diy solar

diy solar

Drafting a VanLife system - thoughts on this system? Specific questions under the diagram

Yes it will work for four in a 2s2p setup. It does have a max of 700watts @12v (everything above that will just be clipped). But the big advantage is all the additional watts when not in ideal conditions. I only noticed the clipping once on my rig (four flat -mounted 200w panels).
Good to know. To maximize our 800W (if we got 4), we'd probably want to upgrade the MPPT so it's not clipped
 
Good to know. To maximize our 800W (if we got 4), we'd probably want to upgrade the MPPT so it's not clipped
It may not matter. Flat mounted panels will attenuate max production a bit. So it could be just right with 800W
 
My understanding…

Non-isolated are for MotorHome’s and vans. Where both batteries negative wire are connected to the same frame.

Isolated are for trucks and trailers - where there is not a solid negative connection or other areas where the systems are separate.
 
I vote for 12 volts. Metal vehicles you only need to run positive wires and not very long ones. And its already @ 12v all the accessories that came with it.
 
Metal vehicles you only need to run positive wires and not very long ones
I dispute that.
Proper wiring will insure performance. A vehicle chassis conducts electricity; we use it for ground (like actual dirt is a ground) but we don’t use dirt as a primary conductor.
 
I dispute that.
Proper wiring will insure performance. A vehicle chassis conducts electricity; we use it for ground (like actual dirt is a ground) but we don’t use dirt as a primary conductor.

Doesn't all the 120vac electric from the power company make its way back and compete the loop through the actual ground, the dirt ?

No ground wires going back to the power plant.
 
It’s the single reference point issue and a cause of shorts or electrocution in a design that’s the issue, not a function.
 
Should this be a 12V system or a 24V system?

Most of your items are DC and the inverter is 3000W which is on the cusp of whats viable/sensible for 12V. I have similar use but a 2000W inverter and I'm going 12V


I do not know what size breakers/fuses to use, and if I have enough or if I have too many - thoughts?

The solar needs both cables to "break" or disconnect, other just the one

The battery fuse is important and should be rated for max system

Each time you change the spec of a wire you should fuse for that wire.

Where would grounding wires go in the diagram?
"Grounding" in vehicles can be a confusing term, its different from "earth" in a domestic set up. In a vehicle its typically used as the return path -ve back to the battery completing the circuit which uses less wire and can make things simpler. Getting a good connection through a modern van can be problematic though.

Any other feedback/comments/concerns with this setup?
Check the specs of the SCC youve shown, its solar input is limited plus your batteries aren't in balance with your panels ability to charge them.
You need to be aiming to recharge your batteries each "average' day (can be difficult in the winter)
Sorry to bother you, but I am registered but don't know how to post. Can you point me in the right direction?
 
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