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diy solar

diy solar

DIHOOL DC breakers

I bought some. They are quite monstrous and heavy. The toggle action is quite stiff too - no accidentally turning this sucker on.

I just don't have them implemented yet.
 
I have a rebadge version. They are really well made. Just don’t get carried away with tightening the terminal screws because they thread into copper and could strip. They are bigger than you might first envision. They are not UL but they would probably meet their criteria. Just wish they came with an enclosure
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Thanks. I couldn’t find the newer version apparently my search skills are still very novice in comparison 🤣
I ran across the new units a few weeks ago and had saved them in my shopping list. I was looking for something to use for PV switching but decided to go remote instead.
 
There are two white versions (DHM1B and DHM1X) and then the new black one. I got the higher rated DH1MX.
 

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I have a rebadge version. They are really well made. Just don’t get carried away with tightening the terminal screws because they thread into copper and could strip. They are bigger than you might first envision. They are not UL but they would probably meet their criteria. Just wish they came with an enclosure
View attachment 199508
Did the watts version come with the housing?
Edit: I should have read to the end first. Where did you source the enclosure
 
I have a single pole version of the same, they are built like brick shit houses and will hurt your finger/thumb trying to switch them on and off.
 
I have a single pole version of the same, they are built like brick shit houses and will hurt your finger/thumb trying to switch them on and off.
What prompts one’s choice on single pole vs double?
 
Did the watts version come with the housing?
Edit: I should have read to the end first. Where did you source the enclosure
Jigsaw the opening in the cover and file fit. The back of the breaker has some high spots to remove that’ll lower the hight so the cover doesn’t hold to pull down too hard.
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Funny you should ask! Just ordered the 400a version as a way to shut off/shut down the battery pack on our GEM car I'm converting to LifePo4 batteries. It's hard to find anything rated for a 72v nominal system, even just disconnect switches etc.

Screenshot 2024-03-02 at 2.04.54 PM.png

A question I did have though, being that these have "two poles" could someone not use a 200a version, two positive wires (one on each pole) and accomplish a 400a breaker? I only ask because the JK BMS I'm using has two positive wires, which would work nicely for such a scenario but I digress..
 
I was watching youtube (apologies) and these look like the ones the guy from Sota RV Solar was installing vs a class T. Looks like the ones he was using interrupt both legs?
 
I was watching youtube (apologies) and these look like the ones the guy from Sota RV Solar was installing vs a class T. Looks like the ones he was using interrupt both legs?
You need to post a link to the particular episode, or no one will know what you’re referring to.
 
I ordered one of these, the DHM1X-2P. What are the those thin black square rubber pads supposed to be used for?
 
I have a rebadge version. They are really well made. Just don’t get carried away with tightening the terminal screws because they thread into copper and could strip. They are bigger than you might first envision. They are not UL but they would probably meet their criteria. Just wish they came with an enclosure
View attachment 199508
That's a nice looking setup, especially the indicator if voltage difference between battery & system (e.g. need to pre-charge). What's the circuit you used to wire that in, to indicate pre-charge was needed? Or is that only when the button is pushed, it'll light that up (while pre-charging), and when it goes out it's pre-charged?
 
That's a nice looking setup, especially the indicator if voltage difference between battery & system (e.g. need to pre-charge). What's the circuit you used to wire that in, to indicate pre-charge was needed? Or is that only when the button is pushed, it'll light that up (while pre-charging), and when it goes out it's pre-charged?
The original idea was to have two diodes to connect to the two the two inverters so they remain isolated when the breaker is off. The junction of the diodes would be connected to an LED and then to the battery so the light would illuminate when there’s a voltage differential. The problem was is no matter what LED I choose the LED the slowly charge the capacitors in both Inverters! Finally dug around a found an LED indicator lamp for AC and whatever they had used didn’t draw much current yet I could see the lamp though not too bright. In the works with cobbled up parts, is a digital voltage indicator(difference) that uses a mini DC to DC buck converter then a mini isolator to power it. The sense leads draw no detectable current. All of this can fit in the breaker box. Dead bugged it and it works. Rainy day project or round toit to burn it in to look for magic smoke before I install.
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Older thread but I have a question on these.

I got a couple DHM1X-250 double pole breakers from Amazon.

They are rated 1000VDC, 690VAC.
Top terminals are marked line and bottom load but the remarks on the data sheet state that

1) the CB has no polarity and positive and negative can be switched.

2) Cable wiring can be entered at the bottom and exit at the top, or vice versa.

So that reads like they are not polarized but if so, why have line and load markings?

There is another DC only version of these breakers available on Amazon. DH1MX-250. Don't have one if those in front of me but the photo of the face plate on that one isn't marked line and load. Any reason to prefer that version?
 

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