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Classic Norwegian going electric - Polar 22

hello

also located in norway and planning a simular project.
regarding the N50 engine. do you need separate thrust bearing?
Yeah, I will need a separate thrust bearing. Fimea recommended Aquadrive as they had made couplers to it before, so they're checking price/availabiliy. With a torque of 130nm @ 10kW, this thing moves.
no need for 2:1 exchange on engine to axle?

I'm no engine-whiz, why the need for 2:1 exchange on an electrical engine to axle?

i would dropped solar panels on the polar, just go for a decent (shore) charger.

Well, since I'm building this from the hull and up, I might as well develop the electrical system so that I can add an mppt and solar panels easily. Would be nice to actually see how much I'm able to charge with solars.

10kw motor and 14 kwt batterypack is almost overkill in this small boat, but definetly fun!
the small polars consumes roughly about 1kwh in 4 knots, and 2kwh in 5(and so on)

Really? I did not know the power consumption @ 4 knots. I know the engine is a bit overkill, however the cost is a lot cheaper than a 4kw engine from Waterworld, E-tech, Vetus, Green Marine etc. I might not need the extra umpfh, but it certainly doesn't hurt.

dc-dc to 12 system, or separate battery with small panel and/or small separate 12v charger.
I'm currently looking at having a separate 12v battery pack (12v @ 280Ah) with Dc-dc from the 48v with a charge limit. A bit cleaner to separate the two systems and definitely gives me enough power.
dont see the need for inverting to 220v.
Main reason is to be able to charge laptop etc. I got my boat approved as home office so gotta make it work. :D
9003e switch and class-t fuse as main.
will follow your project.

Good point on the switch! I'll update the wiring diagram shortly. Starting to get a better understanding of all the bits and pieces here.
 
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So, the order from Fimeas includes the following:

- N50D Aircooled engine, rated 10kW, max 18kW
- Motor support kit,
- 48V 450A Curtis Controller in stainless steel case, cabled with contactor, fuses, 450W 12V dc converter
- Wig wag single lever (throttle)
- Curtis 840 display

Total ex. vat. and excluding shipping = 2715€.

Waiting for the cost of the aquadrive + shipping to Norway. Even though it's not a well known brand, I do think this is a good deal.
 
wow, engine is 59kg! massive power for small boat.
so when are u planning to go, this summer?
 
wow, engine is 59kg! massive power for small boat.
so when are u planning to go, this summer?

Well, the 5kw engine from Vetus weights 68kg, Waterworlds 10kW is around 76kg. My old trusty Marna MB10A (10hp) which I originally intended to use weights around 100-120kg.

My goal is definitely to get this sucker to run this summer. If all goes well, I should get batteries and engine delivered around end of april. By then, the main hull and electrical components and wiring should be ready for it to be installed directly.

But I'm a naive optimist.
 
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Wire by wire, fuse by fuse. I'm beginning to understand and define the setup for the boat. However, there's a lot of details still missing. Mind you, I have not looked that much into fuses and bus-bars, as I want to get the main components of the system in place before I complicate my wiring schematics further.

I'm currently looking at adding another battery pack (12V@280Ah) as the main source of power for all 12V appliances. Media, controls, bilge pump, fridge etc. It simplifies the 48V system somewhat, however I'm lost at what type and where the BMS comes into this system. I also want to be able to charge a computer, hence the Victron Multiplus 230V - 48V with the 230V outlet option.

Q: Can the following be simplified?

- Invert 230V to 48V to charge main battery back 48V
- 48V to 12V DC converter for main 12V appliances (separate battery pack?)
- Charge laptop through either Inverter or 12V battery pack. (is there a dc-dc converter from 48v to 12v that allows for one connection @19v?)

Any pointers, corrections and tips for the wiring diagram and Qs are more than welcome!


Pz8j7rR.jpg
 
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Hello! You have a pretty boat and a nice project!

You may want to think about the BMS protects the battery and how it interacts with your charge and discharge sources. Many people use charger/inverters in their stationary applications but separate chargers and inverters can be more robust, because the BMS would only turn one off for an over- or under-voltage condition, not both.

