diy solar

diy solar

DC Air Conditioner (minisplit/rooftop/anything)

These sleeper cab A/Cs are likely too small for an RV, unless it is one of those tiny canned hams, and that might still be a problem. These units would likely struggle to cool down a hot truck cab, but their use case is to run once the truck parks so they don't have to idle the engine to keep the cab cool. In most cases the cab is already cooled down after driving for several hours.
an RV is massively better insulated then a Truck cab. Still very poorly in general, but better.
My RV has 4 inches of foam in the roof. That's probably in the neighborhood of R16. While the Walls are built from foam - with around R7.

A truck is lots of metal with a R Value of close to Zero. The fiberglass section of the sleeper is probably around R2-4.

That's why a 25Ft RV is plenty of cool with 13.500 BTU A/C unit. You can buy those truck A/Cs up to 15.000 BTU. They sell those to Australia, those guys have 50 Celsius outside. That's 122 Fahrenheit.

I only have to cool from 90 to 78 fahrenheit to be comfortable and not from 120 to 78 - makes a huge difference.
 
From an electrical standpoint a 24 or 48 volt system would be much easier to implement in an existing RV. There is likely no way to use existing wire with the amps you would see in a 12 volt system. I suspect that even with 24 volts the microwave and a few others would need new wire. If your building/remodeling it's probably not a problem otherwise it's going to be a pain.
What are you talking about, rewiring the interior?

I'm 5 years in fulltime with system in sig @ 12v pulling fairly heavy loads (100- 200a), running microwave inverting 148a for 20+ minutes or using the 15k A/C unit for 3 hours inverting @ 138a +/-, off of batteries that already have 1,660 partial cycles of 35-45% DOD's. I've used an infrared thermometer checking wiring, connections with very little rise in temps from start to finish.
 
What are you talking about, rewiring the interior?

I'm 5 years in fulltime with system in sig @ 12v pulling fairly heavy loads (100- 200a), running microwave inverting 148a for 20+ minutes or using the 15k A/C unit for 3 hours inverting @ 138a +/-, off of batteries that already have 1,660 partial cycles of 35-45% DOD's. I've used an infrared thermometer checking wiring, connections with very little rise in temps from start to finish.
these are some substantial loads - which needs thick wiring. I don't like working north of 100A

You don't need to rewire the interior. Everything stays at 12V - just adding a parallel 24V system.
There will be I guess maximum of fife 24V appliances. (Fridge, A/C, Inverter, Microwave)

So for instance - instead @12V of having 110A running a DC Air condition, with probably 2 or 0 gauge wire- which already costs a fortune.
We can use 6 gauge wire. Which is available at any home improvement store for cheap.

Further - Lithium BMS don't like high discharge amps.

1622488969310.png
 
these are some substantial loads - which needs thick wiring. I don't like working north of 100A

You don't need to rewire the interior. Everything stays at 12V - just adding a parallel 24V system.
There will be I guess maximum of fife 24V appliances. (Fridge, A/C, Inverter, Microwave)

So for instance - instead @12V of having 110A running a DC Air condition, with probably 2 or 0 gauge wire- which already costs a fortune.
We can use 6 gauge wire. Which is available at any home improvement store for cheap.

Further - Lithium BMS don't like high discharge amps.

View attachment 51087
This is exactly what I was talking about. If your in a van/truck it's probably not a problem. If you have ever tried to fish a wire into the ceiling of an RV you will know what I mean.
I'm not trying to disagree or berate anyone here. Each has their own reasons for doing what they do. Just trying to give ideas for though. Sometimes what's on paper doesn't work very practical in the field.
 
Just got a email from Kingclima,

with all the datasheets from their 24V A/Cs. Pretty responsive.

It looks like the 3000, 3500 and 4000, should be able to fit through the standard 14x14 opening of RVs.
 

Attachments

  • Eclima3000 air conditioner - Kingclima.pdf
    503.3 KB · Views: 17
  • Eclima2200 air conditioner - Kingclima.pdf
    664.6 KB · Views: 7
  • Eclima4000(12V24V) - KINGCLIMA Industry(1).pdf
    334.1 KB · Views: 8
  • E-Clima3500 truck cab air conditioners.pdf
    249.4 KB · Views: 2
  • Eclima4000 Drawing.png
    Eclima4000 Drawing.png
    94.8 KB · Views: 10
  • Installation Drawing of Eclima3500.pdf
    65.1 KB · Views: 3
This is exactly what I was talking about. If your in a van/truck it's probably not a problem. If you have ever tried to fish a wire into the ceiling of an RV you will know what I mean.
I'm not trying to disagree or berate anyone here. Each has their own reasons for doing what they do. Just trying to give ideas for though. Sometimes what's on paper doesn't work very practical in the field.
yeah getting a thick cable up to the A/C will involve a lot of swearing. Not a chance with 12V

At my unit they've pulled the 3 conductor 12 gauge AC wire through a Pex tube - so I'm hoping that when I pull that out a can pull a 2 conductor 6 gauge in. To run 24V volts.
 
