• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

DIY 11kW Bifacial, Rooftop Tiltable, Solis 15kW3ph Hybrid, 28kW LiFePO4

For some reasons, my previous posts cannot be edited. I want to add pictures & correct mis-spelling some massage but couldn't. The "Edit" button just disappeared.

This has been like this for almost a week now.

How to fix that ?


Screenshot 2025-07-03 110445.png
 
Beware of my mistake !!

Luckily that I detected it early before catastrophy, otherwise, it would have caused fire with serious damage. 🔥🔥

2025.06.11 : I just routinely checked on the batt rack and grabbed different parts to see if anything was wrong. Found one batt black wire right at the breaker to inverter was very hot ~100 deg C !!! :eek::eek::eek: While the red wire next to it was normally warm. Reason : the inner layer clear plastic wrap (black insulator outside), which was hard to see, found its way in & crimped between the 95 sq.mm. strands & terminal lug without my noticing. So conductor contact area was dramatically reduced (not sure how much - hard to see). Heat was the result when running at high current, possibly over 100A by that time. That picture was taken 1-2 minutes after the incident with breaker OFF, shown only 70 C.

So I cut this terminal off & re-crimp with new terminal lug. Problem solved, at 70+A current, terminal is at 35 deg C. No abnormal heat detected at this lug again even at 150 A. BTW, I found a hydraulic hose shop nearby who can crimp hydraulic hose, so I weent with this. That's why the crimping look a bit strange than a electrical hexagnal crimper. They both do the job but hydraulic crimping machine require a manual & specific setting to tell the crimper to squeeze the lug down to 15.6mm diameter in my case.


Be ware of that !!! 👀

That terminal lugs sold in the market are normally bottle neck area, especially at higher current. This is due to their small contact area between the lug and breaker's metal mounting pad even with perfect contact. Most breaker brands just give the minimum, probably to keep cost down IMO. Choosing bigger lugs and you will not fit them in the breaker slots. I found this out by observation. At higher (60-70% of max & above) operating current, this area always be a bit hotter than the wire itself, from few degrees or more. Also make sure you tighten the bolts properly, using a torque wrench is better. Do check yours out. 👍👍



97054.jpg

97053.jpg

97055.jpg


Note :
One important thing about using a hydraulic crimper for your wire + terminal lugs. It is not like normal crimping plier for electrical work which crimp in hexagonal shape. This hydraulic crimper will stretch your lugs "LONGER" by quite a bit because of its round shape squeezing in all direction at the same time. Thus the lug wall gets thinner. This might affect your wire current carrying capacity if you leave too small safety margin. Beware of that.

For me, I think the standard crimping plier for electrical work is better.


98153.jpg


Hydraulic crimper :

98155.jpg

98156.jpg

98158.jpg
 
Last edited:
Is this the way to go ?

When I need to add more batt, just connect within the "diagonal" and on the bus-rods ?

As long as the total current drawn not exceeding the capacity of the Cu bus-rods ?

In this case, the very end of each bus-rod where each 95 sq.mm. cable connected and feed to DC MCCB, will handle the highest current ?

So this connection is to ensure a good load/current balance among the batteries ?

I can find out when everything connected and measure each batt's current drawn, will report back.

Why not bolt the busbars directly to the battery? Cool project you have!
 
Why not bolt the busbars directly to the battery? Cool project you have!

I plan to have 4 rack-type batts on the shelves. So, physically it won't quite fit to have the bus bars directly bolt to each batt. Unless, I have to custom bend the bus bars to shape & locations of each terminals. Do you have any idea in mind, On_The_Road ? Pls share, some sketch would be nice.

This set-up is in my open carport, with PVs on the roof above all these. Tropical zone like my house always have pests, bugs, snakes, millipedes, snails, cat etc. and very humid year round. So the batt rack needs enclosure for safety. Still need to tidy up the works.

Thanks for your comment.


94796_0.jpg

97350_0.jpg

97352.jpg
 
Last edited:
After a bit of thought, I will connect an EV charger to the grid. It will be "inside" the CT so the inverter will show the power as "import" but the power will not pass through the inverter so no battery power will be used. If I can export, the car will use the power before it gets exported. If I can't export then I also can't use the excess solar to charge the car. Charging would not 'just' be on excess solar but will supplement with grid power unless I buy a fancy changer with a CT that can adjust the power to not import power.

For me this is a couple of years down the road. Our car is only a few years old so it's too soon to replace it.

I don't know if we have the option for Time of Use but that would be desirable. Simply charging at night from the grid would be the easiest, especially if we can just export excess solar. It has been a year since we applied to export power. Haven't heard a thing.
 