On a boat, I'd suggest you don't allow the BMS to cut the discharge. The operator should decide, when the BMS provides you a warning or alarm, whether or not your boat is in a safe position to stop drawing power, or whether you need to ruin the batteries to protect the boat. But if you only use shorepower to charge, it's not as big an issue, since switching off your shore charger when you are out on the water doesn't matter, and maybe switching off discharge when you are docked and charging doesn't matter, but I'd want that bilge pump and any alarms to be on. For a boat with solar that may be charging and discharging when in use and when docked, separting the charge and discharge controls seems important to me.

My boat has been electric powered since 2012, but I'm just installing LiFePO4 batteries and learning about their care and feeding, and control systems now. Here's my work-in-progress sketch: the BMS can disconnect the inverter and the DC/DC converter that provides 12V, and it will communicate with the motor controller, but I won't let it shut the motor controller off, and maybe won't even let it limit power. (I might not let it shut off the DC/DC either since that powers the navigation lights and instruments.)
 

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Hi, a few more thoughts:
  • I didn't see any mention of "precharge" or "pre-charge" which is a thing that one needs to know about when you have big inverters, powerful batteries, and a BMS. Since you are going to have a marine battery switch anyway, you can use that along with a resister or light bulb to accomplish precharge neatly. There's a "resource" on this forum about that and many other ways to accomplish precharge are discussed here.
  • https://groups.io/g/electricboats is a great resource. It's an email list (previously on yahoo) that has had waves of activity and may be useful for detailed Q&A, but it's definitely useful to search the archives for the times a question you may have has already been answered.
  • I think your diagram has a 48V/12V DC converter with a 12V battery downstream of it. I don't know much about that, but I have similar converter without a battery downstream of it and my 12V system always reads 13.1V. That is not enough to charge a battery. Having a 12V battery is a good idea for resiliency, but I think to do that you need a charger between the two voltages instead of a converter.
I'm happy to see all the electrification happening in Norway! The world knows you are leading in car electrification, despite being an oil producing country. I wish more of us would follow.
 
Hello! You have a pretty boat and a nice project!

You may want to think about the BMS protects the battery and how it interacts with your charge and discharge sources. Many people use charger/inverters in their stationary applications but separate chargers and inverters can be more robust, because the BMS would only turn one off for an over- or under-voltage condition, not both.

Okay, good point. I've been trying to find good solutions for pure charger from 230V to 48v, but for now the Multiplus seems like the best option. I also love the bluetooth solution from Victron, although not all components support this yet.

I'm still searching for a good BMS for this system as it has to handle a lot. Recommendations here?

On a boat, I'd suggest you don't allow the BMS to cut the discharge. The operator should decide, when the BMS provides you a warning or alarm, whether or not your boat is in a safe position to stop drawing power, or whether you need to ruin the batteries to protect the boat. But if you only use shorepower to charge, it's not as big an issue, since switching off your shore charger when you are out on the water doesn't matter, and maybe switching off discharge when you are docked and charging doesn't matter, but I'd want that bilge pump and any alarms to be on. For a boat with solar that may be charging and discharging when in use and when docked, separting the charge and discharge controls seems important to me.
BMS:
Valid points. I started reading up on BMS's last week, so I got some more digging to do here. I'll try to find a solution here as soon as possible so I can update this thread.


Bilge Pump:
From what I've understood, the bilge pump should bypass the main switch and always stay on. I've bought the Whale Supersub 650 which has automatic on-off switch with lever detection. Not sure how to wire a buypass from the 48V battery bank - DC-converter 12V?

My boat has been electric powered since 2012, but I'm just installing LiFePO4 batteries and learning about their care and feeding, and control systems now. Here's my work-in-progress sketch: the BMS can disconnect the inverter and the DC/DC converter that provides 12V, and it will communicate with the motor controller, but I won't let it shut the motor controller off, and maybe won't even let it limit power. (I might not let it shut off the DC/DC either since that powers the navigation lights and instruments.)

Nice! You're a pioneer! Like your sketch. I'm still learning to understand wiring diagrams, so I'm keeping it as simple as possible. For now.

