• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

Designing my second electric sailboat - Brainstorming

Andre Flocks

New Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2024
Messages
7
Location
Seattle (WA)
I am in the process of designing my second electric sailboat!

My first project was done about 3 years ago, a byproduct of COVID season. I converted a 25 feet sailboat to electric power. I am not an electrician, I have learned everything I know through online research and trial and error.
On that first project, I decided to build my own batteries using 280 AmpH EVE prismatic cells. The boat had an electric Outboard motor powered by a 48V battery bank (with 16 cells in Series) with an Overkill Solar BMS. Using the same type of cells I also built 2 additional 12V banks also with Overkill Solar BMS that were connected in parallel (560 AmpH). I used the 12V system to run everything else on the boat (Lights, Amplifiers for Speakers and Subwoofer, a small fridge and a Renogy 3000W inverter).
That setup served me well and was appropriate for the size of the boat and for the use I made of it. I live on a Floating home on a lake and the sailboat is docked to the house. I use it often just to motor around the lake, but sometimes I venture further to explore other lakes or even out to sea and don't always have a chance to put up the sails for some or all of my route. Bottom line, with this setup on my first boat, I had an autonomy of about 7 hours at "full throttle", and that felt like the right amount.

Meanwhile, I bought a bigger boat! :)


I have bought a Catalina 30 Sailboat, which is a bit longer, but much wider. This makes it a much more robust boat, with potential for new adventures. My first step, naturally, is to remove the 25Hp Diesel engine that it has and install an electric motor and some batteries instead. This boat has an inboard motor connected to a shaft. There are several electric motors available in the market for this sort of application and after some research, I know I am most likely to purchase a 15Kw motor for my application. I think that the only spec worth calling out is that a motor like this will need to draw 300A continuous when operating at full throttle, which is important to keep in mind when deciding on the battery setup.

My initial plan was to build my own batteries again. But as I did some research I found that there are new options in the market worth considering. I have a little bit more $ available to work with this time around, and my priority is to make a really cool and reliable system. My main constraints have to do with weight and space. I will remove some weight from the boat (diesel engine and tank), but will add some too (electric motor, batteries, inverter…). I have done some math and given that I have some good margins to work with, I am not too worried about total weight. However, I do need to consider the positioning of those new components in the boat for weight and balance reasons.

Because the boat is docked to my house, my ultimate vision is to use it as the house's battery bank when it is docked to it. This way I can connect the boat to additional solar panels on the house, and by having a good inverter in the boat, it can power back some loads of the house.

Now that I have shared general context on this project, I wanted to share with you what I am considering and would welcome any suggestions/ comments/ ideas that you may have based on your own experience.

Batteries:

Connect in series 4x 12V EPOCH LiFePO4 batteries (460Ah) to build my 48v system.
12V 460Ah LiFePO4 Battery | Group 8D Size, IP67, Heated, Bluetooth & Victron Comms (epochbatteries.com)

If I were to build my own battery, I would likely double my prior system and have 2x48V batteries in parallel with 560AmpH capacity. Building my own gives me some flexibility on the shape of the overall battery, which helps with positioning on the boat. It is also the lightest option, but at the expense of effectively having less protection to the cells.
I have looked at 48V battery options like EG4 server rack or wall mounted (~200AmpH capacity). Those are essentially the same concept that I was going to build, but done professionally with all sorts of features included, s.a. breakers, fuses and communication ports. I could connect parallel some of these to get a bank of 400AmpH. Neither of these batteries are rated for marine use, but neither would be my DIY batteries…

Meanwhile, I came across these 12V EPOCH (460AmpH), I could connect 4 in series to have a 48V system (460AmpH). These are marine rated and seem to be robust and have all the main features that I value. My only concern at this point with this idea is that I will likely have to spread them a bit in terms of positioning in the boat. i.e. 2 in one place, and 2 in another place. That would mean that I would have to use some thick conductors to connect them and form my 48V bank. That doesn't sound as effective as having a battery bank that is made up of batteries that are all connected by shorth connections.
Detail: These EPOCH batteries have Victron Comms built in. I assume/hope that they can also connect to other components, like EG4 inverters, but I am still investigating that..

