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DC Solar Trailer - LBM questions (newbie)

I have a dc solar trailer the batteries are the problem, after refilling with water, and charging with around 10,000 watts, then discharging as quick as possible, the batteries have improved, supposedly repeating that cycle will make them stronger
I hooked up the sunnyboy islands with the 240 volt/50 amp plug to the grid. Then you can use them to charge the batteries. I tried that multiple times but no matter what, my capacity never increased and stayed below 10% == unusable. both the SB islands & the midnight solar CC will report that the battery is in float mode ( == should be fully charged) but when i do a controlled drain, is still get less than 10% of the supposed capacity from the batteries. For me, it has been a great disappointment so far.
 
Did you put water in them? and how many amps for charging?
Sure, first thing you do with batteries (if possible) is check water level and fill up with distilled water.
The level in my batteries wasn't too far off.
I used the settings of the 2 SB islands to charge the batteries. If I remember correctly, they used 30 amps from 240 volt so about 7kW meaning it was charging the batteries (in parallel) with about 150 amps so 75 amps per battery.
 
I'm no battery expert but roughly 3.12 amps per cell seems very low. when I charged mine they were stinking a lot, it burned my eyes within 10' of the trailer
 
48 cells total, between the 2 batteries
when you put 75 amps @ 48 volt into 24 cells in series you still put 75 amps @ 2 volt through each cell.
In my case the SB islands were putting 150 amps into 2 batteries in parallel. could be that one battery was getting 90 amps and the other battery 60 amps and thus _per cell_.
 
Can anyone tell me the size of the WHEEL (not tire) .. but wheel that this has .... we know its a 6 lug 15" but cannot find if its 5 or 5.5 or 6 on centre .... one of our contractors has this trailer and it blew out a tire but we need to send him both tire and wheel since he is 100 miles from civilization ... thx ...
 
Great, we do have a lot of land to fill. 5 acres.
nice , thanks for the lead on the panels! They have lots of selection.
we have this .... do we need another one for 10 more panels of 240w?
If you have 10 of those panels, you only have 2400W of PV

My math says that controller can charge a 48V bank with 3100 watts max, so 13 panels in use, probably ok to overpanel that controller 16 or so panels. I would think 5S3p would be safe as well AZ winter nights get chilly, figure -9C unless you live on a mountain… so 33% increase or 49.1v so 5S max… Get the most out of the long sunny days in. AZ…
 
I'm 130 miles from mine or I would check, the carson trailer site says the 10k trailer wheel is 16" 8 on 6.5 https://carsontrailersales.com/inventory/utility+trailers/2021-carson-hd16-2+tandem+axle+16'+10k+gvwr+brakes+both+axles-eaton-co-5a2817ca41fef84e70205d44/ I don't think that's right it's a 6 lug wheel The most common size is 16" 6 on 5.5
I think that's what it is
Tire says 15"
6 lugs
and I measure 5.5" from center to center of 2 opposite bolts
IMG_20210731_102226954.jpg
left side of tape measure was at center of bolt when you looked directly above it ;-)
Always that distortion..
 
faq167-wheel-bolt-pattern_2_500.jpg


https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheel-bolt-pattern.aspx
 
so we changed out all the older 235W solar panels that came on the trailers with JA-355W .. perfect fit width wise .... its slightly top heavy now but thats fine ... but definitely takes 2 ppl instead of 1 to deploy the panels .... We get the JA-355W out of a wholesaler in Dallas for $100
 
so we changed out all the older 235W solar panels that came on the trailers with JA-355W .. perfect fit width wise .... its slightly top heavy now but thats fine ... but definitely takes 2 ppl instead of 1 to deploy the panels .... We get the JA-355W out of a wholesaler in Dallas for $100
Are you still using the same charge controller ? Since you upped the 2350 Watt DC -> 3550 Watt (+50%) I have to assume you did something to the CC as well
 
Hello,

we are new to solar and SMA doesnt want to help bc we arent techs and the techs are too expensive and have came out twice and have not helped us with the problem.

we bought a DC solar trailer
It has the sunny island the master and slave
The midnight classic inverter
They look like the forklift batteries
And solar panels

the problem: it goes in to Low Battery Preservation mode every night at the same time and it goes in to a cycle of shutting down the loads every 10 minutes.

the batteries say they are full and it still goes into this LBM sometimes level 1 (most of the time) and sometimes level 2.

we do not have a generator connected to it. Is this why? Do I need one for completely off grid. Also I need it to run 100% of the time as that is our only source of energy, can I shut the LBM off or have the batteries release the energy without cutting the load or what do I do ?
Help?
Thanks in advance
What area are you in? Do you know what your average hours of daylight is for your location?
The SMA inverters can be programmed for generator functions.. There is a setting on the Master inverter that tells the generator when to kick on and charge the batteries.. You say the batteries are full when this LBM happens. What percentage are the batteries? 100%? Can you see what the master inverter says the battery level is at?
Do you have a single line diagram
 
Great, we do have a lot of land to fill. 5 acres.
nice , thanks for the lead on the panels! They have lots of selection.
we have this .... do we need another one for 10 more panels of 240w?

