connecting inverter with the renogy 50 amp dc to dc HELP!!!!!

[travelingnunk]

yesterday I tried connecting my inverter to the dc to dc charger I have yet to connect solar. Alternator and 12 volt systems were working fine prior connecting the inverter. I did get a spark in my opinion it was a good one but I am new and even the little spark puts me off. When i use my meter to test for problems. I was getting a voltage at my negative bus bar, fuse box, dc to dc charger negative common, and also at the negative terminal side of my inverter. I have followed Will's Blueprint to the tee, reread the manual several times. When I disconnect the negative cable from the charger to my bus bar/fuse box they have no voltage. the inverter and the charger terminal still have voltage????
renogy 50 amp dc to dc charger
3000 go wise pure sine wave inverter
2 200 ah renogy sealed led acid
alternator is connected to the charger
300 ANL
70 amp circuit breaker
80 amp circuit breaker
80 amp fuse at car battery
***the two images are also my system but after I freaked out and started disconnecting by process of elimination trying to find the cause of the voltage flow in my negative highway..

below link is pretty much my system to the tee

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

 

[Supervstech]

Why do you have a dc to dc? SLA shouldn’t need more than a bank isolator. Dc to dc is for protecting alternators from excessive ampdraw. I guess, the ampdraw could be excessive when the inverter is running…
Anyway, I guess I don’t follow what your question is.

 

[gfmucci]

Why do you have a dc to dc? SLA shouldn’t need more than a bank isolator. Dc to dc is for protecting alternators from excessive ampdraw. I guess, the ampdraw could be excessive when the inverter is running…
Anyway, I guess I don’t follow what your question is.

In my case, I'm using a DC to DC "converter" to bring 12 volts from my alternator in my car up to 48 volts, and 40 amps from the alternator down to 10 amps to charge, in my case, an Echoflow Delta, to charge it up quicker. I'm wundering if the OP might be concerned that he blew out his alternator. OP: Please clarify.

 

[A.Justice]

I have the 40 amp unit and it says specifically NOT to directly connect to the alternator. It needs to be hooked up to the battery, and it won't work properly if you don't.

Mine has some issues charging from a server rack PSU, without a specific startup procedure. Disconnect DC-DC charger from one pole of battery to be charged + PSU on (or on your case, alternator) + DC to DC on (using IGN sense wire on a switch) then re-connect second battery.

The DC to DC goes in to error mode if it comes on at the same time as it's power source. I THINK it tries to pull 40+ amps and can't get it right away, so it shuts down, if you let the source "power up" there aren't any issues. That's why it wants to be hooked to a battery, so it can have a large, immediate, draw. The Renogy would try to come on as soon as it saw ignition sense on, which would mean that the alternator was still ramping up while the car cranked on.