diy solar

diy solar

DIY Fuse Holders and Distribution Busbars

I was able to punch the cover on. It has a ramp. But right-angle shoulder retains. I should file that to a ramp as well if I ever get them off again.
Guess a cable tie would keep it on if the retainer breaks.

Filing the shoulder should make it easier to get on/off. I didn't think of that.
 
That same size fuse holder with the clips is $80 without the fuse

Quality balance of system components add up to more than "value priced" electronics.

I spent between $150 and $200 for a pair of Blue Sea class T fuse holders and fuses for my 48V battery bank.
Same amount for a pair Bussman UL listed class T holders and fuses for AC.
 
Thanks for the info. Does the cover work ok?
Cover is very easy to remove and install. It isnt as nice in that it doesnt have the tabs you can break off to mount to a bus bar from the side but it should be very easy to trim with an abrasive disk. With a little modification to the base, you could make it so you could slide the cover off. It is stiff enough it would not vibrate off but would still be easy to slide off with a little force.

If you want any measurements or close ups of anything just let me know and Ill snap some for you.
 
Quality balance of system components add up to more than "value priced" electronics.

I spent between $150 and $200 for a pair of Blue Sea class T fuse holders and fuses for my 48V battery bank.
Same amount for a pair Bussman UL listed class T holders and fuses for AC.
I have spent more then you on fuse holders and fuses. Most of them aren't going to be used.
These will probably get tossed into the fuse graveyard when I change my mind again.
 
My fuse holders and fuses were backordered so I cancelled.

I know Hedges really likes people to use UL listed parts.
And I know the less expensive fuse holders and busbars use brass instead of copper.
I have a hard time understanding how that makes a difference. Maybe heat dissipation?
If there is some kind of extra resistance I could just bolt the lug on top of the fuse.

But instead of learning the hard way I guess I should just use recommended equipment and use it the way it is meant to be used.

Anyway, the search continues.
 
My fuse holders and fuses were backordered so I cancelled.

I know Hedges really likes people to use UL listed parts.
And I know the less expensive fuse holders and busbars use brass instead of copper.
I have a hard time understanding how that makes a difference. Maybe heat dissipation?
If there is some kind of extra resistance I could just bolt the lug on top of the fuse.

But instead of learning the hard way I guess I should just use recommended equipment and use it the way it is meant to be used.

Anyway, the search continues.
Op, I was looking for CLASS-T fuse holders and had to take a few additional beta blockers to slow my heart down when I saw the prices of these.

David P uses cutting board material as an insulator base, I am thinking of using a big a$$ cutting board I found at Costco to make Class T fuse holders with stainless steel hardware.
If heat dissipation is an issue, I can add some think copper to the top.

Anyway, with the projects we have, where can we buy CLASS-T fuses and holders in bulk? like at wholesale prices.
 
Op, I was looking for CLASS-T fuse holders and had to take a few additional beta blockers to slow my heart down when I saw the prices of these.

David P uses cutting board material as an insulator base, I am thinking of using a big a$$ cutting board I found at Costco to make Class T fuse holders with stainless steel hardware.
If heat dissipation is an issue, I can add some think copper to the top.

Anyway, with the projects we have, where can we buy CLASS-T fuses and holders in bulk? like at wholesale prices.
I am fairly sure cutting board is a bad choice. It may be tough but I think they melt and burn
 
I figure UL or equivalent is most important for things like fuses and breakers that have to perform during severe overstresses.
Good copper as a busbar I would worry the least about. Insulation is more in need of testing than conductors.

For class T fuses, if you get a pair of 1BS103 blocks you can mount them for any size fuse. Cover not included.


 
I am fairly sure cutting board is a bad choice. It may be tough but I think they melt and burn

Good Point, good thing I did not go Freddy Krueger on that cutting board, Polycarbonate boards are good? high temp stability? I see the ones in the link have bases made of polycarbonate with fiber board backing.
 
I figure UL or equivalent is most important for things like fuses and breakers that have to perform during severe overstresses.
Good copper as a busbar I would worry the least about. Insulation is more in need of testing than conductors.

For class T fuses, if you get a pair of 1BS103 blocks you can mount them for any size fuse. Cover not included.


Those fuse blocks look very functional and I bet the cooling fins help. But they are ugly. lol
And a pain to cover.

They are so cheap though I could buy a few to play with.
 
Those fuse blocks look very functional and I bet the cooling fins help. But they are ugly. lol
And a pain to cover.

They are so cheap though I could buy a few to play with.


Just consider it Steampunk.
Form follows function.

And do this if you need backup power:

1613598466006.png

I think this one is better for my purpose because it has a 1/4" stud
My 100 amp fuse uses 1/4"

edit: It looks like the blocks are aluminum

As are the blocks with fins I showed you (which I have). Their bolt holes were a reasonable fit for the class T.
Square D breaker panels use tinned aluminum blocks as well.
A few components are available in copper as an option.

1/4" stud. 100A. What fuse type is it for? You only need 100A fuse?
 
Just consider it Steampunk.
Form follows function.

And do this if you need backup power:

View attachment 37416



As are the blocks with fins I showed you (which I have). Their bolt holes were a reasonable fit for the class T.
Square D breaker panels use tinned aluminum blocks as well.
A few components are available in copper as an option.

1/4" stud. 100A. What fuse type is it for? You only need 100A fuse?

I have 4 batteries. My charge controllers operate at less than 200A. I think I have 2 charge controllers but it isn't very clear in the documentation. But even then I still won't use more than 100A per battery.

And it is cheaper and safer to work with 100A or less. At least that is my thinking.
 
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