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Diy battery warmer-Seedling Warmer

Yurtdweller

Solar Enthusiast
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Nov 23, 2020
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USA
Diy battery warmer-Seedling Warmer

I'm in East-Central Texas. I recently acquired a pre-built battery pack of 4 LiFePo4 prismatic cells @ 12v, 100ah, with a Daly 100a smart BMS. I had been considering buying a warmer, but we rarely(until this week) see sub-freezing temps where I am. If it does get below freezing, it is usually only at night. My thinking was, if it does get that low, it is not during the charging part of the day, anyway. Oh, was I wrong! So, just one day before the forecast storm, I decided I needed to get a warmer, asap. I have been dealing with a loved one's health emergency, and did not realize just how bad the storm would be until the last minute. So, one day to order and receive? I go to Amazon. This is what I settled on. The BN-Link Heat Mat & Thermostat. It is meant to be put under a tray of seedlings. It is a thin, fairly rigid plastic mat with no obvious ridges from heating elements. Just thin, tough, and flat. I opted for the 10" x 20.75" model, running at 20 watts. It is a two-piece product. The thermostat, with digital readout and temperature probe is one component. It plugs into a wall outlet(inverter). It also has an output outlet on it, with a standard grounded plug outlet. The heat mat simply plugs right into that.
The instructions indicate that the thermostat can handle loads up to 1000 watts.
Digital indicator shows actual probe temperature while operating, as well as indicating whether the unit is currently warming or idle. I have the pad under a piece of inch thick foam, and my pack sits on top of that. I have an insulating blanket over the whole thing. I live in an uninsulated yurt, and temps reached -14°c. The pack never froze up, and I was able to charge at .45C(my system's maximum capacity) in sub-freezing temperatures. I also put my drone batteries under the blanket to preserve them. I have been using this for four days now, with zero issues. I did, of course, fiddle with the temp settings a bit, to maximize power savings while keeping the pack right around 10°c(this is the temp that will restart the bms after a LTD. The thermostat-reported temperatures are right in line with the bms-reported temperatures. The thermostat and the pad come with generous cord length. I am able to keep the readout outside of the thermal blanket to read and adjust it easily. When I do the final assembly, I will tuck everything into my home-made power center, and insulate with foam board. Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with this company and will receive no consideration from them regarding this review. If permitted, and if requested, I will post a link. Btw, price: $32 USD.
 

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I got the same pads and controller.
Made a ply exterior with 1.5” Dow interior battery box. 2-300ah Jitas in series. Used two pads for redundancy in case one failed.
Tested in cold shed at 14f. Set box t-stat at 41f. Held perfect for 48 hours. Used 168 watts per day. These numbers where almost perfect to the heat loss calculation I did. As a builder I learned the heat loss formulas (easy) and applied them to the small box:). Worked!
Now I’m doing one using a 24 volt stat, two 12 volt pads in series as this system will not use inverter and will allow inverter to be shut off saving watts while vacant. Also getting a bulb type mechanical stat that would not draw 3watts and save even more battery power.
Finally- I’m getting mechanical stats rated at 40a dc that I can set to disconnect solar input to stop input to charge controller in case all else fails and temp dips below freezing as this would stop any vacant time low temp charging . Must baby and protect batteries as they are pricy:). Also , the least power used to do it is the best.
More coming and pictures if I can.
Even built a solar box (exterior). Holds battery box, inverter, charge controller, combiner box all in one. Will measure the box temp with my Victron Dongle to see if the components add enough intrinsic heat to keep it in the 30f range?
We have common -10 to 20f hear in upper Michigan. Yikes/and snow!
Glad to discover I’ve been on a good path. My neighbor also is doing the same.
I’ll share what I learn ( old teacher type)
All the best!
 
I’m new to all this. Googled to find forum with info on designs and components. So many ideas to review and learn.
I am enjoying learning different approaches and sharing my ideas and outcomes.
After some revisions, good answers should be wide spread.
One discovery is that using Victron smart charge controller plus other parts a person could build in a low temp shut down. I thought it possible but never knew how.
My trouble is I just bought a midnight solar Classic controller so stuck finding an add on low temp safe charge ( heated box) and shut down system.
 
There's another thread here in the last couple of days we were talking about this...
Found it... a whole thread on the subject...
 
I did a similar set up of 10 17.5 watt pads under my 16 4D sla's on a thermostat in an outside insulated cabinet. 175 watt draw when running. keeps my batts at 70+ in sub freezing. It does run continuous below 35 degrees
 
The main reason for high energy use is insulation. Insulate better and use less power. Dial down heat to 40-50 and use even less power. If you have lots of power to spare then these suggestions are mute.
 
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