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Duracell 6V Golf Cart Batteries

jwh92020

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I was at Batteries+ today and I saw these Duracell 230 amp hr 6V batteries. Would they work with a small system - 250 watt panel, controller, 750 watt inverter and a small charger? The price is attractive if the batteries are a good fit for the system I'm putting together. Thanks

 
Same old lead/acid battery you can only use 20-25% of rated capacity without seriously effecting the longevity of the battery.
You will need about 4 times the batteries (in parallel) to get the rated Amp Hours on the label, then series those for your Voltage requirement.

There is a 1 year (pro-rated) warranty for a reason...

I don't want to be a wet blanket on your project, this is just the reality when dealing with lead/acid.
The deeper you discharge, the lower the voltage and the shorter the life.
 
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thats why he needs to go for it.once he is hooked-he will be back for the lithium's,,,,
its like heroine.first ones free......
 
Same old lead/acid battery you can only use 20-25% of rated capacity without seriously effecting the longevity of the battery.
You will need about 4 times the batteries (in parallel) to get the rated Amp Hours on the label, then series those for your Voltage requirement.

There is a 1 year (pro-rated) warranty for a reason...

I don't want to be a wet blanket on your project, this is just the reality when dealing with lead/acid.
The deeper you discharge, the lower the voltage and the shorter the life.
That is the reason I posted the question, I planned (plan) on using 3 - 80 amp hr AGMs on my charity build. I saw these and wondered if they are as good/better than the AGMs for $50 more.
 
That is the reason I posted the question, I planned (plan) on using 3 - 80 amp hr AGMs on my charity build. I saw these and wondered if they are as good/better than the AGMs for $50 more.

Application.

If the battery just sits, isn't moving around, then lead/acid works.
They are OK for fully charged back-up batteries that aren't getting deep cycled, but even 'Deep Cycle' just means they bounce back, they still only have so many cycles of life in them, the more you sue them the faster they go bad.

Gel or AGM are better for something getting bounced around, nothing to spill and plates that are captured and don't break as easily.

If you want to use the crap out of the batteries, LFP (LiFePo4) batteries have a 10 year warranty, give about 4 or 5 times the useable energy each cycle, don't have to be 100% recharged, hold voltage up as they are discharged, and are an all around better choice for someone that's going to use the crap out of their batteries.
100Ah runs about $990 from Battle Born, but with 10 times the life cycles of lead, and 4 or 5 times the useable energy, for solar system they are a viable choice (for off the shelf batteries).

A useable 100Ah without damage (not 20% of rating), for 10 years... And the protections built into the battery make it almost idiot proof.
The initial price is a SHOCK, but in the long run it's a MUCH better battery for solar power, and more cost effective.
It's also safer...
Consider space & weight, Something like Battle Born wins hands down.

If the application is standby power, and the lead/acid can stay fully charged,only used a little bit, then it's viable.
LFP can be partly charged, like on two or three cloudy days in a row, and still recharge with no damage to speak of, you leave a lead/acid deeply discharged for very long and it goes toes up, tag it and bag it.
Since solar homes are in constant use, there really isn't any such thing as '100% Charged' and on 'Float' (maintenance charge), in a solar system State of Charge (SoC) is constantly moving one direction or the other.

I WASN'T a believer in LFP and on the chemistry batteries 2 years ago when I installed a couple strings in my battery bank, I'm a believer now having delt with lead/acid for over 20 years off grid.
 
I know who you are now!
Limit the consumption.
Out of useable battery, out of power period.
Teaches conservation...

As for lead/acid, the 4x rule can't be broken.
At 25% DoD you need 4x in Parallel to provide the rated Ah capacity.
At 50% DoD you need 2x in parallel to proceed the rated Ah capacity.
50% is effectively 'Dead' even for so called 'Deep Cycle' and seriously shortens the battery life.
It's all in maintenance with flooded lead/acid opposed to gel or AGM which take little to no maintenance.
And let's not forget the weight/space/venting issues...

*IF* this is going to be long term thing, you will still come out way ahead with LFP, but the up front cost is HUGE.
*IF* space & weight are an issue, then again, LFP wins, hands down.
LFP isn't perfect, they won't charge under freezing, but they are safe enough to be in the climate controlled parts of the living space.

*IF* someone is willing to do basic maintenance about once a week, and it's outdoors/vented, then the flooded will work like any other lead/acid.
 
JeepHammer - I'd like to think that the basic maintainence needed will be done, but we both know that may not happen. I think I'll stay with the AGMs as previously discussed. When I do my personal build, we'll revisit the LFP batteries.
 
  • I would start with FLA batteries because they are more forgiving for your learning experience. Learning with lithium could be an expensive lesson.
  • Instead of Duracell FLA I would recommend Trojan. Dealers also have a “house brand” private label by Trojan for less money and are just as good.
  • FLA is not compatible with humans due to venting hydrogen gas. Locate outside, however if they must go inside then pay more for AGM or lithium. If they must go outside, then freezing is a problem for lithium.
  • What AC loads are you planning to run with the inverter? 230ah is not much capacity, so instead plan on finding 12V equipment that will be more efficient to operate.
If the battery just sits, isn't moving around, then lead/acid works.
Golf carts have used FLA forever, and see a lot of abuse by drunk golfers.
 
