This is the final video in the series.Can you confirm or correct what I have found after researching this topic?
Main (grid) panel, has G/N bond. Each sub panel must not be bonded.
Separate power source panels, a generator load distribution panel, for instance, should have G/N bond. And a solar inverter is the same, so a separate ground rod, with a G/N bond at the primary distribution panel.
This is what I found from NEC discussions on the topic, I am not stating as fact, just observation. What do you think?
I love your circuit design btw, planning to copy it.
Here is a supplier of listed isolation transformersHere's the first suitable match I found on eBay.
2x 240V primary windings, 2x 120V secondary windings, 3000VA.
However, I'm not sure secondary windings in series for 120/240V split-phase could deliver 3000VA at 120V. Certainly at least 1500VA.
If secondary windings are put in parallel it will deliver 3000VA at 120V only, no isolated 240V.
Maybe look for 6000VA if you want to load with 3000VA 120V one moment, 3000VA 240V the next.
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This is a fantastic video.I didn’t see this gentleman’s project posted, but it’s how I would do it if I were using it with a grid feed-through:
https://ebay.to/3IkxwMl
I own a farm with two houses, the primary house ran with an old MPP48PIP inverter charger which is similar to the Growatt and my solution for this problem was to use the AC in for battery charging only and divert external AC supply via MBB breaker. This worked very well until we were flooded this February. After spending a little time I found the product that takes care of everything and that was a Victron MultiplusII with built in charge controller. Now my generator starts automatically and the power transfer is done completely by the Multiplus II itself.I was trying to get this very question answered by the people at Signature Solar just this past week. The person I emailed back and forth with was unhelpful and never answered my question about how to wire AC in for the on-grid scenario.
One way I think you could do this is to wire grid power directly into the inverter (AC in) and then wire the inverter (AC out) to the breaker panel (attached to a circuit breaker), where the transformer also would be wired (attached to its own circuit breaker). That is, put the inverter in between the meter and the main breaker panel. The problem with this approach is that the inverter likely is not big enough to run all the circuits on the house.
If you figure this out, I hope you will post it here as I would love to know how to do it with a sub-panel.
Isolation transformer is probably the way to go. The content in this thread is for people looking for the cheapest possible solution and mainly to fully answer the OP's question.I didn’t see this gentleman’s project posted, but it’s how I would do it if I were using it with a grid feed-through:
https://ebay.to/3IkxwMl
I don't know what temp it should be set at, but I would love to see your design for the thermal protection part of this setup. !!! Way to goI have two of the growatt auto transformers. I built the control cabinet automatikdonn posted here, with a few tweaks, and I added over temp protection. Does anyone know what temp I should set the controller to? What is too hot?
It was pointed out by the NCSolar guy that the entire load goes THROUGH an isolation transformer and only the IMBALANCE between the two 120VAC phases goes THROUGH the auto transformer. Huge difference in the demand (and heating) of whichever transformer. If the two phases are balance there should be 'no' heating inside the auto transformer.Having thought through the whole Auto-Transformer thing A LOT, I've come up with what I think is the best, and KISS, solution:
Don't use an auto-transformer. Use an isolation transformer. Take in 240V from L1/L2 of the inverter and convert to isolated 120/240V split-phase. Bond the center-tap (neutral) to ground, same ground as main panel. Transformer VA rating must be sufficient for full inverter output and full pass-through from grid. It just works.
I haven't read through all pages and all 261 previous posts of this thread, just some pages. But I did all of a couple other threads on the topic, and found multiple safety and equipment hazards.
I may yet add an auto-transformer to my system, but for other purposes. Not to establish a neutral; the inverters are stacked 120V each. Auto-transformer would be for load balancing, and to create missing phase if all inverters except one master area allowed to sleep for power savings. It would be disconnected when on-grid.
I have a defective 3KW isolation transformer with a low 95VAC output (other half good 115VAC) with grid 220VAC as input 1->1 connected. I am using the two split windings PRIMARY as an auto-transformer. So far for low single loads and two at a time (fridge, freezer, 1/2HP water pump) it is working well. Might try the coffee maker later. That is an emergency device for sure. My EAsun 3.6KW only produces 230 (or 240) floating output. The transformer split is nice 115VAC (or 120) My clampon meter is not accurate enough for good current data.Yes, auto-transformer is the low-loss way to support a bit of 120V load, without much loss when it isn't doing anything for a 240V load.
But, we've figured out major issues with using auto-transformer for 240V inverter that is also fed from grid. Those can be avoided, and some manufacturers have figured it out, but not all.
In other news, I've discovered driving the secondary windings of a transformer doesn't always work well. Armed with that knowledge, I can do a better job of repurposing an isolation step-down transformer as an auto-transformer. But I'm going to have to work harder to get step-up working right.
3-Phase SMA Sunny Island (15kW) + Sunny TriPower (30kW)
Showing a work-in-progress assembling 3-phase SMA system. 3x SI-5048-US are configured for 3-phase and produce 120/208Y, rated 15 kW continuous. Sunny TriPower 30000TL-US-10 is 480V delta (or 277/480Y), rated 30 kW. TriPower combiner box will be used, but for now just one string being connected...diysolarforum.com
I cut one into the face of my control cabinet. Highest temp I have seen was maybe 92 degrees F, most of the time it is 85 or less. This is installed in my basement where it is about 55 to 65 degrees F. I used a Dwyer TSS2, is a dual temp as I have 2 auto transformers, or a single temp is TS2.Has one found a din rail mounted temp sensor yet? I have been looking and turning up with a zero.
I plan to do some space heater based testing of the auto transformers to see what they do, what temps they get to, etc.
I also wanted to point out these two NEC sections - the TLDR is you *must* connect your autotransformer to the grid neutral if you have a grid supply in passthrough mode.
210.9 Circuits Derived From Autotransformers
Branch circuits shall not be derived from autotransformers unless the circuit supplied has a grounded conductor that is electrically connected to a grounded conductor of the system supplying the autotransformer.
215.11 Circuits Derived From Autotransformers
Feeders shall not be derived from autotransformers unless the system supplied has a grounded conductor that is electrically connected to a grounded conductor of the system supplying the autotransformer.