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Different types of batteries

jamesnewman01377

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I already have two banks of 18650 14s x 100 batteries, with a Growatt SPF 5000, and I just got 7 modules of the SPIM08HP batteries from Battery Hookup that you can build into 48v 12.76kWh module
Can I took all of these batteries together into the same inverter or do I need to purchase another Growatt to separate the battery banks?
 
Battery 1: 100P14S 18650

CAPACITY of Battery 1?

Search of battery hookup for SPIM08HP shows nothing relevant to a 48V battery, so I can't give meaningful advice.

If the two have the same working voltage, number of cells and similar capacity, and each battery has their own BMS, then paralleling the batteries using best practices is possible.

.
 
I’m not sure how to calculate the capacity of the 18650s, haven’t gotten everything finalized, the 18650s is just what started with last year and just finished putting them into packs and gotten hung on the wall.
The SPIM08HP modules are originally 36v, you have to rearrange the cell to build a 48v, there is 60 batteries built into 30 modules in each module. If that makes sense, each battery is actually two batteries, if I got that right.
 
If it's 100P14S, then it's the capacity of the the worst of the 100P "cells."

I absolutely hate seeing people waste their money on used non-LFP chemistry (I'm one too). I mean you basically spent about the same per kWh as you would on brand new LFP from a reputable supplier. These are also used, so you can't be certain they will meet ratings.

"These were used as backup starting power for cold climate generators. Therefore these have not cycled too many times. Likely less than 1 full cycle." - this means they were likely held at a reasonably high state of charge their whole life = a great way to degrade Lithium NMC/NCA/LMO chemistry.

Before you can make any determination, you need the following information:

1) the capacity of battery #1.
2) the capacity of battery #2.

If you don't have the equipment needed to test these components, it's really not the best idea to be working with them.
 
14S100P? That is a lot of parallel strings. Do you have fuse for each string of the battery?
How does it handle if one string is shorted?
 
If it's 100P14S, then it's the capacity of the the worst of the 100P "cells."

I absolutely hate seeing people waste their money on used non-LFP chemistry (I'm one too). I mean you basically spent about the same per kWh as you would on brand new LFP from a reputable supplier. These are also used, so you can't be certain they will meet ratings.

"These were used as backup starting power for cold climate generators. Therefore these have not cycled too many times. Likely less than 1 full cycle." - this means they were likely held at a reasonably high state of charge their whole life = a great way to degrade Lithium NMC/NCA/LMO chemistry.

Before you can make any determination, you need the following information:

1) the capacity of battery #1.
2) the capacity of battery #2.

If you don't have the equipment needed to test these components, it's really not the best idea to be working with them.
What do you suggest to test these batteries, the one bank of 18650s 14s100p is brand new cell, LGDBHE41865, I tested each one, all were around 2600 to 2690, they are getting to be about a year old. I see people testing as a module of batteries with like a icharger x6 to see what each module capacity is before there put together as a 48v unit if that make sense. The second bank of 18650s are used, they are from about 2100 to 3200.
I’m not sure how to test the SPIM08HP modules.
 
And I know now I have wasted a lot of money Messing around with the cell, but I would like to see them work a little bit.
 
What do you suggest to test these batteries, the one bank of 18650s 14s100p is brand new cell, LGDBHE41865, I tested each one, all were around 2600 to 2690, they are getting to be about a year old. I see people testing as a module of batteries with like a icharger x6 to see what each module capacity is before there put together as a 48v unit if that make sense. The second bank of 18650s are used, they are from about 2100 to 3200.
I’m not sure how to test the SPIM08HP modules.

Ah. Good! You should be testing every cell:

2.645Ah * 100 = 265 Ah

And is it 100P14S or is it 14S100P?

100P14S = each "cell" is comprised of 100 cells in parallel. Then those 100 cell "cells" are in series with each other.
14S100P = 100 14S batteries in parallel.

If you built them similar to a Tesla Pack with each cell fused via the nickel bus plate, you did it right.

I completely missed the second bank of 18650. I hope you engaged in best practices and each parallel "cell" is built from a selection of cells that encompass all capacity groups, i.e., each 100P "cell" should have about (2100+3200)/2 = 2650mAh/cell average?

3rd pack:

"60 SPIM08HP cells, busbars, holders, and already in 10s6p 36v configuration" "8-9Ah" each (8.5Ah average)

You bought 7, so you will have 420 8.5Ah cells.

420/14 = 30P

30*8.5 = 255Ah

So unless I made a math error:

1st battery: 265Ah
2nd battery: about the same as #1
3rd (new) battery: 255Ah

Which BMS do you use?
 
100p14s, an each cell is fused with 5 amp glass fuses, I did build them similar to the Tesla Pack, mainly watching YouTube videos like average Joe and a lot of others. There wasn’t much to do between all this Covid stuff and cancer. I’m using the Batrium WatchMon Core with the K9, and thank you for explaining all the amp hours. Do you think I need to test each pack now before putting them together?
 
Yay Batrium!

I would at least confirm each pack's capacity in the system, i.e., if you can discharge each with the inverter and get a reasonably accurate capacity, then go for it.
 
Do you think eventually I could took all 3 48v pack together on one inverter? And how do I figure out how big of a main fuse do I need on 48v pack? Or am I overthinking it, I figure each main battery cable needs some kind of protection. I built performance cars I’ve got fuses on everything.
 
Provided they test well, yes. 3 in parallel each with a fuse between the battery and bus bar.

Is it the best solution? No, but it will probably work. A good way to test the system is to impose a heavy load and use a clamp ammeter to check current through each battery. Hopefully, it's proportional to each battery's capacity.
 
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