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DIY battery box best practices (true DIY not bought box)

what way would you have done it now that you've built one?
Now i was trying to figure out how to fit more batteries into the same space so i am sketching in freecad a system where the cells are stacked vertically and side to side with each other. Is more complicated but a very efficient way of using the space.
 
Well, after getting the cells and doing a top balance, the most simple thing is to buy one of those metal shelf racks strong enough for the weight of the batteries. In each level you put 16 cells with some insulated material in between. Depending on the space it could be one row with 16 cells or two rows with 8 cells each. Wrap them around with kapton tape, connect the busbars, connect the bms, dc breaker, tfuse and crimp and connect the main wires. If you are going for something really simple you can just lay the elements on top of the shelf level and screw them down to the surface so they dont move being sure that any wire wont touch the metal. That's it. Cheap, simple and easy.

If you want to do something more complicated you are going to need more tools and materials. This is just one example. I welded and fixed to a brick wall a structure of 50x50x2 square metal tubing. On each level there is one row of 16 cells. I 3d printed compression plates designed to hold steel bars as reinforcement. With 4 stainless steel m8 threaded rods, 4 strong tension springs and some nuts and bolts i made the compression fixture. Then i made 3d printed parts designed to hold the elements to the threaded rods that are doing the compression. Dc breaker, Tfuse, bms, and connections.

View attachment 317634
Oh...that's what doing it right looks like! That is so cool, thanks for sharing. I can see now that having a 3D printer would be fun to play with.
what do you have between cells?
I assume you made the small bus bars for the 2 into 1 connections from the bms to your battery packs?
Is the t-class fuse connected directly to your DC breaker?
Can you provide a link to your large DC breaker please? Would like to learn more.
Also, do you protect this with anything like a cover? This looks like it is inside a house maybe?
 
Oh...that's what doing it right looks like! That is so cool, thanks for sharing. I can see now that having a 3D printer would be fun to play with.
what do you have between cells?
I assume you made the small bus bars for the 2 into 1 connections from the bms to your battery packs?
Is the t-class fuse connected directly to your DC breaker?
Can you provide a link to your large DC breaker please? Would like to learn more.
Also, do you protect this with anything like a cover? This looks like it is inside a house maybe?
I am not sure that is 'right', but it works for me. I made a thread asking members of the forum if they could see things i needed to improve and they helped me a lot with some details.
I used 3240 epoxy sheets in between the cells.
Yes i made the small busbars to make a good connection with the bms.
Yes the Tfuse is directly connected to the Dc breaker. Is simpler that way.
Is the Dihool 160A dc breaker you can find it easily in aliexpress.
I have not put a cover on them yet, this is a big warehouse, i only need to blow some compressed air on them once in a while to keep them clean for now. As i said i will probably rebuild it differently.
 
I am not sure that is 'right', but it works for me. I made a thread asking members of the forum if they could see things i needed to improve and they helped me a lot with some details.
I used 3240 epoxy sheets in between the cells.
Yes i made the small busbars to make a good connection with the bms.
Yes the Tfuse is directly connected to the Dc breaker. Is simpler that way.
Is the Dihool 160A dc breaker you can find it easily in aliexpress.
I have not put a cover on them yet, this is a big warehouse, i only need to blow some compressed air on them once in a while to keep them clean for now. As i said i will probably rebuild it differently.
how would you do differently?
I could only find their 200A or larger breaker in USA:
 
Springs.


Packs:

IMG-9872.jpg


IMG-9870.jpg
 
how would you do differently?
I could only find their 200A or larger breaker in USA:
Is hard to describe with just words, but i would stack the 16 cells packs vertically, side to side with each other with the terminals facing in the front.
I would use more 3d printed trickery to make the attachments for all the elements.
 
Is hard to describe with just words, but i would stack the 16 cells packs vertically, side to side with each other with the terminals facing in the front.
I would use more 3d printed trickery to make the attachments for all the elements.
Is that so you could stack more packs vertically in the same space you are using horizontally for the packs you have?
 
Is that so you could stack more packs vertically in the same space you are using horizontally for the packs you have?
Yes and not only that, i would change the position of the busbars too making it much better. Right now they are vertical at the center, i could change them to horizontal right above the battery packs and under the inverters. I would look so much better and be more efficient. Also it could be much easier to build an enclosure for the batteries.
system1.jpg
 
I don't use no stinking springs. :)

Springs will compress and allow the cell center to deform over time.

