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Deye Firmware Tracker Thread

@Zivva @godawgs

Can you communicate your exact 8K inverter model as well as the current versions of your firmware so that I can add you to my listing.

You will notice in the listing that there are different versions of MAIN firmware for 8K, those that start with the number 5 or 6.
 
@Zivva @godawgs

Can you communicate your exact 8K inverter model as well as the current versions of your firmware so that I can add you to my listing.

You will notice in the listing that there are different versions of MAIN firmware for 8K, those that start with the number 5 or 6.
I've ordered the 8K and will update here what firmware versions are on it when I receive it.

@Sleeper85 - Do you keep the spreadsheet listing posted anywhere? I'd be very curious what the current versions are. Thanks!
 
Another note: I have been asking several Chinese suppliers if they will ship the 8K LP1-EU version to the USA, Mexico, or Canada. None of them will do it. They have a complete lock down from Sol-Ark.

This is where one supplier said they cannot ship to:

The United States, Canada, Mexico, Puerto Rico, South Africa, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Lebanon, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Spain, the Philippines
 
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I think this confirms that there is a different MAIN firmware for US and EU.

View attachment 233051
That isn't really surprising IMHO.

- UL vs CE Standards
- Arc Fault Protection for US
- Split Phase for US / 1ph or 3ph for EU etc
- 110VAC vs 220VAC/230VAC/240VAC
- Brand Names: Sol Ark in US / Sun Synk in UK / Deye in EU and Rest of the World
- ...

Not sure about the exact Hardware Differences because I'm not familiar with the US Market.
But I could Imagine that since there are most likely different Grid Codes into Place (and there for sure are different e.g. Power Converter Standards) and if a different Filter is Used, that could require a different Firmware. In principle everything could be a Parameter of Course (e.g. Controller Gains) so not sure at which Point / which Part of these Features they decided to split.

Most likely it's the exact same Git Codebase that they and just generate 2 Firmware Files based on the Country Requirements (e.g. via #ifndef or similar) :ROFLMAO: . And then, to avoid this Brand Conflict, you cannot just cross-flash one Inverter to the other (so I guess they have some Control to avoid somebody flashing US firmware onto an EU Inverter ...)
 
Another note: I have been asking several Chinese suppliers if they will ship the 8K LP1-EU version to the USA, Mexico, or Canada. None of them will do it. They have a complete lock down from Sol-Ark.

This is where one supplier said they cannot ship to:

The United States, Canada, Mexico, Puerto Rico, South Africa, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Lebanon, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Spain, the Philippines
Pretty sure that's also illegal in Denmark. Even if Deye could ship it here (they sell the 3ph Version), nobody could [legally] install it.

If you go above 16A, it NEEDS to be a 3ph Inverter.

Of course you can install several < 3kW Inverters (3000W/230V ~ 16A) if you really want (not that it makes much sense though from a Cost Perspective).
 
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That isn't really surprising IMHO.

- UL vs CE Standards
- Arc Fault Protection for US
- Split Phase for US / 1ph or 3ph for EU etc
- 110VAC vs 220VAC/230VAC/240VAC
- Brand Names: Sol Ark in US / Sun Synk in UK / Deye in EU and Rest of the World
- ...

Not sure about the exact Hardware Differences because I'm not familiar with the US Market.
But I could Imagine that since there are most likely different Grid Codes into Place (and there for sure are different e.g. Power Converter Standards) and if a different Filter is Used, that could require a different Firmware. In principle everything could be a Parameter of Course (e.g. Controller Gains) so not sure at which Point / which Part of these Features they decided to split.

Most likely it's the exact same Git Codebase that they and just generate 2 Firmware Files based on the Country Requirements (e.g. via #ifndef or similar) :ROFLMAO: . And then, to avoid this Brand Conflict, you cannot just cross-flash one Inverter to the other (so I guess they have some Control to avoid somebody flashing US firmware onto an EU Inverter ...)
My understanding is that the 8K LP1 hardware is exactly the same for the EU and the US. The manual is the same for both, as well. It can handle both single phase 220-240V or split-phase 120/120V - the AC input connector is configured for it. The features (and power) are limited in the firmware. The LP1 is both UL and CE certified. It's the brand names that are restricting it in the US. The Sol-ark 12K is essentially the same as the Deye 8K.
 
Pretty sure that's also illegal in Denmark. Even if Deye could ship it here (they sell the 3ph Version), nobody could [legally] install it.

If you go above 16A, it NEEDS to be a 3ph Inverter.

