• Have you tried out dark mode?! Scroll to the bottom of any page to find a sun or moon icon to turn dark mode on or off!

diy solar

diy solar

EasyStart Issues - Condenser Faults

Should I also replace the Easystart cap on a schedule?
The start capacitor is the large black plastic cased capacitor inside the Easystart. Two plug-in lugs on cap and two tie-wraps to hold down capacitor.

The new 'Flex' version is not so easy to change out and voids warranty. Two leaded PCB soldered electrolytic caps connected back-to-back for cap polarity to make large mfd value bi-polar AC current electrolytic capacitor.
 
I replace the start capacitor and run capacitor every year after cleaning the condenser coil. $25 for the two capacitors is a cheap insurance policy. Contactor should last a lot longer with softstarter reducing the peak startup current the contacts are subjected to.

The softstarter start capacitor will mask a bad run capacitor so you have to be aware of this by checking Run current every so often. Power factor will also significantly degrade if Run cap goes bad.

I have recorded 20 to 40 starts per day depending on how hot it is outside. That is in the ballpark of about 10,000 starts per year.
I replace mine as well but I don't usually use the cheap Chinese caps. Usually use Amrad which cost only a little more and are USA made. I also often replace the DUAL run cap with separate run caps for Fan and Compressor. That way the fan cap is not heated by the compressor run cap and lasts a lot longer, usually the life of the Condening unit.
If you are only starting 30-40 times per day congratulations! Your AC is sized more correctly. My average is closer to 60 in the summer. Agree with the contractor point. Good point on the Run cap masking.
Also like your idea on the quick disconnect you included Aug 6th. Makes reverting back to original no SS connection very easy.

Do you have any thoughts on how one might optimize the size of the RUN cap? I usually just use the size spec'd by the Manufacturer ( confirmed with a Cap/ESR meter ) but thought some improvement might be had here.
 
The start capacitor is the large black plastic cased capacitor inside the Easystart. Two plug-in lugs on cap and two tie-wraps to hold down capacitor.

The new 'Flex' version is not so easy to change out and voids warranty. Two leaded PCB soldered electrolytic caps connected back-to-back for cap polarity to make large mfd value bi-polar AC current electrolytic capacitor.
That is correct except there are 6 caps. Not hard to do if you can solder. There are no seals to reveal they have been replaced if you do good work. But they should not fail during the warranty period if you wire and apply them correctly-the rated lifespan is 100,000 starts. If you can still get the old one it would be easier to self service but I don't think there are many of the non- flex models left.
 
Best to use the specified value by unit manufacturer. Unless you have the equipment to measure the current phasing between run and start (auxiliary) windings you cannot really tell the correct run capacitor value. I use closed loop high bandwidth hall effect current sensors on run and start windings, with hall effect sensors displayed on multichannel oscilloscope.

Measuring compressor power factor is a method but it is not super accurate. Make sure you are measuring current on compressor common lead and voltage across Run winding for PF reading.

Another rough way is to measure run winding current and start winding current then calculate sqrt( run winding current ^2 + start (aux) winding current ^2). If this result is close to compressor common wire current, then you are close to correct Run capacitor value. When current between run and start windings is 90 degrees phase shifted, indicating proper run cap mfd value, then the square root of sum of squares gives the net common wire compressor current.

For example, run winding reads 10.3 amps rms, start (auxiliary) winding reads 6.9 amps rms, common compressor wire reads 12.4 amps.
sqrt ( 10.3A ^2 + 6.9A ^2) = 12.4 amps.

There is also variance on optimum run capacitor depending on compressor mechanical load. Typical average outside temp 80-90 degs F running current on compressor is between 60% and 65% of RLA nameplate rating if you have nominal AC voltage level at unit. Phoenix or Las Vegas in summertime will be 85% to 90% of nameplate RLA. Compressor load also goes up if condenser coil is clogged up with dirt.

The run capacitor and run currents have nothing to do with Easystart as soft-starter only applies to startup period.

The measurement of phase shift between run and start windings during startup period is even trickier. The phase shift will change as rotor slip changes. It is fairly flat between 20% and 80% of startup period.

I don't think you ever want to get close to 90 degrees current phase shift during startup period. This would produce too much startup rotor torque and may damage compressor, like snapping Oldham ring that keeps orbiting scroll from rotating. With too large a start capacitor the compressor rpm's will go from 0 to about 3500 rpm's in less than 0.1 seconds.

