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EasyStart Issues - Condenser Faults

Sounds like you either have a bad start capacitor in the Easystart or the SCR/relay/fuse in Easystart that makes the start capacitor connection to compressor start winding connection during spin up time is bad.

I have had the big black start capacitor in Easystart go bad.

A Trane 3.5 ton compressor should have about a 120-150 uF start capacitor in the Easystart. 270-324 uF is too large mfd. for a 3.5 ton Trane. Because of the voltage ramping it is unlikely to hurt anything, but you will spin up quicker resulting in less peak surge current reduction.

My 368 BT was ordered for the 4-5 ton sized unit and came with 189-227 uF start cap installed. I changed it to 140 uF to lengthen the startup time to about 0.5 seconds

I looked up what Copeland recommended for that compressor model number hardstart kit start capacitor value. They listed 88-108 uF. Hardstart kits do not have the softstart voltage ramp so they can cause a rather abrupt spin up time that is mechanically stressful on compressor if start capacitor value is too large.

This was Easystart recommended start capacitor sizing: You should go by the compressor BTU rating, not the air conditioner unit BTU rating. A high efficiency, large condenser A/C will have a larger unit BTU rating than its compressor BTU rating. My 4 ton Trane has a 38k btu rated compressor installed.

Capacitor Sizing:
72-86MFD - Up to 12K BTU
88-106MFD - 13-23K BTU
108-130MFD - 24-36K BTU
189-227MFD - 37-48K BTU
270-324MFD - 49-72K BTU
115VAC applications can use 250V or 330V rated start capacitors.
230VAC applications must use 330V rated start capacitors.
 
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Sounds like you either have a bad start capacitor in the Easystart or the SCR/relay/fuse in Easystart

The cap in the EasyStart checks good with my capacitance meter. The fuse also checks good. Not sure about the relay, etc.

270-324 uF is too large mfd. for a 3.5 ton Trane.

I have a 4 ton unit and Micro-Air recommends the 368-X72-BLUE, and the one I got has the 270-324 uF cap.

In any case since it immediately faults, I assume it's a component on the board
 
Well, how about that. I sent the log file from the Easy Start and had opened a case. Surprisingly (to me based on my last go around with them), they sent this.

"Log results:
At the time of this report it shows that you have something that is failing and the Easy Start needs to be replaced.
Open a case in the link above & include the following:
1-Name, shipping address, phone number, & email address.
2-Micro Air receipt (or copy of a receipt showing name, address, date, model & price)
3-The Easy Start serial number.
As soon as the case is made and we see it, we’ll get a replacement starter coming to you."

I've sent them the info, and now we shall see.

EDIT I may have spoken too soon. The email I received above was from the log file I sent. I then received another email in response to the support ticket that I had already opened. In that ticket, I explained some of the previous issues I had with the mystery faults. They once again tried to blame my compressor for magically going into overload 4 or 5 times on the one run cycle I just happened to look at the app, and never had another fault after that until it failed.

In any case, they said this:

"However this is a different case with a different system issue and we will need information for this case.
1. A clear picture of your Data Label. (located outside near the electrical enclosure cover)
2. A clear picture of your Wiring Diagram. ( located on the inside of the electrical enclosure cover)
3. Clear pictures of your electrical enclosure showing all connections and components with Easy Start installed.
4. A clear picture of the Easy Start cover showing the label. (located on the outside of the Easy Start cover)
We will be able to start assisting you once we have all the information requested above.
Using the information above we will be able to give more complete and accurate answers/instructions."

WTF? They already said the unit had failed and needed to be replaced, and now they want even more info and pictures???
 
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I'm trying not to lose my cool. So after hearing nothing from them yesterday, I sent another e-mail asking what more they need. They sent me an email that had the picture I sent them that shows where I had the Easy Start connected. They annotated the picture saying the white and black wires must be attached to the screw terminals and not the contactor lugs or else miswiring faults can happen, and then in the email they state miswiring can cause damage and imply it won't be covered. But yet their own install video shows using spade connectors!!

From the e-mail:
"We do see a miswiring issue that would cause faults and damage see the attachment. However it is unclear weather this miswiring damaged the Easy Start."

