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diy solar

diy solar

Designing away corrosion.

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Nov 18, 2021
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34
Hey folks.

I live on a solar powered ev swapped boat.

my batteries have lead inset terminals, that take steel bolts, which carry lead ring terminals - that are crimped onto copper wires.

I have to fully replace every ring and bolt every 6 weeks, due to the devils green paste/powder ruining my life.

I am currently designing/speccing my next bank, and want to rid myself of this nuisance problem.

if I'm married to copper wires, and lead inset terminals - what is the galvinic solution to this, or what is a functional work around? Sacrificial anode somewhere?

I figured lead insets+lead rings would work on titanium bolts (after consulting a handy googled chart) - but that leaves me crimping lead onto copper, and with much the same problem as I have currently.

To understand the scale of the issue, a new m8 bolt will 100% disintegrate where it protrudes, and I always have to drill a little hole and tap an ez out in. Within 6 weeks.

I know everyone uses aluminum bars, but on the chart that doesn't look like it'll cut it.

Someone, please tell me what im brainfarting.

Thanks in advance.

Yours truly,

Someone who can't rub his eyes rn, and is out of beer.
 

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... nvm im clearly space casing tonight.

Proposed solution:

Use copper crimp on rings, aluminum bars, and don't let the copper touch the lead inset.

Lol. Someone beer me, it's clearly time.
 
Have you installed your batteries under sea water if the bolts and terminals disappear in just 6 weeks? :oops:

Some environmental protection might be good idea. Also possible that your battery terminals are not 100% leakproof and leaking battery acid.
 
You should consult with a marine power specialist. There are galvanically isolated components for marine situations like this. You don't say where you are, but PKYS in Maryland is one marine installer I am familiar with that could probably tell you where to look for your problem.
 
Until I found a solution I would cover every connection using the prior mentioned terminal protector spray can. Or use grease or fluid film to keep the salt air moisture from coming into contact with exposed metal.
 
Step one is to use tin plated stranded wire, terminals, bus bars, etc.

Stainless bolts instead of steel ones.

Marine work does require more sophisticated isolation than land based systems, or it can end up dissolving the boat as well.
 
To understand the scale of the issue, a new m8 bolt will 100% disintegrate where it protrudes, and I always have to drill a little hole and tap an ez out in. Within 6 weeks.
Zinc plated hardware are terrible for galvanic corrosion. Then without zinc protection, steel corrode fairly fast in marine environment.
But your real problem is salty air. The only solution is to keep air out from the equation.
Put No-Ox-Id grease at contacts and corrosion will take way more time.
 
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Hey folks.

I live on a solar powered ev swapped boat.

my batteries have lead inset terminals, that take steel bolts, which carry lead ring terminals - that are crimped onto copper wires.
Okay, I am fairly new to saltwater boating, so I am gonna follow this thread.

Sacrificial anode somewhere?
Didn't you just answered your own question??
 
Only solution is to keep the salt water out of the joint, or at least attempt to do so.

I would be looking at heavy grease especially formulated for boat trailer wheel bearings.
Wheel bearings see repeated full immersion in salt water and the grease has to be effective both as a lubricant and corrosion inhibitor at high operating temperatures, and not break down over time. Its good stuff !

Use plenty of grease, then place a plastic cap or cover over it, mainly to keep the grease in place without creating a giant greasy mess.
 
Hey folks.

I live on a solar powered ev swapped boat.

my batteries have lead inset terminals, that take steel bolts, which carry lead ring terminals - that are crimped onto copper wires.

I have to fully replace every ring and bolt every 6 weeks, due to the devils green paste/powder ruining my life.

I am currently designing/speccing my next bank, and want to rid myself of this nuisance problem.

if I'm married to copper wires, and lead inset terminals - what is the galvinic solution to this, or what is a functional work around? Sacrificial anode somewhere?

I figured lead insets+lead rings would work on titanium bolts (after consulting a handy googled chart) - but that leaves me crimping lead onto copper, and with much the same problem as I have currently.

To understand the scale of the issue, a new m8 bolt will 100% disintegrate where it protrudes, and I always have to drill a little hole and tap an ez out in. Within 6 weeks.

I know everyone uses aluminum bars, but on the chart that doesn't look like it'll cut it.

Someone, please tell me what im brainfarting.

Thanks in advance.

Yours truly,

Someone who can't rub his eyes rn, and is out of beer.
You may want to read this: https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/fighting-off-marine-electrical-system-corrosion
edit: I have no affiliation to this site
 
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This isn't rocket science. I m not sure what batteries you have, but marine batteries don't have lead terminals. So if you are spacing your next bank, start there, get proper batteries. Get rid of the lead ring terminals, those should be tin plated copper. and you can also use copper screws. Where dissimilar metals must touch, use tef-gel.

Also lead acid batteries will off gas, and that gas is highly corrosive. If you are over charging your batteries that might be part of your problem.
 

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