Best way to select a hard start cap value is to look for 0.3 to 0.6 seconds of startup time period.
 
Last edited:
Best to use the specified value by unit manufacturer. Unless you have the equipment to measure the current phasing between run and start (auxiliary) windings you cannot really tell the correct run capacitor value. I use closed loop high bandwidth hall effect current sensors on run and start windings, with hall effect sensors displayed on multichannel oscilloscope.

Measuring compressor power factor is a method but it is not super accurate. Make sure you are measuring current on compressor common lead and voltage across Run winding for PF reading.

Another rough way is to measure run winding current and start winding current then calculate sqrt( run winding current ^2 + start (aux) winding current ^2). If this result is close to compressor common wire current, then you are close to correct Run capacitor value. When current between run and start windings is 90 degrees phase shifted, indicating proper run cap mfd value, then the square root of sum of squares gives the net common wire compressor current.

For example, run winding reads 10.3 amps rms, start (auxiliary) winding reads 6.9 amps rms, common compressor wire reads 12.4 amps.
sqrt ( 10.3A ^2 + 6.9A ^2) = 12.4 amps.

There is also variance on optimum run capacitor depending on compressor mechanical load. Typical average outside temp 80-90 degs F running current on compressor is between 60% and 65% of RLA nameplate rating if you have nominal AC voltage level at unit. Phoenix or Las Vegas in summertime will be 85% to 90% of nameplate RLA. Compressor load also goes up if condenser coil is clogged up with dirt.

The run capacitor and run currents have nothing to do with Easystart as soft-starter only applies to startup period.

The measurement of phase shift between run and start windings during startup period is even trickier. The phase shift will change as rotor slip changes. It is fairly flat between 20% and 80% of startup period.

I don't think you ever want to get close to 90 degrees current phase shift during startup period. This would produce too much startup rotor torque and may damage compressor, like snapping Oldham ring that keeps orbiting scroll from rotating. With too large a start capacitor the compressor rpm's will go from 0 to about 3500 rpm's in less than 0.1 seconds.

Best way to select a hard start cap value is to look for 0.3 to 0.6 seconds of startup time period.
Thanks so much for the detailed feedback. I knew you were the right guy to ask. You are incredibly knowledgeable. Might I enquire how/ where you got the much knowledge? I would presume much of what we are discussing here is rendered irrelevant with inverter based systems.
 
Thanks so much for the detailed feedback. I knew you were the right guy to ask. You are incredibly knowledgeable. Might I enquire how/ where you got the much knowledge? I would presume much of what we are discussing here is rendered irrelevant with inverter based systems.
When you say inverter based systems, I assume you are referring to variable speed compressors like what you find in most mini-splits.

They are three phase motors. No start capacitor is required for three phase motors. Each of the three windings are physically offset by 120 degrees. The three phase AC source should also be 120 degrees offset to match. This yields a rotating field.

Changing compressor motor rpm's means varying the AC frequency. That is the job of the three phase inverter. Assuming the motor is two pole design which is most often the case, the typical frequency range will be 20 Hz to 75 Hz. Hyper-heat compressors make higher rpm's with an inverter running up to as high as 144 Hz. For two-pole motor, multiply the frequency by 60 to get the approximate motor rpms. Most high efficiency mini-split compressors use permanent magnet rotor versus induction pickup rotors so there is no rotor slip and they run synchronous to applied AC frequency.

RMS AC voltage of inverter also varies in proportion to AC frequency, lower voltage for lower frequency drive.

Soft startup is designed into inverter variable speed systems. They ramp up frequency from 20 Hz so they start slow and get faster.
 
I am kind of new to the forum, but based on the discussion here about issues with EasyStart faults I thought I would ask my question here to see if anyone has had this issue. My EasyStart (asy-368-x48-blue) is not that old, but outside of the warranty period. It started to throw an “Unexpected Current Fault” in the BT app on startup and the compressor does not start. I pulled the SS and the compressor works fine without it.

I did some digging and found description of this fault as “EasyStart sees a large current at the beginning of the start process. Verify the wiring, then perform a relearn on the unit and monitor for additional faults. If faults persist after relearning then contact Micro-Air for assistance.”