These sleeper cab A/Cs are likely too small for an RV, unless it is one of those tiny canned hams, and that might still be a problem. These units would likely struggle to cool down a hot truck cab, but their use case is to run once the truck parks so they don't have to idle the engine to keep the cab cool. In most cases the cab is already cooled down after driving for several hours.
The units are available over 13K btu. Easily replace roof air in an RV. That is about as large as you will find because it takes about 20 amps at 120V to run one, 15K btu are about the same. And more amps at startup unless it has a soft start.

It isn't always about temp but decreasing humidity.
 
That dc airco one looks sketchy. There are a few on ebay that might come from the us, but probably not. Honestly, I think getting them from the source is the only way to go right now.

I like the mini split wall mount vs. the ceiling mount. I think we can them cheaper than the treeger on amazon, even with the expensive shipping from China.

I have a portable 10k btu in my camper right now it it's more than enough for what I'm trying to do. I'm guessing I would be okay with a 6k btu.

I have seen tons of these on the back of trucks. I'm surprised we aren't finding more.


 
That dc airco one looks sketchy. There are a few on ebay that might come from the us, but probably not. Honestly, I think getting them from the source is the only way to go right now.

I like the mini split wall mount vs. the ceiling mount. I think we can them cheaper than the treeger on amazon, even with the expensive shipping from China.

I have a portable 10k btu in my camper right now it it's more than enough for what I'm trying to do. I'm guessing I would be okay with a 6k btu.

I have seen tons of these on the back of trucks. I'm surprised we aren't finding more.


While in general I love mini split - I got an RV with Air ducts in the ceiling. With a wall mounted Split Unit half of the RV would not be cooled.....
The KingClima roof units are only 8 inches tall. My current RV roof A/C unit is 14 inches tall.

For my old Van build project - Oh yeah I would take the split unit in a heartbeat.

$280 + shipping?


With a nice looking interior air handler.

Hm wonder if you can undermount the condenser, in the pictures they got them vertical on the wall or horizontal on the roof. I could just install two - one in the back with Condenser on the rear of the RV and one in the front with Condenser underneath - just remove one of the storage compartments and replace the door with grill.
Two zone A/C :p
 
I think DCAirco is mainly in a niche market for mining equipment and other commercial industries. It does appear they aren't interested in the retail DIY customer. I don't blame them, look at some of the issues you see in these forums with various posters having problems getting systems running or troubleshooting them.
 


Expensive:


Cheap:

These are all starting to look the same.


I bet the yellow one is the fastest though.

 


Expensive:


Cheap:

These are all starting to look the same.


I bet the yellow one is the fastest though.

There is probably a large factory now cranking out those things and multiple sellers are putting their spin on it. It's not like that a DC Air conditioner is anything fancy or high tech. The technology has been there for years. Ever since Toyota put a DC Compressor in their Prius a decade ago or so.
 
Prius uses high voltage for compressor power, big difference between 400V and 12V.

Basically, it seems they are adding an electric brushless motor to the end of an automotive scroll compressor. I'm wondering if the compressor is hermetically sealed.
 
Prius uses high voltage for compressor power, big difference between 400V and 12V.

Basically, it seems they are adding an electric brushless motor to the end of an automotive scroll compressor. I'm wondering if the compressor is hermetically sealed.
12V 24V feeds the control board (inverter) board - from there it goes 3 wire into the compressor.

you don't know what they are running between the controller and the compressor. Could be really anything, it will be more then 12V could be 200V for all we know.

1622805000068.png
 
I'll jump in OT, since the thread is.alive.
Some pointers to mobile a/c that can run off my gen, honda 2000/1700 surge.
Cargo trailer build .
600 watt inverter runs my fridge.
I'll light the gen for a/c, if required.
May hafta go ducted portable, but I despise them
 
12V 24V feeds the control board (inverter) board - from there it goes 3 wire into the compressor.

you don't know what they are running between the controller and the compressor. Could be really anything, it will be more then 12V could be 200V for all we know.
The info in this article is from MACS which is the Mobile Air Conditioning Society. MACS is the go to source for any information concerning mobile air Conditioning systems and provides instruction to the industry. https://aviondemand.com/insider/mastering-hybrid-hvac-systems-pt-1/

Early models used a belt driven compressor, that is not relevant. Skip to the part:

2004 – 2009 Generation II Prius – High Voltage AC A/C​


201V AC 3 phase power
 
Back
Top