Of course you can install several < 3kW Inverters (3000W/230A ~ 16A) if you really want (not that it makes much sense though from a Cost Perspective).
I'm eager to know: Do all homes in Denmark have 3 phase? If so, what kind is it (wye, delta, etc.)? Very few residential homes in the US have 3 phase.
 
I'm eager to know: Do all homes in Denmark have 3 phase? If so, what kind is it (wye, delta, etc.)? Very few residential homes in the US have 3 phase.

Pretty sure we all have 3ph in Denmark. I cannot see how old Houses with low Amperage (16A / 25A) could survive on single Phase (that's like 3-5 kW only ...).

Pretty sure also Germany has 3-phases very Common. It's the UK where it's quite rare (3ph only/mostly in Industry).

What kind ? In Denmark 230 VAC L-N / 400 VAC L-L, TT Earthing. You get 4 Wires (L1,L2,L3,N) from your Utility and PE is usually one/multiple Rods that are stick in the Ground.

Wye or Delta depends on how you connect your Equipment. Since you have 3-phase-4-wire System you can choose to connect as you want:
- Wye + N
- Delta
- Wye without Neutral
- etc

(mostly is single phase Consumers anyways)

One problem you don't have I think (neither do single phase Homes in UK) is the case where your Neutral gets interrupted (faulty 4P Breaker/Contactor, Somebody drilled through some Electrical Cabling in the Street, etc). That is a funny Day if it happens (especially if you have most of your loads on one Phase): it probably would have been just a brighter light bulp in the old Days, nowadays I'd say it's mostly blown Electronics. Simply because your L-N voltage is now dictated by L1-L2-L3 and their respective loads, since the Neutral is FLOATING in that Fault case.

My Solution ? Voltage Monitoring Relay 3p4w + Grid Contactor (only on L1/L2/L3) and yeah, do NOT pass Neutral through Contactors. IMHO 4P Breakers are Fine (nothing is perfect but still, way more reliable than Contactors).

EDIT 1: Every Country has their own little quirks ... UK with TN-C-S is quite a fun one at that especially with Earth Rods, Electric Vehicles, Metal Water/Gas Pipes and TN-C-S Combined (very Instructive Descriptions by John Ward in his Videos: https://www.youtube.com/@jwflame/videos)
 
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Pretty sure we all have 3ph in Denmark. I cannot see how old Houses with low Amperage (16A / 25A) could survive on single Phase (that's like 3-5 kW only ...).

Pretty sure also Germany has 3-phases very Common. It's the UK where it's quite rare (3ph only/mostly in Industry).

What kind ? In Denmark 230 VAC L-N / 400 VAC L-L, TT Earthing. You get 4 Wires (L1,L2,L3,N) from your Utility and PE is usually one/multiple Rods that are stick in the Ground.

Wye or Delta depends on how you connect your Equipment. Since you have 3-phase-4-wire System you can choose to connect as you want:
- Wye + N
- Delta
- Wye without Neutral
- etc

(mostly is single phase Consumers anyways)

One problem you don't have I think (neither do single phase Homes in UK) is the case where your Neutral gets interrupted (faulty 4P Breaker/Contactor, Somebody drilled through some Electrical Cabling in the Street, etc). That is a funny Day if it happens (especially if you have most of your loads on one Phase): it probably would have been just a brighter light bulp in the old Days, nowadays I'd say it's mostly blown Electronics. Simply because your L-N voltage is now dictated by L1-L2-L3 and their respective loads, since the Neutral is FLOATING in that Fault case.

My Solution ? Voltage Monitoring Relay 3p4w + Grid Contactor (only on L1/L2/L3) and yeah, do NOT pass Neutral through Contactors. IMHO 4P Breakers are Fine (nothing is perfect but still, way more reliable than Contactors).

EDIT 1: Every Country has their own little quirks ... UK with TN-C-S is quite a fun one at that especially with Earth Rods, Electric Vehicles, Metal Water/Gas Pipes and TN-C-S Combined (very Instructive Descriptions by John Ward in his Videos: https://www.youtube.com/@jwflame/videos)
I have 3 phase delta (4 wire) on my property - it's very rare for a residential home. But the previous owner had a CNC machine shop and installed 3-phase many years ago.

That's very interesting that you have 230/400V 3 phase in a home. Are there any devices that use the 400V?
 
I have 3 phase delta (4 wire) on my property - it's very rare for a residential home. But the previous owner had a CNC machine shop and installed 3-phase many years ago.

