Maybe I've saved money on the wrong end...Those switches are terrible. You're better off using a breaker where you have proper connections.
I have temperature issues with my battery connection on my DIY Chargenectifier.
I've done some tests with a thermal camera and found the wires close to the connections on the battery switches are pretty (unusual?) hot, also the connections on the fuse holder (about 10°C less compared to the switch). Because of the very short length of the wires, I've chosen maybe too tight AWGs. From each unit to the studs I'm running #6 AWG (max. 75A) and after the join of the two units I'm using #4 AWG (150A). The #4 has a length of about 4 foot from the top of the battery racks to the busbars inside the racks (one connected on the top and one at the bottom end).
The following pictures are done with "only" 40A per unit (80A for the #4 AWG wire for the switch and fuse).
View attachment 271497 View attachment 271499
View attachment 271500 View attachment 271501
On the short wire between switch and fuse terminal (pic 1) I found my shrink tube a bit melted on one side of the wire - this is definitely NOT ok and a result from a short test with 120A (60A per unit).
I've tightened the screws on the switch as much as possible (which is not so easy because I fear to break the switch), but my feeling is not very good about these connections. The nuts look very dull (like zinc) and between nut and lug is a split lock washer. The copper lugs are straight and blank. The crimps are really good (I'm pretty sure - but not 100%) and tight so I think is more related to the (bad) screw connection contacts.
View attachment 271502
The situation on the other 2 rectifiers is only a little bit better (about 5°C less).
Any ideas how I may improve this?
Should I remove the split lock washer?
Maybe I should change the nuts in the switch to different ones from a hardware store?
Do you think my wire size is really too small even considering the short distances?
Until the situation improves, I definitively don't want to use the units above 40A each.
Yes I have that switch. Ended up going with an mnedc250 breaker in the end but seems like a quality unit.Because I have tight space on my boards I think I have two options (the MidNite will not fit).
Using the Victron switches and replace the no-name switches with it (same dimensions) 2x $35.
Or using these "Heschen" breakers to replace both the switch and the MEGA fuse with it (no space for both because it so long) 2x $30.
I think about going with the breaker which would also reduce the number of screw connections / crimps.
@upnorthandpersonal do you have experience with this breaker?
@Brucey do you have experience with this switch?
How flexible really can the input voltage, amperage and specifically frequency be on these rectifier based chargers?
So that maybe our next goal up at our family cabin.Very. It's intended for that. You can find some numbers in the datasheet, e.g. for the Emerson:
Permitted input voltage: 85V to 300V
Line Frequency: 45Hz to 65Hz
Current depends entirely on the load.
Make sure the engine starts and stops with diesel. After its warm, mix diesel with oil, make sure engine is working hard. If it's not working it will carbon up and you will have all kinds of problems...So that maybe our next goal up at our family cabin.
Get a diesel generator and just raw dog the fuel tank with a bunch of miscellaneous (but still filtered) used oils.
It'll live a rough life.
That makes sense.Make sure the engine starts and stops with diesel. After its warm, mix diesel with oil, make sure engine is working hard. If it's not working it will carbon up and you will have all kinds of problems...
Indirect injection should be more forgiving if eng I running hot and hard.
Use coolant to preheat the oil.
Just noticed in my G4875G1 spec that it can handle DC input also, between 85-420Vdc. It's interesting that an AC input frequency is specified at all even if DC input is possible...Very. It's intended for that. You can find some numbers in the datasheet, e.g. for the Emerson:
Permitted input voltage: 85V to 300V
Line Frequency: 45Hz to 65Hz
Current depends entirely on the load.