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DL24P Battery Capacity Tester - Voltage not agreeing with Multitester

OnTheRoadAgain

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 22, 2021
Messages
643
Hello,

Today I finally received my much anticipated DL24P 180Watt Capacity tester. It's just a blast getting new toys.
Until they don't work properly.

So I tested a NiMh battery with my multitester and it shows 1.344v.

After making sure I was connecting it properly to the DL24P, I get 0.42v ???
(Positive connected to A+ and Negative connected to A- per included instructions)

Nothing I could do made the voltages agree or even get close.
I am doing something wrong?
Any suggestions?

Back it goes! (oh wait...it came from China...only $279.88 to send it back !)

DL24P_instructions_20210327_165107.jpg

Looky here....this thing thinks the battery voltage is 0.417
DL24P_20210327_160638.jpg

Poke fun of my trusty Radio Shack multitester at your own peril. It's been feenominal !
Dl24P_20210327_160629.jpg

Oh wait....now 0.420....we're making progress!
DL24P_20210327_160502.jpg
 
I just hate it when I wait a long time and I'm really excited about.......and then it doesn't work
 
Are you connecting it per fig #2?
And What Voltage is it showing if set the current draw to 0A?
 
I connected the device to a power supply using connection scheme 2 and it works ?

Not quite sure how it would not work connected to a battery but works connected to a power supply.

The battery is at 1.34v

It still will not work (even with the power supply utilizing connection scheme 1.

So it seems that for every discharge test connecting all 4 wires will be mandatory.
 
For figure 1 to work you need to put in the two jumpers on the terminals as shown in figure #1.
Can you zoom out and show us how you wire up the battry and the tester?
BTW, the 4-wire measurement method is done so the tester willl actualy read the Voltage at the battery terminals so the Vdrops on the wires between the tester and the battery will not have affect on the battery Voltage reading.
 
Last edited:
Yes, it could be that I did not understand the connection scheme.
Also, the nature of the connectors does not make adding the jumper wire an easy task unless they are soldered together.
When you put the main test wire into the slot along with the jumper wire the bulkier of the two gets pinched but the other remains loose and can pull out.
It takes some finesse and trial and error to get both wire ends firmly attached into the one slot.

Also
The device came with a small USB adapter (shown in the blue box) that is designed to fit onto the 4 slots that make up the 4 wire connector.
Once installed, everything seems to work as expected.
Up till now I had been connecting wires directly into the 4 slots.
This picture is the exact model I received (upgraded, new version)

DL24P_UpgradeUSBConnector.jpg

Seems I either connected it incorrectly or failed to get the wires in adequately.
With the USB adapter installed it seems to be working fine with a 5.5mm DC Barrel connector and the two leads (positive and negative) from it.
 
Man,
I'm getting some stupid results from this thing.

Like 30AH from a certain battery on a different capacity tester......and 4Ah on this one (at the same discharge rate and cut off voltage)
 
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