DALY Smart BMS question

[Yurtdweller]

Hello
My 200A Daly Smart BMS has a working low temperature cutoff with user programmable parameters.
I have tested the function and it works.

Thomas

My 100a daly smart bms was shutdown this morning due to cold. Bms indicated 5°c, and system did not accept charging until it reached 10 or 11°c. Parameter was set by the builder at 5°c. I cannot find any setting or indication what the restart temp should be, but it appears there is a 5° margin. I am in an uninsulated, unheated yurt, and I do not believe the weather got below freezing last night, but I do not currently have a weather thermometer. Regardless, it does appear temp controls on bms are funtioning as expected.

 

[Mountainlion]

Also you can wake up the Daly BMS with shorting the 2 PINs of the "Key" Port. My BMS ist a 100% Daly Smart BMS 4S 250A from DeligreenCS.
The Key Port is not labeld, but it is working perfect

Here pictures from my BMS and the port i mean:
View attachment 33529View attachment 33530View attachment 33531

Hi Otte,

I have the same BMS you have in your pictures.

The manual that was included was for another BMS.

Do you explain where to connect:

Bluetooth module?
USB cable
Temp sensor?

 

[otte]

Do you explain where to connect:

Bluetooth module?
USB cable
Temp sensor?

Will this help you?

 

[Just John]

DALY doesn't have low temp protection.

Try Overkillsolar

Mine do. Apparently it is a new thing you can add.

 

[Just John]

The display is the same as Bluetooth, no change possible.
Only via UART / USB / computer connection is change possible.

That being said..
Daly quality lately is crap at the +100A models...
If you need 100A or more, buy 2 or 3 to have swap unit ready as it won't live long.

It must depend on the model you purchase. My 250 amp Daly's have no problems changing settings via Bluetooth.

 

[Frank in Thailand]

It must depend on the model you purchase. My 250 amp Daly's have no problems changing settings via Bluetooth.

Not so much model....
Revision.
4 huge hardware changes in 9 months.
With other words, we are the test field, where Daly does improve but those who have the bad luck of getting older revision...
Have bad luck.

Yes, wait for it to fail and spend $75 to return to China for "repair"...
And pay $75 extra to get "upgraded version"...

No thank you.

Feel free to play guinea pig for Daly, this malpractice scratches Daly totally of my recommendation list.

This seems like promising alternative:
AliExpress link 1 (S7 -S20)
AliExpress link 2 (S13-20)

And DIY solar forum discussion

 

[Yurtdweller]

Well, once again it got cold here last night. When I checked, battery not charging due to low temp shutdown. Was at 11°c. Once it hit 14°c it started charging again. 100amp daly smart bms. It makes me nervous, though, so I am looking into a heater. My battery will probably only see subfreezing temps 20 or 30 times a year, but they are predicting 12°F this week (north of Houston Tx!) So I guess it's best to be prepared.

 

[Frank in Thailand]

Well, once again it got cold here last night. When I checked, battery not charging due to low temp shutdown. Was at 11°c. Once it hit 14°c it started charging again. 100amp daly smart bms. It makes me nervous, though, so I am looking into a heater. My battery will probably only see subfreezing temps 20 or 30 times a year, but they are predicting 12°F this week (north of Houston Tx!) So I guess it's best to be prepared.

Hi Yurt,

Well...
It looks like that atleast the protection is working

I'm confused about reading Celsius and Fahrenheit in the same sentence.

Being not from USA, I think you intended only Fahrenheit.

11F is -11.6 Celcius.
Freezing...
It should have stopped above 32.

11 Celcius, 52F, is kind of high to stop.
No need to.

For charging it is good practice to stop charging below 50F

For using, down to 32 should not be bad.

The cells heat up a little when discharge.

You can pack them in a blanket and keep them warm with their own generated heat.

Small electric blanket can help also, or those sheets they have for reptile houses.

I would not use charcoal fire to close

Seriously, if it's Celcius..
Nothing to worry about.
If it's farhenheit ... Then the BMS should have stopped before 11F and not start charging at 14F !!!!

That freezing!

 

[Yurtdweller]

Possible low temp disconnect failure. Ok. I've just installed a seedling warmer pad under my pack, and tucked my battery into a nice warm coat liner. When I got home tonight, I checked the app and it said the battery was at 4°c, but that the chrg MOS was still in the on position. In my parameters, it says the LTD is set to 5°c. Does this mean that the low temp cutoff has failed? Temps are just below freezing according to the internet. I don't have a reliable thermometer at the moment. But my seedling warmer has the pack up to 9°c now, so I guess I don't need to disconnect from my charge controller, right? If the sun comes out, it is usually before I get out of bed. Especially since I don't heat my yurt at night

 

[Yurtdweller]

Hi Yurt,

Well...
It looks like that atleast the protection is working

I'm confused about reading Celsius and Fahrenheit in the same sentence.

Being not from USA, I think you intended only Fahrenheit.

11F is -11.6 Celcius.
Freezing...
It should have stopped above 32.

