I have a 2012 Jayco Eagle HT and I want to change to a lithium battery (Eventually add solar panels). Do I need anything besides the battery? Charger? If it has an inverter where would it be located? Do I need to change that as well since it has an acid battery now?
Does my camper have an inverter
- Thread starter MTones
- Start date
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Not sure how anybody but you could determine if your camper has an inverter.
If you can use any 120VAC devices without being plugged into shore power or a generator, you have an inverter. Otherwise, you don't.
You'll need to check the model of your unit's charger/converter. If it bulks to 14.2-14.6V, absorbs 13.8-14.6V and floats at 13.2-13.6V, it should be fine for the most part. The bigger issues with RV is the garbage wiring between the converter and the battery. It often causes a big voltage drop that mucks up charging. In shore power charging cases, it rarely matters since you're not worried about fast charging, but if charging with a generator, it can increase generator run times significantly.
If you're going to go boondocking frequently, LFP is a great option. If you're only going to take it out once a month, spend most of the time on shore power, etc., then LFP is not worth the cost unless you're looking for lighter weight/smaller volume.
LFP bad choice for:
Infrequent cycling
Backup power where backup events are infrequent.
Starting generators, engines.
Things that use may use greater than 100A of current, even for brief periods (coffee maker, microwave, etc.).
If you have money to burn, or you're a slave to keeping up with the Jones', and you know what you're getting into, go for it.
If you can use any 120VAC devices without being plugged into shore power or a generator, you have an inverter. Otherwise, you don't.
You'll need to check the model of your unit's charger/converter. If it bulks to 14.2-14.6V, absorbs 13.8-14.6V and floats at 13.2-13.6V, it should be fine for the most part. The bigger issues with RV is the garbage wiring between the converter and the battery. It often causes a big voltage drop that mucks up charging. In shore power charging cases, it rarely matters since you're not worried about fast charging, but if charging with a generator, it can increase generator run times significantly.
If you're going to go boondocking frequently, LFP is a great option. If you're only going to take it out once a month, spend most of the time on shore power, etc., then LFP is not worth the cost unless you're looking for lighter weight/smaller volume.
LFP bad choice for:
Infrequent cycling
Backup power where backup events are infrequent.
Starting generators, engines.
Things that use may use greater than 100A of current, even for brief periods (coffee maker, microwave, etc.).
If you have money to burn, or you're a slave to keeping up with the Jones', and you know what you're getting into, go for it.
Unless someone added an inverter you probably don’t have one. You do have a converter charger that probably should be upgraded if it’s original with the camper. The older converter chargers take forever to charge a battery and are not configured for lifepo4. If you are just camping on the weekends buy 2 Walmart deep cycle batteries and charge them fully during the week and you will save a lot of money.
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
An alternative to Walmart batteries that might be a little more cost effective is 2X 6V GC2 batteries in series for 12V. Sams and Costco tend to supply these for about the same price as Walmart batteries, and they are arguably better than the Everstart line with meaningful ratings.
We don’t have Cosco where we live.
Probably no inverter. Certainly the RV has a converter-charger to power the 12v accessories and charge the battery. Yes a drop in LFP battery will work fine. The existing converter is fine and will charge the LFP faster than the existing lead-acid battery. Beware some "lithium" converters sold as replacements are actually a bit hard on the lithium batteries. Some converters are superior to others. The existing system with a drop in LFP will work fine a season while the solar or other upgrades can be planned.
Open the breaker panel and post the model number for best answers. Probably a WFCO but I don't know Jayco that well.
Open the breaker panel and post the model number for best answers. Probably a WFCO but I don't know Jayco that well.
