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Connecting Bluetti AC200 to 12v DC Fuse Box

MisterCookEMann

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Aug 30, 2020
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Hi, I think I've decided to get a Bluetti AC200 for my camper. This will be my first real electrical project I will be doing, and curious how I'm supposed to connect the Bluetti to the campers fuse box. I see it has a 12v 35amp plug but I am curious on what that plug/cord is, thats used with the outlet. Is that cord going to come with the Bluetti when it arrives in October? Has anyone wired Bluetti to their camper yet? Your help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Nobody has an AC200 right now as the first shippment of 153 is on a slow boat from China.
Look at the Indiegogo campaign page to see the 25A cable that you can buy for an additional $16.
 
The various cables were displayed in Will's review of this product. It looks the big DC cable terminates into an XT60 connector. You would simply create (or buy) a XT60 cable to mate and wire this into your fuse box (via a fuse). I wouldn't recommend simply snipping off the XT60 and wiring in directly because you may have send the unit back, or maybe just the cable if, for example, it develops a fault within the warranty period.
 
The various cables were displayed in Will's review of this product. It looks the big DC cable terminates into an XT60 connector. You would simply create (or buy) a XT60 cable to mate and wire this into your fuse box (via a fuse). I wouldn't recommend simply snipping off the XT60 and wiring in directly because you may have send the unit back, or maybe just the cable if, for example, it develops a fault within the warranty period.

Thanks for the info. I wasn't planning on a fuse. Should i just use a 25 amp inline fuse?
 
You would want to fuse every circuit connected to your source, whilst all the sub-circuits from the ATO fuses would be fused, what about the cable from the AC200 to the fuse box? If that develops a short, no fuse = tripped internal AC200 fuse*.

Typically you would take the expected load and multiply by 25% get your fuse value but, as your Bluetti DC output is limited to 25A, a 25A fuse makes more sense. An inline ATO fuse would be fine but if I were doing this I would fit a bolt-down midi fuse like the littlefuse 498 or flex series. That's just a personal choice, either would be fine.

Note: It seems a shame that this Bluesea fuse box doesn't have an incoming fuse, they even suggest fitting one in the schematics in Amazon's product description.

Actually, thinking a bit more on this, I would want the external fuse to blow before the internal fuse does, so maybe a quick-blow fuse would be better for this application? You might want to research this yourself. I recommend checking out littlefuse and blue sea.


*I am assuming that the AC200 has an internal fuse and that it is not user-serviceable. If it has some kind of re-settable breaker, I probably wouldn't bother with the external fuse. Sorry, I am not too familiar with the Ac200 specs.
 
Looking at those specs, it looks like a Bluetti 200 wouldn't support a typical trolling motor that pulls 30-50 amps at max speed. I wonder why they chose 25a max 12VDC output?
 
The various cables were displayed in Will's review of this product. It looks the big DC cable terminates into an XT60 connector. You would simply create (or buy) a XT60 cable to mate and wire this into your fuse box (via a fuse). I wouldn't recommend simply snipping off the XT60 and wiring in directly because you may have send the unit back, or maybe just the cable if, for example, it develops a fault within the warranty period.
The cable is clearly pictured on the Indiegogo sales page as a $16 extra that is Not included with the AC200.
The cable comes with a short XT60 to Anderson adapter.
That Anderson could be snipped off to be wired to the fuse box.
Dunno why you would have to send it back and at $16 I bought two of them.
 
The cable is clearly pictured on the Indiegogo sales page as a $16 extra that is Not included with the AC200.
The cable comes with a short XT60 to Anderson adapter.
That Anderson could be snipped off to be wired to the fuse box.
Dunno why you would have to send it back and at $16 I bought two of them.
[/QUOTE
You would want to fuse every circuit connected to your source, whilst all the sub-circuits from the ATO fuses would be fused, what about the cable from the AC200 to the fuse box? If that develops a short, no fuse = tripped internal AC200 fuse*.

Typically you would take the expected load and multiply by 25% get your fuse value but, as your Bluetti DC output is limited to 25A, a 25A fuse makes more sense. An inline ATO fuse would be fine but if I were doing this I would fit a bolt-down midi fuse like the littlefuse 498 or flex series. That's just a personal choice, either would be fine.

Note: It seems a shame that this Bluesea fuse box doesn't have an incoming fuse, they even suggest fitting one in the schematics in Amazon's product description.

Actually, thinking a bit more on this, I would want the external fuse to blow before the internal fuse does, so maybe a quick-blow fuse would be better for this application? You might want to research this yourself. I recommend checking out littlefuse and blue sea.


*I am assuming that the AC200 has an internal fuse and that it is not user-serviceable. If it has some kind of re-settable breaker, I probably wouldn't bother with the external fuse. Sorry, I am not too familiar with the Ac200 specs.

