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Do I need circuit breaker and/or busbar?

JohnnyBravo

Angler
Joined
Nov 20, 2020
Messages
91
Location
Romania
Hi,

I plan to have 2-4 panels, 200-400W output in total, my inverter is 12V / 3700W (7000W surge), one LiFePo4 12V battery (100Ah currently, going to replace it with 12V 230Ah). I'll use only AC power so no 12V consumers. I ordered 150/45 MPPT Smartsolar Victron.

Some basic questions I have after reviewing the schematic from https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-classic-400-watt-rvs-vans-buses.html

What's the role of the circuit breaker? Do I need that in case I'll have no 12V consumers?

Do I need a busbar? Why I cannot connect the battery negative from MPPT to the battery negative stud on the same connection with the negative cable to the inverter?

Thank you
 
Hi,

I plan to have 2-4 panels, 200-400W output in total,

Plan for 400W

my inverter is 12V / 3700W (7000W surge),

3700W / 12.8V / .85 = 340A - you need to plan for 340A between the battery and inverter.

Unless the inverter is a low frequency inverter, the 7000W surge isn't meaningful.

one LiFePo4 12V battery (100Ah currently, going to replace it with 12V 230Ah).

Why not parallel them for 330Ah?

I'll use only AC power so no 12V consumers.

Noted

I ordered 150/45 MPPT Smartsolar Victron.

Nice choice. Now get a smartshunt, so you can actually tell the state of charge of your battery.

Some basic questions I have after reviewing the schematic from https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-classic-400-watt-rvs-vans-buses.html

What's the role of the circuit breaker? Do I need that in case I'll have no 12V consumers?

To protect the wire to the MPPT.

Do I need a busbar?

No, but you might want them.

Why I cannot connect the battery negative from MPPT to the battery negative stud on the same connection with the negative cable to the inverter?

You can do this, but you must pay careful attention that the connections are solid.

Simplified:

1722464598942.png
 
A few other things to consider…

If your loads are more than your solar - how will you recharge your batteries? Will you have a charger?

Like @sunshine_eggo said you need a Victron Smartshunt so you know the SOC (State of Charge) of the batteries… are they mostly full or mostly empty?

It sounds like you already have the inverter- if not look at the Victron Multiplus 2000. It combines both an inverter and a 50a charger (so you can recharge fast).

Because you have a LARGE inverter be sure and use 4/0 cables between the batteries and inverter- you need to plan for 340amps!

Watch the idle loads on your inverter- some inverters use more than people think they do - just sitting there doing nothing.

Good Luck
 
Why not parallel them for 330Ah?

Because when I have asked Liontron support about such operation, they told me the batteries shall have same BMS parameters. Here my question and their answer:
My question:
Can I connect in parallel https://liontron.com/download/german/LISMART1280LX.pdf with Lithium SuperPack 12,8V & 25,6V - Victron Energy ?




Liontron is rated as 100A discharge (150A surge) and Victron as 50A discharge and 100A surge.
Their answer:
Unfortunately, these batteries cannot be connected in parallel,
because these batteries have different BMS installed.
In addition, the programming of the batteries is different.

If you want to connect batteries in parallel, it is best to make sure that the batteries are from the same manufacturer and have the same voltage.
In addition, as described above, the batteries should have the same BMS and the same programming.

If these requirements are met, the batteries should be brought to the same state of charge before connecting them in parallel.

I asked then If I can put in parallel Liontron 40Ah with Liontron 80Ah, below their answer:

these batteries can be connected in parallel.

Please note the following when doing so:

You are trying to connect two different batteries in parallel.

The 40Ah battery has a continuous discharge current of 40A.
The 80Ah battery has a continuous discharge current of 100A.

Theoretically, you then have a continuous discharge current of 140A.
But the currents are divided.

