ECO-WORTHY 48V 100Ah 5120Wh LiFePO4 Server Rack Battery

[BarracudaBob]

Excellent progress. I knew that you would be able to figure this out. Looking forward to updates!

I did connect the eg4 battery hub to solar assistant and it came out as mobus on the polytech protocol. But it the JBDs even though they were on polytech still came across as JBD so it wasn't able to put them all together.

I haven't tried solar assistant on the rs232 but I'll definitely give that a go here the next day.

Keep up the good work. If you ever come up with a eg4 to jbd converter, that'll put the eg4 and jbd all on the same solar assistant. I'm definitely interested.

 

[Johneb]

what rack/ cabinet is everyone using for these batteries?

 

[BarracudaBob]

what rack/ cabinet is everyone using for these batteries?

I am using the E-W 4 pack rack but have already outgrown it. Waiting for their 6 pack rack to hit the market.

 

[BarracudaBob]

I have had a few people on the DIYSolarForum request that I do a review on the Big boy:
51.2V 280AH Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery Floor Standing Home Storage Battery with Adjustable Rollers
Finances aren't to good right now but it would be nice sitting in the corner

I have been eyeing the 5K AIO inverter a Pair of those would take care of all my loads.

To bad I can't find someone local to sell my older stuff at a great price. Then I can get all the new shiny stuff!

So many toys and so little money

 

[fuzzmunky415]

I have had a few people on the DIYSolarForum request that I do a review on the Big boy:
51.2V 280AH Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery Floor Standing Home Storage Battery with Adjustable Rollers
Finances aren't to good right now but it would be nice sitting in the corner

I have been eyeing the 5K AIO inverter a Pair of those would take care of all my loads.

To bad I can't find someone local to sell my older stuff at a great price. Then I can get all the new shiny stuff!

So many toys and so little money

I already have the solution for the tipping problem...buy two. Clamp/bolt together.

 

[fuzzmunky415]

I already have the solution for the tipping problem...buy two. Clamp/bolt together.

That AIO is currently $510...the white version is $595, claims 'Pro', and mentions parallel, so software settings for parallel included. Is the cheaper SRNE badge (orange) also parallelableable?

Edit: terribly sorry, didn't realize what thread I've derailed. Back on topic!

 

[BarracudaBob]

That AIO is currently $510...the white version is $595, claims 'Pro', and mentions parallel, so software settings for parallel included. Is the cheaper SRNE badge also parallelableable?

Edit: terribly sorry, didn't realize what thread I've derailed. Back on topic!

Hey, it connects to the battery that's on topic. I'll have to check out the white one. I assume it's 48 volt. I definitely would parallel them or split phase?

 

[fuzzmunky415]

Hey, it connects to the battery that's on topic. I'll have to check out the white one. I assume it's 48 volt. I definitely would parallel them or split phase?

Well the white one is 20A moar, and parallel seems to be 'a dip switch, detect and comm cables' simple process. Edit: yeah..split phase.

 

[wildbird12]

I placed all batteries in the rack and connected them, but I am hitting an issue (All batteries are fully charged (99-100%) ):

Each battery alone is fine, and there are no alarms.

If I connect battery 1 to battery 2 and turn on battery 1 and then battery 2, battery 1 starts up fine, but battery 2 starts up, and the red ALM alarm LED is blinking (I counted 10 blinks in about 18 seconds) and the RUN LED is steady. I am unclear on what the documentation tries to say about that. Under the "charge" status, there is a warning), but the highest SOC LED is not flashing; they are all steady. What is it trying to warn me of?

To troubleshoot this, I reversed the IDs (switched the dip switches of Battery 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 and also changed the RS485 around), but the same physical battery (number 2) will start blinking that ALM LED if it is connected to the other battery.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[jorby]

I placed all batteries in the rack and connected them, but I am hitting an issue (All batteries are fully charged (99-100%) ):

Each battery alone is fine, and there are no alarms.

If I connect battery 1 to battery 2 and turn on battery 1 and then battery 2, battery 1 starts up fine, but battery 2 starts up, and the red ALM alarm LED is blinking (I counted 10 blinks in about 18 seconds) and the RUN LED is steady. I am unclear on what the documentation tries to say about that. Under the "charge" status, there is a warning), but the highest SOC LED is not flashing; they are all steady. What is it trying to warn me of?

To troubleshoot this, I reversed the IDs (switched the dip switches of Battery 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 and also changed the RS485 around), but the same physical battery (number 2) will start blinking that ALM LED if it is connected to the other battery.

Any advice is appreciated.

I wish I could remember better, but I think I had one that did that and it corrected itself once it was cycled a bit. I could not figure out how to reset an alarm with the software.

 

[BarracudaBob]

It's not just state of charge. It's also voltage. They all need to be charged up to the same voltage when they're connected. Otherwise they'll fight each other and push and pull and do an overcurrent situation.

Every time I add a new battery I charge everything up to the max. I cycle on a separate inverter, the new one a couple times just to make sure everything's balanced out to the max.

It is a process. You don't just buy one and throw it in.

 

[BarracudaBob]

Even though I cycled it at least three times and Make sure everything balanced out. Number six is the new V2 and it's going down a little faster than all the other ones.

It takes him a little while for the everything to sync up with each other

 

[jorby]

Even though I cycled it at least three times and Make sure everything balanced out. Number six is the new V2 and it's going down a little faster than all the other ones.

It takes him a little while for the everything to sync up with each other

I am wondering if this isn't "algorithm learning" in the newly commissioned bms rather than actual cell condition. Then there is the "calibration" for each bms, which may or may not be absolutely accurate.

