Solarvi
New Member
Is there a difference between EU and US model in choosing a Deye inverter. Is it ok to use the Deye Inverter EU variant if the connections to the Grid were L1 and L2?
At least in my 3-phase EU model you can choose between 50/60Hz.The US grid runs at 60Hz, EU will be 50Hz. I suspect that will be reflected in the difference in inverters.
If your looking to use it in the Philippines you would need the EU version, the US version uses split phase 120v whereas the EU version is single phase 220v which is the typical grid output there.Is there a difference between EU and US model in choosing a Deye inverter. Is it ok to use the Deye Inverter EU variant if the connections to the Grid were L1 and L2?
No its not.Grounding may be an issue. USA version has L1 and L2 at 120v to ground. In EU version, one of the lines is 0v to ground.
This confuses me here in Thailand for all intense purposes the electrical system is European (earth/neutral bond is considered an extremely dangerous practice) yet they state the earth should be bonded to neutral same as the US I've come across a few family installations where it's bonded and the safety devices won't work so the bond has had to be removed.No its not.
We have hot wire
We have neutrale wire .
We have ground wire what it in the house on earth pin.
We do not use like usa a ground from the main power line.
Comparing American 240VAC equipment to European 230VAC
This is more a question for curiosity, as I don't have a 240 volt appliance nor do I plan on visiting Europe. As far as I have been able to tell, much of Europe uses the CEE 7 standard for householddiy.stackexchange.com
We have 1 fase or 3 fase line.
All house have grid line of 3 fase .
So all house have 400volts.
400 volt are use for cooking and or ground heat/cool pomp heating systeem.
the frequency select-ableThe US grid runs at 60Hz, EU will be 50Hz. I suspect that will be reflected in the difference in inverters.
whatever will they think of nextthe frequency select-able
So where at the first disconnect should the bond be made I'm hoping after the main rccb? here they only supply live and neutral I'm guessing that's why the regs state a bond should be in place the only thing that worries me is the occasional time the engineers decide to swap the conductors likely a live/earth bond would trip the rccb. I'll start drawing up a circuit design soon when I have some spare time I have some questions about ground rod placement where bonded rebar and ground source stainless pipes will be used.It depends on what the utility provides to the customer.
In North America the utility company provides only the current carrying conductors. (No ground)
We make the N/G bond at the first disconnect and our grounding system begins there.
In some European countries the utility makes the N/G bond and provides the customer with a ground (PE) conductor. In that case, you should not make a second N/G bond.
Anywhere in the enclosure that the first means of disconnect is located.So where at the first disconnect should the bond be made
Should be before any GFCI/RCD, or they wouldn't function correctly.I'm hoping after the main rccb?
So would this trip if a live/earth bond happened?Anywhere in the enclosure that the first means of disconnect is located.
Should be before any GFCI/RCD, or they wouldn't function correctly.
"Live", describes the conductor that is not bonded.So would this trip if a live/earth bond happened?
Sorry your not understanding how backwards Thailand's safety is, I could bond one conductor then if a drunk crashes into a power pole and blows the transformer that feeds our village it's a 50/50 chance whether that bonded conductor gets reconnected or the unbonded one."Live", describes the conductor that is not bonded.
If one of the conductors provided by the utility is already bonded. You will need to bond the same one.
This confuses me here in Thailand for all intense purposes the electrical system is European (earth/neutral bond is considered an extremely dangerous practice) yet they state the earth should be bonded to neutral same as the US I've come across a few family installations where it's bonded and the safety devices won't work so the bond has had to be removed.
What do I do for my inspection? Follow the government requirements and bond with the possiblity it doesn't work or not bond?
I guess I'll find out when I wire my system.
This is what I currently have in place without a n/g bond but once my solar is installed I'll be forced to fit a n/g bond due to egat(Thai Poco) regulations. I could be worried about something I can easily rectify after the inspection by ripping out the bond.Its really save .
We use special systeem.
That compleet shutdown on a drop of water.
Aardlekschakelaar - Wikipedia
nl.wikipedia.org
Use Google Translate how this systeem works.
The hole house is protect with this systeem.
And it do not need earth wire to earth .
I see. That could be very frustrating.Sorry your not understanding how backwards Thailand's safety is, I could bond one conductor then if a drunk crashes into a power pole and blows the transformer that feeds our village it's a 50/50 chance whether that bonded conductor gets reconnected or the unbonded one.
Edit: just for clarification the phases have been swapped 3 times in the past 5 years
Assuming that you are in North America, you have the wrong type of inverter.how I can i solve this problem.. my deye 8kw Hybrid is EU version if Grid is available both line is 110v but once grid power is off I got a reading of 180v and 40v... The problem we have appliances that runs on 110v with dedicated 110v outlet.. so if we lost the grid and my solar took over I got higher voltage than 110.
I think he have a UK version .Assuming that you are in North America, you have the wrong type of inverter.
You can't use an EU 230v inverter to power 120v appliances. Unless you add a transformer to change the voltage coming out of it.