Quattrohead
Emperor Of Solar
I can tell you that in my experience the Dihool breakers are substantially better than all the other brands on Amazon. Whether they are as good as Siemens or GE etc is up to you but I am trusting them in my system.
DC Circuit Breaker Fires
- Thread starter Jennifer
- Start date
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
You should spend a little more time in the Forums before you commit to that, but it's only money.
DPC
Canada, Great already
I'm going to take my phone into work and show you guys some of the breakers and the ugly conditions they work in.
I'll open up a westinghouse breaker take some photos so you can see what they look like inside and see how easy they are to work on.
Then if you happen to come across something like them you wont be afraid to bring it home and open it up and see what you have.
Like I said this stuff is so common and so cheap to free because there simply is not that big of a market for used parts.
Ebay is not a great place to buy used stuff like this unless you can bargain with the guy, get a breaker for 50 bucks or something.
I have had some incidents over the year with electrical equipment failing.
But it was never a breaker that let me down....
Exception is these
Cant trust them on 120 volt AC let alone DC
Ya not even any easy to find photos to show you guys....
Many years ago when a substation would require a rebuild because of a fire or floods ect.
I would strip all the breakers down wash them in soapy water dry and inspect the contracts..
grease them mechanism, put an appropriate trip unit ans shut in it and bench test them..
When I started to work for my employer no one was doing much of that except me.
I am probably the only guy left that will make a breaker out of parts, install, rewire a substation as required to add new breakers or new ground fault detection parts ect...
Its second nature to me...
Sure the new breakers are going electronic and I don't like or work on them because you cant see what you are dealing with.
But the older units are just fine to service.
People should not be afraid to take this apart and examine them to find out why they malfunction.
Just do not harm, don't force things or screw around with what you cant clearly understand..
Next week some photos and we can have a question and answer...
I'll open up a westinghouse breaker take some photos so you can see what they look like inside and see how easy they are to work on.
Then if you happen to come across something like them you wont be afraid to bring it home and open it up and see what you have.
Like I said this stuff is so common and so cheap to free because there simply is not that big of a market for used parts.
Ebay is not a great place to buy used stuff like this unless you can bargain with the guy, get a breaker for 50 bucks or something.
I have had some incidents over the year with electrical equipment failing.
But it was never a breaker that let me down....
Exception is these
Cant trust them on 120 volt AC let alone DC
Ya not even any easy to find photos to show you guys....
Many years ago when a substation would require a rebuild because of a fire or floods ect.
I would strip all the breakers down wash them in soapy water dry and inspect the contracts..
grease them mechanism, put an appropriate trip unit ans shut in it and bench test them..
When I started to work for my employer no one was doing much of that except me.
I am probably the only guy left that will make a breaker out of parts, install, rewire a substation as required to add new breakers or new ground fault detection parts ect...
Its second nature to me...
Sure the new breakers are going electronic and I don't like or work on them because you cant see what you are dealing with.
But the older units are just fine to service.
People should not be afraid to take this apart and examine them to find out why they malfunction.
Just do not harm, don't force things or screw around with what you cant clearly understand..
Next week some photos and we can have a question and answer...
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
Anatomy of a MCCB - this one was $36 on aliexpress
With the cover off.
The arc chutes, 1/2" wide and 1.25" tall
Where the arc chutes go.
Very good quality and I wouldn't hesitate to trust it as a switch.
Below are some additional brands
Top quality is TOMZN closely followed by TAIXI.... then the ZOII but it doesn't have lubricant at the moving points... and the BAOYI in a distant last place.... CHINTZ comes in below the TAIXI and TOMZN but higher than the ZOII
All of the ones I have in my possession are marked for line/load...
With the cover off.
The arc chutes, 1/2" wide and 1.25" tall
Where the arc chutes go.
Very good quality and I wouldn't hesitate to trust it as a switch.
Below are some additional brands
Top quality is TOMZN closely followed by TAIXI.... then the ZOII but it doesn't have lubricant at the moving points... and the BAOYI in a distant last place.... CHINTZ comes in below the TAIXI and TOMZN but higher than the ZOII
All of the ones I have in my possession are marked for line/load...
They are built very beefy with good sized contacts and springs. The cheap ones are missing lubricant at all the moving points.