That's very interesting that you have 230/400V 3 phase in a home. Are there any devices that use the 400V?
Again ... 3p4w is what the utility gives you. You don't "have" delta on your Property. You **chose** to connect (some of) your Equipment in Delta. If you have a Neutral you could connect in Star. You can connect 1 equipment in Delta and 1 in Star. One thing is the Supply (1p2w, 3p3w, 3p4w, etc), the other is the Load Connection/Wiring Method (L-N, Wye-N, Delta). It's your Choice. You are free to do as you want since you have 4 wires. Mind of course not blowing up the 230VAC equipment by connecting it to 400VAC though ... I just mean that you are not restricted to a single Configuration for your Loads (Consumers) ;). And you definitively don't ONLY "have" Delta (that would only be 3p3w) otherwise you would NOT be able to connect any Single Phase Load (well, without going through a Delta-Wye-N Transformer at least) !

Usually (if the equipment can take it) Delta has the advantage of nullifying (not letting "out") third harmonic currents and, of course, reducing wiring size Requirements since the Current will be reduced (for the same Power). You also only need to pull 3(+PE) wires instead of 4(+PE). But as usual there are no free lunches in Power Electronics :).

(I know these Things can get quite Confusing, especially once People start talking about "Simple Voltage", "Complex Voltage", "Phase Voltage" [Phase-Neutral or Phase-Phase], "Line Currents", "Phase Currents", ... I'm not the best knowing the Nomenclature by Hearth and I also get confused at Times. At the end of the Day a Single Line Diagram / Schematic is worth much more than whatever Naming Scheme "should" be followed)

Back to your Question ...

Usually the Cooker/Stove is 3-phase, although that (depending how the Stove is built) it's simply 3 "Circuits" that are always 230V and can either be configured in "Parallel" by adding some "Jumper" / Busbar (for Single Phase Markets: e.g. U.K., Italy, 1ph x 32A ... 50A for Instance) or each Circuit goes on "Different Phases" (e.g. Denmark, maybe Germany, 3ph x 10A ... 16A).

Other than that, Car Charger, Heatpump (Air-to-Water at least), some Old/Heavy Duty Machines (I know of a Friend who had a 400V Heavy-Duty CNC / Drilling Machine). I don't have a whole lot of Examples off the top of my Head though besides these ones. Different Story in Industries though ...
 
Again ... 3p4w is what the utility gives you. You don't "have" delta on your Property. You **chose** to connect (some of) your Equipment in Delta. If you have a Neutral you could connect in Star. You can connect 1 equipment in Delta and 1 in Star. One thing is the Supply (1p2w, 3p3w, 3p4w, etc), the other is the Load Connection/Wiring Method (L-N, Wye-N, Delta). It's your Choice. You are free to do as you want since you have 4 wires. Mind of course not blowing up the 230VAC equipment by connecting it to 400VAC though ... I just mean that you are not restricted to a single Configuration for your Loads (Consumers) ;). And you definitively don't ONLY "have" Delta (that would only be 3p3w) otherwise you would NOT be able to connect any Single Phase Load (well, without going through a Delta-Wye-N Transformer at least) !

Usually (if the equipment can take it) Delta has the advantage of nullifying (not letting "out") third harmonic currents and, of course, reducing wiring size Requirements since the Current will be reduced (for the same Power). You also only need to pull 3(+PE) wires instead of 4(+PE). But as usual there are no free lunches in Power Electronics :).

(I know these Things can get quite Confusing, especially once People start talking about "Simple Voltage", "Complex Voltage", "Phase Voltage" [Phase-Neutral or Phase-Phase], "Line Currents", "Phase Currents", ... I'm not the best knowing the Nomenclature by Hearth and I also get confused at Times. At the end of the Day a Single Line Diagram / Schematic is worth much more than whatever Naming Scheme "should" be followed)

Back to your Question ...

Usually the Cooker/Stove is 3-phase, although that (depending how the Stove is built) it's simply 3 "Circuits" that are always 230V and can either be configured in "Parallel" by adding some "Jumper" / Busbar (for Single Phase Markets: e.g. U.K., Italy, 1ph x 32A ... 50A for Instance) or each Circuit goes on "Different Phases" (e.g. Denmark, maybe Germany, 3ph x 10A ... 16A).

Other than that, Car Charger, Heatpump (Air-to-Water at least), some Old/Heavy Duty Machines (I know of a Friend who had a 400V Heavy-Duty CNC / Drilling Machine). I don't have a whole lot of Examples off the top of my Head though besides these ones. Different Story in Industries though ...
Yes, that makes sense on the choice of configuration. What I have is L1/L2/L3/N.
L1-N=120V
L2-N=120V
L3-N=208V

And any combination of 2 (e.g. L1-L2, L2-L3, etc.) = 240V

So your high amperage devices use 230V? The 400V is not really used?
 