The idea behind compression fixtures is to hold the cell in the original form with minimal expansion in the middle which could damage the jelly roll. I use foam. I started the original foam thread, it was my very first post and they haven't been able to shut me up since. 🤣

I use threaded rod as a hard stop with 3mm Poron sourced from Ebay. Originally I used neoprene in the house bank but switched to Poron. One member mentioned lately the seller will cut it to size for you. I just use a paper cutter like you used back in school.

I did a video on how I do it. I do recommend a minimum of 3/8" thick plate, I prefer aluminum but steel will work. I source aluminum bar stock in the 8" width which is just right for prismatic cells.


If you watch the videos on my shop build, it will show how I did the double wide packs in the shop cabinet.

I did pull 16 cells out last spring from the house bank that had been in use for 2 years. Those were replaced with the cells in the video. One of these days I will start running some capacity tests on packs of 4 cells to see how much capacity loss the cells have lost. Those cells were Grade B and not matched but I did test them before install and new the cells were just below stated capacity by a few Ah. I will say this much, when you use foam and it has been in compression for a long time, the cells don't just come right off when you want to disassemble. I did check the neoprene foam to see if it did expand back and it did but took a few hours to return to original thickness.

Every member will do something different. You will have plenty of reading to do before making your decision on how to DIY your compression method should you choose to go that route. If this will be installed in a RV, compression is a must. Several threads over the years where members had a fire in an RV pack when compression was not used. Most assembled batteries out there do not utilize compression, most will just let the cells expand with a FR4 sheet between cells. I've actually seen videos where no compression was used and cells just put into a box and when a cell was attempted to be removed, the cells had expanded so tight a cell could not be removed. The fixture had to be taken apart to remove cells.
 
I don't use no stinking springs. :)

Springs will compress and allow the cell center to deform over time.
Thank you for sharing your design and making video of Poron flammability, I'm actually going to use Poron 5mm spacers between cells- besides heat insulation they should allow cells to expand 'in place': designs with springs apply pressure from the sides and when cells expand due to charge they would need to physically move adjacent cells in the string - or be compressed more than intended.
 
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I don't use no stinking springs. :)

Springs will compress and allow the cell center to deform over time.

The idea behind compression fixtures is to hold the cell in the original form with minimal expansion in the middle which could damage the jelly roll. I use foam. I started the original foam thread, it was my very first post and they haven't been able to shut me up since. 🤣

I use threaded rod as a hard stop with 3mm Poron sourced from Ebay. Originally I used neoprene in the house bank but switched to Poron. One member mentioned lately the seller will cut it to size for you. I just use a paper cutter like you used back in school.

I disagree with the lack of a spring... at least with the larger 314ah cell... I haven't read the datasheet of the 280ah cells or smaller... they do list the pressure and compression amounts in the datasheet. But the thing is as the cells expand and press outwards the amount of tension will increase with a static tension like you are doing. With springs that start out soft and grow stiffer as they compress ... so when the cells are at minimum expansion there isnt as much force to counter it... as the cells expand the springs press back harder....

Now we aren't talking about much movement at all.. Just 1mm at most per cell and the poron takes up the vast majority of that...but you want the poron to not be totally flattened so the spring let's things give a bit more without letting anything be loose... and if you have a static load so the cells expand and bottom out against the plates I would imagine that could cause damage due to overpressure...

What I do not get is why you say the springs will allow the centers deform over time...

And for the record either method is probably enough so that the age of the cells will be more detrimental than the difference in the two methods.....

And all of this has me getting out my old college book on statics and dynamics to check the math... yes that dusty 30 year old book has some good stuff in it still.


@Zwy what torque do you use and do you start while the SOC is 5d0% or some other value?
 
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With my batteries being stationary, I don't have any type of fixture.
But if I were building a mobile battery, I would definitely have them fixed in place.
Mine aren't going to move, unless there's a major earthquake. But at that point, they will be buried in the middle of the debris pile, anyway.
 
With my batteries being stationary, I don't have any type of fixture.
But if I were building a mobile battery, I would definitely have them fixed in place.
Mine aren't going to move, unless there's a major earthquake. But at that point, they will be buried in the middle of the debris pile, anyway.