Inverter:
EG4 6000XP 48V 120/240V Split Phase | All-In-One Solar Inverter
EG4 6000XP Off-Grid Inverter | 8000W PV Input | 6000W Output | 480V VOC Input

I would like to have an all in one inverter, charger and MPPT controller. From my research so far, this seems to be the most interesting option. I just need to confirm that I can connect the communications from the EPOCH batteries to this inverter.

Secondary boat systems
I still haven't decided if I want to have a separate 12V bank like I had on my previous boat to power secondary systems. My rationale for having those 2 different banks in the past was:
Reliability - By having the 48v bank dedicated to the motor only, there would be no risk of something else draining the battery invertedly and leaving me without a way to "move".
Convenience - Powering the lights is easy, I could get a step down converter from 48V to 12V and power them. But those step down converters are very limited in how many Amps they can handle, and I would quickly have issues connecting things like a fridge or the music amplifiers with it. So having a 12V bank made all that easy.

I would love to hear any comments! Thank you






 
Not a boat guy, but I think I would like the redundancy of parallel banks on the open ocean. If one of the BMS' fails in a single bank you are sol.

A young couple on Youtube (The Wynns?) have a hybrid catamaran with some dc generator/motors between the diesel engines and the transmissions. neat idea.
 
Last edited:
Not a boat guy, but I think I would like the redundancy of parallel banks on the open ocean. If one of the BMS' fails in a single bank you are sol.

A young couple on Youtube (The Wynns?) have a hybrid catamaran with some dc generator/motors between the diesel engines and the transmissions. neat idea.
That is definitely a thought I have had as well, but still haven’t found a proper solution for it.

I could go with 2 of the EG4 wall mounted 48v batteries in parallel but the BMS on each of these is only rated up to 200A, so I would need both operational even if I paralleled them. And I have not found any 48v single battery with decent capacity that has a BMS rated 300A. Do you have any recommendations?

I could consider 8x Epoch 12v (460Amph). That would be a lot of capacity and give me the redundancy but that would become too heavy and quite expensive…
 
Sounds very interesting.

Only thing I have to offer is to make sure you meet the minimum MPPT voltage. While 100V is listed, you need to shoot for 120V in the design. Note also that this is Vmp, not Voc.
It is a good observation.
I still don't know exactly how much capacity I will have in terms of electricity production on the boat. I will have a few solar pannels + my motor will be able to regenerate some power through the propeller while under sail. I will optimize the output of all that in the future. In the meantime, I was considering using a boost MPPT charge controller to be able to charge my large 48v bank even if I have less solar power than what I would ideally need. Worst case I can add a Victron MPPT to get me covered in addition to the all in one inverter. Then when I dock back to the home I will have a lot more solat to get the inverter going.

I have never used a boost MPPT charge controller but saw Will recommending that on some videos and took note. Does that sounds like something that could work?
 
That is definitely a thought I have had as well, but still haven’t found a proper solution for it.

I could go with 2 of the EG4 wall mounted 48v batteries in parallel but the BMS on each of these is only rated up to 200A, so I would need both operational even if I paralleled them. And I have not found any 48v single battery with decent capacity that has a BMS rated 300A. Do you have any recommendations?

I could consider 8x Epoch 12v (460Amph). That would be a lot of capacity and give me the redundancy but that would become too heavy and quite expensive…
In series-parallel, you are drawing 1/2 the amperes from each bank. So 2x4x200a should give you *400 usable amps in approximately the same space. It would be limited to *200 usable amps if one bank failed. The same (I think) with the Eg4s in parallel. In which case, you throttle back and limp home. An ammeter next to the go-fast stick would be a prerequisite.
 
It is a good observation.
I still don't know exactly how much capacity I will have in terms of electricity production on the boat. I will have a few solar pannels + my motor will be able to regenerate some power through the propeller while under sail.

I assumed high series string voltage wasn't practical, especially considering shading issues.