Yes, that makes sense on the choice of configuration. What I have is L1/L2/L3/N.
L1-N=120V
L2-N=120V
L3-N=208V

And any combination of 2 (e.g. L1-L2, L2-L3, etc.) = 240V
What's up with L3 ?


Here in Denmark (and Europe) it's:
L1-N = 230VAC
L2-N = 230VAC
L3-N = 230VAC

L1-L2 = 400VAC
L2-L3 = 400VAC
L3-L1 = 400VAC

So your high amperage devices use 230V? The 400V is not really used?
Ehm .. no. Why do you say that ? You could say that if wired in Star (Wye-N) it's effectively like having a 1ph System with 3x the Amperage. But you still have the Option of wiring it in Delta. Plus of course you have a Rotating Field which can be useful (and was in the past at least) to spin up Motors (that's how they originally worked anyways and still do in Big Generators).

As I said (for the Stove) it depends how it's build. If it's market-specific it could be 400V Delta (which would have like 3x LESS Power if you connected in Wye to a non-target Market of course).

At the end of the day though, for a given Wiring installation (say 2.5mm2 / 16A), the Power that it can provide (and that the load can use) it's the same:
S = sqrt(3) x 400VAC x 16A = 3 x 230VAC x 16A = 11kVA

Those are the Supply (Line) Currents.

The Load (Phase) Currents depends how the Equipment is Connected:
- Star (Wye): Uload = UL-N = 230 VAC, Iload = ISupply = 16A
- Delta: Uload = UL-L = UL-N * sqrt(3) = 400 VAC, Iload = ISupply/sqrt(3) = 9.2A

But of course the Power stays the same. No free lunches ;) . There isn't extra Power Being available without overloading the Wire/Breaker of the Supply System. And to be honest the Supply doesn't care if your equipment is Star/Delta Connected (harmonics might be another topic where it actually cares, but that's going down the wrong rabbit hole at this point).

For an Inverter Based Heatpump I'm pretty sure it's just a dumb 3ph Diode Rectifier (no Active Frontend), so there it's effectively the Line-Line Voltage that matters and is Rectified and reflected onto the DC-Link of the Heatpump's Inverter. For a non-Inverter Based heatpump it might actually be that they use the Star-Delta Starting Method in order to reduce Inrush Current.

It can actually be quite tricky to tell exactly the Equipment is connected though (unless you are talking about a purely Electromechanical System, i.e. Motor or Transformer). You might have a Delta-Star Transformer. You connect your Power Converter on the STAR (Wye) Side of the Transformer. You don't use the Neutral Wire. Are you Star or Delta Connected ? Since it's the Line-Line Voltage that is reflected on the DC-Link after Rectification, I'd say Delta, but I also recognize that this is not a very clear cut (not else because of 120°/180° Commutation etc). Although that System doesn't really hold the sqrt(3) Factors anyways and it's a AC/DC conversion i.e. 3ph <-> 1ph / DC so more like sqrt(2/3) on the Current between DC and AC.
 
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My understanding is that the 8K LP1 hardware is exactly the same for the EU and the US. The manual is the same for both, as well. It can handle both single phase 220-240V or split-phase 120/120V - the AC input connector is configured for it. The features (and power) are limited in the firmware. The LP1 is both UL and CE certified. It's the brand names that are restricting it in the US. The Sol-ark 12K is essentially the same as the Deye 8K.
The 220-240V has a neutral bus bar?
 
I found on other forum this firmware name.
MCU2_6027US_NC_NR8K59V.bin

And i remember that in a few years ago the number of firmware for 8KUS was 5.9.8.2. Then change to 5.2.1.4 . And after that change, the solar panel capacity display on the screen change from 12K to 8K.
 
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Another note: I have been asking several Chinese suppliers if they will ship the 8K LP1-EU version to the USA, Mexico, or Canada. None of them will do it. They have a complete lock down from Sol-Ark.

This is where one supplier said they cannot ship to:

The United States, Canada, Mexico, Puerto Rico, South Africa, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Lebanon, the United Kingdom, Ireland, Spain, the Philippines
Deye 8K can be paralleled, the Sol-Ark 8K can’t.

I thought only Deye 12K and above were restricted in certain markets.
 
I use MCU2_6027US_NC_NR8K59V on SUN-8K-SG01LP1-US and in comparison with MCU2_5227US_NC_NR8K59V.bin

Apparently the 2 programs are equivalent, both work fine on the inverter, the changes seen are the default configurations. The 6027 will setup the EU Grid standar as default and the 5227 will put US Grid standard. They may have more internal different things but so far all screens and setting are the same.
 

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