diy solar

diy solar

Class t fuse without holder

I'd hang it with a zip tie. I don't even have one of those fuses anyways. I'm cheap.
 
SniperX said:
6:39 minute mark- I pushed away from the computer, lol. All he needed was some gasoline in that wood box!
Click to expand...

That was my main concern, but it didn't flame up. I wonder if a class T would get hotter?

Maybe encase the whole works in a cement board box? Put that box in a wood box ?
 
First mistake (after the naturally fabricated composite structural material) was running current through steel nuts. Should have had ring terminal in contact with fuse, if a 2-stud not 4-stud fuse holder. (At 4:56 he commented on having correcting that.)

Blowing a fuse with overload is less dramatic than interrupting short-circuit fault current.
Don't think that fuse has anything to help extinguish arc.

A metal box to contain any fireball would be good. Vents or other cooling could help avoid nuisance blowing on a hot day. (competing goals.)

Other type fuses are dual element, blow faster with extreme overload and hold longer with sort-term modest overload.
 
Hedges said:
A metal box to contain any fireball would be good. Vents or other cooling could help avoid nuisance blowing on a hot day. (competing goals.)
Click to expand...

Perhaps a seriously good diy would be cement board layers with lugs in a metal box.

Hedges said:
Other type fuses are dual element, blow faster with extreme overload and hold longer with sort-term modest overload.
Click to expand...

cost?
 
I have all 10 of my 16S 280aH batteries with 125A JJN Class T fuses, mounted using two standard bus bars with ss hardware, between cell 8+ and Cell 9-. Wrapped in Polyamide tape. Typ max current= 37A. I've test blown one fuse. A little pop. That's it. Now you have two 24V batteries. Turn 100A breaker off, determine cause of blown fuse and fix, replace fuse, ensure pack voltage is close to bus voltage, turn breaker back on. If no fuse is on-hand, in an emergency, I will temporarily install my short 2ga cable with lugs that I originally used in that position before learning about Class T's.

I used the Blue Seas $75-$125 fuse holders in my mobile application.
 
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If you can afford a 48V battery, you can afford a $44 fuse. :)

Used, $12 + shipping?

www.ebay.com

BUSS T-TRON JJN-100 CLASS T FUSE 100AMP, 300V, HRCI-T *ji2a | eBay

YOU ARE PURCHASING A BUSS T-TRON JJN-100 CLASS T FUSE 100AMP, 300V, HRCI-T ji2a. Class Class T Fuse. We solve all problems fast and fair. YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED. WE HAVE A QTY OF 20 OF THESE FUSES.
www.ebay.com

Otherwise ...

MRBF is 58V for $18. But only 2000 AIC

MRBF Terminal Fuse - 200A - Blue Sea Systems

Space-saving ignition protected fuse for 30 to 300 Amp loads. Must use with Terminal Fuse Block.
www.bluesea.com www.bluesea.com
 
Hedges said:
If you can afford a 48V battery, you can afford a $44 fuse. :)
Click to expand...
True, the fuse is a given. The strange part is the $4x dollar block of plastic that holds the fuse. It's just plastic with 2 nuts in it? That's the part I'm questioning DIYing.
Hedges said:
MRBF is 58V for $18. But only 2000 AIC

MRBF Terminal Fuse - 200A - Blue Sea Systems

Space-saving ignition protected fuse for 30 to 300 Amp loads. Must use with Terminal Fuse Block.
www.bluesea.com www.bluesea.com
Click to expand...
yes, that's were the class T fuse comes in and again, the holder.
 
When I designed My system, the initial cost was $18,000. After following all the advise from all the safety guys. My system would have cost $32,000.
Being safe is of concern of most everybody. But, you have to listen, reason, then act in your best understanding of the people you can put merit in. Not an easy task.
Good luck.
 
RV10flyer said:
I have all 10 of my 16S 280aH batteries with 125A JJN Class T fuses, mounted using two standard bus bars with ss hardware, between cell 8+ and Cell 9-. Wrapped in Polyamide tape. Typ max current= 37A. I've test blown one fuse. A little pop. That's it. Now you have two 24V batteries.
Click to expand...
I appreciate some of the benefits that gives you, but why did you choose that approach? Are you concerned about ground faults?

I thought there was a reason that approach isn't encouraged, but I can't think of why. I know mid-string disconnects are common, but fusing is a little different.
 
Shimmy said:
I appreciate some of the benefits that gives you, but why did you choose that approach? Are you concerned about ground faults?

I thought there was a reason that approach isn't encouraged, but I can't think of why. I know mid-string disconnects are common, but fusing is a little different.
Click to expand...

It's not practical for a oem battery.


RV10flyer said:
Typ max current= 37A.
Click to expand...

Thank you, wonderful diy.

Does the sentence above have a typo?
 
Bluedog225 said:
Best strategy as far as I can tell, in these times of shortage, it to buy the holder and fuse together, and several spares to fit the holder. All at once. T fuses of a particular size are a pain to find these days.
Click to expand...

If he has them in stock, I have used Don Rowe, but I recommend asking first.

Class T Fuse Kits & Fuses | DonRowe.com

Fast-acting Class T fuse kits and fuses provide over-current protection for your batteries and cables, while helping to ensure safe inverter operation.
www.donrowe.com

Yes, holders plus spares, don't cheap out on fuses or breakers.
 
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