What size are your cells?
 
I disagree with the lack of a spring... at least with the larger 314ah cell... I haven't read the datasheet of the 280ah cells or smaller... they do list the pressure and compression amounts in the datasheet. But the thing is as the cells expand and press outwards the amount of tension will increase with a static tension like you are doing. With springs that start out soft and grow stiffer as they compress ... so when the cells are at minimum expansion there isnt as much force to counter it... as the cells expand the springs press back harder....

Now we aren't talking about much movement at all.. Just 1mm at most per cell and the poron takes up the vast majority of that...but you want the poron to not be totally flattened so the spring let's things give a bit more without letting anything be loose...
from the 314Ah cell doc posted here: "The product generates expansion force during use, and the expansion force is about 60000 N when the cell capacity attenuates to 60% under the test conditions of 15 mm steel plate + 0.0 mm GAP (the space for cells to expand). Customers shall consider the reliability of structural strength in the product design process, and it is suggested to reserve 2.0 mm ~ 2.5mm expansion space while grouping the cells." So I'd go with thicker than 3mm Poron based on that paragraph. I also think for springs to work as intended the cells between the plates would have to be able to move freely as their combined expansion can only be absorbed by the springs. Since that is not likely to happen the cells would get over-compressed.
 
from the 314Ah cell doc posted here: "The product generates expansion force during use, and the expansion force is about 60000 N when the cell capacity attenuates to 60% under the test conditions of 15 mm steel plate + 0.0 mm GAP (the space for cells to expand). Customers shall consider the reliability of structural strength in the product design process, and it is suggested to reserve 2.0 mm ~ 2.5mm expansion space while grouping the cells." So I'd go with thicker than 3mm Poron based on that paragraph. I also think for springs to work as intended the cells between the plates would have to be able to move freely as their combined expansion can only be absorbed by the springs. Since that is not likely to happen the cells would get over-compressed.


Doing reading seems like i might need 6mm poron for the 314ah cells... and the springs.... and i already intended to sit them on slick ABS plastic so the cells can move around....
 
Doing reading seems like i might need 6mm poron for the 314ah cells... and the springs.... and i already intended to sit them on slick ABS plastic so the cells can move around....
they also require not to exceed 10,000N force (39psi) to avoid cell damage. I understand it the cell squeezed between 2 hard surfaces that won't move is capable of developing self destructing expansion force during charge.

Foam here provides another advantage- the box can be potentially made without compression rods and simply squeezed before assembly so the Poron spacers would serve as those springs.
 
Yes and not only that, i would change the position of the busbars too making it much better. Right now they are vertical at the center, i could change them to horizontal right above the battery packs and under the inverters. I would look so much better and be more efficient. Also it could be much easier to build an enclosure for the batteries.
View attachment 317675
Looks amazing. Also looks like you built 5 packs and decided, "I give up - I'm buying pre-built!". That is an amazing setup. Security camera too. Is this a business of some kind? looks like you're adding a 4th inverter wow.
 
Doing reading seems like i might need 6mm poron for the 314ah cells... and the springs.... and i already intended to sit them on slick ABS plastic so the cells can move around....
4701-40 3mm seems like the sweet spot, pretty difficult to get them to dangerously high pressure levels, so plenty of safety margin as the cells age.


Screenshot_20250801_230933_Chrome.jpg
 

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I did a video on how I do it. I do recommend a minimum of 3/8" thick plate, I prefer aluminum but steel will work. I source aluminum bar stock in the 8" width which is just right for prismatic cells.

thanks for sharing the video - enjoyed it.
 
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Looks amazing. Also looks like you built 5 packs and decided, "I give up - I'm buying pre-built!". That is an amazing setup. Security camera too. Is this a business of some kind? looks like you're adding a 4th inverter wow.
I bought the 3 server rack batteries first and then decided to diy them for half the price.
Yes this is my workshop but it has an appartment in a second level too where i live.
 
My future DIY battery box. Plan to put 60 kWh in it, BMS outside the climate-controlled environment.
This will go outside, so roof with drip lip to keep water out.
Refrigeration unit keeps it cool, battery heaters keep it warm.

1754123775261.png

(file photo)
 
Just don't do it.
DIY batteries lead the way on home losses here on the forum.
That is not cheap.
 
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