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Copying Will's tesla basic setup - questions

CamaroMan

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Nov 26, 2022
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Ok so first off the bat - picked up the Tesla battery 2 days ago from an ebay seller, it was at 17.5v when i checked this morning. Is this a problem? Had it charging today using wills params on his page below, got up to almost 22v before sunset (was a super cloudy day here)..

(his tutorial is here:) https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/1212121.html

Now onto the fuse sizing.. this is will diagram I have just put pictures in to show my actual setup

I am planning to put a 32A DC breaker / disconnect between panels and controller. For the main fuse (circled) i plan to put a 400a bolt on fuse)..

tesla-layout.jpg
 
2x 48Voc panels in series will exceed the 100V SCC limit when just a few degrees below 25C (77F).
32A breaker would make a decent cutoff switch. Fairly well sized for breaker for 20A array (2P).

i plan to put a 400a bolt on fuse
MRB fuse? I think class T fuses are the recommended type for lithium batteries.

I have no experience with Tesla batteries.

Have you searched?
 
Get a couple volts into that module asap if you plan on letting it sit for long while you research this (which you should) before deploying it. Most when purchased from salvagers/ebay etc arrive at around 22 or 23 volts. I The batch I received last month, (9 of them) arrived with 19 volts.

The pack is considered to be 0% State of Charge (SOC) when the module measures 18.6 volts. A 70% charge typically measures 23.1 volts, and a 100% charge is about 24.9 volts.

We don't want to see it go much lower than it is now..... ok, scratch that, I see you're at 22v now, well done.... keep her there... you probably won't have to top it up while you spend MONTHS reading and getting up to speed on these modules... I have 4 that have been sitting in my garage at 23 volts for 2 years, they are incredible for slow self discharge. You're out of the danger zone now... well done!!!!!!
 
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For reasons that Will feels strongly about he has removed most of his Tesla information from the site so you may not see a lot of info here. It's just not worth the risk to have the information out there, most people are not ready to handle the dangers of these modules so I fully support the decision that @Will Prowse made.

@dougbert and I are discussing our builds in this thread (link below), I'd recommend you read all 36 pages before you do anything. Also watch Youtube videos, search for Tom with "Mortons on the Move" watch his videos.....

Here is Doug's thread, Doug is a wealth of information and I've posted some good info there as well.... the best advice I can give you is to walk slowly through this minefield grasshopper, the home you save from becoming a smoking pile of ash may be your own.... :)


We're a bit of a hush hush group us Tesla module people.... but you're among friends, just don't do anything stupid that's going to be a heat magnet for us, we already scare people and they close the doors as we walk down the halls in their direction (they're just jealous of how cheap our storage is)..... :ROFLMAO:

PS: Buy fire extinguishers and ensure you're up to date on your fire insurance premiums.... and if you're ready to dance with the devil and ride this pony, welcome aboard, there's no mistaking the value and potential of Tesla modules, are YOU ready to ride this rocket?.


Jen
 
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I went with Tesla modules because they were (when I started with them) 1/2 the cost per kwh (around $300) than the commercial products at the time ($700+ per kwh). Today EG4 modules run less than $300 per kwh without the need for the controller mentioned below

BUT tesla modules need a robust and a strong Management controller. I went with the EVTV.ME devices, yet it costs $3600 after parts are added just for the controller. YET After 4 modules and the controller, price per kwh goes down nicely.

If I were starting TODAY, I would not do the tesla modules as the EG4 are as cheap and have UL listing.

Also I wish I could do an outbuilding to house my power plant, like @Jennifer has done, for greater protection

research, research and research. Don't go cheap on management of these modules, read my posts on what I encountered with teslas and what I did to protect them and protect my house
 
I went with Tesla modules because they were (when I started with them) 1/2 the cost per kwh (around $300) than the commercial products at the time ($700+ per kwh). Today EG4 modules run less than $300 per kwh without the need for the controller mentioned below

BUT tesla modules need a robust and a strong Management controller. I went with the EVTV.ME devices, yet it costs $3600 after parts are added just for the controller. YET After 4 modules and the controller, price per kwh goes down nicely.

If I were starting TODAY, I would not do the tesla modules as the EG4 are as cheap and have UL listing.

Also I wish I could do an outbuilding to house my power plant, like @Jennifer has done, for greater protection

research, research and research. Don't go cheap on management of these modules, read my posts on what I encountered with teslas and what I did to protect them and protect my house
I agree with EVERYTHING Doug has said, other than one thing, there seems to have been some reliability issues lately with some of the rack mount stuff, I won't name names but the model rhymes with EG4 (oh gasp, did I say that out loud? ?). But yes, Doug brings up a VERY good point..... You are early enough in that you have a decision to make....... it may be better off to sell the module you have and switch directions... both Doug and I have several thousand invested JUST IN A BMS to tame this beast.... we both own this unit (and the $1,000 + worth of cables, bus bars, contactors etc needed to make it work).....

https://store.evtv.me/products/esp32bms

Now granted it allows lots of expand-ability but you really should consider other options, they weren't so widely available/adopted when he and I started down this rabbit hole.