I am 100% confident that my wiring is correct. The unit used to work just fine and Customer Service confirmed it was all good but told me the unit was damaged and needed replacement. Unfortunately they always say that these units are not serviceable. I check the start capacitor with a MM and it’s in the spec’s range. The relay has some darkening on the inspection sticker but seems to be ok otherwise. I checked each relay and they are open in de-energized state.

Based on the discussion here I was wondering if anyone experienced similar faults and if anyone has been able to replace individual components. In the past I have been pretty successful at sourcing individual components from Mouser and/or Digikey to replace.

As a side note: I have purchased a new Microair SS and it’s working fine, but thought I would fix this one and use it on another compressor.

Reading this thread I was encouraged that this might be fixable. Thank you all in advance.
 
I did some digging and found description of this fault as “EasyStart sees a large current at the beginning of the start process.

When I had my fault issues and had sent the log files, MicroAir told me it was my compressor current (despite the condenser unit being nearly new and working fine without the EasyStart). It was not until the unit totally failed a few weeks later that they finally agreed to replace it..

Based on the discussion here I was wondering if anyone experienced similar faults and if anyone has been able to replace individual components.

About the only thing that can be replaced easily is the big capacitor (on the older unit, not sure about the newer flex model). Mine checked good, but I saw what appeared to be heat related discoloring around the relay. I was not going to mess with it since they replaced it (and wanted the old one back).

The replacement unit has been working so far, but I replaced it near the end of the season, so only time will tell.
 
Also check your normal run capacitor. It adds to start cap during start period and if trained with start cap + run cap then loses run cap later it may stall during startup.

Being your compressor runs without EasyStart, the problem is likely with start cap or start cap circuitry. It is still doing the voltage ramp but without proper start capacitor torque boost it will not make run rpm speed within the allowed startup period of about half a second. If the start current has not dropped off by that time the unit will shutdown and set an error indication.

I would still change the start cap. They are about $10 and you should keep a spare on hand anyway. Careful with the cap physical size. Max size to fit in box is 1-13/16" diameter by 4-5/8" length.

There are two SCR's (Q15, Q16, part # JCT1675) and soldered down fuse (guess is about 20A) in the start cap circuit.

I had one of the SCR's blow out as shorted and shorted gate protection diode D29, which is why I traced out the schematic/layout attached below to repair unit. The shorted SCR toasted the electrolytic Start cap causing it to take a crap inside the box spraying its guts all over the inside of box. PDF layers are active in pdf file where you can turn on or off PCB layers.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Not sure I could source the components and repair my EasyStart Micro-Air ASY-368-X48-BLUE.

Plan "B", replace the EasyStart on a schedule, as w/ the start/run cap in the compressor.
The EasyStart has been running since March 2022.
If it goes 3 years, would that be a good PM replacement interval?
 
Yes, not happy about that option.
Plan "C" would be to just delete the EasyStart when it fails in service.

Now that I have two inverters, the 132A LRA of the Copeland scroll compressor might be OK.

Schneider multi-unit design guide says the inverters will sustain a 17kVa peak for 30 minutes.
No idea how they would react to a 31kVa instant load.

However, I do know that the generator really did not like the LRA, before the Easystart was installed.
 
I noticed mine has condensation inside the clear cover not enough ventilation inside.

It's supposed to be sealed (gasket on the cover) so there really should not be any condensation. I would take the cover off, dry it out and maybe throw a small descant pack in there.
 
I noticed mine has condensation inside the clear cover not enough ventilation inside.
Maybe it's condensation, maybe it is the start cap relieving itself.

When one of two start cap circuit SCR's went short in my unit I caught it within 15 minutes and inside of box looked like condensation, which was electrolyte spewing out of electrolytic start cap. I measured capacitance after removing it and it had lost about 30% of its capacitance. That is what happens to electrolytic caps when they lose electrolyte, or it dries out with age.

I had to clean everything inside the box with 91% isopropyl alcohol and dry it out before I could start to troubleshoot it.
 
Last edited:
Maybe it's condensation, maybe it is the start cap relieving itself.

When one of two start cap circuit SCR's went short in my unit I caught is within 15 minutes and inside of box looked like condensation, which was electrolyte spewing out of electrolytic start cap. I measured capacitance after removing it and it had lost about 30% of its capacitance. That is what happens to electrolytic caps when they lose electrolyte, or it dries out with age.

I had to clean everything inside the box with 91% isopropyl alcohol and dry it out before I could start to troubleshoot it.
The problem is cable too short right in the sun. High summer temps causes air to heat up lot. This is a rooftop 4 ton packaged unit most have a split system that is why the cables are so short.