I will optimize the output of all that in the future. In the meantime, I was considering using a boost MPPT charge controller to be able to charge my large 48v bank even if I have less solar power than what I would ideally need. Worst case I can add a Victron MPPT to get me covered in addition to the all in one inverter. Then when I dock back to the home I will have a lot more solat to get the inverter going.

(y)

I have never used a boost MPPT charge controller but saw Will recommending that on some videos and took note. Does that sounds like something that could work?


They seem like workable options. No direct experience, but if I ever need to go there, yeah.

While I'm all about pimping out Victron, if shading or partial shading is a concern, single panels each with their own boost MPPT or in parallel as power dictates, will probably outperform a normal MPPT with 60Vmp or higher.
 
That is definitely a thought I have had as well, but still haven’t found a proper solution for it.

I could go with 2 of the EG4 wall mounted 48v batteries in parallel but the BMS on each of these is only rated up to 200A, so I would need both operational even if I paralleled them. And I have not found any 48v single battery with decent capacity that has a BMS rated 300A. Do you have any recommendations?

I could consider 8x Epoch 12v (460Amph). That would be a lot of capacity and give me the redundancy but that would become too heavy and quite expensive…
I would prefer to have batteries at system voltage. 4X batteries with 100 amp BMS limits in parallel would give you 400 amps available, and if one drops out you still have 300 amps.

Something like these ... 48 volt, sealed and have 200 amp BMS.
 
Last edited:
Inverter:
EG4 6000XP 48V 120/240V Split Phase | All-In-One Solar Inverter
Seem to me like a strange choice. I have one for the home, but I will never put this in my boat.
Reasons:
1-Too powerful. Who need 6kW in a 30ft boat?
2-MPPT will be unusable. With a minimum voltage over 120V, that 3-4 panels in series. Not good.
3-Weather resistant. This is not exactly build to live well in salty sea condition with the fan spinning regularly.
4-Too big. This is quite large. Not ideal in a small boat.

About your motor, I really like the Montenergy ME1507 and the water cooled version ME1616.
The best would be a large hub motor who spin slowly (around 1000 rpm) in a direct drive application, but at that day, I know only https://ebikes.ca/catalog/product/view/_ignore_category/1/id/1328/s/5kw-marine-motor-30/
And QS motor, but they are generally too low power at 48V for a big boat. Maybe acceptable for your.
On a side note, I was able to push my 38ft boat at 3.7 knot with 1.8 kW motor. The point is a boat can move easily at low speed with very little power.
And here some data from a 25ft and 32ft boat on the right and 39ft on the left.
Sailboat electric motor-1.JPG
 
Last edited:
Seem to me like a strange choice. I have one for the home, but I will never put this in my boat.
Reasons:
1-Too powerful. Who need 6kW in a 30ft boat?
2-MPPT will be unusable. With a minimum voltage over 120V, that 3-4 panels in series. Not good.
3-Weather resistant. This is not exactly build to live well in salty sea condition with the fan spinning regularly.
4-Too big. This is quite large. Not ideal in a small boat.

About your motor, I really like the Montenergy ME1507 and the water cooled version ME1616.
The best would be a large hub motor who spin slowly (around 1000 rpm) in a direct drive application, but at that day, I know only https://ebikes.ca/catalog/product/view/_ignore_category/1/id/1328/s/5kw-marine-motor-30/
And QS motor, but they are generally too low power at 48V for a big boat. Maybe acceptable for your.
On a side note, I was able to push my 38ft boat at 3.7 knot with 1.8 kW motor. The point is a boat can move easily at low speed with very little power.
And here some data from a 25ft and 32ft boat on the right and 39ft on the left.
View attachment 245709

Hi,

Thank you for the comments!
1-Too powerful. Who need 6kW in a 30ft boat? -> As I explained in my context, I have the boat docked to my Floating home. I have plenty of space for solar on the roof of the house. Again the vision is that when I connect the boat to the house, energy can flow from the pannels in the house to the boat and from the boat's inverter I can power some loads in the house. Hence why I am looking at an inverter like this to handle all that power. Additionally, I like the fact that it is all in one, and rather have a separate MPPT for chargins using just the boat's solar in the rarer occasions when the boat is not docked to the house.
2-MPPT will be unusable. With a minimum voltage over 120V, that 3-4 panels in series. Not good. -> I agree, easy (& cheap) fix though..
3-Weather resistant. This is not exactly build to live well in salty sea condition with the fan spinning regularly. -> Since this is a fresh water lake, that is less of a concern. The boat does go to salt water as well, but likely not enough for issues to develop. This is a fair point though.. No points againt it.
4-Too big. This is quite large. Not ideal in a small boat.

