Thanks. I couldn’t find the newer version apparently my search skills are still very novice in comparisonI'd look at the new version, it's built heavier and higher voltage rated. The breaking capacity was higher too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJBD5YT...&colid=IJC9RMFZ4T07&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
I ran across the new units a few weeks ago and had saved them in my shopping list. I was looking for something to use for PV switching but decided to go remote instead.Thanks. I couldn’t find the newer version apparently my search skills are still very novice in comparison![]()
Did the watts version come with the housing?I have a rebadge version. They are really well made. Just don’t get carried away with tightening the terminal screws because they thread into copper and could strip. They are bigger than you might first envision. They are not UL but they would probably meet their criteria. Just wish they came with an enclosure
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What prompts one’s choice on single pole vs double?I have a single pole version of the same, they are built like brick shit houses and will hurt your finger/thumb trying to switch them on and off.
Cheap and I was not building to code.What prompts one’s choice on single pole vs double?
You rebel.Cheap and I was not building to code.
You need to post a link to the particular episode, or no one will know what you’re referring to.I was watching youtube (apologies) and these look like the ones the guy from Sota RV Solar was installing vs a class T. Looks like the ones he was using interrupt both legs?
Other thread on this topic, and the Dihool.
https://diysolarforum.com/threads/an-actual-600a-48v-disconnect-switch.75091/#post-956482
Slide into the top and bottom of the breaker, separate positive and negative.I ordered one of these, the DHM1X-2P. What are the those thin black square rubber pads supposed to be used for?
That's a nice looking setup, especially the indicator if voltage difference between battery & system (e.g. need to pre-charge). What's the circuit you used to wire that in, to indicate pre-charge was needed? Or is that only when the button is pushed, it'll light that up (while pre-charging), and when it goes out it's pre-charged?I have a rebadge version. They are really well made. Just don’t get carried away with tightening the terminal screws because they thread into copper and could strip. They are bigger than you might first envision. They are not UL but they would probably meet their criteria. Just wish they came with an enclosure
View attachment 199508
The original idea was to have two diodes to connect to the two the two inverters so they remain isolated when the breaker is off. The junction of the diodes would be connected to an LED and then to the battery so the light would illuminate when there’s a voltage differential. The problem was is no matter what LED I choose the LED the slowly charge the capacitors in both Inverters! Finally dug around a found an LED indicator lamp for AC and whatever they had used didn’t draw much current yet I could see the lamp though not too bright. In the works with cobbled up parts, is a digital voltage indicator(difference) that uses a mini DC to DC buck converter then a mini isolator to power it. The sense leads draw no detectable current. All of this can fit in the breaker box. Dead bugged it and it works. Rainy day project or round toit to burn it in to look for magic smoke before I install.That's a nice looking setup, especially the indicator if voltage difference between battery & system (e.g. need to pre-charge). What's the circuit you used to wire that in, to indicate pre-charge was needed? Or is that only when the button is pushed, it'll light that up (while pre-charging), and when it goes out it's pre-charged?