Crude at this point, but my design needs scrutiny please

Stepandwolf

Solar Enthusiast
Solar panels, the link has examples.
Duh, for some reason I was thinking power distribution panel....(slapping forehead)

The specs I have say the panels are rated a 5.56a at optimum operating current and says there is a temp range of -40 to176f. Does say max series fuse rating is 15A. I don't know if that helps answer your question.
I'd write/call them and ask then. If they're speccing a 300A fuse that means they expect there can be 300A on it, in which case the wire gauge might be off.
I wrote the dealer who is Battle Born as Victron doesn't want direct contact it seems. I also sent the diagram to see if they will comment.
Not sure... possibly those ratings are the maximum ratings rather than the continuous ones?
Worse of all, could be some kind of peak rating that it could produce for a nano second.

Still need to know what kind of wire to use under the TT floor between power center and battery center...

Thanks..
 

svetz

Works in theory! Practice? That's something else
Staff member
Moderator
Duh, for some reason I was thinking power distribution panel....(slapping forehead)
I do both of those all the time.

Still need to know what kind of wire to use under the TT floor between power center and battery center...
I know nada about trailer wiring. Hopefully someone's about for that. What's it most subject to? temperature, abrasion, vibration, water, chemicals, squirrels??

Oh, here's a thought.... any wires down there with writing on them that tell you the wire classification for that application?
 

Stepandwolf

Solar Enthusiast
I do both of those all the time.


I know nada about trailer wiring. Hopefully someone's about for that. What's it most subject to? temperature, abrasion, vibration, water, chemicals, squirrels??

Oh, here's a thought.... any wires down there with writing on them that tell you the wire classification for that application?
Most of the TT's wiring is in the ceiling and walls as it easier during the build. I don't remember seeing any wires under the trailer once you got past the hitch wiring. Since I will have 10ga going in both directions and I will have another 8ga wire to run in there, plus the UTP cable, perhaps a conduit big enough for everything. I know it is probably breaking 10 codes to run all this stuff together, but the alternative of every wire running separate seems excessive.
 

Stepandwolf

Solar Enthusiast
OK....heard back from the Battle Born tech regarding the 300A fuse. I framed the question regarding the suggested 1/0 cable although in my case I am intending to use 2/0.

"The current carrying capacity of 1/0 wire will depend on the quality of the wire itself. If you opt to use some high strand pure copper wire, like welding wire, you may have the ability to carry upwards of 285 amps continuous. If you are using a 3,000 watt, 12 volt inverter then you can only pull a maximum continuous current of 250 amps. The 300 amp quick blow fuse should work fine as we want to account for a small spike or surge over the max current that can transmit through the system."

Think his answer was a bit off focus, as he says 12 volt when I was asking about 24 volt.

Will write him back as his answer for 24V should change. Their manual suggests 400A fuse for the 12v version of the inverter.

I had him look at my wiring diagram and he noticed a goof. It showed the negative from the SCC going to the battery side of the shunt.
 
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