1. 70A are then on each battery.
2. the 40Ah battery switches off because max. 40A discharge current is possible.
3. 140A are fully available on the 80Ah battery.
4. therefore, max. 80A continuous discharge current is possible in the parallel connection.

I would therefore recommend connecting 2 identical batteries in parallel.

So, about my Victron SuperPack LiFePo4 to be put in parallel with my future LiTime 230Ah (200A BMS) I am afraid I'll have troubles.


Nice choice. Now get a smartshunt, so you can actually tell the state of charge of your battery.



To protect the wire to the MPPT.

Why do I need smartshunt? Why I cannot let the BMS to cutoff when battery is almost empty? My inverter also has such feature.

About wire to MMPT protection, this would be the case of short circuit inside the battery? or inside the inverter?
Why do I need circuit breaker and not another 50A fuse?
In case my appliances consumption will be 200A, how do I know I won't blow the 50A fuse if this fuse will be connected on my 300A fuse? Here the busbar would play its role as it would separate the current flow? :)
 
If your loads are more than your solar - how will you recharge your batteries? Will you have a charger?

Because you have a LARGE inverter be sure and use 4/0 cables between the batteries and inverter- you need to plan for 340amps!

Watch the idle loads on your inverter- some inverters use more than people think they do - just sitting there doing nothing.

I will replace the battery once it's empty with my next ones, Liontron 80Ah, Victron 100Ah (prefilled before going to my off-grid location)

Having a large inverter but consumption like 300-400W (except when I use the vacuum cleaner which will mean +2600W surge and +1000W continuous use) will that require still 340A plan? I will use 300A class T fuse for short circuit failures on battery or inverter, that's my current plan.

My inverter idle consumption is 0.6-0.9A, I monitored that via mobile application connected to the battery, it was advertised with 0.4A consumption though :)
 
assuming a circuit breaker is better economical option than using a fuse, which one would fit my 150/45 MMPT Smartsolar Victron? 1722537674273.png
 
I asked then If I can put in parallel Liontron 40Ah with Liontron 80Ah, below their answer:
So, about my Victron SuperPack LiFePo4 to be put in parallel with my future LiTime 230Ah (200A BMS) I am afraid I'll have troubles.
Hooking dissimilar batteries together _can_ be done, but is seldom the best idea. They will have different internal resistances so will charge and discharge at different rates. Starting at 100% on both as the smaller discharges it will start pulling current from the larger one then eventually you will bottom both out. But that constant pulling and pushing of energy will have a certain percentage of waste.

Far better to get two or more identical batteries and parallel them.

Mixing different BMS that have different current limits really becomes an issue which is what Liontron was trying to say.

Why do I need smartshunt? Why I cannot let the BMS to cutoff when battery is almost empty? My inverter also has such feature.

A smart shunt you can calibrate it - i.e when you are at 100% you set it to 100% and it tracks from there on out because it has every joule of energy going through it. The inverter only indicates what happened through the inverter. It will be in the ballpark, but needs to be checked more frequently. And if you have ANY separate input or output energy that happens direct to/from the batteries the inverter can't keep track of that.

In your design the SCC and inverter are separate units - so you won't be close to accurate at any point. The shunt goes right next to the negative terminal of the battery, from there a bus bar to hook everything else to.

About wire to MMPT protection, this would be the case of short circuit inside the battery? or inside the inverter?
Why do I need circuit breaker and not another 50A fuse?
In case my appliances consumption will be 200A, how do I know I won't blow the 50A fuse if this fuse will be connected on my 300A fuse? Here the busbar would play its role as it would separate the current flow? :)


3700w is a very large inverter for 12v. If you haven't already got it might want to swap everything out to 24v. Assuming you do already have that

3700w/12.8a = 289amps
289amps * 1.25 = 361amps (wire sized for this)
289amps * 1.20 = 346amps - this is your fuse size before the inverter positive.

Here 361amps would be windy nation welding wire sized at 4/0 good to 440amps - There it will depend on what the common sizes, strand count, and sheath temperature rating.