In terms of motors, I was not familiar with either of your solutions. I have been looking at motors that look like the one in the link below. This would be plug and play, already with the RPMs matched, motor mounts that I can use and all that.. From what I could see, Montenergy and QS motors would need me to figure out everything from scratch as a custom application. Correct?

 
From what I could see, Montenergy and QS motors would need me to figure out everything from scratch as a custom application. Correct?
Yes and no.
The Quiet torque at 9K$ is a ME1616 (1100$) + a controller (1000$) + belt and pulley (500$) + frame and waterpump, cable, etc.
It's plug and play, but you pay high price for this.

The big advantage of hub motor is the direct drive/low rpm set up.
Simply connect the hub to the boat, the propeller shaft to the hub and let's go. No belt, no ratio
Ebikes.ca have good video of the set up: https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-kits/marine.html

And I would add a 5 reasons against the 6000XP on a boat. Idle consumption. At 50-60W or more when the MPPT work, this is energy hungry compare to some inverter and MPPT like Victron.
I have the boat docked to my Floating home. I have plenty of space for solar on the roof of the house. Again the vision is that when I connect the boat to the house, energy can flow from the pannels in the house to the boat and from the boat's inverter I can power some loads in the house. Hence why I am looking at an inverter like this to handle all that power.
I understand better now the reasons of this choice. Thanks
 
From never-never land.. Do a bit of Googling for electric narrowboats. Typically 60 ft long and 7 ft wide.
Series vs parallel motor setups. Lawful crushing speed limit is 3mph in the canals.
 
Last edited:
I would prefer to have batteries at system voltage. 4X batteries with 100 amp BMS limits in parallel would give you 400 amps available, and if one drops out you still have 300 amps.

Something like these ... 48 volt, sealed and have 200 amp BMS.
You have a solid point there. I would also prefer to have batteries at system voltage but the 48v options that I am coming across (like your suggestion), have limited capacity at 100AmpH only. So I would need 4 of those to reach 400AmpH capacity (which even then is not a huge amount).

The LiTime batteries seem to be a great deal and have good reviews, but the upside of those EPOCH batteries is that they would be marine grade. I am starting to come to the conclusion that having a Marine grade solution would be the best in terms of longevity. ( I have also seen some EPOCH marine grade 48v options, but those are also just 100AmpH with 100A BMS..)

Meanwhile I was also keen on having communication ports on the battery so that they could be connected to whatever inverter I choose. But again there I am just trying to design for something to be as complete as possible, I am not sure that the battery communication ports are a critical requirement.
 
400 ah at 48 volts is 20 kWh. How many kWh do you need?

The LiTime are not officially "marine rated" as far as I know, but they are plastic box with a glued on lid and should be fine with getting a little wet as long as they don't get submerged.
 
...having a Marine grade solution would be the best in terms of longevity
At the rated of the improvement of battery technology, you will probably change those Litime, not because they are too old, but probably simply because newer battery with similar size or weight or price will have way more energy.
 
400 ah at 48 volts is 20 kWh. How many kWh do you need?

The LiTime are not officially "marine rated" as far as I know, but they are plastic box with a glued on lid and should be fine with getting a little wet as long as they don't get submerged.
I am looking at 10KW or 15KW motor options, so if I were to run that at "full speed" that would give me just a few hours of range (probably between 2 and 3h with a 400AmpH 48v battery bank). I know I won't be always at full throttle, so I can get a few more hours out of that, but I am trying to maximize that total as much as possible. Got to balance all the battery options vs the weight considerations there to make the decision.