Rather than using more Midnight Classic charge controllers, to add panels to a Sunny Island system I suggest using Sunny Boy or other AC couple grid-tie PV inverters. If other brands than SMA, the inverters need to do "Frequency-Watts", which means they reduce power output as frequency increases.

What this will do is let Sunny Island control battery charge current to precisely what you have programmed. Your FLA batteries want a particular charge current, which helps by stirring the electrolyte. Look it up in their technical manual, but let's assume that is 0.12C:
You have two, 540 Ah batteries for 1080 Ah total. 0.12C = 130A. 130A x 50Vbat = 6500W
You'll need about 6500W just to charge batteries at this rate.

A good size system would have at least 10kW of PV. Up to 24 kW is suitable for 2x Si 6048US. For instance, three of the new model SB 7.7, or some quantity of older models. Set them for "off-grid" or "Island".


When additional power is available beyond the 6500W needed to charge at 0.12C (or when battery is near full and in absorption charge mode), Sunny Island will raise frequency above 60 Hz. Between 61 Hz and 62 Hz, Sunny Boy will linearly reduce power output from 100% to 0%. Frequency will hover between those points, so Sunny Boy will deliver exactly the power needed for battery charging plus your loads. The ramp up/down takes a few seconds when loads vary, and Sunny Island makes up the difference by momentarily sourcing/sinking power from battery.

With Midnight Classic also providing charge, Sunny Island needs to know how much it contributed, in order to manage battery SoC. I've been told these DC Solar trailers have a battery shunt. Connect that to master Sunny Island if not already connected (2-wire sense leads.) I think Midnight's negative battery cable need to go to Sunny Island side of shunt, not battery side. When Sunny Island charges battery, it also sees its own current measured by the shunt and knows not to double-count. When Midnight charges battery, Sunny Island sees measurement from shunt.

(Apparently, if a system also has data link from Midnight to Sunny Island, in that case Midnight must connect to battery side of shunt. Sunny Island learns of Midnight's current from data link, so shouldn't also see it measured by shunt.)

You can over-panel both Midnight and Sunny Boy to about 140% by having multiple PV strings, half oriented different from the other half. For instance, one string aimed at 10:00 AM sun and another string 4:00 PM sun. This gives more hours of charging with 70% as high a peak current as all oriented same way.

If you use a lithium battery, it will typically accept charge rate up to 0.5C, but only within a temperature range around 25 degrees C. Lithium battery will work best with a BMS that talks to Sunny Island such as REC. If your PV is capable of more than 0.5C, using AC coupling lets Sunny Island limit charge current, but makes the additional power available for AC loads.

If temperature gets cold, BMS should prevent charging below freezing. But even at temperatures like 5 or 10 degrees C, maximum allowed charge rate is reduced; 0.5C would cause damage. Programming a charge rate like 0.15C and setting BMS low temperature disconnect around 10 degrees C could be suitable to protect battery.
 
540 Ah x 50V x 2 batteries = 54 kWh (if batteries are good, still have original capacity)
Most nights, you might consume 13.5 kWh, 25% DoD. In new condition, these batteries ought to give 10 years service cycling nightly.
They could be drawn down 70% or 80% DoD on occasion, when there isn't much sun. As forklift batteries, they were designed for that kind of use daily (but with a shorter life.)

My own system has 20 kWh of AGM, and I draw up to 14 kWh overnight (70% DoD) but only meant for grid failures so likely not even 100 cycles in a decade.

Obviously, adding distilled water as needed and charging fully at proper charge rate is the first thing the batteries on the DC Solar trailer need.
Then after checking specific gravity, may need equalization. That may require the generator, unless your PV is sufficient. Two batteries in parallel, so could disconnect one while equalizing the other if convenient with the amount of PV available.
 
540 Ah x 50V x 2 batteries = 54 kWh (if batteries are good, still have original capacity)
Of the 6 DC solar trailers i have inspected so far, none of them were even any ware decent with the battery.
My own trailer I can draw about 6 kWh before a few cells go almost to zero and force a low battery situation.

If anyone knows a good & reasonable priced address in the LA area that exchanges fork lift batteries, let me know.

I like your idea of AC coupled extra inverter. I never thought of charging the batteries that way.
Rule21 is good for something it seems ;-)
 


Based off the link above (shown below) you could run two more panels on your current setup if you rewired the panels (Edit Based off your combiner box picture is looks like 2 Series, 5 Parallel right now). I might even risk running 3S5P if you could face each string in a different direction (South East, South, South West). That way you would a longer solar day, but not all the panels would be producing at the same time to keep you under the 2880w limit.

Otherwise, yes you would need another controller to use 10 more panels.

View attachment 57139
I also purchased a DC solar trailer. It has all new panels = 3950w. Problem is Midnight Solar controller only shows 2000 watts (I think that was original set up). I have not had any luck getting it to register the 3950k. After seeing this screen shot I was thinking maybe my problem is with the Midnite 250? Any suggestions??
 
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