Unless you parallel at least 3 batteries with 200amp BMS each it is very likely that they will trip into potection mode randomly if you hit the inverter hard. For your surge rating you need 4 batteries in parallel with 200a BMS.


On each battery you need a fuse.
Not a breaker, but a fuse. Fuses act 10x quicker than breakers. You can also do a breaker in addition, but that is not required. And if you are thinking the BMS will shut things off that may be true, but it also may become a dead short if the MOSFETs inside it fail. Don't leave it to chance and fuse it. In your location you can look for Mersen brand gG series fuses and holders, BS88, or you can get the class T style from the states. You want a fuse labeled as 'semicondutor' or power fuse because that implies a very fast acting time vs current curve.

NOTE - fuses are there to keep your wires from getting red hot in a short situation and causing a fire. They might also protect your gear, but that isn't their purpose. And if they are properly sized you will never blow them. When buying get a spare and it will be ready just in case.

EACH battery gets its own fuse - this should be rated for 120% of the output from the BMS - the wire should be sized for 125% of the output of the BMS.

The LiTime 12v230ah battery comes with a 200amp BMS - so a 240amp fuse - or 250amp if that is the nearest available size - you can go up but not down. If you do go up you upsize the wire as well. It would take Windy nation 2awg for 205 amps which is close so I would go to 1/0 for 285amps. There as before you will need to figure out the local sizing.

This fuse goes right off the battery post and connects to the positive bus bar. Off that positive bus bar you add another fuse of the same size to the inverter. IF these battery wires are longer than about a foot you may need another fuse where they connect to the bus bar. This is in case there is a short midway on the wire.

Here is a sample that is similar to what you are doing - not the only way to do it by far, but gives an idea. It uses MRBF fuses on the batteries and class T to the inverter. Inverter is 3000w.


12v picture.png

I will replace the battery once it's empty with my next ones, Liontron 80Ah, Victron 100Ah (prefilled before going to my off-grid location)
Having a large inverter but consumption like 300-400W (except when I use the vacuum cleaner which will mean +2600W surge and +1000W continuous use) will that require still 340A plan? I will use 300A class T fuse for short circuit failures on battery or inverter, that's my current plan.
See above for fuse and wire calculations - you are a bit off

My inverter idle consumption is 0.6-0.9A, I monitored that via mobile application connected to the battery, it was advertised with 0.4A consumption though :)
If your inverter has an Eco mode - it will turn on and off periodically checking for load and that is what they meassure. If it doesn't have that they just mistated the usage.

assuming a circuit breaker is better economical option than using a fuse, which one would fit my 150/45 MMPT Smartsolar Victron? View attachment 233118

Leave this style breaker to the automotive market where it was designed for. It is a thermal breaker and will give you false trips if it is mounted where it is above 25C air temp. The other thing is they get hot and waste a lot of heat that way. And if you trip them with current going through them it won't take long before the internal contacts are fried and they become a fire hazard. For breakers you want ones that are DC rated and magnetic trip. Midnite solar, Carling, etc produce them - you will have to figure out what is available to you there.

See above for fuse and wire size discussion.

Poke through my answer thread linked below - there are things you may not have thought about.
 
Last edited:
Got in the meanwhile lots of answers from ChatGPT not necessarily accurate but enough to have more clarity.
Yes, my inverter is bought, still, my load is 400W-1000W (2600W surge) so if the inverter can output 3700W, do you consider that my 300A BSS T class is not enough for my setup?
Can you recommend some 300A busbar?
Regarding the fuse or breaker between MPPT and the 300A T class fuse, can you recommend something for 60A?
For now I'll stick to one battery, once it's empty or almost empty I'll replace it with my next ones, I intend to use a multimeter to read the battery voltage as a smart shunt would double the existing function in my inverter.
 
