diy solar

diy solar

DIY water heater?

It takes 1 BTU to raise 1 lb of water 1 degree F. So 8.3lb/gal means 8.3btu per degree per gallon.

so for 50F rise in 1 gallon you would need 50*8.33=416BTU. 416BTU is about 122 watt-hours.

The term you need to google are: From there its just converting units.
specific heat of water
So to take a shower for four people comfortable, it will be 1.9 kwh, which is a bit more energy than I thought. Instead of two 6v golf cart battery, nearly four would be needed, with enough left over energy to run some LEDs and the TV, but not the electric fan for the propane heater.
 
Good thing I'm not relying only on solar! Solar is a small part in this build - at least in the first phase. We'll be driving so much it's just a trickle by comparison to the alternator. I know at some point we'll start settling in more hanging out places and solar will be more important then. I've calculated about the max I can fit on this vehicle is 3 60 cell panels for about 1kw, and that's fully covering the roof and extending off the sides a bit.

Regardless, I was originally thinking of going coolant heat based for water/cabin heating, but read about coolant heater issues and didn't see a clean water heating solution so decided to instead go big electric. I'm reminded how reliant on driving to recharge with the alternator that scheme is, and how when we move in the the "settling in places" phase we'd likely have issues recharging, especially in the cold. And now I see there are those nice little water heaters with an integrated heat exchanger! Maybe instead of relying on the alternator + big batteries and big amps I should tap into that large fuel source and just do the coolant thing.

I think I ordered double the batteries I need...
 
Two 600W DC elements can work just fine, if the heater in question can take 2 of course. That's 60A each, which is a reasonable cabling need.
One note on the 600W 12V heaters- they may not actually exist. I saw a review of the elements that are sold on Amazon, and the resistance of the unit is not correct for 600W @12V.

Since we have an all electric trailer, I have looked into this too- found a small 5 gal unit that looks just like a small home tank (https://www.acehardware.com/departm...G02wFQeEF7xvBEn87iUaAqc2EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds). We had originally gotten a Bosch 2.5 gal one, but it was too tall for the space, and the 5 gal unit we found at Ace was 3 in shorter. For now, it will stay 120V. But IF good replacement 12V elements show up- I may convert them. Then again, I might also look at a 36/48 V into the same element- as I suspect the 120V AC system in our trailer will be run off of a 36 or 48V inverter.

Either way- if the elements actually can put out 600W at whatever voltage- they are direct fit for standard water heater elements. Which is pretty convenient.

Also- good insulation over whatever tank you use will help minimize the heat loss, which will help the amount of energy needed to keep the tank warm as you pass through the family.
 
...need the ability to somewhat regularly take hot showers....~2 gallon hot water tank.
Sailboat solution: $13 at a bigbox, paint it black leave it out in the sun... spray to wet, soap, spray to rinse (also conserves water ;)).


It takes 1 BTU to raise 1 lb of water 1 degree F. So 8.3lb/gal means 8.3btu per degree per gallon.
Theory:
Surface area: ~8x10" = ~60 in^2 (took off 20 in^2 for the share side curvature)​
Solar: ~400 BTU/hr - sqft = 2.8 BTU/hr - in^2​
Energy = 60 x 2.8 = 168​
8.3 BTU/°gal, so 168 / 8.3 = ~20°/hr - heat losses​
In practice, cold water will heat up fairly quickly, but then it slows down. Left out all day it can be quite warm.

Downside is that it must be full for maximum heat (an air bubble at the top acts as an insulator). Mine stands upright next to the mast, so not horribly efficient. But hey, I'm roughing it. ;)

Hmmm, I suppose you could build a concentric cradle for it with reflective mylar (space blanket). That would would heat it from the bottom so it wouldn't need to be full and increase the area. Could also double as a cooking stove.
1615986514305.png
 
One note on the 600W 12V heaters- they may not actually exist. I saw a review of the elements that are sold on Amazon, and the resistance of the unit is not correct for 600W @12V.
I'm not seeing that (this listing?). The only negative reviews are without any detail, obviously clueless people (this isn't a part you want should get you really know what you're doing), and a guy complaining about the wiring (a valid concern, the terminals are very close, but I can live with it).

I am using a 20L (5 gal) PE tank with a 600W 12V DC heating element.
Would that be this same element? Seem legit to you? (thanks for the details of you're little box BTW, it's awesome to see)

Sailboat solution: $13 at a bigbox
That's what we used while we camped out of our minivan. It does work, but this build is the output of what we learned from those experiences (a good bathroom/water/shower setup is a must for my wife or she's just not interested in going).


