diy solar

diy solar

DIY Transfer switch

pda1 said:
It like to make or maybe purchase a transfer switch so I can, obviously, manually quickly switch between solar (inverter) and grid and not have to shut down the appliance or device that's being used. I figure if I flip the switch fast enough there wont be any loss of power to the device.

For the moment I don't want to purchase the MOES switch but you can try and talk me out of it. Too many gadgets.

Thanks

Peter
Click to expand...
Do you only need to switch the hot legs or do you need to switch neutral as well?
 
DJAY said:
That's not true. I do it everyday using a Reliance Pro Tran manual transfer switch. Have never had an issue with my fridge, router, TV, computers etc. The only item that restart on a few occasions is a TV set top box.

Reliance Transfe Switch
Click to expand...
Loved my pro-tran, it was dead simple and just worked. I went away from that to a dedicated load panel for 2 reasons.
1. It doesn't switch neutral and the inverter creates a neutral ground bond when "inverting". I had disconnected that bond in the genset, but I'm not willing to do that in the inverter
2 It limited me to 10 circuits (12 with some creative Wago work in the main panel) and I wanted MORE MORE MORE

What I miss most is the ability to remove individual (pairs of) circuits from Grid to Back-up individually. With the dedicated load panel it is all or nothing
 
Zil said:
What can be so important in a house that can not be off for a few minutes? If using inverter as backup, nothing stays on when main grid goes down.
Every disconnect I have encountered have a center position where both supplies are disconnected. Must be a reason.
But these manual switches are recommended. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/7/38/Switches/Rotary_Switches
Click to expand...

It is a matter of convenience, loss of data or programming.
Some clocks reset. A desktop PC would shut down if AC isn't switched quickly.

We would like memory and real-time clock to stay up at least seconds with capacitors inside storing power. Some do.
Using a laptop, it's battery rides through, and external monitor power-cycles.
Ideally telecom gear, which may be carrying your Voip call, stays up.

I think a 12V battery with multiple fused cords is a good way to provide UPS for a number of the communications items.

My battery inverters disconnect from grid with a relay and allow a brief dropout before inverting. If they were inverting (support additional local consumption beyond programmed maximum grid current), they shut off for a moment. Time to restore power is not guaranteed especially in the event of a sag rather than sudden disconnect of grid. The only device I have which gets stumbled is a Voip dongle. I have to manually powercycle it to recover. The 12V battery backup is my planned solution, and will keep router & DSL modem running as well.

Center off on AC switches helps prevent arc across. Of course we need break-before-make, but also want to ensure any arc is interrupted before other source is connected.
 
I have a UPS on my entertainment system because both the Tivo and DirecTV receiver take a painfully long time to reboot if the power even blinks. Same with my cable modem and router. It's not terribly expensive and does the job well. Why try to reinvent the wheel?
 
pda1 said:
It like to make or maybe purchase a transfer switch so I can, obviously, manually quickly switch between solar (inverter) and grid and not have to shut down the appliance or device that's being used. I figure if I flip the switch fast enough there wont be any loss of power to the device.
Click to expand...
pda1 said:
Amps- no more than 10
Voltage- 120vac
Phase- single
Click to expand...
pda1 said:
Thought of using a 3-way wall switch (as used in a house)
Click to expand...
Hedges said:
This one is fast enough, because turning one breaker on trips the other off:
Click to expand...
sunshine_eggo said:
I don't care how much meth or crack you consume, you won't be able to do it fast enough.
Click to expand...
DJAY said:
Have no experience with it so cannot speak to it.
Click to expand...
Zil said:
But these manual switches are recommended.
Click to expand...
pda1 said:
Ah....I'm learning.
Click to expand...
pda1 said:
Ok....please point me in the direction of one of those devices.
Click to expand...
Boiling it down. ;)
 
Zil said:
What can be so important in a house that can not be off for a few minutes? If using inverter as backup, nothing stays on when main grid goes down.
Every disconnect I have encountered have a center position where both supplies are disconnected. Must be a reason.
But these manual switches are recommended. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/7/38/Switches/Rotary_Switches
Click to expand...
I have read posts of a satellite receiver need 5 to 8 minutes to reboot and lock in on the signal. Could be a pain if watching a movie or sports event. Even worse if it cuts in the middle of DWs show that is recording and finds out later.
 
Zil said:
What can be so important in a house that can not be off for a few minutes?
Click to expand...
Electronics, and especially anything to do with storing data, do not like power surprises. You might be surprised how many things store data.

I have my important electronics powered via UPS. Computers, TVs and set top boxes, internet connection and routers, Home Assistant Pi. This buys us ample time to cut over to backup power when the grid goes down.

As for everything else, they can lose power for a few minutes without much concern. Modern appliances generally have a memory function to return to their prior state when power returns (be that backup power if their circuit is supplied via backup, or grid power when that is restored).

Zil said:
Every disconnect I have encountered have a center position where both supplies are disconnected. Must be a reason.
Click to expand...
No local power source should ever back feed the grid during a grid outage. "Break before make" switching is designed to ensure the grid and the backup supply can never be connected together at the same time.
 
TomC4306 said:
The automatic transfer switch on my pip 3048 LV works flawlessly.
Click to expand...
That would be flipping between battery/solar and utility pass through modes presumably.

The grid supply in that instance is connected to the AC input of the AIO and not to the home's circuits directly.
 
Automationdirect.com has Fuji Reversing contactor with mechanical interlock - if you want to DIY the solution. There is a lot of good input on your question. I think an off the shelf solution with agency approvals may be a good choice. Good luck.
 
wattmatters said:
That would be flipping between battery/solar and utility pass through modes presumably.

The grid supply in that instance is connected to the AC input of the AIO and not to the home's circuits directly.
Click to expand...
Yeah...
ANY transfer switch will toggle between inputs. Stand alone, AIO, manual, automatic...
Your last sentence makes no sense to me. The first phrase is correct but the second phrase has me confused.
 
pda1 said:
It like to make or maybe purchase a transfer switch so I can, obviously, manually quickly switch between solar (inverter) and grid and not have to shut down the appliance or device that's being used. I figure if I flip the switch fast enough there wont be any loss of power to the device.

For the moment I don't want to purchase the MOES switch but you can try and talk me out of it. Too many gadgets.

Thanks

Peter
Click to expand...
Has anyone evaluated this battery company? https://a1solarstore.com/var/attachments/product/10578/EnpowerSmartSwitch-DS-EN-US_-DS.pdf
 
I read the responses to my question. :)
If you worry about your electronics you must have some type of UPS. They are feed through systems to be used in a grid tied building. They are designed to not feed back into the grid. They are typically for low powered circuits. If you need a grid disconnect switch, you will not find one that switches circuit feeds instantaneous. Grid connected systems must meet Building Codes.
 
eabyrd said:
Loved my pro-tran, it was dead simple and just worked. I went away from that to a dedicated load panel for 2 reasons.
1. It doesn't switch neutral and the inverter creates a neutral ground bond when "inverting". I had disconnected that bond in the genset, but I'm not willing to do that in the inverter
2 It limited me to 10 circuits (12 with some creative Wago work in the main panel) and I wanted MORE MORE MORE

What I miss most is the ability to remove individual (pairs of) circuits from Grid to Back-up individually. With the dedicated load panel it is all or nothing
Click to expand...
I have 5 of them I am wiring in now. The other issue I see is the single 30 amp breaker limit. I do like having control circuit by circuit however and I think that outweighs the cons of the pro/tran2 for my particular use case.
 
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