I helped myself. Found this golden nugget that ill share. It's a post about using sligtly different laptop chargers but the knowledge still aplues to my question here I'd say. Anwser is buy a powe bank with 19 , 19'5 or 20 v and at least 2.31 amps. Little less is ok and more is dedinately ok as the laptop draws current as needed. It is not " pushed in ".
Im a begginner so I could be completely wrong.
To be absolutely safe:
- No, you shouldn't use chargers with different voltages at all and if you do, you will most likely void the warranty of either the laptop, the charger, or both. That also goes for the safety guidelines so if anything exploded in your face, YOU would be responsible. (Except maybe the charger manufacturer could be if they officially stated it's compatible with your model)
If you don't care about warranty and are ready to be responsible for your safety:
1. Voltage: 19.5V and 19V is a relatively small voltage difference. It is most probably safe to use as long as:
- The current of the charger is the same or higher than that of the laptop. (Which in this case is not, but then again, 4.74A and 4.62A is a relatively small difference) To explain a bit more:
- The output power (Amps * Volts) of the original and the new charger differs in 0.6 Watts, the 19.5V charger having more output power. That's negligible.
- Laptops usually don't draw the full power from the charger even when in use and being charged at the same time. The original charger was ready to output slightly more power than needed so even then - only, let's say, 4A were drawn. Which is well enough for the new charger to handle. Though in case you were to do heavy computing (gaming, rendering 3D or videos, or similar), and charging the laptop at the same time, it might need to draw the full power, in which case the charger wouldn't supply enough for it's rating and start to get very or extremely hot and your laptop would start to slowly discharge even when connected. In that case, you should immediately stop doing what you were doing and disconnect the charger.
- Most chargers from trustworthy companies have a fuse that would shut the charger down in case of extreme overheat (as in extreme power draw), but you don't want to risk anything.
2. Current: As explained above, the current rating of the charger should be same or higher higher than that of the laptop.
(To understand - Laptops draw current from the charger as needed. Chargers don't push current inside laptops. So if the laptop is fully charged, it takes ~0A from the charger even when connected.)
3. Size: The charger's connector needs to be exactly the same size as the old one (meaning that it needs to fit the laptop connector), otherwise it might either not fit at all, or if it does, you might break the laptop's inside connector and make it unusable even by original chargers.
4. Polarity: The polarity of the charger connector and the laptop connector (or the original charger connector) must be the same. It most probably is, the industry standard is "+" on the inside pin and "-" on the outside. But to be sure, check for polarity on both the charger and the laptop. There should be a picture similar to this -
polarity image
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answeredApr 7 '19 at 9:59
Random Elephant
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editedApr 7 '19 at 11:58
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I’ll attest to it being perfectly fine to use a 19.5v adapter on a 19v machine.
I have had countless of laptops and All-in-One (AIO) machines, and have had to deal with missing power bricks many times. After looking into this over 10 years ago, I was advised the same as those have found here; most power adapters never put out exactly the voltage they spec and most error on the high side.
It had been many years since dealing with this and recently noticed my high end Acer AIO had a generic LiteOn brand adapter that was rated less wattage than what the machine specified. It needed 9.47A at 19v. It concerned me that I was shorting the machine some watts under the recent high loads I was putting it under. Although, it never had any BSOD or other issues.
My high end Dell laptop had the same plug that would fit in the Acer but was 19.5v @9.23A. I plugged it in and it ram it just fine under full load for hours while rendering.
If you do the math and multiply the two figures together, on each one, you get the same exact watts. I even checked the voltages. The Dell 19.5 laptop adapter was ready 19.34 and the one I had been using on the Acer AIO (that called for 19v on the machine and stated 19v on the adapter) read 19.25A.
One thing I did learn when bench testing some fans and wanted power from a PC power supply I had laying around, is the following. Just because you jump the green wire on the ATX plug and turn the power supply on (old trick that has been know for decades), and you may get the 12v or 5v that you need, the power supply will not be able to go into full voltage regulation unless the power leads have a certain minimum load on them. If you ever want to turn a PC power supply into a bench power supply or one for another purpose it’s good to research this. The reason I bring that up is that maybe these external power adapters are the same way. Maybe you are reading incorrect voltage, when you have it plugged to the wall but not plugged into the laptop. Maybe the voltage regulates more to the 19v or 19.5v that the adapter specs? Either way, thankfully these machines can work with a range of voltage.
It’s apparent that the motherboards must have their own voltage regulators onboard since the CPU and other components really need a steady voltage or they will get fried. I doubt they rely on a power adapter plugged in far from the machine and a quick disconnect plug and battery and all other factors that can cause power fluctuations.
