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Class T fuse holders?

T-Rex

New Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2023
Messages
55
Location
SE Texas
What is the physical difference between the small (up to 200A) and large (>200A) class T fuse blocks? I get the impression that I cannot mount a 125A fuse in the large fuse block.
 
225A and up is a larger fuse holder. The smaller fuse holder is typically rated up to 200A - the larger around 400-500A and sized to fit the larger wire required for this ampacity.
 
What is the physical difference between the small (up to 200A) and large (>200A) class T fuse blocks? I get the impression that I cannot mount a 125A fuse in the large fuse block.
I have both types ( all blue seas) they are the same basic physical size in outside dimensions but the 225a and up have larger studs mounted slightly farther apart than the 200 and down units…so they are not interchangeable
The covers slightly differ but the base plates are the same on mine…
I have from 110 to 300a…
 
Thank you. I kind of figured that was the case.
I found and purchased the LET (European?) style. I ordered Eaton-Bussmann fuses to replace the unknown quality fuses that came with the mounts. I'll save the unknowns for emergency spares I guess. (they are 150a when I need 125a anyway) Spec sheets seem to line up fairly well, just the mounting format different.


Just my opinion…so I will be brief …as I get in trouble for my opinions somewhat often..
.
whenever you see a product talking about car stereo in your specs , ya really need to study why your buying it if it’s going in a good strong system…
There are cases here, where cheap fuse blocks of an unknown makers fails and can really cause a mess for the RV, Boat or homeowner…

A fuse is your last line of defense …it’s what clears faults , stops fires( and other stuff) before they hurt you and more stuff …

Buy the best fuse and holder you can ..

I just bought 2 more Blue seas holders this week for some 125 fuses…they are great…they were 59 dollars each..that not bad …

Saving a few bucks I will try to do on some stuff but not a fuse assembly…or switch or wire…

I mean this in a good spirit ..good luck.

Jim.
 
Yeah, that is great, except in their infinite wisdom they didn't make the Lynx T explosion proof/ignition protected.
I'm not expecting my fuse to survive a bomb.
Or for a class T to blow up a gas line.
 
No less expensive than 2 Blue Sea Class T holders, so I don't understand how it helps. Looks nice though.
I have fuses and holders, I should have just kept my mouth shut.
I still haven't accepted that solar is a rich man's toy that I should have stayed away from, but I'm getting there. The only thing that keeps me moving forward is the ridiculous loss I would take by giving up and trying to sell what I have bought (assuming I could even manage to sell the chineseium crap that I have wasted multiple thousands on)
 
See, two things decided me on the ignition protected holders.

First, the ability to get the cover off without risking breaking it. The type you linked I've broken the cover of a similar fuse mount getting it off.

Second, I read the house burned down thread and I am convinced the ignition source want the Mega fuse for the battery with the shorted cell exploding into a shower of sparks from the huge overcurrent after there was a vent and filling the room with hydrogen. And in that case the holder was flame resistant but didn't say it wouldn't deform from heat and loose the lid.

Hopefully the class T holds in the arc, but I wouldn't bet on it. And while expensive, if they are properly sized they will never blow unless there is really a problem.
 
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People have dead shorted T class and besides the pop noise the fuse had remained fully intact.

I slightly modified my Blue Sea holders to not crack when removing the covers. Bad design IMO but wasn't hard to remedy.
 
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See, two things decided me on the ignition protected holders.

First, the ability to get the cover off without risking breaking it.

Second, I read the house burned down thread and I am convinced the ignition source want the Mega fuse for the battery with the shorted cell exploding into a shower of sparks from the huge overcurrent after there was a vent and filling the room with hydrogen.

Hopefully the class T holds in the arc, but I wouldn't bet on it. And while expensive, if they are properly sized they will never blow unless there is really a problem.
I got 3 ignition protected class T fuse holders in use now. Yes, Its all because of you. :)
They sure are beautiful and made well.
I replaced an ANL fuse that was scorned in that "house burned down) thread. And then you convinced me to buy more!
 
Ignition protection is required in engine bays in boats with gasoline engines. It is meant to prevent igniting gas vapours, it serves no other purpose. Alternators and ignition systems have the same protections. It is not required in diesel engine bays.
 
People have dead shorted T class and besides the pop noise the fuse had remained fully intact.

I slightly modified my Blue Sea holders to not crack when removing the covers. Bad design IMO but wasn't hard to remedy.
On the 225 up blue seas fuse holder , I had to file the capture clamps down a bit too or it would take Rambo to squeeze hard enough to open them…
after filing carefully now they work great… the fuse Blocks for 200a and down have the yellow folding clamps and need no modifying…Its a whole lot better holder .. but I have both..