The issue of busbars with holes reducing the ampacity of the busbar has captured my interest. It occurs to me that calculating the cross-sectional area at the hole and using that to determine ampacity ignores the fact that it's not an empty hole. The hole is covered by a copper lug which replaces some of the area lost to the hole. Let's say the busbar is 20mm wide by 6mm thick. That's 120mm of cross section. Drill an 8mm hole and you've reduced the cross section by 48mm, but the lug would add back around maybe 16mm of copper so the reduction is only 32 sq mm. And right beside the hole there is more than 120 mm of cross section because there is the added area of the lug. Perhaps 32 sq mm. So how much of a reduction in ampacity does the hole plus a lug actually require? I'll bet it's not very much. Ampacity is determine by temperature, and copper is a good conductor of heat as well as electricity, so yes, maybe the slice right at the hole gets hotter, but there is additional material right next to it to help absorb the heat.

I don't know what the literature says about this. I'll be checking into that.
 
The issue of busbars with holes reducing the ampacity of the busbar has captured my interest. It occurs to me that calculating the cross-sectional area at the hole and using that to determine ampacity ignores the fact that it's not an empty hole. The hole is covered by a copper lug which replaces some of the area lost to the hole. Let's say the busbar is 20mm wide by 6mm thick. That's 120mm of cross section. Drill an 8mm hole and you've reduced the cross section by 48mm, but the lug would add back around maybe 16mm of copper so the reduction is only 32 sq mm. And right beside the hole there is more than 120 mm of cross section because there is the added area of the lug. Perhaps 32 sq mm. So how much of a reduction in ampacity does the hole plus a lug actually require? I'll bet it's not very much. Ampacity is determine by temperature, and copper is a good conductor of heat as well as electricity, so yes, maybe the slice right at the hole gets hotter, but there is additional material right next to it to help absorb the heat.

I don't know what the literature says about this. I'll be checking into that.


Interesting idea you have here, Haysdb 👍

If the bus bars have large safety factor, there should not be much of a problem. If not, everything counts.

In my case that I use hose clamps + battery stranded wires to wrap around round busrods do not have this problem. No holes drilled, no lugs (normally a bit small for the amperage, even with the correct size = a bit warm at high amps), no worry. Plus the clamping force for each hose clamp should be adequate at ~100 lbs for each 1" round, 8-mm (~5/16") wide clamp. I use 3 * SS304 clamps per joint.


I googled clamping force with normal SS304 hose clamp and found this below. Even at 50% of this value for safety, 50 lbs clamping force for each clamp, and I intend to use 2-3 clamps per joint. I think that is very good :

From actual uses, at 180A charging/discharging, the off-the-shelf thick terminal lugs (#95) is a bit warm to the touch due to its limited copper contact area. Compare to what I use, hose clamps to wrap long strands of copper evenly onto the busrods, contact area can exceed 4-5X (~3") that of commercial lugs. They will never be bottlenecks or hotspots. But it is harder to install, more time consuming & not off-the-shelf. I personally trust this clamping method more than lugs, especially at high amps everyday, anytime, for decades to come. Bear in mind, it might not fit those who have local regulations to follow.

Picture of how I wrap my lithium spot welder probe working at ~1,800-2,000A. It is powerful enough to weld 0.20mm thick copper sheet.

398256(1).jpg


Untitled picture.png
 
"If the bolted connection includes a copper lug with equal or greater cross section, there’s negligible impact on ampacity, and potentially even a slight improvement due to added mass and cooling surface."

"Properly torqued, clean copper-copper contact with anti-oxidation compound yields excellent conduction, often lower resistance than the original busbar due to increased effective cross-section."

"NEC and IEC don't directly derate busbar ampacity for bolt holes"
 
I think they already included bolt holes effect in the busbars current capacity calculation and with plenty of headroom & safety factor, it will be OK.

In my case, each busbar is >1m long to accomodate 4 rack batteries, it is a new build, everything is built as-you-go DIYing. I don't want to risk a flat copper bars drillings with hundreds of amps running continuously, 24/7. So I chose solid copper bars with no drillings. I believe the round busrods here are capable of 300+Adc continuous current running for a long time, with proper current distribution. I have 2 batts now with possibility of adding more for future EV(s) charging. So, I do not have to modify or change the busrods for the added batts. It's well worth it.
 
Last edited:
The number I find for busbar ampacity is 2A per mm of cross section, so you are definitely on the safe side with 200mm of copper.
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top