into a shower of sparks from the huge overcurrent after there was a vent and filling the room with hydrogen.
Hopefully the class T holds in the arc, but I wouldn't bet on it. And while expensive, if they are properly sized they will never blow unless there is really a problem.
On the 225 up blue seas fuse holder , I had to file the capture clamps down a bit too or it would take Rambo to squeeze hard enough to open them…People have dead shorted T class and besides the pop noise the fuse had remained fully intact.
I slightly modified my Blue Sea holders to not crack when removing the covers. Bad design IMO but wasn't hard to remedy.
Ignition protection is required in engine bays in boats with gasoline engines. It is meant to prevent igniting gas vapours, it serves no other purpose. Alternators and ignition systems have the same protections. It is not required in diesel engine bays.
Sound advice me thinks!Just my opinion…so I will be brief …as I get in trouble for my opinions somewhat often..
.
whenever you see a product talking about car stereo in your specs , ya really need to study why your buying it if it’s going in a good strong system…
There are cases here, where cheap fuse blocks of an unknown makers fails and can really cause a mess for the RV, Boat or homeowner…
A fuse is your last line of defense …it’s what clears faults , stops fires( and other stuff) before they hurt you and more stuff …
Buy the best fuse and holder you can ..
I just bought 2 more Blue seas holders this week for some 125 fuses…they are great…they were 59 dollars each..that not bad …
Saving a few bucks I will try to do on some stuff but not a fuse assembly…or switch or wire…
I mean this in a good spirit ..good luck.
Jim.
excellent info.I know this thread is a couple months old but just came across it, looking for the same answer.
Perhaps someone else will find this helpful
Apparently, T type fuse dimensions (well, stud spacing anyway) are as follows:
70-100a, 1.562"
110-200a, 1.687"
225-400a, 1.843
450-600a, 2.031"
700-800a, 2.218"
900-122a, 2.531"