JonMez
Solar Enthusiast
$211 on eBay right now!
I let mine run for like a day once. It was doing the fan on the furnace, which is about 800 W plus the garage fridge which goes on and off for about 150w. Guess I’ll have to try the kettle test. Actually, I think I let it charge the EV for a while which is ~1400w ish on the battery side. I’ll have to double check. I know the fan was cycling and it wasn’t quiet, but it was also not offensive.I'm finally putting the DC House inverter/charger through it's paces with the EW stackable 48v 50ah. Not positive results so far. After charging for about 20 minutes it went into "fault condition" for over temperature. After cooling for a few minutes, it would clear & start back charging. Decided to take the cover off & check temperatures of various components. The largest of the transformers was over the 311F my thermal imager captures. A couple of the MOSFETs connected to the main heat sink were right around 300F. Even with fans running continuously and the cover off, it would still go into over temperature fault.
After I finished charging with the bench power supply, the inverter/charger had cooled enough to be operable. I hooked up a heat gun at 1425w, and let it run for 20 minutes. I thermal imaged the same components as I did when charging. They were 80-100 F cooler than they were when charging. Anyone have an explanation for that big a difference?
This can't be good, that can't be operating properly I hope. I'd contact them. Getting that hot without the overheating protection kicking in is nuts in its own right. Is the input voltage and waveform ok? Can you independently check the thermometer reading somehow?largest of the transformers was over the 311F my thermal imager captures.
Input voltage today was from the grid, so it was fine. The kill-a-watt had it at around 118v. After running in inverter mode without issues, I tried charging again. It would charge for several minutes, go into fault, then cycle back on. After a few cycles, it stayed in "fault" until I removed all power - battery & ac. It would then charge for a couple minutes before going back to "fault". Interestingly, it wasn't running near as hot while charging this time around, it just wouldn't stay on.This can't be good, that can't be operating properly I hope. I'd contact them. Getting that hot without the overheating protection kicking in is nuts in its own right. Is the input voltage and waveform ok? Can you independently check the thermometer reading somehow?


I've used my replacement inverter/charger for a significant amount of time @ a load of about 1700w. It does not run hot like the 1st one did. The "hard wired" AC out outlet does not have a strong physical connection to the unit. When unplugging the extension cord yesterday, the outlet pulled out of the unit. I'd recommend using the 2nd AC out that you have to hard wire yourself.confirmed that the 120v outlet is indeed wired backwards.
This could be dangerous in the wrong situation.
Warning: the terminals are weak and very stubborn,take care swapping those 2.
I think I'm going to update the 14awg that goes to both "AC out" to something a little larger.more inverter porn
Im installing a remote on/off switch since this unit will be under the seat
I already bought 1/2" cable glands to accomplish this and am adding a duplex receptacle to the output cord.I think I'm going to update the 14awg that goes to both "AC out" to something a little larger.
I used 12/3 as well. I had to use a knife to scrape out & "enlarge" the opening to the gland to get it to fit. I know exactly what you mean about the grounds. Very difficult to make that 90 deg turn after adding a ring terminal. I didn't need a larger screw with the ring terminal.I went to Skycraft yday and bought some 12/3 SJ.
It barely fit in the supplied cable glands.
What was tougher was working with a larger gauge wire,especially the grounds.
Give yourself about 4-6 inches of green so you can loop the wire.
remove the 2 phillips screws holding the terminal block for ease of terminating.
You will need a longer screw for the grounds to fit 2 #12 terminals.
Hi, thank you for raising this. We recently found that a small batch of units may have the live and neutral wires misconnected internally, which could cause safety concerns.I sent a description, with pictures, to DC House on the reverse polarity wiring of the "AC out" outlet. Below is a screenshot of their response.
View attachment 305837
I have not.Has anyone else received an email from DC House regarding purchase of miswired unit?