Hey everyone, happy Thanksgiving! This is my first post on the forum -- found it after watching some of Will's videos. I'm a Mechanical Engineer who changed careers to software development so that I could work remote. I've done a decent amount of industrial automation and microcontroller work in previous positions.
I recently purchased a Keystone Springdale travel trailer that I plan on doing some extended off-grid living/working in with my wife. It has a WFCO power distribution system with a built-in 12V converter, 120V breaker panel, and 12V fuse panel. It accepts power from a 30A Shore power hookup and from the aux input on the trailer hitch. The battery is crap and barely holds a charge.
My plan is to add a large DIY LiFePo4 battery and equipment to charge it from shore power and eventually solar. We will plan on charging off a generator a few hours/day until we eventually install solar panels.

Thanks and I appreciate any feedback. I have a lot of experience working with 12 and 24 volt system, but I've never built a 48V system. I understand that fully charged, these batteries can kill me.
Happy Holidays and thanks in advance for any advice.
SendIt
Edit: removed A/C requirement from energy storage system
I recently purchased a Keystone Springdale travel trailer that I plan on doing some extended off-grid living/working in with my wife. It has a WFCO power distribution system with a built-in 12V converter, 120V breaker panel, and 12V fuse panel. It accepts power from a 30A Shore power hookup and from the aux input on the trailer hitch. The battery is crap and barely holds a charge.
My plan is to add a large DIY LiFePo4 battery and equipment to charge it from shore power and eventually solar. We will plan on charging off a generator a few hours/day until we eventually install solar panels.
Requirements
I'd like to build out a 48V DIY battery with 16 x 100ah cells and an overkill solar BMS and I'm trying to decide what components to add which can:- invert 48V to 120V
- convert 48V to 12V
- charge the LiFePo4 from the shore hookup
- disconnect automatically when the cells are low or it's too cold
- Eventually charge from solar.
Loads
The loads I'm working with are relatively small. AC Loads (two people working remote):- Starlink, 2 laptops, and a monitor 8-9 hours/day
- Lights
- Awning
- Propane Furnace Fan
- Propane water heater
- water pump
Initial Design
I'm thinking about going with Victron components, since it seems like they are high-quality and have a good re-sale value. There's a local distributor in town that I can purchase everything from. I have a few questions about how the BMS interfaces with the Victron components and how to size the fuses. I'm also wondering if someone recommends going with a less expensive brand than Victron.
Future Work
Initially, I'm just doing the battery storage system, but in the future I'm expecting to add the followingBattery Temperature Controller
I still need to figure out how I'm going to heat the battery. We expect to be in some cold areas. I've seen a few custom controllers with Arduino hardware. I'm not sure if I can tap into the BMS or the Multiplus to get the battery temperature or I'll need a separate temp sensor for the heater. Regardless, I'm not going to worry about this until later.Solar Charge Controller
Initially, I'm planning on charging the system with a portable generator that I already own. At some point in the future, I'll be adding rooftop solar. It's winter here, so I don't want to climb around on the snow-covered roof until it melts offOpen Questions
- Any safety concerns you can see with this setup?
- Is it a bad idea to run the charging and discharging through the BMS? Should I have a separate battery protect to switch the high current AC Inverter load?
- How large should the fuses be on the shunt, inverter, and dc charger?
- Is Victron overkill? Anyone recommend less expensive components?
- I'd like to be able to fully disconnect the battery when storing the trailer. Do I need to add a circuit to charge the multiplus capacitors when reconnecting the battery so I don't trigger the over-current protection on the BMS? Any posts you recommend about that if so?
- Can I use the Cerbo + Multiplus to switch the inverter off in a low-voltage situation or do I need an additional battery protect?
Thanks and I appreciate any feedback. I have a lot of experience working with 12 and 24 volt system, but I've never built a 48V system. I understand that fully charged, these batteries can kill me.
Happy Holidays and thanks in advance for any advice.
SendIt
Edit: removed A/C requirement from energy storage system
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