DIY Battery with EG4-LL and LV6048

[Johnmahon]

Greetings,

With reference to @Will Prowse youtube video that was recently posted (

), I've purchased the same equipment. Due for delivery late July, 2022. Watts247.com's LV6048 and SignatureSolar.com's EG4-LL 48V 100AH rack mounted batteries (x3).

Here is where I am hoping someone can help me out. I have a grid tie home solar (15Kwh) system that produces more than 100Kwh per day (here in sunny Arizona). So, what I am wanting to do is charge these batteries from the grid tied solar system on my home during the day (when I am producing a ton of power) through the LV6048, using the utility priority configurations available within the inverter settings, and then use the batteries to charge my Tesla at night (until the batteries are depleted with each discharge). Granted, with only 3 batteries, I will get 50-60 miles per charge per day, but this is fine for my use case. I only drive about 30 miles per day on average. And I can always add more batteries to the bank as time and budget allow increasing distance.

I also subscribe to a time of use plan with my utility company, where electricity is very expensive during the hot afternoons (2pm-8pm) but from about 8am-6pm, I am producing enough power from my roof mounted system, that I can charge the EG4-LL's during the day, even during high peak hours for free, then use the harvested battery storage at night when I am home for the night. Doubling up on free usage.

Can you program the LV6048 to charge the batteries during a set time period (during sunlight hours) and then discharge the batteries during a set time period (later at night when I am home)? I basically want to charge the batteries during a set time frame, and discharge the batteries during a set time frame. Is this possible? Or, would there be a work around if not specifically programmable using the LCD display functions?

Keep in mind, the batteries and the LV6048 will NOT be tied into my grid tie solar system, as this has already been inspected and approved by the utility company and cannot be tampered with. I will be using the home's grid tie system during the day via the LV6048 to charge the battery bank using the utility as the primary setting. Then, I will use the AC out from the inverter at night to charge the Tesla. There will be no solar arrays connected to the LV6048 whatsoever.

Thanks for any advise you may have!

Sincerely,

John Mahon

 

[sunshine_eggo]

TOU?

2-8pm?

SRP?

I like your idea, but I don't even see that the LV6048 keeps the time, let alone a means of programming charging and discharging based on time.

Could you rig a timer to connect/disconnect the AC input to the LV?

 

[timselectric]

I think that it's a solid plan. But, I'm not sure if a timer is available in the settings of that model.

Could you rig a timer to connect/disconnect the AC input to the LV?

This is a great way to go.

 

[Johnmahon]

TOU?

2-8pm?

SRP?

I like your idea, but I don't even see that the LV6048 keeps the time, let alone a means of programming charging and discharging based on time.

Could you rig a timer to connect/disconnect the AC input to the LV?

Can you recommend a timer? Thanks for the dialogue!

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Intermatic water heater timers use L1, L2, N and G, so that would seem to be a good option.

 

[timselectric]

I'm thinking about a photo cell, located in a shady spot. So that it would have to be very bright outside to trigger it. Have it control a relay or contactor.
This way, it's dependent on true productivity. And not activated on a rainy morning.

 

[Johnmahon]

do you think this device would work if I wanted to control ir

Intermatic water heater timers use L1, L2, N and G, so that would seem to be a good option.

Do you think this device would work if I wanted to control it from my iPhone: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VS7SRHN/

Thanks for your advice!

 

[Shimmy]

Those timers are rated for 40A resisitive, so it might be a bit sketchy switching the inverter, depending on how it manages things.

Personally, I would just add some separate 120VAC:48VDC chargers-- The 17A Signature Solar unit would do the job with two or three, but I am sure you could find a cheaper option. You could use your smart relay to control them easily enough.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

do you think this device would work if I wanted to control ir

Do you think this device would work if I wanted to control it from my iPhone: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VS7SRHN/

Thanks for your advice!

No. It doesn't appear to support split phase.

Those timers are rated for 40A resisitive, so it might be a bit sketchy switching the inverter, depending on how it manages things.

Given that it's targeting the pump market, they publish that it's good for 2hp.

Inverter/chargers generally pull from AC-in staring at 0 and ramping up.

Still, not a good option.

 

[timselectric]

do you think this device would work if I wanted to control ir

Do you think this device would work if I wanted to control it from my iPhone: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VS7SRHN/

Thanks for your advice!