Going to extend the wires and mount it inside a outdoor box then unscrew that vent plug so it can breath. Had the same problem with my hot tub controller kept building up condensation inside. After drilling a hole in the bottom haven't had a failure in 7 years.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240818_163141894.jpg
    PXL_20240818_163141894.jpg
    373.8 KB · Views: 6
Also check your normal run capacitor. It adds to start cap during start period and if trained with start cap + run cap then loses run cap later it may stall during startup.

Being your compressor runs without EasyStart, the problem is likely with start cap or start cap circuitry. It is still doing the voltage ramp but without proper start capacitor torque boost it will not make run rpm speed within the allowed startup period of about half a second. If the start current has not dropped off by that time the unit will shutdown and set an error indication.

I would still change the start cap. They are about $10 and you should keep a spare on hand anyway. Careful with the cap physical size. Max size to fit in box is 1-13/16" diameter by 4-5/8" length.

There are two SCR's (Q15, Q16, part # JCT1675) and soldered down fuse (guess is about 20A) in the start cap circuit.

I had one of the SCR's blow out as shorted and shorted gate protection diode D29, which is why I traced out the schematic/layout attached below to repair unit. The shorted SCR toasted the electrolytic Start cap causing it to take a crap inside the box spraying its guts all over the inside of box. PDF layers are active in pdf file where you can turn on or off PCB layers.
That’s an amazing amount of information. I was able to test the SCRs and Q16 was shorted totally shorted across all three legs. The gate diodes seem fine. I have removed them and will order replacements to install in the next week or so. Also like you I keep spare caps for all equipment. Cheap insurance as you said. I will replace the run cap and tidy up the SS. The weather is mild so might wait until it warms up to give it a go. Thanks for all the wisdom so far. Those PCB schematics are awesome. Thanks for sharing. I noticed you were in Houston as well. Any recommendation to source SCRs locally?
 
That’s an amazing amount of information. I was able to test the SCRs and Q16 was shorted totally shorted across all three legs. The gate diodes seem fine. I have removed them and will order replacements to install in the next week or so. Also like you I keep spare caps for all equipment. Cheap insurance as you said. I will replace the run cap and tidy up the SS. The weather is mild so might wait until it warms up to give it a go. Thanks for all the wisdom so far. Those PCB schematics are awesome. Thanks for sharing. I noticed you were in Houston as well. Any recommendation to source SCRs locally?
One more thing. My SCRs are 70TPS16 (link below). I am not sure if they have made a change but I cannot find model you have quote.

 
When mine failed, it turned out to be the run capacitor. I disconnected the Easy Start and reconnected a hard start capacitor that I had on the unit originally and it started up just fine. I ordered a new capacitor and replaced it, put the Easy Start back on and it fired right up.

Not to say that is your problem, but it's a common problem with AC's. I ordered another one as back up so I did not have to wait a day for Amazon delivery.

All that said, water inside the Easy Start could be problematic.
 
That’s an amazing amount of information. I was able to test the SCRs and Q16 was shorted totally shorted across all three legs. The gate diodes seem fine. I have removed them and will order replacements to install in the next week or so. Also like you I keep spare caps for all equipment. Cheap insurance as you said. I will replace the run cap and tidy up the SS. The weather is mild so might wait until it warms up to give it a go. Thanks for all the wisdom so far. Those PCB schematics are awesome. Thanks for sharing. I noticed you were in Houston as well. Any recommendation to source SCRs locally?
If SCR goes short, it will also fry the electrolytic start capacitor.

It may be safer to have a 330-ohm resistor from trigger gate and cathode on each SCR to keep it off when it is supposed to be off. If you get PCB humidity leakage across the two SCR trigger gates the SCR's will keep getting fired on. With no heat sinking, the SCR's cannot be active very long or they will overheat.

The way it is now designed the off state requires very high impedance for opto isolators and any PCB leakage between the SCR trigger gates. They also put two MOC3081 opto-isolators in series which I am guessing is for higher breakdown voltage margin for the start winding voltage spikes. This is a bit unorthodox.

I bought several JCT1675 SCR's off of AliExpress. Took about a week to get them for $8 postage charge. With the beefy bent over leads on PCB, they were a little bitchy to remove.

Specs look similar to the Vishey SCR on some builds of softstarter.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top