11 Celcius, 52F, is kind of high to stop.
No need to.

For charging it is good practice to stop charging below 50F

For using, down to 32 should not be bad.

The cells heat up a little when discharge.

You can pack them in a blanket and keep them warm with their own generated heat.

Small electric blanket can help also, or those sheets they have for reptile houses.

I would not use charcoal fire to close

Seriously, if it's Celcius..
Nothing to worry about.
If it's farhenheit ... Then the BMS should have stopped before 11F and not start charging at 14F !!!!

That freezing!

Sorry for the confusion. I wrote everything correctly. I was going off the images of both the bms app, and the usa weather report I was reading, and I forgot to translate f to c, but I did write everything correctly and accurately. That predicted 14°f means -10°c. That is a future forecast, btw. Not somethat had to do with the event that caused the LVD. I'll try compose my thoughts better in the future. I'm in Texas, btw. Born in the usa, but learning to use metrics like everyone else in the world.

 

[Frank in Thailand]

Usually I hear about warm / hot weather in Texas

A yurt must be cool
(Like in awesome)

Charging at low Amperage / wattages at the start of the morning light isn't a problem.
It possible slightly heats up the cells, but doesn't have any "kick" yet.

I'm sure you are good to go!!

The heating pads prevent for freezing, and the first light probably just powers the heating pads and other small electronic equipment you have on during the night.

I have 43 X 335 watt panels in Thailand.

At 07.00 they start making some power but it doesn't really do anything till 08.00 08.30.

Sure the panels are split over 3 units.
Maximal 18 (2*9) panels on one MPPT/hybrid.
It takes to 09.00 -09.30 before the energy production is higher then the standard consumption.

If you wonder if it does work, you can put some ice cubes in a glass with salt water.
That should be - enough to quickly trip the sensor.

Above 0 and slowly charging with a few watts, is usually not a problem.

Obviously, it does depend on the size of the battery.

With 16S 280Ah, 14 kWh battery pack, slowly gaining from 0 to 50 to 100 and up watts isn't a problem even if it's slightly frozen.

4S 50Ah, (640 wh) it will be
But then probably your panels quantity isn't large enough to make this in the early morning

 

[Just John]

Possible low temp disconnect failure. Ok. I've just installed a seedling warmer pad under my pack, and tucked my battery into a nice warm coat liner. When I got home tonight, I checked the app and it said the battery was at 4°c, but that the chrg MOS was still in the on position. In my parameters, it says the LTD is set to 5°c. Does this mean that the low temp cutoff has failed? Temps are just below freezing according to the internet. I don't have a reliable thermometer at the moment. But my seedling warmer has the pack up to 9°c now, so I guess I don't need to disconnect from my charge controller, right? If the sun comes out, it is usually before I get out of bed. Especially since I don't heat my yurt at night View attachment 36991

Well, it shows it faulted, not sure if it restarted? What is the low temp release? I know the default was something stupid like -40.

 

[Frank in Thailand]

Lol.
Chinese are funny that way.
Set per default the maximal or minimal settings and not a realistic value...

Who would ever let their LiFePO4 cells go to -40???
Or even charge all the way down to this temperature

There is some logic behind it.
Using absurd values one "forces" the end user to configure and not just plug in and expect all settings are right for their environment and system.

Even then...
It should not be possible to set below 0C (or 32F)

 

[Yurtdweller]

Lol.
Chinese are funny that way.
Set per default the maximal or minimal settings and not a realistic value...

Who would ever let their LiFePO4 cells go to -40???
Or even charge all the way down to this temperature

There is some logic behind it.
Using absurd values one "forces" the end user to configure and not just plug in and expect all settings are right for their environment and system.

Even then...
It should not be possible to set below 0C (or 32F)

I bought this pack prebuilt and preconfigured. Temp settings below. While the pack/bms seems to be well configured, it unfortunatly came with zero documentation, and the builder is lacking in support skills. It seems like a one-man, garage run operation. As I say, the pack seems well-built. Cells are well matched and balaced. This is a 100ah 4 cell pack running off an 800 w array. My seedling pad appears to have held the pack at 10°c all night, while drawing 20w(2.3a with inverter). I am not fully clear on interpreting the bms. Does anyone know of an online explaination for dummies? The builder, lynx batteries, out of washington state, has applied his own label to the individual cells. I do not know the precise specs or manufacturer for the cells, as that was not included in the listing, and though I have requested this info from the builder, it has not been forthcoming. His support responses can take days to arrive and are lacking. I was in a hurry, and took a risk with Lynx Batteries, but I bought thru Amazon, so considered the risk acceptable. If I have to get a new bms I can handle that. I just am not sure I am interpreting the readings correctly. I know the LTDC is set at 5°c, and builder told me he set it there so that in case of freeze/thaw it would guarantee that the inside of the pack was sufficiently warmed before charging. I am including an image of the temp parameters. Perhaps I am misintrerpreting the "Chg MOS"? I had assumed that this was a MOFSET switch position indicator, but perhaps I am wrong? It does open at HVDC. I expected it to also open at LTDC.