Hi, a few more thoughts:
  • I didn't see any mention of "precharge" or "pre-charge" which is a thing that one needs to know about when you have big inverters, powerful batteries, and a BMS. Since you are going to have a marine battery switch anyway, you can use that along with a resister or light bulb to accomplish precharge neatly. There's a "resource" on this forum about that and many other ways to accomplish precharge are discussed here.

To be honest, I have not even thought about "charge" or pre-charge". I do see that that's something I have to dive deeper into understanding, thanks for pointing that out!

  • https://groups.io/g/electricboats is a great resource. It's an email list (previously on yahoo) that has had waves of activity and may be useful for detailed Q&A, but it's definitely useful to search the archives for the times a question you may have has already been answered.
I'll check it out! It's such a huge jungle in regards to knowledge and solutions that it's a bit difficult to know where to start.

  • I think your diagram has a 48V/12V DC converter with a 12V battery downstream of it. I don't know much about that, but I have similar converter without a battery downstream of it and my 12V system always reads 13.1V. That is not enough to charge a battery. Having a 12V battery is a good idea for resiliency, but I think to do that you need a charger between the two voltages instead of a converter.

Good point. I've discussed this in a Norwegian forum as well. I think I'll try to avoid the extra battery pack and just go with a DC-converter from 48V to 12V to run the 12V appliances. After some calculation, the estimated use would be around 640Wh, 12,5Ah@48v daily. Which is not much. Should be able to add a 12v battery later on if I find the need for it.

I'm happy to see all the electrification happening in Norway! The world knows you are leading in car electrification, despite being an oil producing country. I wish more of us would follow.

Thanks! It's great that the fortune from oil can be invested into future technology and renewable energy.
 
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From the wiring jungle to battery boxes. Because I want to install the battery packs below the flooring, I have to separate the batteries as there is cross-beams (don't know the english term here) at the bottom of the hull.

Is it possible to connect the batteries in series with separate containers at 4x3,2V @2880Ah? I'm building the boxes from plywood and epoxy to create waterproof system. I'll might 3D-print a bottom support frame for the batteries as well. See attached drawings.


bA5veEf.png
69ydZPF.png




Tomorrow, I'm going to make a mockup of the interior and battery boxes to see the overall sizes and how stuff fit together.
 
Much as i like a good 12v converter - I have one in my off grid home - I do not suggest them for marine usage - especially where critical systems (like a bilge pump or marine radio) is concerned. FWIW: Instead I suggest a single sealed AGM or Gel 12v - which is in turn connected to the main bank (or inverter) with a 12v battery charge controller. In case of an unexpected LFP BMS disconnect - critical systems remain on line. Also: A spare 48-12v converter can carried in emergency stores in case of a catastrophic failure of the 12v battery itself. My old girl below - had to bid her farewell a few years back.
 