Jen

Note: If you're willing to put up with the garbage like this guy did below, then EG4's are your safest bet and you're early enough in to change course... It may be more frustrating but no ones home ever went up like a Chinese New Year celebration because of a loose bus bar connection, we can't say the same about Tesla modules. LOL

 
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Ok so first off the bat - picked up the Tesla battery 2 days ago from an ebay seller, it was at 17.5v when i checked this morning. Is this a problem? Had it charging today using wills params on his page below, got up to almost 22v before sunset (was a super cloudy day here)..

The most important thing you can gain, that you can learn if you continue down this journey can be summed up in one word.. 'respect'... you have to respect both the power AND more importantly, the danger of these modules.... never become complacent around them and never assume you can make a mistake like you can with other batteries, there is ZERO room for error with these...... 2nd in importance would be a healthy dose of 'fear'. :)
 
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Thanks, yes ive decided to join the club. No turning back. Secondly i have to add this is not in my RV, its at my shop in shipping containers and i plan to put the tesla bat outside in a commercial steel storage box with a remote smoke alarm ..

I just hooked up the batt yesterday to the victron (im only using victron controllers).. BT versions so i can dial it in on phone ..

So back to questions yes aware series wd he close to max, might add a 3rd panel if need be so will stick with parallel. The 32a is for the 30amp charge controller..

Im basically running a small garage with this setup.. my inverter is pretty hefty so i think ill prob stick with 400 into breaker box and gfci outlets from there shd be fine..

Yes watched mortons and will few times, morton talks WAY too much haha, will rocks, always to the pt and drives in/repeats the critical point's, hes a great and natural teacher.. yes im biased, and im a research junky which is why i trust will.. guy is on it.

Either way should i be concerned with the battery being so low at 17.6v? Shd i tell the ebay seller? Could the rise in v be a false positive? Cell damage down the road, reduced capacity?

Last ghy why airbnbd with us was a battery scientist for 30 years might get his opinion. He knows ALOT, rc planes, works for ev companies etc.. might pick his brain.
 
Yes watched mortons and will few times, morton talks WAY too much haha,
Theres no such thing when it comes to these but I hear ya, he’s a techie and is very passionate anout these (or was). Make sure to read his fire risk/update about the Victron disconnect if you plan to use one.

I‘d let the eBay seller know about the voltage to get it on the record but doubt there is any long lasting impacts. You did the right thing and got it back up, off the bottom, provided it didn’t sit at 17 for years before you received, it I’m sure your fine.
 
Mod can you please move this thread to the “second life lithium” section please, thanks.
 
Perhaps slightly off topic, but how does the desert heat effect your pack and charge and discharge?

I only charge my Tesla level 1 and have only had it in cooler weather, 60s to 90s, but whenever I plug it into charge I hear noises which I assume is either a fan or a cooler. The level 1 charger takes 1400 watts from the wall.

My model 3 standard range battery size on the model 3 is a mystery, but my guess is I charge at a .02 C to .04 C and a battery conditioner still comes
 
Also wondering if there is an affordable way to remote monitor the victron solar controller? its on wifi at the shop - or place this near the inside security cam? :)

Found suggestions to leave a spare phone at site and use remote access (teamviewer etc) - most viable maybe.. I have a spare thats kinda junk..

1678637286377.png
 
Also - any comments to this layout?

https://community.victronenergy.com...with-2-battery-protect-alternative-layou.html

801-20181209-094147.jpg
 
Found the updated MotM page for the tesla setup - will take a look at it.. He does have very good tech info - much appreciated.. link here for future Ref: https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/updated-tesla-module-rv-installation/

Ill post here with any further questions regarding layout and any improvements. Im not running any 12v stuff, no AC input, JUST an inverter to run 110 and 220v..
Keep an eye on the Victron Community Forums as well... lots of great reading over there.

 
Also wondering if there is an affordable way to remote monitor the victron solar controller? its on wifi at the shop - or place this near the inside security cam? :)

Found suggestions to leave a spare phone at site and use remote access (teamviewer etc) - most viable maybe.. I have a spare thats kinda junk..

View attachment 139254
You can go with a Cerbo GX system for monitoring via their VRM portal but if you only want basic one way monitoring, not two way you can get a Victron Global Link which includes a sim and 5 years worth of cell data.


System above looks good, what size is that fuse on the battery V+ line? Your battery disconnect appears out of circuit, are you putting that back in circuit (highly recommended).

Jen
 
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This guy has some great pages as well:

Heating Tesla modules:

Charging a Tesla module:

Balancing a Tesla module:

Tesla module load:

RV Solar System 4500 Watt 24 Volt with 16 KWh Tesla Modules:
 
This guy has some great pages as well:

Heating Tesla modules:

Charging a Tesla module:

Balancing a Tesla module:

Tesla module load:

RV Solar System 4500 Watt 24 Volt with 16 KWh Tesla Modules:

Good reading there- that is not my setup but with all the updates flying around i want to first have a diagram layout before i start drilling holes and mounting things-
Received the smart battery disconnect last night (220a version).. no way ill ever draw more than that.. and in Southern Cali so no need for cooling here where i live (sea level).
 
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