skeeter_ca
New Member
Please evaluate my RV solar system design using an EG4 6000xp, 4 48v ecoworthy rack batteries and 5310w of solar panels. See diagram. GO!
Critique my RV Solar System?
- Thread starter skeeter_ca
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Wire your batteries first in last out. Individual lines to each battery can cause uneven current. Might be miniscule and not be an issue but first in last out wiring is self balancing for current draw or charging current. Or at least it takes the cabling out of the equation
I haven't run through the EG4 6000XP manual, but does it have a generator input? Can you use that instead of the other charger?
I haven't run through the EG4 6000XP manual, but does it have a generator input? Can you use that instead of the other charger?
Your over thinking this
You don’t need all the extra stuff
Just the 6000xp, factory converter already in rv, batteries and panels and wiring. I seriously doubt you’ll need the charge converter or a generator with that many panels
As for reference I have 7 450w panels ran in series on top of 5th wheel with just the 6000xp and 2 100 ah eg4 batteries and the factory converter
Swapped out the fridge and water heater for all electric appliances
Only have propane for heat and stovetop
Only issue I’ve had is if water heater (1700 w) and microwave (1700w) or AC (1500w) is running at the same time and it over loads the system because it only has 3000 watts per leg
I was told by Signature Solar if I had more then 2 batteries that I should use bus bars instead of just the wires it came with
You don’t need all the extra stuff
Just the 6000xp, factory converter already in rv, batteries and panels and wiring. I seriously doubt you’ll need the charge converter or a generator with that many panels
As for reference I have 7 450w panels ran in series on top of 5th wheel with just the 6000xp and 2 100 ah eg4 batteries and the factory converter
Swapped out the fridge and water heater for all electric appliances
Only have propane for heat and stovetop
Only issue I’ve had is if water heater (1700 w) and microwave (1700w) or AC (1500w) is running at the same time and it over loads the system because it only has 3000 watts per leg
I was told by Signature Solar if I had more then 2 batteries that I should use bus bars instead of just the wires it came with
skeeter_ca
New Member
The best option to wiring the batteries is to wire each battery with equal length cables to a common bus bar then to the inverter. Using first in last out is the second best option.
It does have a generator input but is limited. It requires a 240v input or if using 120v it disables L2 output so the work around is to use the chargverter to charge the batteries directly and the 6000xp would output on both legs as normal. If anyone has a better workaround i would like to hear it.
skeeter
It does have a generator input but is limited. It requires a 240v input or if using 120v it disables L2 output so the work around is to use the chargverter to charge the batteries directly and the 6000xp would output on both legs as normal. If anyone has a better workaround i would like to hear it.
skeeter
skeeter_ca
New Member
HI Erk326,
Did you eliminate the factory 12v battery? Does the factory converter work without a 12v battery?
skeeter
Did you eliminate the factory 12v battery? Does the factory converter work without a 12v battery?
skeeter
Something else to add
I have 2 rooftop ac’s and can run both without soft starts at the same time
Thinking of removing one and put in a mini split in to resolve the issue of to much consumption at once over the 3000 watts limit or a switch on the water heater to control when it comes on
I have 2 rooftop ac’s and can run both without soft starts at the same time
Thinking of removing one and put in a mini split in to resolve the issue of to much consumption at once over the 3000 watts limit or a switch on the water heater to control when it comes on
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skeeter_ca
New Member
The only thing i don't like about my design is when using 120v shore power, there is no way to monitor power usage below the in coming power. By using a battery and the factory battery charger all power usage would go through the 6000xp. i would perfer an ac power supply that could handle the electric gear loads and eliminate the battery. What do you think?
skeeter
skeeter
OP, given what you wrote about wiring the 6000XP to shore power and generator, why are you using a 6000XP?
A Victron Quattro can accept both shore power and generator inputs. In has two AC-in ports. It will also charge a 48 volt battery without the need for a Chargerverter. Unless you have an on-board generator, you don't need two AC-in ports, just one for the shore power since you'll plug the shore power cord into your portable generator. In that case, get a Multiplus, not a Quattro.
I'm not sure why you need an Inverter/bypass switch.
There should be a dual pole breaker between the solar charge controller (6000XP in this case) and the solar panels.
On your second Lynx Power In, you don't need two disconnects. Just one, on the positive leg.