Yes, that should work just fine. But it's a bit expensive for what you get. A simple relay could be controlled by a photo-cell or any wifi switch. Like this one.....

TWTADE/JQX-62F-2Z Coil Voltage AC 110V 80A DPDT Electronmagnetic Relay,High Power Relay AC 110V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCJFGL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_5EDB88RTV9AZXEEQM3H1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And one of these......

RODOT 16A WiFi Smart Switch, Universal DIY Module, tuya Smart Switch, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, FCC Certified, No Hub Required, Compatible with SmartThings(2-Pack). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0982W56ZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_FNWWWEFRGVDT2K5FV9C7

Actually, you could just wire the smart switch to the inverter power switch, using an ice cube relay.
This would be the cheapest and simplest solution.

 

[timselectric]

It doesn't appear to support split phase.

It only has to control the two hots.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

It only has to control the two hots.

I don't know if you're right or wrong, but that unit has L1, N and L2 on the input unlike some other split phase models. I would prefer a timer that accommodates neutral on that basis.

 

[timselectric]

I don't know if you're right or wrong, but that unit has L1, N and L2 on the input unlike some other split phase models. I would prefer a timer that accommodates neutral on that basis.

The only time that a neutral is switched, is in a transfer switch, and then only in certain circumstances.

 

[Johnmahon]

Yes, that should work just fine. But it's a bit expensive for what you get. A simple relay could be controlled by a photo-cell or any wifi switch. Like this one.....

Thanks... It is set to come in on Monday. Once I get the batteries and the Inverter installed (late July) - I'll be sure to post an update. Any other information you can think of, please let me know... Appreciate the wisdom on the forum!

 

[timselectric]

It's a very simple DIY setup. You shouldn't have any problems. But if you have any more questions, there's always someone here who will be happy to help.
I'm looking forward to hearing how well this works for you.

 

[Johnmahon]

It only has to control the two hots.

@timselectric - with reference to this wiring diagram for the relay timer, it looks as though only L1 and L2 are controlled by the relay. Which makes sense based on your comment of only controlling the hot leads. So, do you just wire the N and Ground direct to the inverter from the breaker panel, and use the timer as the relay for L1 and L2? It would make sense to me that cutting off the hot leads (L1 and L2) would disable any power to the inverter during a set time, so the inverter would provide power to the load from the batteries only (in a sense, much like a power outage).

In my application, the water heater seen in the diagram becomes the inverter.

Is this assumption correct?

 

[timselectric]

@timselectric - with reference to this wiring diagram for the relay timer, it looks as though only L1 and L2 are controlled by the relay. Which makes sense based on your comment of only controlling the hot leads. So, do you just wire the N and Ground direct to the inverter from the breaker panel, and use the timer as the relay for L1 and L2? It would make sense to me that cutting off the hot leads (L1 and L2) would disable any power to the inverter during a set time, so the inverter would provide power to the load from the batteries only (in a sense, much like a power outage).

In my application, the water heater seen in the diagram becomes the inverter.

Is this assumption correct?

View attachment 94729

Yes, you've got it.

 

[Johnmahon]

Hey @timselectric - I got to thinking, I already have this device for my pool pump and it works great. it is rated 240V @ 40A - do you think this would work for this application as well? I would like to use this device versus the Intermatic.

https://www.amazon.com/Migro-Outdoor-Resistive-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07WC2BT85

I think this device is basically the same idea that you presented above with the electromagnetic relay and wifi switch, but contained in a waterproof box. It has been working great for over a year with my pool pump.

Also, do you know if inverters are resistive loads or inductive/reactive loads?

 

[timselectric]

Hey @timselectric - I got to thinking, I already have this device for my pool pump and it works great. it is rated 240V @ 40A - do you think this would work for this application as well? I would like to use this device versus the Intermatic.

https://www.amazon.com/Migro-Outdoor-Resistive-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07WC2BT85

I think this device is basically the same idea that you presented above with the electromagnetic relay and wifi switch, but contained in a waterproof box. It has been working great for over a year with my pool pump.

Yes, that would do the job.

Also, do you know if inverters are resistive loads or inductive/reactive loads?

That depends on the type of load it's feeding.
But as a charger, I would consider it resistive.

 

[Johnmahon]

Yes, that would do the job.


That depends on the type of load it's feeding.
But as a charger, I would consider it resistive.

The reason I ask is that the inverter would be considered 50a as resistive. So this might create challenges.