They advised me to wire a fuse between the Bluetti and the fusebox.
 
Did this get figured out? I just ordered the $16 cables which will connect into the 25Amp 12V port and will end in the anderson plug. I want to connect my espar heater, fridge, fan etc to this with a Fuse box if possible. has anyone got that working?
 
They advised me to wire a fuse between the Bluetti and the fusebox.
Ok, to sum up: you got the $16 25Amp 12V connector from Bluetti, you're gonna snip off the Anderson connector and wire that direct to your fuse box? But, you'll also add an additional 25 Amp inline fuse between the Bluetti and your fuse box? If that's right, what are people using for this 25 Amp fuse? Shouldn't it be at least a 30Amp fuse for the overhead?
 
Hi folks. I received my unit and bought a fuse block. The typical blue sea one that everyone uses. Took it to the local battery company(who specialize in van builds) and asked them how to connect to my battery using the 2 cables I purchased through bluetti. He said take the second cable, cut it and add ring terminals. I asked if they sold those - and he went to the back room and just cut and installed both for me. Black on and red one. $2. He mentioned no need for a fuse. Easy peasy.
 
Hi folks. I received my unit and bought a fuse block. The typical blue sea one that everyone uses. Took it to the local battery company(who specialize in van builds) and asked them how to connect to my battery using the 2 cables I purchased through bluetti. He said take the second cable, cut it and add ring terminals. I asked if they sold those - and he went to the back room and just cut and installed both for me. Black on and red one. $2. He mentioned no need for a fuse. Easy peasy.
Hi! Sounds good! I have also received by Bluetti AC200 and the $16 cables to connect to a fuse box. What do you mean by the “second cable”? Thanks!
 
Yes - i have this set of cables:

1607053508520.png

the first connects to the 25 amp port - and the second one he connected to the first and snipped off the wires just before the red/black that shows above.

Looks like this now:

1607053614207.png
 
Yes - i have this set of cables:

View attachment 29255

the first connects to the 25 amp port - and the second one he connected to the first and snipped off the wires just before the red/black that shows above.

Looks like this now:

View attachment 29256
Fantastic! Thanks so much, Sketchbookinc! I’ve been trying to get a definitive answer on this for awhile. Now I can relax and get to it ;).
 
So does anyone have specific instructions on how to connect the AC200 to an RV without just plugging the RV into one of the AC200's AC outlets? I haven't seen specifics on that. Like using the common systems found on a typical RV which is usually WFCO. I've got the aviation plug but I just don't know what to do with it.
 
It doesn’t look like anyone has posted on this thread in a while. Has anyone successfully connected their Bluetti to their 12V RV system? If so, can you share any pictures of what it looks like and instructions on connecting everything correctly?
In addition, I have a few more questions.
1. When you hardware the bluetti to the 12V system do you have to use a cutoff? I’m thinking about removing my lead acid battery altogether.
2. Can you tie in the Bluetti to the 120v system as well and what does that look like?
3. When you connect the RV to shore power through the TT30, can the Bluetti also be charged this way?

I have the AC200 Max and I have used the TT30 RV plug to connect it directly from my RV. What I have noticed is there seems to be a lot of draw coming from somewhere which I have assumed is just inefficiencies in the conversion? I would assume directly connecting to the 12V would net better power efficiency and consumption?

Thanks and hoping others have successfully done this or has some real world data on best practice.
 
It doesn’t look like anyone has posted on this thread in a while. Has anyone successfully connected their Bluetti to their 12V RV system? If so, can you share any pictures of what it looks like and instructions on connecting everything correctly?
In addition, I have a few more questions.
1. When you hardware the bluetti to the 12V system do you have to use a cutoff? I’m thinking about removing my lead acid battery altogether.
2. Can you tie in the Bluetti to the 120v system as well and what does that look like?
3. When you connect the RV to shore power through the TT30, can the Bluetti also be charged this way?

I have the AC200 Max and I have used the TT30 RV plug to connect it directly from my RV. What I have noticed is there seems to be a lot of draw coming from somewhere which I have assumed is just inefficiencies in the conversion? I would assume directly connecting to the 12V would net better power efficiency and consumption?

Thanks and hoping others have successfully done this or has some real world data on best practice.
I did not use a cutoff but I disconnected the onboard converter charger and connected the 12v output from the AC300 in its place. I just plugged the RV 30 amp plug into the RV receptacle on the AC300. I used a separate cord when I plugged in the AC300 into shore power for charging. The large draw you are seeing is from your onboard charger/converter charging the house batteries probably. I would use the house battery disconnect to prevent this when I was running off the AC300.

I sold that RV and now I have a 50amp class A that I am going to be using the AC300 in. A whole bunch of questions that I am going to need help with there!!
 
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