  • I would start with FLA batteries because they are more forgiving for your learning experience. Learning with lithium could be an expensive lesson.
  • Instead of Duracell FLA I would recommend Trojan. Dealers also have a “house brand” private label by Trojan for less money and are just as good.
  • FLA is not compatible with humans due to venting hydrogen gas. Locate outside, however if they must go inside then pay more for AGM or lithium. If they must go outside, then freezing is a problem for lithium.
  • What AC loads are you planning to run with the inverter? 230ah is not much capacity, so instead plan on finding 12V equipment that will be more efficient to operate.

Golf carts have used FLA forever, and see a lot of abuse by drunk golfers.
The only thing he's going to run is a dorm frig off an inverter, 2 - 6 watt led lights (12v) and charge his phone. I am building a wall at the rear of his trailer to create a "garage area", which is where the batteries will be mounted, so venting FLA batteries isn't an issue back there. Lithium isn't going to happen for him due to the cost. I'm paying for this build out of my pocket and if I don't have litiums, he certainly isn't getting them BTW - i am putting a 250 watt apnel on the roof, so I think that along with 230/240 amps hrs of batteries will give him what he needs. I will check on the Trojans. Thanks for the head's up.
 
That's a good price for those batteries, and I prefer them to AGMs. I say go for it.
My understanding is that 2 of those 6v batteries wired in series will give us 230 amp hrs at 12v. My only concern is whether he will maintain them as needed. My other choice is year old 80 amp hr AGMs (3) at $60 ea.
 
I was at Batteries+ today and I saw these Duracell 230 amp hr 6V batteries. Would they work with a small system - 250 watt panel, controller, 750 watt inverter and a small charger? The price is attractive if the batteries are a good fit for the system I'm putting together. Thanks


OK....Take the following with a grain of salt.... it is a data point without much data..

I have a cabin with 4 of those exact same batteries wired in series for a 24Volt system. I chose them for the exact same reason that caught your eye: They were the cheapest. I started wondering about my choice soon after I laid out the money. When I tried to contact duracell to get the exact charge profile, they had no idea what I was talking about.... after getting passed around to several different people, the best I got was "I think these are correct". At that point I decided that perhaps saving a few dollars may not have been the best choice, but I was already committed.

Fast forward a couple years: The cabin is empty way more than occupied so they spent most of their life on a trickle charger with the accumulation, bulk and float voltages set to what I was told. My sister reported last fall that they are dead. Unfortunately the cabin is a long way off and inaccessible in the winter so I have not been able to get there and examine the system.... so I don't know if it was the batteries or something else in the system.

That is the whole story up to this point..... I wish I could tell you more..... but I won't know more till late spring when I get back out there.
 
OK....Take the following with a grain of salt.... it is a data point without much data..

I have a cabin with 4 of those exact same batteries wired in series for a 24Volt system. I chose them for the exact same reason that caught your eye: They were the cheapest. I started wondering about my choice soon after I laid out the money. When I tried to contact duracell to get the exact charge profile, they had no idea what I was talking about.... after getting passed around to several different people, the best I got was "I think these are correct". At that point I decided that perhaps saving a few dollars may not have been the best choice, but I was already committed.

Fast forward a couple years: The cabin is empty way more than occupied so they spent most of their life on a trickle charger with the accumulation, bulk and float voltages set to what I was told. My sister reported last fall that they are dead. Unfortunately the cabin is a long way off and inaccessible in the winter so I have not been able to get there and examine the system.... so I don't know if it was the batteries or something else in the system.

That is the whole story up to this point..... I wish I could tell you more..... but I won't know more till late spring when I get back out there.
I appreciate the info. If the mfg can't answer those questions, it's probably best to pass on them. I saw a Youtube video comparing a Costco 6v and a "low end" Trojan (both under $100) and it opened up a whole host of questions for me, the biggest one being "duty cycle". The Costco had 300 cycles, the Trojan 500. Even at the most minimal use, 500 cycles is about 2 years. I need to do more research on this stuff. I know lithiums are the best route, but $ won't allow them.
 
My wife works at a golf course that uses electric carts. They get drained and charged 7 days a week and last at least 3 years in hot Florida.

With a lighter draw and easier life, such as in this case, it should last longer. Just top off the water every 2 or 3 months (takes 3 minutes ber battery). If you want to know more about your batteries health you can test them with a hydrometer.

I've used many FLAs and AGM banks over the years on my boats, and FLA's almost always outlasted AGMs...if minimaly cared for. But if your friend will never check the water, go with the AGMs.
 
My only concern is whether he will maintain them as needed.

For the truly lazy (speaking from personal experience) the Trojan HydroLink is about as low effort as you can get. Stick the hose into the bottle and squeeze the bulb. Water stops flowing when the battery is full so impossible to overfill, unless the brother squeezes when the batteries are really discharged.
 
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