 

[Just John]

I bought this pack prebuilt and preconfigured. Temp settings below. While the pack/bms seems to be well configured, it unfortunatly came with zero documentation, and the builder is lacking in support skills. It seems like a one-man, garage run operation. As I say, the pack seems well-built. Cells are well matched and balaced. This is a 100ah 4 cell pack running off an 800 w array. My seedling pad appears to have held the pack at 10°c all night, while drawing 20w(2.3a with inverter). I am not fully clear on interpreting the bms. Does anyone know of an online explaination for dummies? The builder, lynx batteries, out of washington state, has applied his own label to the individual cells. I do not know the precise specs or manufacturer for the cells, as that was not included in the listing, and though I have requested this info from the builder, it has not been forthcoming. His support responses can take days to arrive and are lacking. I was in a hurry, and took a risk with Lynx Batteries, but I bought thru Amazon, so considered the risk acceptable. If I have to get a new bms I can handle that. I just am not sure I am interpreting the readings correctly. I know the LTDC is set at 5°c, and builder told me he set it there so that in case of freeze/thaw it would guarantee that the inside of the pack was sufficiently warmed before charging. I am including an image of the temp parameters. Perhaps I am misintrerpreting the "Chg MOS"? I had assumed that this was a MOFSET switch position indicator, but perhaps I am wrong? It does open at HVDC. I expected it to also open at LTDC.

That is a Daly BMS, except for mine came set at 47 for MOS protect. Easiest thing to do is put the temperature sensor in ice cold water while charging. It should stop allowing current into the battery. It shows that it stopped at least once. The current meter on my power supply drops to zero when tested like that, yours should too. I didn't look at the little switch when I tested mine, but I live in Phoenix, so I only tested it once. I have watched it turn on and off for the high cell voltage disconnect.

 

[Arve]

I have a new dyi battery pack here with the Daly 250A smart bms, I'm having some issues here where the bms shut down my charging because 1 cell is overvoltage before the other 3. Is this a bms balance issue? it doesnt seem to balance unless im in a charge mode, is that normal?
Can anyone share bms settings for me to check in the bluetooth app?

 

[Just John]

I have a new dyi battery pack here with the Daly 250A smart bms, I'm having some issues here where the bms shut down my charging because 1 cell is overvoltage before the other 3. Is this a bms balance issue? it doesnt seem to balance unless im in a charge mode, is that normal?
Can anyone share bms settings for me to check in the bluetooth app?

Did you top balance the cells? Since you hooked up the BMS and charged until high voltage cell disconnect, you are already close. What is the high voltage cell disconnect set to? The default settings on a Daly are certainly not what we would recommend, high voltage disconnect set to 3.65v, and low voltage disconnect set to 2.5v. I also recommend setting the temperature charging disconnect above zero, not the default of -40 degrees Celsius like Daly defaults to.

This is not a BMS balance issue, rather it is a "your cells are not balanced issue".

 

[Arve]

Did you top balance the cells? Since you hooked up the BMS and charged until high voltage cell disconnect, you are already close. What is the high voltage cell disconnect set to? The default settings on a Daly are certainly not what we would recommend, high voltage disconnect set to 3.65v, and low voltage disconnect set to 2.5v. I also recommend setting the temperature charging disconnect above zero, not the default of -40 degrees Celsius like Daly defaults to.

This is not a BMS balance issue, rather it is a "your cells are not balanced issue".

thanks for the info, bms is set at 3.65 high cutoff, 2.5 low cutoff, temp settings are ok, currently pack is on my office floor, so not really affected my temps. Prior to hooking my 8 cells into a 2p4s setup, they were all paralleled together and charged. I dont remember exactly what voltage I set that to, maybe I need to redo that part? thanks

 

[Arve]

thanks for the info, bms is set at 3.65 high cutoff, 2.5 low cutoff, temp settings are ok, currently pack is on my office floor, so not really affected my temps. Prior to hooking my 8 cells into a 2p4s setup, they were all paralleled together and charged. I dont remember exactly what voltage I set that to, maybe I need to redo that part? thanks

Did you top balance the cells? Since you hooked up the BMS and charged until high voltage cell disconnect, you are already close. What is the high voltage cell disconnect set to? The default settings on a Daly are certainly not what we would recommend, high voltage disconnect set to 3.65v, and low voltage disconnect set to 2.5v. I also recommend setting the temperature charging disconnect above zero, not the default of -40 degrees Celsius like Daly defaults to.

This is not a BMS balance issue, rather it is a "your cells are not balanced issue".

Also, should my Victron Smartshunt be hooked up before or after the BMS? thanks

 

[Just John]

thanks for the info, bms is set at 3.65 high cutoff, 2.5 low cutoff, temp settings are ok, currently pack is on my office floor, so not really affected my temps. Prior to hooking my 8 cells into a 2p4s setup, they were all paralleled together and charged. I dont remember exactly what voltage I set that to, maybe I need to redo that part? thanks

You will always have one cell that arrives at high voltage disconnect before the others. So if you did a top balance, I would not worry about it. The difference between 3.5v and 3.65v is under an amp hour.