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diy solar

DIY 48v 280ah Build - Blowout/Fail

The flat faces of the bare cells are just not designed to withstand the internal gas pressure that can be reached, all by themselves without some extra support.
To do so would require a much larger, heavier, and more expensive cell housing for every individual cell.

The solution suggested by the cell manufacture is to clamp the cells as a group by surrounding the whole battery within a rigid structure that the customer has to provide. There is a great deal of misunderstanding about all this, and the literature often translated into a "form of English" is often not very helpful.

The idea that springs or rubber bands or ratchet straps (or whatever) to apply some king of soft continuous squeezing action, may help a bit, but is not really a solution, especially for the end cells.
What is really needed is something very flat, stiff, and completely unyielding across the flat faces of the cells.

Rather like blowing up a balloon constrained in a cardboard box.
The balloon cannot resist swelling under increased increased pressure by itself, but the cardboard box will.

If you want to stop a balloon from bursting, just wrapping a string around it will not work.
 
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To compress or not is really a can of worms. If the application was mobile, then it really would be a no brainer to compress the cells. I think a lot of the manufacturers recommendation has to do with the automotive industry. The EV's definitely need the compression.

I am running 128 cells non compressed and have not seen any bulging or distortion so I just do not see myself compressing my cells because it would not benefit me. I think that my cells are going to wear out due to age rather than if I would have compressed them. There are a lot of opinions and I respect others. If someone wants to compress their cells and hope for some increased life, then that is great. Maybe 20 years down the road I will change my opinion.
I didn’t compress mine and haven’t seen any detrimental effects yet.
 
I fitted thirty 50Ahr Winston cells into a single filing cabinet drawer and have 5Kwh @ 100v.
These were clamped between two 6mm thick pieces of steel checker-plate.
That was the old original battery.

The new battery will be 15 x 280Ahr cells stacked 5 x 3 into one filing cabinet drawer.
With two drawers I will then have thirty cells and 28 Kwh @ 100v.
This is still a work in progress. It will have steel clamping plates as well, just need to go out and buy the steel to do it.
Why 15s?
 
When you put things back together suggest a multimeter to check polarity. Had a cell in one of my purchases where the cell labels were reversed.
 
Rather like blowing up a balloon constrained in a cardboard box.
The balloon cannot resist swelling under increased increased pressure by itself, but the cardboard box will.

If you want to stop a balloon from bursting, just wrapping a string around it will not work.
Seems like the perfect analogy to me.
 
When you put things back together suggest a multimeter to check polarity. Had a cell in one of my purchases where the cell labels were reversed.
That issue would be picked up first few milliseconds of connecting the balance leads.
 
At the end of the day, it's two separate batteries that went bad.
With the commonality of a wretch strap.

I guess I’m more curious at the first battery and how it didn’t fail sooner. Maybe SOC was always low and then pushed higher once second battery was commissioned, as a way to top balance the full system.
 
Don't compress your cells. They are going to last so long on a solar system they will age out before they fail by expansion. I don't understand why people still do this.

As other stated the failure is likely short circuit between the cells. You need non-conductive dividers between the cells, don't just rely on the plastic.
 
Don't compress your cells. They are going to last so long on a solar system they will age out before they fail by expansion. I don't understand why people still do this.

As other stated the failure is likely short circuit between the cells. You need non-conductive dividers between the cells, don't just rely on the plastic.

Why would two separate battery packs have nearly identical failures?

If the condition is overvoltage, why didn't his BMS trip?
 
I dis-assembled my Banks/Cells last night. In my un-wiring and thinking through my setup, looks like I mistakenly had/have a Negative battery lead parallel to the BMS B- / P-, through each Battery Breaker. Thus bypassing the ability of the BMS to disconnect the cells upon over charging.
This was late last night. So still more later. But I think its making more sense now that the problem is "Me". I messed this up on both Banks.
More to follow.
I appreciate all the constructive comments and help. With my work schedule, It will be a few days to prove the above true.
 
Do JK BMSs have a shutdown switch to test proper install? My Overkills have a switch where you can manually shutoff a battery bank.
 
Yes, you can do that through the app (both charge and discharge independently).

I'm not talking about software. I'm talking about having a physical port on the BMS that allows a mechanical switch to turn it on/off.

Overkill has both software/app control like you mentioned and a physical switch port. I can walk down to my setup and flip all my batteries off without a disconnect. (I have a disconnect anyway for redundancy)
 
I completed my DIY build(s) a few days ago. 32 Cells total, 16S, 280ah EVE Cells, JK BMS(s) B2A24S20P, Growatt 5000ES units, Solar Assistant.
All electronics appear working as designed.
My 1st 16S battery build running the past month, maybe past 30-40 days. Clean, no observed issues. JK Active balancing normal. My 2nd 16S battery build put together and online this past Friday.
All looked clean, running normal.
I walked out to the Shop (external garage) and Growatt fans noise running normally. All indications looked fine from a 6-7 ft distance. As I get closer I can smell this funky smell. Strange smell, liquid on the lower battery cells. Vented cells I believe.
Both battery banks appear as blownout/swollen/fail cells #9/#10.
Weird thing, all electronics (Growatts & JK BMS) running and reporting normal. JK units actively balancing. Growatts actively charging. No fire, but massive heat around Cells #9/#10. Those cells swollen, Cell #9 lower/Bank2 vented. No breakers tripped (Nader 125Amp) on either bank. No actual explosion.
I immediately shutdown system.
Still Assessing damage. Possibly wait until they cool down. Waiting to disconnect and evaluate.
Very lucky no fire.

Damn, damn, damn. Expensive fail.
Need to assess and decide what I did wrong. Obvisously something.

BANK-1 Upper & BANK-2 Lower (Before Event)
View attachment 170284
BANK-1 (1st Build) Before Event
View attachment 170280
BANK-1 After Event (Swelling Cell#9)
View attachment 170281
BANK-2 Lower (AFTER Event) Cell #9/#10/#11
View attachment 170285

Constructive comments appreciated, anything obvious noted?
I dont see any non conductive material seperating each cell. You cannot rely on that thin blue plastic. The shelf is wood, so non conductive. The straps also have metal contacting the cells.
Check BMS paramaters to make SURE they are correct. Otherwise, it looks like a short or faulty cells.
 
I dont see any non conductive material seperating each cell. You cannot rely on that thin blue plastic. The shelf is wood, so non conductive. The straps also have metal contacting the cells.
Check BMS paramaters to make SURE they are correct. Otherwise, it looks like a short or faulty cells.
It comes down to "Mis-Wired" BMS - Battery leads. And then overcharging and BMS unable to stop charging.

Here's a photo of the blownout cell from Lower Bank. Cell #9

IMG_2227.jpg
IMG_2228.jpg
IMG_2229.jpg
 

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