WTF? I know that is not the issue, but if it was, are they not going to honor their warranty when they tell you to use spade connectors? Are they going to try and blame that for the failed unit regardless of what actually happened?

Then as icing on the cake, the last part of the RMA instructions says this:
"Be sure the completed form is in the box with the product or the receiver will not know what it is for and throw it away."

WTF again!! They will just throw away a nearly $400 item because someone forgets to put a paper in with it? The unit has a serial number (and it is linked to my case number). The box should have a return address. How much effort would it be to match it up with one of those or wait until someone contacts them about the status? Do they have that many returns??

Just sounds like they are using whatever excuse they can to not have to honor a warranty. I hope I am wrong, but we shall see.
 

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Your message is mostly clear, but I’ve made a few adjustments for clarity:

---

Yep, I got the same treatment. I was told to buy another with a 10% discount. I don't think so! It seems like they just don't care if a few units fail since they’re phasing them out and moving to their all-in-one model. It’s sad because they wouldn’t even service them either.
 
Just another update. I had received another e-mail with an attachment of the install manual where is does state to use the screw terminals. However, they did not comment on my statement that their own install video uses the blade terminals. And I really fail to see how it makes any difference since all of the condenser connections use them anyway. They have been used for decades without issues.

In any case, per their direction, I sent the unit to them (with tracking and insured). Despite their claim that I would receive an automated acknowledgement when it was received, I have not. I sent them an e-mail asking to confirm receipt and all I hear are crickets.
 
They finally replied and said this:

"We are in possession of the return. We will have our technician evaluate the unit for warranty. "

Funny that they need to evaluate it even though they had already told me that the log file said it had failed. Waiting to see if they try to blame the spade connectors and claim it was my fault. Keep in mind it worked for over 2000 starts, and the connectors were in the exact same perfect condition as the day it was installed.
 
Final update (hopefully). MicroAir sent me a new unit. After looking at the new one, I think the relay on the old one had gone bad. I say that because the inspection sticker that was stuck on the relay of the old one was sort of brown like it had gotten hot. The new one is still white.

In any case, it is working again. But as I noted earlier, I don't feel like I can trust it not to fail again (especially if I am away for days). So after it finishes re-learning the starts, I am going to remove it from the circuit (all 4 wires) and just have it ready to go in case I do need to use my generator. It literally takes less than 30 seconds to reconnect.
 
Sounds like you either have a bad start capacitor in the Easystart or the SCR/relay/fuse in Easystart that makes the start capacitor connection to compressor start winding connection during spin up time is bad.

I have had the big black start capacitor in Easystart go bad.

A Trane 3.5 ton compressor should have about a 120-150 uF start capacitor in the Easystart. 270-324 uF is too large mfd. for a 3.5 ton Trane. Because of the voltage ramping it is unlikely to hurt anything, but you will spin up quicker resulting in less peak surge current reduction.

My 368 BT was ordered for the 4-5 ton sized unit and came with 189-227 uF start cap installed. I changed it to 140 uF to lengthen the startup time to about 0.5 seconds

I looked up what Copeland recommended for that compressor model number hardstart kit start capacitor value. They listed 88-108 uF. Hardstart kits do not have the softstart voltage ramp so they can cause a rather abrupt spin up time that is mechanically stressful on compressor if start capacitor value is too large.

This was Easystart recommended start capacitor sizing: You should go by the compressor BTU rating, not the air conditioner unit BTU rating. A high efficiency, large condenser A/C will have a larger unit BTU rating than its compressor BTU rating. My 4 ton Trane has a 38k btu rated compressor installed.

Capacitor Sizing:
72-86MFD - Up to 12K BTU
88-106MFD - 13-23K BTU
108-130MFD - 24-36K BTU
189-227MFD - 37-48K BTU
270-324MFD - 49-72K BTU
115VAC applications can use 250V or 330V rated start capacitors.
230VAC applications must use 330V rated start capacitors.
Would it be better yet to use a 400V cap on 230VAC systems. I could mount it external to the softstart?
 
Yes, AC voltage is measured as RMS so peak to peak voltage is actually 230V x 1.414 = 325V

That is why standard HVAC capacitors are rated at 370V or 440V.
 
