Conductivity of SOK Style Battery Cases

[after1985]

How conductive (or dangerous) are the metallic cases/enclosures that are used for SOK and some other generic batteries vs. the plastic-style cases for Ampere Time/Chins?

For instance, if a terminal came loose and touched the enclosure of an SOK battery internally, will it cause a short? I've seen the pass-through lug terminals break due to shipping, so the potential is there to touch the case with either positive or negative.

 

[BentleyJ]

The case is probably not attached to the Neg of the battery. You are thinking in terms of automotive DC systems where the body/chassis is part of the circuit. The metal enclosure is to protect the contents that's all. To develop a short circuit involving the enclosure, you would need both Pos and Neg to break free and touch the enclosure at the same time.
If the SOK battery used for a system that is attached to the grid in any way then any metalic components should be tied to earth ground.

 

[after1985]

Here's a scenario I'm thinking about: The neg terminal is touching the case internally due to a broken pass through lug. I'm working on installing the battery or relocating it, and the positive cable slips and touches the positive terminal and the case at the same time. With whatever coating or paint is used on the SOK cases, would it protect from a short at all?

 

[BentleyJ]

For clarification, your terminology of "pass through lug" is taken to mean the insulated bulkhead lugs that pass through the chassis to the outside where the Pos & Neg cables feeding the Inverter get attached.
The first thing you should do (breaker OFF) is use a multimeter to check for continuity between the enclosure/chassis and both the Neg and Pos terminals. The resistance should show as extremely high or over limit meaning there is no connection. Before connecting anything, turn on the battery breaker and make sure it doesn't immediately trip due to a short. Now with the breaker on, check the voltage across the pass thru lugs. If its within the expected range it indicates both cables are attached to the lugs as they should be. If you are really paranoid, with the breaker still on, recheck the enclosure/chassis to make sure no voltage is present between the enclosure and either lug. If all this checks out, you should be OK. Finally, if you are installing the battery and/or moving it turn off the breaker.

 

[after1985]

Here's what I'm referring to.

I'm not really asking for help, I just want to know about the the metal enclosure specificially. Namely, if they're conductive, what is the point of using those rather than a plastic case? Has anyone on this forum had an issue with those cases due to the conductivity?

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Premium-Current-Terminal-Connectors/dp/B079K5HB79/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TAJQNDZY1IC7&keywords=pass+through+lug&qid=1653519949&sprefix=pass+through+lug%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078ZXTXSW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?pd_rd_i=B078ZXTXSW&pd_rd_w=Qf7W8&pf_rd_p=33c4e3fc-b90b-44ce-8b60-9caf530f918e&pd_rd_wg=jJHeo&pf_rd_r=2NMGV41EGVZCSR6B9D42&pd_rd_r=64bf7d54-0105-4fe6-a33d-c99d560c0f9f&s=automotive&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUDY0TE1XRjAwTTdJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzc5NTA4MTExRDc5RjRPVzdQUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjcwOTM4MzM5Rk9WTUVWMkxRNiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

 

[Alkaline]

If the metal case rubs against ANY 2 cells it will spark, this is assuming you have connected the cells.

Most of the DIY fires we have seen on people in RV setups is because of a metal enclosure eventually wearing through the blue covering and connecting 2 cells.

That being said if the battery is designed so that there is sufficient insulation around the case it should be ok. I don't know anyone has had a SOK burn up yet.