I'm running a Quattro 48/3000 in my camper with a DIY 280 Ah 48v battery. A Victron Orion Tr 48-12 provides power to the camper's 12 volt system.
Check the idle draw of the 6000XP. All-in-one units often has such a high idle draw that they don't make sense for mobile situations.
A Victron Quattro can accept both shore power and generator inputs. In has two AC-in ports. It will also charge a 48 volt battery without the need for a Chargerverter. Unless you have an on-board generator, you don't need two AC-in ports, just one for the shore power since you'll plug the shore power cord into your portable generator. In that case, get a Multiplus, not a Quattro.
I'm not sure why you need an Inverter/bypass switch.
There should be a dual pole breaker between the solar charge controller (6000XP in this case) and the solar panels.
On your second Lynx Power In, you don't need two disconnects. Just one, on the positive leg.
I'm running a Quattro 48/3000 in my camper with a DIY 280 Ah 48v battery. A Victron Orion Tr 48-12 provides power to the camper's 12 volt system.
Check the idle draw of the 6000XP. All-in-one units often has such a high idle draw that they don't make sense for mobile situations.
Victron lists the idle consumption (Zero load power in Victron-speak) in the datasheet for all their inverters. 12 to 25 watts depending on which mode is used.
So what I understand is you have one 48v 3000 watt inverter that at idle uses between 12 and 25 watts
The 6000xp is 48v 6000 watt at idle uses 30 to 50 watts
I just don’t see how 25 watts would make any difference for someone that wants to put 5300 watts of solar on their roof
The 6000xp is 48v 6000 watt at idle uses 30 to 50 watts
I just don’t see how 25 watts would make any difference for someone that wants to put 5300 watts of solar on their roof
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The point is that the Victron usually has a lower idle consumption than other brands. If you're without a charge from PV due to weather for a couple days, the idle consumption adds up.
This poster is wanting to install 4 48v 100 ah batteries
That’s 19200 wh
So for 25 wh it would take 32 days of zero charge to go thru the batteries
Also your inverter is half the size
So if you where to have 2 installed they would be equal for idle consumption
Your saying a couple rainy days makes a difference
I just don’t see it
That’s 19200 wh
So for 25 wh it would take 32 days of zero charge to go thru the batteries
Also your inverter is half the size
So if you where to have 2 installed they would be equal for idle consumption
Your saying a couple rainy days makes a difference
I just don’t see it
The diagram shows only three batteries. The point being that the more efficient your components are, the less you have to spend on everything else.
skeeter_ca
New Member
Cost was the reason i first started looking at AIO's. The Quattro 48/3000 runs about $1400 for one. A EG4 6000xp also runs about $1400. But to equal the power you would need 2 Quatto's and at least 2 solar contoller/chargers. You would also need ac and dc circuit breakers. One EG4 6000xp includes all of those items. You could also use a Quattro 5000 but that does quite equal the power of the 6000xp and you would still need all that other stuff mentioned. It does does have shore power and generator inputs however as described before it must be 240v inputs or it just does not behave properly. The chargverter seems to solve this problem. The added benefit is the Chargverter cleans up any dirty power to a clean power. Sometimes generators if not operated at their optimal speed can produce a dirty ac sinewave which can eventaully cause damage to the inverter. You could use two EG4 3000 inverters with almost the same results but the 6000xp has fantastic surge capabilities which i am hoping will help with ac unit start ups without soft starts, saving another $1000.
The inverter bypass switch was just so i could shut down the inverter system to do upgrades, reprogramming on the ac side while plugged into shore power and the rv power not be interrupted.
The 6000xp includes a built-in dual pole dc breaker.
The dual disconnects just give me piece of mind if wanting to isolate the dc side from the inverter when working on it.
I showed a 48v to 12v converter which is the same as your Orion Tr 48-12 but at a lower cost but still reliable. Again cost is a factor.