The DIHOOL and TOMZN are lubricated and the seem to have better bolts for attaching the wires. The black TOMZN also have an extra shield plate for the arc arrestor. And are sold as 1000v.
The Taixi and Baoyi brand doesn't have any lubricant at all and the the fit of the case is less than perfect.
I would trust any of them as a switch and to carry the current. The DiH00l and Tomzn should work as a breaker as well. I don't think I would trust the non-lubricated version might not work so well after a while if there is any corrosion where the moving parts come together.
DPC
Canada, Great already
Little F breaker
Not much to see.
If this guy had of been more thoughtful about he video he would have pulled the arc shoot out and trip unit did a complete inspection for the video and then put in the shunt and tested it.
I always test the trip unit with my finger before I add the shunt.
I only test the breaker when completely assembled so I know everything is right inside..
A K breaker or larger is nice because you can more easily see things.
You should always inspect the contacts, clean all the parts put a little dielectric grease on the moving parts..
Check to see the lug connections are tight and the appropriate size for the wire to be used.
Ya you can change lugs in the field even in the panel but if you do it all on the bench then you are not going to struggle in the field.
duckduckgo.com
Not much to see.
If this guy had of been more thoughtful about he video he would have pulled the arc shoot out and trip unit did a complete inspection for the video and then put in the shunt and tested it.
I always test the trip unit with my finger before I add the shunt.
I only test the breaker when completely assembled so I know everything is right inside..
A K breaker or larger is nice because you can more easily see things.
You should always inspect the contacts, clean all the parts put a little dielectric grease on the moving parts..
Check to see the lug connections are tight and the appropriate size for the wire to be used.
Ya you can change lugs in the field even in the panel but if you do it all on the bench then you are not going to struggle in the field.
how to install a shunt trip on a cutler hammer breaker at DuckDuckGo
DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.
DPC
Canada, Great already
That sure looks like a westinhouse unit.Anatomy of a MCCB - this one was $36 on aliexpress
With the cover off.
The arc chutes, 1/2" wide and 1.25" tall
Where the arc chutes go.
Very good quality and I wouldn't hesitate to trust it as a switch.
Below are some additional brands
Top quality is TOMZN closely followed by TAIXI.... then the ZOII but it doesn't have lubricant at the moving points... and the BAOYI in a distant last place.... CHINTZ comes in below the TAIXI and TOMZN but higher than the ZOII
All of the ones I have in my possession are marked for line/load...
They are built very beefy with good sized contacts and springs. The cheap ones are missing lubricant at all the moving points.
The DIHOOL and TOMZN are lubricated and the seem to have better bolts for attaching the wires. The black TOMZN also have an extra shield plate for the arc arrestor. And are sold as 1000v.
The Taixi and Baoyi brand doesn't have any lubricant at all and the the fit of the case is less than perfect.
I would trust any of them as a switch and to carry the current. The DiH00l and Tomzn should work as a breaker as well. I don't think I would trust the non-lubricated version might not work so well after a while if there is any corrosion where the moving parts come together.
The paddle is different but at first glance I would not have guessed it was a Chinese knock off
Denidil
New Member
or you could just tell me what you think the problem with it is instead of just making vague and meaningless statements
edit: are you worried about total load? my critical loads panel averages around 1-1kW of usage. much of which can be shed if needed. dual multiplus-II 3000s gives 3kW for each leg.
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ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
I could but that would take the fun out of it. Seriously, putting 12v batteries in series with independent BMS's is sub-optimal. Just get a rack unit for similar money.
Denidil
New Member
again, name the problem. the manufacturer supports running these in series, sells a battery balancer for them. they support up to 4P4S arrays for them.
the rackmount batteries cost 25-50% more per kWh and gain my nothing since it's a portable system that i don't need to worry about fixed system UL standards for.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
The problem is keeping the 4 batteries in series balanced. What will happen is they will drift due to internal resistance and over time one will go into protection mode before the others and you will loose all power from the string until you wake up the one in protection.
You can use an active equalizer to try and keep them in balance or every few months you will have to take the string apart and charge them in parallel at 14.4v for a day.
It is ALWAYS much preferred to have a single battery of the correct voltage verse putting them in series to get it.
You can use an active equalizer to try and keep them in balance or every few months you will have to take the string apart and charge them in parallel at 14.4v for a day.