As they are are rated for 125 to 160volts ,I use them for things other than fuse holders like in buss bars coming from arrays or whatever…with a superb cover….

59 bucks or less and perfection..👍
 
Deleted- a rant about a fused 1000A bus that won't fit full size class T fuses - 2x 400A
Wrong size
Nevermind
 
Last edited:
Ignition protection is required in engine bays in boats with gasoline engines. It is meant to prevent igniting gas vapours, it serves no other purpose. Alternators and ignition systems have the same protections. It is not required in diesel engine bays.


One of our members contacted blue sea about the testing they do on the ignition protected holders - They put it in an explosive gas atmosphere and then set a spark inside the area where the fuse actually it to prove that the fuse blowing will not allow a spark to escape to start a fire. If there is something that will burn inside the fuse portion of the holder it will not escape.

In the mentioned example - a single cell of a 16s battery venting releases enough hydrogen to fill a 20ft cargo container in about 30 seconds. The house burned down example had enough remote logs to indicate that the delay was 20 minutes from the inital spike in current until all reporting stopped.

IMO a different type fuse than the victron recommended Mega and ignition protected holders would have broken the chain of events that caused the fire... NOTE - the Mega fuses were in non-Victron Lynx holders, but it was the common practice at the time of the build to use Mega fuses for battery builds. Had they been inside the Lynx enclosure I believe the result would have been the same

The other problem was the shunt-trip was on the total output of the 7 parallel banks of batteries where there should have been one on each bank. This was according to the Batrium install instructions at the time.

All a chain of problems that caused the fire, but they were all correct as of the time of the build.

The install was 4+ years old without trouble and suddenly had an issue
 
Just my opinion…so I will be brief …as I get in trouble for my opinions somewhat often..
.
whenever you see a product talking about car stereo in your specs , ya really need to study why your buying it if it’s going in a good strong system…
There are cases here, where cheap fuse blocks of an unknown makers fails and can really cause a mess for the RV, Boat or homeowner…

A fuse is your last line of defense …it’s what clears faults , stops fires( and other stuff) before they hurt you and more stuff …

Buy the best fuse and holder you can ..

I just bought 2 more Blue seas holders this week for some 125 fuses…they are great…they were 59 dollars each..that not bad …

Saving a few bucks I will try to do on some stuff but not a fuse assembly…or switch or wire…

I mean this in a good spirit ..good luck.

Jim.
Sound advice me thinks!
 
I know this thread is a couple months old but just came across it, looking for the same answer.
Perhaps someone else will find this helpful
Apparently, T type fuse dimensions (well, stud spacing anyway) are as follows:
70-100a, 1.562"
110-200a, 1.687"
225-400a, 1.843
450-600a, 2.031"
700-800a, 2.218"
900-122a, 2.531"
 
I know this thread is a couple months old but just came across it, looking for the same answer.
Perhaps someone else will find this helpful
Apparently, T type fuse dimensions (well, stud spacing anyway) are as follows:
70-100a, 1.562"
110-200a, 1.687"
225-400a, 1.843
450-600a, 2.031"
700-800a, 2.218"
900-122a, 2.531"
excellent info.
 
So I have seen other post where there is a T-Class fuse and holder but it can't take a surge current of 600A (6 rack) at 48V.

What holder and fuse can take the instant surge current rating of 600A at 56.2V (max) for a single pair of wires that feed the inverter off the rack? You want to fuse it at the source before the wires transfer it off the buss bars.
 
the fuse holders I use are made by bussman/eaton my t classes are all 80 amp fuses one for each bank. the most I have drawn to date with one inverter was about 43 amps. since I installed the second inverter I have seen 52 amps, but both amps were running under full output. (maybe 2/3rds?)

as my house and shop running flat out do not draw but 52 amps any one of the fuses/banks could power my system i chose to go with the smaller class t fuses on each bank. the holders that bussman/eaton make are a composite that reminds me a lot of Bakelite without the brittleness. blue sea only offered the massive fuses and I want that fuse to blow if there are any problems. fuses are cheaper than the cabling, cheaper than the inverters, cheaper than my shop.... and yes I have a 5 pack of spares just in case.

to give you an idea, I blew two of the fuses when I applied power to my system without a resistor to pre-charge the system. that was three morningstar SCC's and two Magnum MS-PAE 4448 inverters and the inrush popped two of them. learned my lesson....again.
 

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