I'm leaning towards the Kuuma 5 gallon (for a very reasonable $300), but the Isotemp 4 gallon would tuck in behind a seat real nicely (at $500). The ~2 gallon DIY tank was going to be down in the frame rails, but these bigger tanks won't fit down there so have to go inside. I need to finalize the parts list and place all the items.
 
For on demand heating with a hydronic unit, you don't need a water tank. Instead a plate heat exchanger and a tempering valve can provide on demand water heating.

1615935460892.png
I looked at this a long time and concluded the water wouldn't be hot enough. Are you aware of anyone making that work?
 
I'm not seeing that (this listing?). The only negative reviews are without any detail, obviously clueless people (this isn't a part you want should get you really know what you're doing), and a guy complaining about the wiring (a valid concern, the terminals are very close, but I can live with it).
this is the video where the resistance is measured, questioning the output ability-
 
I didn't watch the entire video, jumped in to a couple points.
I was going to say that if he didn't zero contact resistance of the meter, the ohms reading could be off by 0.5 ohms. But meter read 1.1 ohms and his in-circuit ammeter reported the same.

I noticed that the two (slightly different length) elements are wired in parallel. So they are each around 2.2 ohms. In parallel, 1.1 ohms would get closer to the desire wattage in a 24V system, might be as high as 28V for 700W. You could wire them in series for 4.4 ohms, about 500W at 48V.

Seems like either someone didn't know what they were doing when this was designed, or an alternate component was substituted in manufacturing.

If you use one of these (DC elements) make sure your controls are rated for DC and the voltage/current needed.
 
I think that could be just this 36V 1200W heating element relabeled for 12V. I calculate 1.1 ohms for this one:


Since the brand "Dernord" makes both products, maybe their highly trained staff assembled a "12V" heater with elements meant for 36V.

 
Este es mi intento reciente de implementar un calentador de agua de CC a una escala algo menor. Estoy usando un tanque de PE de 20 L (5 galones) con un elemento calefactor de CC de 600 W y 12 V CC. La energía de CC se alimenta a través de un protector de batería Victron BP-65 con un interruptor de termostato electrónico, un sensor de nivel de agua y un interruptor de temperatura bimetálico mecánico simple (corte de seguridad a 60 grados Celsius), todos conectados en serie a la entrada de "habilitación" del BP-65. Hice algunas fotos de la prueba preliminar antes de que todo se montara en el RV; hasta ahora, todo funcionó como se esperaba:

View attachment 41238
View attachment 41239
View attachment 41240
View attachment 41242
View attachment 41243
View attachment 41244
View attachment 41245
View attachment 41246
 
Este es mi intento reciente de implementar un calentador de agua de CC a una escala algo menor. Estoy usando un tanque de PE de 20 L (5 galones) con un elemento calefactor de CC de 600 W y 12 V CC. La energía de CC se alimenta a través de un protector de batería Victron BP-65 con un interruptor de termostato electrónico, un sensor de nivel de agua y un interruptor de temperatura bimetálico mecánico simple (corte de seguridad a 60 grados Celsius), todos conectados en serie a la entrada de "habilitación" del BP-65. Hice algunas fotos de la prueba preliminar antes de que todo se montara en el RV; hasta ahora, todo funcionó como se esperaba:

View attachment 41238
View attachment 41239
View attachment 41240
View attachment 41242
View attachment 41243
View attachment 41244
View attachment 41245
View attachment 41246
 
I didn't watch the entire video
That was a 800w unit he got off ebay and looks like it was maybe the incorrect item (for 48v?), he said he'd try the 600w version (which looks to be the same as the amazon one). He also said the seller said that one is known good, but he hasn't updated his findings yet.
 
Last edited:
Many, the Rixen system is a common one.
Interesting. I think I'd still want a very small dc hot water tank for the quick washing of feet and whatnot so I don't always have to run the coolant heater or engine... You know what, I have enough custom stuff to do on this build, I'm just going to go with one of those premade solutions and be done with it. It sounds like that's what you did and are happy with it.
 
Existen modelos hasta 3500w, puede autoconstruirse o en españa lo fabrican artesanalmente
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210310_142109_037.jpg
    IMG_20210310_142109_037.jpg
    70.1 KB · Views: 9
  • 1616008862603940735057952327494.jpg
    1616008862603940735057952327494.jpg
    70.7 KB · Views: 9
Back
Top