It is ALWAYS much preferred to have a single battery of the correct voltage verse putting them in series to get it.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Since you are going open loop off the shelf cheapo, $699. 5KWh. If you just want to DIY, build out 16 prismatics
EVE LF105 Grade A Cells - 3.2V LiFePO4 105Ah Battery
Shop the brand new EVE LF105 Grade A Cells - 105Ah LiFePO4 Battery for reliable and long-lasting power. Available now with fast shipping. Order today!
www.18650batterystore.com
$35/ea, $560 + $100 for a 16s 100A BMS. You can even close the loop if you match things up on protocols.
So you are buying a high-end Victron "Euro-trash" (giggle
) inverter, but you are going to cheap out on the batteries? What you are looking at is not going to scale that well, but if you are just experimenting it will all work.I'd experiment with less expensive gear, but it should be fun either way. Enjoy!
Denidil
New Member
i said in the post before yours that LiTime sells a balancer for that purpose.
Denidil
New Member
So you are buying a high-end Victron "Euro-trash" (giggle
Will has tested these batteries on his youtube repeatedly. they're good value, but not "cheap"
RV8R
Solar Addict
I’m a long term novice with 12vdc 
Like @DPC I have worked on Substations, but in the capacity of a General Contractor (You Know - Jack of All Trades but Master of None). I like what @DPC has posted here about breakers & tend to believe him & want to know more about the robust olde Skool stuff.
I use on my 12vdc systems;
fuses for circuits protection & AIC off batteries
Switches to disconnect (& try to follow zero or minimal loads prior to shutting off)
Why
? ,,, mostly because of voltage drop. My 12vdc experience (mostly in aircraft) has me to believe there is more chance of a breaker creating resistance in the circuit than a fuse & switch. So I attempt to dial out problems ,,, not saying it is right, but is has worked well for my low voltage Van & Cabin systems . In airplanes, we don’t really have a choice & it is mostly breakers
Like @DPC I have worked on Substations, but in the capacity of a General Contractor (You Know - Jack of All Trades but Master of None). I like what @DPC has posted here about breakers & tend to believe him & want to know more about the robust olde Skool stuff.
I use on my 12vdc systems;
fuses for circuits protection & AIC off batteries
Switches to disconnect (& try to follow zero or minimal loads prior to shutting off)
Why
? ,,, mostly because of voltage drop. My 12vdc experience (mostly in aircraft) has me to believe there is more chance of a breaker creating resistance in the circuit than a fuse & switch. So I attempt to dial out problems ,,, not saying it is right, but is has worked well for my low voltage Van & Cabin systems . In airplanes, we don’t really have a choice & it is mostly breakers
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Denidil
New Member
Hey @Denidil
Just because the manufacturer says it can be done doesn’t make it best practice.
IMO best practice is as simple as you can make it for your given budget & use.
Adding a balancer adds complication, thus less simple
Less is More
Less for more $ is less for more $
Running strings and parallel arrays is an entirely standard setup in portable setups like RVs.
Nobody has actually given any reason why standard practice is wrong except vague statements that don't name any actual problems. Will has reviewed these batteries, this is a standard way of setting things up in RVs - to the point where there are dudes with almost 8kW of solar panels on their RVs, with 30-60kWh of batteries, EV chargers off their RVs, etc.
That includes professional installers doing this.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
RV is a different game, Victron is probably a better option, their stuff is compact and durable, but I'd still do a rack battery. We are drifting way off topic for this thread.
Denidil
New Member
We are totally off topic now
but running a critical loads panel on a temporary basis is not really that different.
RV8R
Solar Addict
Well; Go With What You Believe In
You have to educate yourself to the best of your ability & choose what is best for you.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
ricardocello
Watching and Learning
As long as they have an AC rating physically printed on them, something like ~240V or ~480V, no downside.
Except you could probably get an AC breaker much more easily at lower cost.
You should check the trip curve (B or C) to be sure it trips when necessary.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
for those of us who haven't really dealt with trip curves
And I gathered together a bunch on the various curves - more details
Breaker trip curves and what they mean
and
www.linkedin.com
And I gathered together a bunch on the various curves - more details
Breaker trip curves and what they mean
and
Circuit breakers curves
Circuit breakers are critical components of electrical systems. They are designed to protect electrical equipment from damage due to overcurrent or short circuits.
www.linkedin.com
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