Yes, AC voltage is measured as RMS so peak to peak voltage is actually 230V x 1.414 = 325V

That is why standard HVAC capacitors are rated at 370V or 440V.
My Hyper Softstart has a 250 V Start Cap in it, seems low for the application.
 
One more update.

I think my old EasyStart may have gone bad a lot sooner than I thought, and before it actually totally died. When I first installed the old unit, it worked fine and my lights no longer dimmed when the AC came on. At some point I decided to test it with my generator. The AC started ok. However, after that, I did notice that the lights would dim again when the AC started. This despite the app saying my start current was still low (like before the gen test). I just sort of shrugged it off and I never bothered to put a clamp meter to double check.

Then (as I noted in another thread) one day I got a bunch of random faults all during the same run cycle of the AC. MicroAir tried to tell me my compressor was overheating and opening the thermal switch on the compressor. I knew this was BS for several reasons. First this is a new condenser unit that is running perfectly (I have my HVAC certification and can tell when things are not right). I also have a power logging unit and it never showed any cut-off of the compressor. Plus I was standing right next to the unit when these faults were logging and it was running just fine. Lastly, I never got another fault until about 600 starts later when the unit finally totally died

I have been using the new unit for about 3 weeks and once again my lights do not dim when the compressor starts. Now I sort of wonder if it did not like the generator and that's what started to make it crap out. I know that gen start is one of the reasons people buy these, but as someone else noted above, they now have newer versions.
 
One more update.

I think my old EasyStart may have gone bad a lot sooner than I thought, and before it actually totally died. When I first installed the old unit, it worked fine and my lights no longer dimmed when the AC came on. At some point I decided to test it with my generator. The AC started ok. However, after that, I did notice that the lights would dim again when the AC started. This despite the app saying my start current was still low (like before the gen test). I just sort of shrugged it off and I never bothered to put a clamp meter to double check.

Then (as I noted in another thread) one day I got a bunch of random faults all during the same run cycle of the AC. MicroAir tried to tell me my compressor was overheating and opening the thermal switch on the compressor. I knew this was BS for several reasons. First this is a new condenser unit that is running perfectly (I have my HVAC certification and can tell when things are not right). I also have a power logging unit and it never showed any cut-off of the compressor. Plus I was standing right next to the unit when these faults were logging and it was running just fine. Lastly, I never got another fault until about 600 starts later when the unit finally totally died

I have been using the new unit for about 3 weeks and once again my lights do not dim when the compressor starts. Now I sort of wonder if it did not like the generator and that's what started to make it crap out. I know that gen start is one of the reasons people buy these, but as someone else noted above, they now have newer versions.
The start cap is the likely suspect. There are two versions.The new version is B36 the OLD B34. When I ordered one they sent the B34. I raised this issue and with some further discussion they sent me one of the B36 units. The B34 apparently has lower voltage Start Caps in it that can be damaged with SOME compressors. The B36 has higher voltage caps. NOTE: is is somewhat speculative since these exact words were never spoken to me. However, by reading between the lines this makes more sense. You should be able to seen what you have by looking thru the clear lid. The OLD one also has 6 caps which appear to be wired in seres/ parallel. I assume series to make them nopolar (which halves the capacitance) then parallel to increase the capacitance. I have not checked the new one yet.
The failing Start CAP could cause the start relay, which opens due run, to carry more current during the start cycle, causing it to overheat.
 
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There are two versions.The new version is B36 the OLD B34
Where are you seeing the version? Both of mine looked identical and are model ASY-368-X72-BLUE. The both have one large capacitor (which checked fine in the failed one).
 
Where are you seeing the version? Both of mine looked identical and are model ASY-368-X72-BLUE. The both have one large capacitor (which checked fine in the failed one).
Sorry for the slow response. The multiple caps are used in the newer universal units. I believe it is called EasyStart FLEX (ASY-398-X1S-BL)
The first version of those, B34, had caps with low voltage ratings that tended to fail on "certain" compressors. The newer B36 variants have higher voltage rated caps.
This is at my son's house so I do not have immediate access to it but I think it is smaller so they had to go with smaller caps, but lots of them, to achieve the same capacitance.