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I'm still searching for a good BMS for this system as it has to handle a lot. Recommendations here?
I'm using the Orion Jr. 2 BMS. It has lots of options, but is pretty complex and pricey (compared to other options people here talk about. I don't think it's too expensive considering the cost and task of the batteries it's protecting, and I like the flexibility, support, and documentation). There's 90 pages of wiring and operating manuals to read. It's similar to TinyBMS, Rec Q, Batrium, Emus in that these all use external relays and contactors and are more programmable than the simple ones that come with batteries from the Chinese suppliers. Given what we are asking of the BMS, I wanted good English documentation. Several people including myself have found Orion responsive to questions. Emus is in Europe. I know it and Orion, and perhaps others, can communicate over a CANbus with chargers and controllers. Since you haven't bought the BMS or the charger yet, you have a chance to get ones that can communicate which will give more useful control than on/off. But I think there aren't many choices for chargers this powerful, and good for LiFePO4/BMS controllable.
Bilge Pump:
From what I've understood, the bilge pump should bypass the main switch and always stay on. I've bought the Whale Supersub 650 which has automatic on-off switch with lever detection. Not sure how to wire a buypass from the 48V battery bank - DC-converter 12V?
Right. With lead acid batteries, I wired the bilge pump directly to the battery terminals, which I think is common. Lithium feels like a different paradigm and the BMS wants control of all connections. But we already said how it's not allowed to shut off the motor. I can't connect it directly to the 48V battery anyway, and it leads to questions on letting the BMS shut off the 48V/12V converter. @GVSolar's suggestion to have a 12V battery would solve this.
Nice! You're a pioneer! Like your sketch. I'm still learning to understand wiring diagrams, so I'm keeping it as simple as possible. For now.
Thanks! Similarly, I'm using that sketch to think through the project and it started simpler. It's not a blueprint, but helps me see how things will work and where I need to plan more.
To be honest, I have not even thought about "charge" or pre-charge". I do see that that's something I have to dive deeper into understanding, thanks for pointing that out!
Yeah, I think I found out about it here. There's a lot to learn. I'm glad I did the EV conversion and PV separately from this because there's so much to learn about DIY LiFePO4 batteries, and the non-DIY ones aren't really suited for this application. I thanked my old batteries for dying in the fall before a pandemic winter: this has been a fun project, but wow are there considerations upon considerations, and I'm spending even more time on it than the large amount of time I anticipated.
Thanks! It's great that the fortune from oil can be invested into future technology and renewable energy.
Other countries have made fortunes from oil are not investing it so wisely.
Is it possible to connect the batteries in series with separate containers at 4x3,2V @2880Ah? I'm building the boxes from plywood and epoxy to create waterproof system. I'll might 3D-print a bottom support frame for the batteries as well. See attached drawings.
I think that's totally possible but you want to ensure your longer connections have the same resistance as the shorter ones or the BMS will get confused and think some of the cells are weaker. Orion lets you adjust thi,s at least for the center of the pack where it's common to have a longer bus bar or a fuse, but I can't remember if it allows each link to be individually adjusted.

The other consideration is that these aluminum cased cells are meant to be installed in a "fixture" or lightly compressed before they are ever charged or discharged, including during the initial balancing. This prevents them from bloating a bit which would reduce their cycle life. In mobile applications, the cells also need to be held in place so that they don't move and put stress on their terminals connections. Like "precharge," this forum has plenty of discussion on pack "fixture" and "compression." I think very tightly designed boxes like you are talking about could perform this function if the cells barely fit in when they are new and have a low SoC. Other people are making sure their cells always feel a certain amount of compression force regardless of SoC by using springs, but I'd suggest that's a rabbit hole.
 
Much as i like a good 12v converter - I have one in my off grid home - I do not suggest them for marine usage - especially where critical systems (like a bilge pump or marine radio) is concerned. FWIW: Instead I suggest a single sealed AGM or Gel 12v - which is in turn connected to the main bank (or inverter) with a 12v battery charge controller. In case of an unexpected LFP BMS disconnect - critical systems remain on line. Also: A spare 48-12v converter can carried in emergency stores in case of a catastrophic failure of the 12v battery itself. My old girl below - had to bid her farewell a few years back.

What a beauty that Blanchard was! Was lost due to an electrical failure?

In regards to a separate 12v system, that has been dwelling in my thoughts lately as well. I'm still trying to figure out the cleanest system setup to achieve an all out electric boat with the required safety features needed, however it's proven to be a lot more difficult than expected.

I found a similar question on a forum where they say that an MPPT could convert the 48v to 12v. If this works while also connecting solar panels to charge the 12v, that would be ideal.

Link: https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/16052/charging-a-12v-bank-from-a-48v-bank

Thoughts?
 