 

[BarracudaBob]

It's not just state of charge. It's also voltage. They all need to be charged up to the same voltage when they're connected. Otherwise they'll fight each other and push and pull and do an overcurrent situation.

Every time I add a new battery I charge everything up to the max. I cycle on a separate inverter, the new one a couple times just to make sure everything's balanced out to the max.

It is a process. You don't just buy one and throw it in.

I don't know but if there is you would think you would learn from going up and down predicting its capacity and then seeing it hit the knee voltage and it would be like. Oh wow I need to change a couple of my variables here

 

[Frugal Devonian]

 

[bhbaker220]

Gavin details the BMS and looks under the hood. Eco-Worthy.com $839.99 and free shipping. More batteries, more savings. Seems too good to be true. The battery rack should be good if it has a decent bus bar.

 

[jorby]

Gavin details the BMS and looks under the hood. Eco-Worthy.com $839.99 and free shipping. More batteries, more savings. Seems too good to be true. The battery rack should be good if it has a decent bus bar.

I assume you mean the new 6 place rack. The 4 place rack has no busbars.

 

[BarracudaBob]

@Gavin Stone did a pretty good review but there was a few things that we discovered here.

He did a very nice video. I guess I missed my chance at the big YouTube cash cow back a few years ago. Fishing, Diving, Hunting, and Technology. What's not to love.

Others please add/correct to my list:

BMS is JBD UP16C019A with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.
Pre-Charge is a PWM when the BMS turns on so no resistor but does the same thing

Didn't mention that it will do all the other protocols if you change it via windows software. I believe the E-W app will also do it.

It does have be cycled a few times and held at top to get the balance correct, negative there The Capacity is set by BMS so if you open it up say 110A it will give you more but he had a cell trigger UV. This is where my procedure with the Active Balancer on every new welded cell battery is priceless.

You can read a lot of the settings with the OverKill app but it only writes some variables. It isn't completely compatible.

Now on the discharge test. The battery cuts you off at 80% or at LV of cell or pack. So when I did mine here my results were between the 96 to 100A. Now would that be considered only the 80% level. If we would have taken it down another 20% to zero (bypassing protections) wouldn't it been closer to 120A?

The New UL Listed battery hopefully by May 2025 should have rapid shutdown and fire arrestor.

New 6 rack should be a available soon. There are no busbars. The cables connect the batteries on the outside terminals.

 

[Gavin Stone]

Good info here. Thanks.

That would be awesome if they have fire arrestors and rabid shutdown coming.

 

[marionw]

What an idiot. There are six temperature sensors. 4 on top of the cells, one MOSFET sensor and one BMS board ambient sensor.
What the idiot was calling temperature sensor attached to the faceplate is the Bluetooth antenna

 

[Brucey]

What an idiot. There are six temperature sensors. 4 on top of the cells, one MOSFET sensor and one BMS board ambient sensor.
What the idiot was calling temperature sensor attached to the faceplate is the Bluetooth antenna

He's on this thread, not sure if you are aware or care .

 

[fuzzmunky415]

Welcome you big idiot! The cells are from Rept: https://www.reptbattero.com/en/

Apparently they claim 3rd behind Calb and Eve.

 

[wildbird12]

I placed all batteries in the rack and connected them, but I am hitting an issue (All batteries are fully charged (99-100%) ):

Each battery alone is fine, and there are no alarms.

If I connect battery 1 to battery 2 and turn on battery 1 and then battery 2, battery 1 starts up fine, but battery 2 starts up, and the red ALM alarm LED is blinking (I counted 10 blinks in about 18 seconds) and the RUN LED is steady. I am unclear on what the documentation tries to say about that. Under the "charge" status, there is a warning), but the highest SOC LED is not flashing; they are all steady. What is it trying to warn me of?

To troubleshoot this, I reversed the IDs (switched the dip switches of Battery 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 and also changed the RS485 around), but the same physical battery (number 2) will start blinking that ALM LED if it is connected to the other battery.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you for the responses. I found out via the PC software that the alarm was for "charge temp low"—it is less than 50F in my garage. It is still weird that this only shows up when batteries 1 and 2 are connected.

Furthermore, the Voltages are (Batt 1) 54.3, (2) 53.9, (3) 53.66, and (4) 53.71 - is that not close enough? All batteries show SOC 100% and SOH 100, and remaining capacity 100aH.

Now - if I connect Batt 3 to Batt 1 it trips the main breaker of 3 - WTF??? It's OK on its own.

Are these batteries possibly all charged too high, so that they cannot exchange current because the are blocked from absorbing more?

 

[Brucey]

Welcome you big idiot! The batteries are from Rept: https://www.reptbattero.com/en/

Apparently they claim 3rd behind Calb and Eve.

I have 16 rept 280Ah cells from docan, quality product.

 

[BarracudaBob]

Thank you for the responses. I found out via the PC software that the alarm was for "charge temp low"—it is less than 50F in my garage. It is still weird that this only shows up when batteries 1 and 2 are connected.

Furthermore, the Voltages are (Batt 1) 54.3, (2) 53.9, (3) 53.66, and (4) 53.71 - is that not close enough? All batteries show SOC 100% and SOH 100, and remaining capacity 100aH.

Now - if I connect Batt 3 to Batt 1 it trips the main breaker of 3 - WTF??? It's OK on its own.

Are these batteries possibly all charged too high, so that they cannot exchange current because the are blocked from absorbing more?

All I can tell you is bring up all battery packs up to 57.8V and hold them. They should reset to 100% SOC. Pull the current from positive and negative from opposite side like + on battery 3 and - on battery 1.

Perhaps somebody else can help you on the to low temp thing. Here is South Florida we usually don't have to worry about that. It will be in 40F later this week. 2nd time in January BERRRRR