See the pic here:

Curious, how did you check the capacitance? I have checked the caps in failed units using a Cap / ESR meter (Peak ESR70). All of the units I checked had either very low capacitance or high ESR.
 
With a HVAC capacitor tester.
So it just measures capacitance. I have done DIY HVAC for more than 30 years. I used to replace run caps only when they failed but in the last 10 years went to proactive mode -every two years because they newer ones just don't last that long, particularly the Chinese ones. Failure as you know is not fun in Texas. In any event I have seen seen a number of instances when a bad run cap checked fine capacitance wise, but had high Equivalent Series Resistance ( ESR ). In every one of these cases replacing the cap fixed the problem. The caps in the Soft starts as I'm sure you know are just start caps temporarily placed in parallel with the run cap. I found a good generic diagram that describes how all this works if you are interested. I learned a lot from it.

BTW my backgoud is EE, Test and Measurement for 30+ years. ESR testing is common in electronics work, particularly repair work. In HVAC? Not so much.
 
So it just measures capacitance.

No, it's multi-meter that measures current etc. but has capacitance function.

I still think the relay on it went out because as I noted earlier, the label on the relay looked discolored like it had over-heated. The replacement looks fine.
 
Final update (hopefully). MicroAir sent me a new unit. After looking at the new one, I think the relay on the old one had gone bad. I say that because the inspection sticker that was stuck on the relay of the old one was sort of brown like it had gotten hot. The new one is still white.

In any case, it is working again. But as I noted earlier, I don't feel like I can trust it not to fail again (especially if I am away for days). So after it finishes re-learning the starts, I am going to remove it from the circuit (all 4 wires) and just have it ready to go in case I do need to use my generator. It literally takes less than 30 seconds to reconnect.
After studying the generic Softstart diagram I believe your diagnosis of bad relay is correct. If it was the start cap relay, similar is function to a potential relay, that stuck closed, it could overheat the relay. That would also likely kill the start cap in the softstart. If it is the Triac bypass relay and developed high contact resistance that could also overheat.
 
.... I found a good generic diagram that describes how all this works if you are interested. I learned a lot from it.

BTW my backgoud is EE, Test and Measurement for 30+ years. ESR testing is common in electronics work, particularly repair work. In HVAC? Not so much.
Will appreciate if can share here. Thanks.
 
Will appreciate if can share here. Thanks.
Here is a generic Softstart diagram that can help one understand how they work. This is not my diagram. IIRC it came from a very smart guy RCin FLA.
 

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I have not had a 'Flex' version to dissect, but my first impression is I don't like it. I think the primary attribute is lowering their manufacturing cost and inventory SKU reduction. Warranty-wise, they now don't expect there to be any reason for the user to open the case. I don't see the 'Flex' version having a benefit to customer, other than they don't have to know the unit's btu size with one-shoe fits all size 'Flex' version SoftStarter..

With the voltage ramping you can compensate a little for non-optimum start capacitor valve.

Most generic hardstart kits have too large mfd value to their included start capacitor. If it spins up the motor in less than 0.3 seconds the start capacitor value is too large. This put additional mechanical stress on compressor spinning it up too fast. You want to stay in the 0.3 to 0.6 second spin-up time period.

Startup capacitor value does not affect start current very much, by itself. It does affect the current phasing relationship between run and start windings. The closer the current phase delta is to 90 degrees, the more rotor torque is generated that spins the motor up faster. Too fast spin-up is mechanically stressful.

The voltage ramping (dimmer) reduces the startup surge current. Without the larger start capacitor giving more startup torque, just voltage ramping will reduce the peak surge current but also lengthen the startup time period. This is how the start capacitor and voltage ramping work together to allow voltage ramping without startup time lengthening too much due to higher initial torque during startup the start capacitor provides.

I measure the run and start capacitors with impedance meter. Foil Run capacitors run ESR's of a few milliohms. Electrolytic Start capacitors are much greater series resistance, running ESR's of about 0.3 to 0.5 ohms.