Don't trust chatgpt any farther than you can throw it. Have a look at this - it was entertaining but basically useless. Even its explainations of why some things work or how they work are suspect.


If storing LFP batteries for a long period of time you want to do it at about 40~50% SOC.

What is your design? Drawio is a free program that takes about 10 minutes to learn. Or sketch it out on a paper and post a picture.

Seems like I don't understand how you have things put together. If your inverter is an AIO so the panels connect to it and it does the charging then the inverter probably does register what a smart shunt does. If your MPPT is a separate unit it does not.

The 300a class T would be fine, but if you haven't bought it get wire for the fill capacity of the inverter. Better to spend a tad more now than rebuy later. The major factor is to have your wire sized to carry 20% more than your fuse. The class T fuse will not blow with double current for almost 10 minutes. With 6 times or more current it will blow in 0.1 to 0.01 sec. So a dead short and it is going to blow and protect everything. An overcurrent situation and it can let the wires heat quite a bit before it blows.

This is about the LiTime 230ah battery - if you try to parallel the others you will probably cause the lower amperage battery to trip into protection mode if it has it or just melt the BMS if it doesn't. Make sure to have a MRBF on each battery post. If that happens it has a good chance of frying the inverter while it dies. The fuse might or might not protect it since they don't react fast enough. And they are faster than a breaker.

At the max BMS limit of 200amps you can only pull 2560 watts no matter what you do. Add another battery in parallel and it is can supply 400amps.





This is the setup I use for my server UPS - the inverter has a 40amp charger built in - you being off-grid would never use it. But the design is super simple.


UPS backup.png
 
So the open questions are linked to busbar usage, what 300A busbar should I use and maybe a breaker or on-off switch.
Once my battery is empty I want to switch it with my next ones, 100Ah Victron, 80Ah Liontron. My goal is to stay off-grid about a week regular consumption is 200-400W except when I use the vacuum cleaner (2600W surge, 1000W consumption).
I also have Ecoflow Delta 1300 which currently is powering my off-grid location for a day and I can charge it in one hour or so with my Honda generator :D
 
I would not swap out batteries that is asking for trouble…. One wire slip and you have a very bad day.

You can parallel batteries - as long as they use the same charge voltages - yes there will be slight differences- but that is better than swapping batteries.
 
So the open questions are linked to busbar usage, what 300A busbar should I use and maybe a breaker or on-off switch.
Once my battery is empty I want to switch it with my next ones, 100Ah Victron, 80Ah Liontron. My goal is to stay off-grid about a week regular consumption is 200-400W except when I use the vacuum cleaner (2600W surge, 1000W consumption).
I also have Ecoflow Delta 1300 which currently is powering my off-grid location for a day and I can charge it in one hour or so with my Honda generator :D

Blue sea systems or current connected both have real bus bars you can count on size wise.
 
I would not swap out batteries that is asking for trouble…. One wire slip and you have a very bad day.

You can parallel batteries - as long as they use the same charge voltages - yes there will be slight differences- but that is better than swapping batteries.
BMS short circuit protection is not working for LiFePo4? Should I use an on-off switch for my intended setup as described in above picture?
 
Blue sea systems or current connected both have real bus bars you can count on size wise.
I have to choose between 250A or 600A, still searching for a brand that is doing 300A busbar, I understand the benefit for such busbar is to avoid lugs stacking so to avoid the risk of loose connections
 
BMS short circuit protection is not working for LiFePo4? Should I use an on-off switch for my intended setup as described in above picture?
That is a good option

Hella do have those an can go up to a lot of amps
The best save way
I use them self on my boat
To disconnect the battery.
You can only use it for 12/24 volts setup
 

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The Li Time brand bars are rated 300amps and I did the math based on them being brass with nickle plating and they are good to 308. At least they are up front about it. I would just buy bars that are at least 20% higher than your max anticipated current. And I do recommend pure copper bars.



You can get just 110 annealed copper bars and make your own.
 

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