My ideal solution would be to find a 48v battery that is has a little bit more capacity than 100AmpH.
The options I have found so far essentially are 3:
-Buy a few 48V, 100AmpH batteries and connect them in parallel to meet my motor needs, up to about 4 or 5 batteries (before I run into space/weight issues)
-Buy 2 wall mount 48v 200AmpH batteries like the ones from Eg4. These are bigger blocks and harder to integrate, and not marine friendly at all
-Make my own battery, using Eve cells with 280 or 300 AmpH. This was my initial idea, but I am hoping to move away from it because admitedly this will be much more work and there are more robust batteries available out there than what I could easily make.
 
My 200ah 24 volt Ampere Time/LiTime weigh between 85 and 90 pounds each. The 100ah 48 volt batteries should weigh the same ... if that helps you get things figured out. Last time I looked they had the dimensions posted on the web site, but I can measure mine if you don't find those dimensions.
 
My 200ah 24 volt Ampere Time/LiTime weigh between 85 and 90 pounds each. The 100ah 48 volt batteries should weigh the same ... if that helps you get things figured out. Last time I looked they had the dimensions posted on the web site, but I can measure mine if you don't find those dimensions.
Thank you for the kind offer. I have indeed been able to find all these dimensions and weight info online.

The more I think through this, the more I realize that there are many options, which can be hard to choose from.

The LiTime batteries are cheaper, but also a bit simpler. I value theirs lightness, but I also realize that I value some of the features I see in more robust batteries.
EPOCH batteries seem very robust and complete. Their 12V 460AmpH seems like the coolest battery, it even has Victron Coms, it has a BMS rated 300A continuous... If I connected 4 of those I would have a 48v bank with 460AmpH, rich in features and an outrageous capability of supplying current to my motor.. But then as someone pointed out, if a single battery fails I no longer have a 48V system, and that made a lot of sense to me.
So then I look at the EPOCH 48v as a good alternative if I were to buy several as well. However, those don't have such a strong BMS, nor the cool features like the Victron coms.. PLus these would end up costing a lot more money than the LiTime, for effectively the same capacity. :D

Hard to choose!
 
I am in the process of designing my second electric sailboat!

My first project was done about 3 years ago, a byproduct of COVID season. I converted a 25 feet sailboat to electric power. I am not an electrician, I have learned everything I know through online research and trial and error.
On that first project, I decided to build my own batteries using 280 AmpH EVE prismatic cells. The boat had an electric Outboard motor powered by a 48V battery bank (with 16 cells in Series) with an Overkill Solar BMS. Using the same type of cells I also built 2 additional 12V banks also with Overkill Solar BMS that were connected in parallel (560 AmpH). I used the 12V system to run everything else on the boat (Lights, Amplifiers for Speakers and Subwoofer, a small fridge and a Renogy 3000W inverter).
That setup served me well and was appropriate for the size of the boat and for the use I made of it. I live on a Floating home on a lake and the sailboat is docked to the house. I use it often just to motor around the lake, but sometimes I venture further to explore other lakes or even out to sea and don't always have a chance to put up the sails for some or all of my route. Bottom line, with this setup on my first boat, I had an autonomy of about 7 hours at "full throttle", and that felt like the right amount.


Meanwhile, I bought a bigger boat! :)

I have bought a Catalina 30 Sailboat, which is a bit longer, but much wider. This makes it a much more robust boat, with potential for new adventures. My first step, naturally, is to remove the 25Hp Diesel engine that it has and install an electric motor and some batteries instead. This boat has an inboard motor connected to a shaft. There are several electric motors available in the market for this sort of application and after some research, I know I am most likely to purchase a 15Kw motor for my application. I think that the only spec worth calling out is that a motor like this will need to draw 300A continuous when operating at full throttle, which is important to keep in mind when deciding on the battery setup.

My initial plan was to build my own batteries again. But as I did some research I found that there are new options in the market worth considering. I have a little bit more $ available to work with this time around, and my priority is to make a really cool and reliable system. My main constraints have to do with weight and space. I will remove some weight from the boat (diesel engine and tank), but will add some too (electric motor, batteries, inverter…). I have done some math and given that I have some good margins to work with, I am not too worried about total weight. However, I do need to consider the positioning of those new components in the boat for weight and balance reasons.