The greater ESR of electrolytic start capacitors is why they cannot be in-circuit active too long during startup period or they will overheat causing the electrolyte to out-gas and burst the vent port on start capacitor. As electrolyte dries out, over time, the capacitance of the start capacitor decreases.
 
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I have not had a 'Flex' version to dissect, but my first impression is I don't like it. I think the primary attribute is lowering their manufacturing cost and inventory SKU reduction. Warranty-wise, they now don't expect there to be any reason for the user to open the case. I don't see the 'Flex' version having a benefit to customer, other than they don't have to know the unit's btu size with one-shoe fits all size 'Flex' version SoftStarter..

With the voltage ramping you can compensate a little for non-optimum start capacitor valve.

Most generic hardstart kits have too large mfd value to their included start capacitor. If it spins up the motor in less than 0.3 seconds the start capacitor value is too large. This put additional mechanical stress on compressor spinning it up too fast. You want to stay in the 0.3 to 0.6 second spin-up time period.

Startup capacitor value does not affect start current very much, by itself. It does affect the phasing relationship between run and start windings. The closer the current phase delta is to 90 degrees, the more rotor torque is generated that spins the motor up faster. Too fast spin-up is mechanically stressful.

The voltage ramping (dimmer) reduces the startup surge current. Without the larger start capacitor giving more startup torque, just voltage ramping will reduce the peak surge current but also lengthen the startup time period. This is how the start capacitor and voltage ramping work together to allow voltage ramping without startup time lengthening too much due to higher initial torque during startup the start capacitor provides.

I measure the run and start capacitors with impedance meter. Foil Run capacitors run ESR's of a few milliohms. Electrolytic Start capacitors are much greater series resistance, running ESR's of about 0.3 to 0.5 ohms.
Good to hear from you. Thanks for all you insights, great diagrams, and good ballpark values above. I agree with your comments. They just use the MAX sized Start cap required for 6 T inside the SS and then rely on voltage ramping to constrain the start time to 300-600mS range. They appear to have used a series connection of two polar caps ( +to+) to synthesize a non-polar cap so they can use the short squatty electrolytics rather than the larger specific start caps. By using 3 of these series connected banks in parallel they can build the necessary total capacitance and can increase the total cap voltage (400V now IIIRC) so it has more margin on the compressors that were causing these caps to fail. At least this is what I surmised by talking to their techs. It is also possible that they could be switching in just enough of the banks to optimize the start time.

No doubt the Poly Film caps are much better caps and should last the life of the compressor but they are big and expensive when high voltage and high capacitance is desired. I suppose they could be mounted outside the box. I will hook up a scope to the motor to see what the start time is. I have and old Tektronix 222 prototype I got from engineering that has isolated differential inputs that should make this task easy. It is also battery powered.
I would like to put these on all my compressors to reduce voltage sags, startup noise, and make it a little easier on my Powerwalls but I am concerned reliability is not good enough to have them being used full time. Though we have 10 T of total AC, spread out over 4 systems, including the shop I have never had a problems with starting the compressors with no SS's. Maybe they never all tried to start at once.
I did help my son put two of the Easy Starts on his units which he needs because he uses a 9.5kW portable generator for backup here in Houston. They have worked great for the last 6 months.
 
I did help my son put two of the Easy Starts on his units which he needs because he uses a 9.5kW portable generator for backup here in Houston. They have worked great for the last 6 months.
I replace the start capacitor and run capacitor every year after cleaning the condenser coil. $25 for the two capacitors is a cheap insurance policy. Contactor should last a lot longer with softstarter reducing the peak startup current the contacts are subjected to.

The softstarter start capacitor will mask a bad run capacitor so you have to be aware of this by checking Run current every so often. Power factor will also significantly degrade if Run cap goes bad.

I have recorded 20 to 40 starts per day depending on how hot it is outside. That is in the ballpark of about 10,000 starts per year.
 
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replace the start capacitor and run capacitor every year
What a great idea! I have just been replacing the combined start/run cap when it fails, but that was before installing the Microair Easystart.
The compressor is in the Sun most of the day, caps get really hot in both the compressor and the Easystart. Probably reduces the service life.
Should I also replace the Easystart cap on a schedule?
goodman start run capacitor copy.jpeg
 

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