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DIHOOL DC breakers

Got the Dihool DHM3Z-320 250A breakers in. These are not marked with either terminal numbers or with line and load sides. The instruction sheet clearly states that they are non polarized and intended to go between the battery and inverter in DC power systems. They are rated 1500Vdc and 40KA, quite impressive. They are 7 1/8 inches hi, 3 wide, and 4 1/8 deep.

The schematic shows the battery on the top terminals and the inverter connected to the bottom terminals which are connected to the movable contacts. So I think that is how these should be wired.

Just as reminder, unfortunately they are not listed so you'll need to choose something else if you're in the US and need to be NEC compliant. They do carry the UKCA and CE marks.
 
View attachment 284164


From web page here:

I will say this appears to be a rebadging company, and this looks curiously the same as the TAIXI breakers that are in the breaker box Will recently panned, as they didn't perform to spec.


edit: now I can't find where he tested the breakers....edit 2 Nada...I must have dreamed it...I was left with the impression I couldn't rely on these breakers beyond on/off, they wouldn't protect the wires?
He removed the video because some people complained
 
Dont see anything on the left side that looks like a door.1000002963.jpg
And the manual indicates that the attachments are external. 1000002960.jpg

So I'm not sure how the aux contacts and shut trip get attached.

It does come with lugs. ID is 0.465 in so it might just fit 4/0.
1000002962.jpg
 
OK that's pretty cool.

Now I wish I had those instead of the DHM1X. Just because that could be useful in a way.

Dang it.
 
They're the same width as the DHM1X but longer and taller.

Just curious, what would you use the shunt trip for on a residential job?
If I hit the "OH $#!!" button (the RSD on the exterior of the house for example) the inverter could not only shut itself down but every battery right at the source.
 
If I hit the "OH $#!!" button (the RSD on the exterior of the house for example) the inverter could not only shut itself down but every battery right at the source.
I have one of these with the shunt trip sitting in a bin waiting to be used for that exact purpose.
SHTF: shut down the inverters, shutdown the mppts, and disconnect the batteries.
I’m planning on automating that with some timer delays.
Someday.
 
On the polarity issue from the previous pages: When using both poles with a battery, current flow is opposite in the two poles. It makes no difference whether in at top or out at top. The arc happens at the contacts and in the arc chute either way.
 
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Personally, I think RSD just reduces reliability, and is a waste of money. Installed hundreds of resi (and commercial) systems without it and never had a customer, first responder or anyone else have an issue.

I hate the idea of having lots of electronics out in the array. Enphase and the other microinverter guys lobbied to get RSD into the Code and suddenly it was a big problem. Of course I'll follow the Code if it's required but no way I'd do RSD if I didn't have to. My advice to anyone pulling a solar permit now is to do a ground mount.

Sorry for the RSD rant.😡

But using that panic button to trip the battery breakers, that might be worth doing. That's where all the stored energy is. Looks like the shunt trip release is available on Amazon for 30 bucks.
 
On the polarity issue from the previous pages: When using both poles with a battery, current flow is opposite in the two poles. It makes no difference whether in at top or out at top. The arc happens at the contacts and in the arc chute either way.
True, but then why is it marked with line and load sides? Something is a bit odd there.

Dihool makes the DHM3Z specifically for the battery to inverter circuit and it has a higher interrupt rating than the DHM1X. And being black it will show less dirt than the white one. 🤣
 
True, but then why is it marked with line and load sides? Something is a bit odd there.

Dihool makes the DHM3Z specifically for the battery to inverter circuit and it has a higher interrupt rating than the DHM1X. And being black it will show less dirt than the white one. 🤣
These are non polarized.

Screenshot_20250314_165221_Chrome.jpg
 
Yep, saw that in the instruction sheet too. But then....why line and load sides? Some reason other than polarization? Not knowing for sure I'm opting for the DHM3Z.
 
Yep, saw that in the instruction sheet too. But then....why line and load sides? Some reason other than polarization? Not knowing for sure I'm opting for the DHM3Z.
It's just convention:

 
I'm sure you're probably right about the DHM1X being nonpolarized. But there can be more to it than convention. If this was a listed breaker and wasn't marked line and load, you would know it was non polarized because the UL White Book requires it to be. It could be marked and still be nonpolarized as apparently some of the midnites are.

As was said in the thread you linked, I would believe Midnite's claims about a listed breaker. But who knows with an unlisted Chinese product? For me theres already a degree of uncertainly around using it at all. I just feel better about using the black ones.🤗
 
I'm sure you're probably right about the DHM1X being nonpolarized. But there can be more to it than convention. If this was a listed breaker and wasn't marked line and load, you would know it was non polarized because the UL White Book requires it to be. It could be marked and still be nonpolarized as apparently some of the midnites are.

As was said in the thread you linked, I would believe Midnite's claims about a listed breaker. But who knows with an unlisted Chinese product? For me theres already a degree of uncertainly around using it at all. I just feel better about using the black ones.🤗
Is there any full size breaker of that capacity rating that is polarized? Generally I've seen them with the smaller mnepv midnite breakers, with the non polarized versions lacking the ++ and -- markings.

 
True, but then why is it marked with line and load sides? Something is a bit odd there.

It was mentioned the arc chutes are a certain way and if charging, the arc chute might not be correct. However, it would be correct for the opposite pole.

It will not make a difference. However, the breaking capability is reduced as only one side is breaking the arc.
Dihool makes the DHM3Z specifically for the battery to inverter circuit and it has a higher interrupt rating than the DHM1X. And being black it will show less dirt than the white one. 🤣

As it is black, the soot and scorch marks won't be as visible either. :ROFLMAO:

Seriously, the black ones have much higher breaking capacity.
 

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