Because the boat is docked to my house, my ultimate vision is to use it as the house's battery bank when it is docked to it. This way I can connect the boat to additional solar panels on the house, and by having a good inverter in the boat, it can power back some loads of the house.

Now that I have shared general context on this project, I wanted to share with you what I am considering and would welcome any suggestions/ comments/ ideas that you may have based on your own experience.

Batteries:
Connect in series 4x 12V EPOCH LiFePO4 batteries (460Ah) to build my 48v system.
12V 460Ah LiFePO4 Battery | Group 8D Size, IP67, Heated, Bluetooth & Victron Comms (epochbatteries.com)


If I were to build my own battery, I would likely double my prior system and have 2x48V batteries in parallel with 560AmpH capacity. Building my own gives me some flexibility on the shape of the overall battery, which helps with positioning on the boat. It is also the lightest option, but at the expense of effectively having less protection to the cells.
I have looked at 48V battery options like EG4 server rack or wall mounted (~200AmpH capacity). Those are essentially the same concept that I was going to build, but done professionally with all sorts of features included, s.a. breakers, fuses and communication ports. I could connect parallel some of these to get a bank of 400AmpH. Neither of these batteries are rated for marine use, but neither would be my DIY batteries…


Meanwhile, I came across these 12V EPOCH (460AmpH), I could connect 4 in series to have a 48V system (460AmpH). These are marine rated and seem to be robust and have all the main features that I value. My only concern at this point with this idea is that I will likely have to spread them a bit in terms of positioning in the boat. i.e. 2 in one place, and 2 in another place. That would mean that I would have to use some thick conductors to connect them and form my 48V bank. That doesn't sound as effective as having a battery bank that is made up of batteries that are all connected by shorth connections.
Detail: These EPOCH batteries have Victron Comms built in. I assume/hope that they can also connect to other components, like EG4 inverters, but I am still investigating that..


Inverter:
EG4 6000XP 48V 120/240V Split Phase | All-In-One Solar Inverter
EG4 6000XP Off-Grid Inverter | 8000W PV Input | 6000W Output | 480V VOC Input


I would like to have an all in one inverter, charger and MPPT controller. From my research so far, this seems to be the most interesting option. I just need to confirm that I can connect the communications from the EPOCH batteries to this inverter.

Secondary boat systems
I still haven't decided if I want to have a separate 12V bank like I had on my previous boat to power secondary systems. My rationale for having those 2 different banks in the past was:
Reliability - By having the 48v bank dedicated to the motor only, there would be no risk of something else draining the battery invertedly and leaving me without a way to "move".
Convenience - Powering the lights is easy, I could get a step down converter from 48V to 12V and power them. But those step down converters are very limited in how many Amps they can handle, and I would quickly have issues connecting things like a fridge or the music amplifiers with it. So having a 12V bank made all that easy.


I would love to hear any comments! Thank you
A Cat 30 is a fun boat… small enough to be nimble and large enough to enjoy and cruise in..
been on many of em……J..
 
A question about insurance... are you able to insure your present Electric boat ?

You might be trailering your present boat but a Catalina 30 is not known as a trailer boat.

Have you looked into insurance for your new to you Catalina with the electric conversion? You might have a problem with that.

Most marinas I know of require at least liability insurance now.

FYI, Boat US/Geico are now refusing to take on boats over 50 years old. So anything 1974 and before.
 
I am looking at 10KW or 15KW motor options, so if I were to run that at "full speed" that would give me just a few hours of range (probably between 2 and 3h with a 400AmpH 48v battery bank). I know I won't be always at full throttle, so I can get a few more hours out of that, but I am trying to maximize that total as much as possible. Got to balance all the battery options vs the weight considerations there to make the decision.