The Idle draw for the 6000xp has been varified at less than 50ma.
skeeter
skeeter_ca
New Member
I have upgraded my plans for 4 48v 100ah batteries. Just have not changed the diagram.
skeeter
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skeeter_ca
New Member
I understand the Victron line of equipment is outstanding and respect there prooducts, however that does not mean they are the only reliable system out there. The EG4 6000xp inverter is the most popular residential inverter/charger All-in-One (AIO) on the market today. It has alot of beneficial features that are above most inverters. I understand the blue crews loyalty but there are other options out there.
skeeter
skeeter
The biggest reason I chose to be on the black and silver team……
The wiring
I added 18 contact points of failure
I lost count looking at a Victron Quattro system at 125 contact points of failure
Rv’s are a rolling earthquakes
And the price is nicer too
All in including the roof unistruts and hardware and the system from signature solar
I’m under $6000
Your not touching anything blue for that
The wiring
I added 18 contact points of failure
I lost count looking at a Victron Quattro system at 125 contact points of failure
Rv’s are a rolling earthquakes
And the price is nicer too
All in including the roof unistruts and hardware and the system from signature solar
I’m under $6000
Your not touching anything blue for that
skeeter_ca
New Member
Yes, i love the simplicity of an AIO.
skeeter
skeeter
ideasculptor
New Member
I'm about to embark on building a near identical system, also in a 5th wheel trailer, though I hadn't designed it all out to that level of detail, so I found that super helpful. I'm a beginner, so I have no useful feedback, but I thank you for your work here.
If you are building this right now, or want to fly over my shoulder while I build it, feel free to reach out via private message - I assume this forum has that (I'm new here). I'm going to be buying hardware by this afternoon and hopefully installing stuff by wednesday (I'm in the same city as currentconnected, so they said I just need to give them 24-48 hours to prep an order for pickup)
I've seen no suggested workaround for switching between on and off-grid other than what you have here - at least other than manually setting the ground/neutral bond setting every time you plug in. One thought I had was if that setting is accessible from their remote API, even if only through some complicated series of operations, it could be possible to build a simple switch that will adjust the setting with a single button click even though their built-in user interface makes changing it a pain in the neck. If that could be done, you could eliminate the second charger and that extra complexity, replacing it with an esp32 microcontroller and a switch (or equivalent), and just feeding grid and generator directly to the 6000xp. You would just have to hit a button to switch the setting whenever you plug into the grid.
It's not clear from the discussion on Will's site whether forgetting to adjust that setting would be catastrophic or would just cause things not to work. Hopefully, there's at least enough protection built in that you wouldn't risk blowing anything up permanently if you get the order of operations wrong.
If you are building this right now, or want to fly over my shoulder while I build it, feel free to reach out via private message - I assume this forum has that (I'm new here). I'm going to be buying hardware by this afternoon and hopefully installing stuff by wednesday (I'm in the same city as currentconnected, so they said I just need to give them 24-48 hours to prep an order for pickup)
I've seen no suggested workaround for switching between on and off-grid other than what you have here - at least other than manually setting the ground/neutral bond setting every time you plug in. One thought I had was if that setting is accessible from their remote API, even if only through some complicated series of operations, it could be possible to build a simple switch that will adjust the setting with a single button click even though their built-in user interface makes changing it a pain in the neck. If that could be done, you could eliminate the second charger and that extra complexity, replacing it with an esp32 microcontroller and a switch (or equivalent), and just feeding grid and generator directly to the 6000xp. You would just have to hit a button to switch the setting whenever you plug into the grid.
It's not clear from the discussion on Will's site whether forgetting to adjust that setting would be catastrophic or would just cause things not to work. Hopefully, there's at least enough protection built in that you wouldn't risk blowing anything up permanently if you get the order of operations wrong.
skeeter_ca
New Member
Good to hear another 6000xp going RVing. I am as of right now building my elevated solar mounting system. Then the solar panels will be installed and then ordering the 6000 and batteries. Hope to have completed within a couple weeks. Then we will be full time RVer's. Any questions you have let me know. I was planning on switching ground manually when needed. Hope i don't forget.
skeeter
skeeter
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There is a video from eg4 that that explains the neutral ground issue that seems to be your concern
I asked about it when I purchased my equipment and was told that all 6000xp that were made after May of 2024 that the screw was installed
I simply plug into the rv park like normal and it will start charging if below the recommended setting of 20% SOC and that can be changed by user if you chose to
I have mine set to stop charging at 25%
I asked about it when I purchased my equipment and was told that all 6000xp that were made after May of 2024 that the screw was installed
I simply plug into the rv park like normal and it will start charging if below the recommended setting of 20% SOC and that can be changed by user if you chose to
I have mine set to stop charging at 25%
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