I'm using the Orion Jr. 2 BMS. It has lots of options, but is pretty complex and pricey (compared to other options people here talk about. I don't think it's too expensive considering the cost and task of the batteries it's protecting, and I like the flexibility, support, and documentation). There's 90 pages of wiring and operating manuals to read. It's similar to TinyBMS, Rec Q, Batrium, Emus in that these all use external relays and contactors and are more programmable than the simple ones that come with batteries from the Chinese suppliers. Given what we are asking of the BMS, I wanted good English documentation. Several people including myself have found Orion responsive to questions. Emus is in Europe. I know it and Orion, and perhaps others, can communicate over a CANbus with chargers and controllers. Since you haven't bought the BMS or the charger yet, you have a chance to get ones that can communicate which will give more useful control than on/off. But I think there aren't many choices for chargers this powerful, and good for LiFePO4/BMS controllable.
Even though I want to keep the the budget on line, I realize that its better to choose quality products here. I love the control and overview that Victron offers through their bluetooth system. I'll read up on Orion, been recommended RecQ and Batrium before as well.
Yeah, I think I found out about it here. There's a lot to learn. I'm glad I did the EV conversion and PV separately from this because there's so much to learn about DIY LiFePO4 batteries, and the non-DIY ones aren't really suited for this application. I thanked my old batteries for dying in the fall before a pandemic winter: this has been a fun project, but wow are there considerations upon considerations, and I'm spending even more time on it than the large amount of time I anticipated.
Yeah. I'm pretty naive when it comes to time and how much works stuff requires. On the positive side, I start projects like this pretty easily. Downside is that it always takes a lot more time....

I think that's totally possible but you want to ensure your longer connections have the same resistance as the shorter ones or the BMS will get confused and think some of the cells are weaker. Orion lets you adjust thi,s at least for the center of the pack where it's common to have a longer bus bar or a fuse, but I can't remember if it allows each link to be individually adjusted.

The other consideration is that these aluminum cased cells are meant to be installed in a "fixture" or lightly compressed before they are ever charged or discharged, including during the initial balancing. This prevents them from bloating a bit which would reduce their cycle life. In mobile applications, the cells also need to be held in place so that they don't move and put stress on their terminals connections. Like "precharge," this forum has plenty of discussion on pack "fixture" and "compression." I think very tightly designed boxes like you are talking about could perform this function if the cells barely fit in when they are new and have a low SoC. Other people are making sure their cells always feel a certain amount of compression force regardless of SoC by using springs, but I'd suggest that's a rabbit hole.

Yeah, gotcha. I'm building a mockup interior and battery boxes /engine tomorrow to check how the overall system can be installed so I should get a better view of the distances between engine, batteries etc. I have thought about how I can make a "compressing box" by have the opening at he end with a rubber gasket and rods, but the final design is yet to be decided.
 
What a beauty that Blanchard was! Was lost due to an electrical failure?

In regards to a separate 12v system, that has been dwelling in my thoughts lately as well. I'm still trying to figure out the cleanest system setup to achieve an all out electric boat with the required safety features needed, however it's proven to be a lot more difficult than expected.

I found a similar question on a forum where they say that an MPPT could convert the 48v to 12v. If this works while also connecting solar panels to charge the 12v, that would be ideal.

Link: https://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/16052/charging-a-12v-bank-from-a-48v-bank

Thoughts?
She was a sweetheart, 96 years old when I said goodbye... had her for 20 years, passed her on to the next brave soul ... a fellow who restored Victorians. Possibly a good match for a wooden boat. Like they say - "take a nice piece of furniture - throw it in the bay and see how she does" I still vote for the dedicated 12v battery - preferably sealed LA. Best.
 
One of the "benefits" of doing a complete refurbishing-project is that when you`re tired of looking at wiring diagrams, amps and voltage, there`s always something else to figure out. Since I "have" to re-do the interior and deck, I decided to try to make a mockup of the interior to see how the layout could be, as well as how the isiteek pattern would look like.

Hopefully, the wiring diagram is going to be updated within the next 2-3 days. Ready for more questionmarks. ?




Old flooring
2021-04-03 11.33.57.jpg


Mockup:
2021-04-03 15.27.35.jpg2021-04-03 15.27.45.jpg


5AB0DBX.png
IacGCM3.png









By the way. If you`re familiar with teak patterns of isiteek, don`t hesitate to come with suggestions for design or layout!
 
looks very promising, osb plates?

Just to create a mockup of the interior to see how the flooring, interior and the overal sizes are going to be. Cheaper than cutting into expensive mahogany plywood.
 
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have u got the cost estimate for the aquadrive ?, you ordered it from same supplyer as the n50, ready to fit?
 
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