My ideal solution would be to find a 48v battery that is has a little bit more capacity than 100AmpH.
The options I have found so far essentially are 3:
-Buy a few 48V, 100AmpH batteries and connect them in parallel to meet my motor needs, up to about 4 or 5 batteries (before I run into space/weight issues)
-Buy 2 wall mount 48v 200AmpH batteries like the ones from Eg4. These are bigger blocks and harder to integrate, and not marine friendly at all
-Make my own battery, using Eve cells with 280 or 300 AmpH. This was my initial idea, but I am hoping to move away from it because admitedly this will be much more work and there are more robust batteries available out there than what I could easily make.
how are you thinking of setting up the switchgear to allow a 2 way power flow to/from the house? I am interested in how you do this.
 
Last edited:
My opinion is go with a 48v BMS batteries. If for weight reasons you need to separate them have them come together onto a bus bar (with equal length/sized cables (and fused at both ends of that wire).

I would also have a separate 12v battery system for all the 12v stuff.

I think you would have more difficulty combining several 12v batteries in various places without balancing issues than paralleling the 48v batteries.

I have thought about doing what you are doing - but I need to buy a boat first… in my thoughts I looked at the Elco electric motors - but I don’t know if they are good, great, or overpriced.

Good Luck!
 
Perhaps buy 5 of the 12v460ah batteries, such that 4 become the 48v motor battery, and the 5th become the 12v "house" battery, but can double as spare motor battery in event of failure of one. This way, you are always carrying a spare.

You'd carry a simple 12v100ah to take the place of the 460ah battery, if it got pressed into backup duty for the motor.

Try to carry as many spares as possible, as things go wrong in ways not envisioned (on a boat, out in the middle of ...)
 
I don't have the boat yet, but have designed its systems in my mind. *Almost* bought one a week ago, but lost the bidding... yea eBay (not). Anyway, my thoughts. This would be for a 30' electric-only sailboat, something like an Islander 30 MK-2. Small enough to use around California's Delta and SF Bay, big enough to run up / down the coast. Not planning to cross the ocean, and not super heavy (so, not an Island Packet).

1. Electric motor. 10kw is probably the right size. 15kw is tempting, but there's an efficiency penalty for the larger motors when used at lower power levels, which is most of the time. Digital Mermaid (YouTube) did an analysis of this. I believe she's going with a 5kw and a 10kw linked with pulleys to the one prop shaft. Separate controllers.

2. Shade from the Sun is important here, so I'd go with rigid panels (higher efficiency), covering the cockpit. Keeing in mind the weight, might get 1kw worth depending on where the main's boom comes to. Main sheet would be to a traveler just in front of the companion way to keep the cockpit open for the panels. Anyway, two pairs of two panels (port, stbd), each pair wired in series and to separate MPPTs to feed the 48v battery bank.

3. Two 48v batteries. Build from cells, either 280ah or 305's if they'll fit. Basically run them 16s, one on each side of the motor in the original engine bay. If the bay is shorter and wider, turning pairs of cells sideways (i.e. 2x8) might work. Custom battery box (wood, fiberglass covered). Separate 200A BMS for each, with the positives tied together with a pair of 200A fuses then the main disconnect to the 48v buss. In the event of a problem, removing a fuse can isolate a bad battery. One of those A/B/A+B battery combiner switches could work, but it's too easy to leave one battery out.

4. Run a 48v 2-3kw inverter charger, such as the Victron Multiplus series. 120v out for the galley (induction cook top, microwave oven, etc.). Charger function would be for shore power input at marinas; a 20 amp hookup (so, ~40 amps @ 50v out) should be enough to recharge the system overnight. It could also be used for generator input, as a backup when off shore.

5. 12v system for electronics, radios, navigation, etc. Separate 12v 100-200 AH lithium, fed from a 5th solar panel across the back of the boat, behind the stay. Cross connect the 12v and 48v systems with switchable DC-DC chargers, one for each direction. (No, the 12v -> 48v direction wouldn't be very effective, given the relative sizes, but it's for backup. You can move the boat at a knot or two with 500 watts.)

In the OP's case, the shore-based solar and boat-based house mains connections could be done with cables, but I would be concerned about opportunities for some serious galvanic issues, especially with the boat -> house connection. You've got a ground at the house, and a separate one at the boat. Current is going to flow unless the two are stoutly bonded, but I'm not sure what the electrical code says is the correct solution.
 
Last edited:

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top