Eco-worthy 5k parallel / SRNE 5KW HYP split phase install

[marionw]

Thank you. Who knows, maybe the Cat 5 cable will show different info. But i doubt it.

In the picture I have or thought the "right" inverter was the master and the one on the "left" was the slave.

The right inverter is set to ID1 & 2P0, the left inverter is set to ID2 & 2P2. I would have thought the right would be the master. Tell me if i should switch the settings on them or not please.

The right inverter has grid input hardwired to it via means of a single pole 40 amp breaker in the main panel. It's providing 120V.

The left inverter you see that has a 10 gauge extension cord hard wired to it was for testing purposes only and I plugged it into a 15 amp outlet to charge the batteries. ( I'm considering this a back up mean of charging - this means of charging is limited because it's only a 15 amp breaker that i would plug into.

I don't think the battery is got down to 20% SOC, the inverters are still reading 52.4 volts. Connecting the app to the batteries is difficult for me but I managed to get one to connect and it still said 40% state of charge.

Still confused on which one is the master and which one is the slave..

I don't think anything I have is able to switch back to the grid because I have a manual sub panel transfer switch. It has "line" "off" and "gen". So if I have the transfer switch in gen, which I did for the overnight test, does not have the ability to switch itself back to grid via my sub panel.

Where you mention this,
In PV1ST or BT1ST, when you turn the power on/off rocker switch to off and with grid input the inverter will go into standby (shows as an icon on the lower right of the inverter screen). The AC Out/Load will turn off. The screen will time out and go blank but touching any of the controls will wake the screen back up. I never turn this switch to off before leaving it for the overnight test. It was still in the on position upon waking up and They're inverter Did not respond to me pressing any of the buttons so I had to toggle it off and then back on. This was on the right inverter.

For the dip switches I have the top one set as one and I thought that was the master battery in the one that has the dip switch in two was the slave.

Based on what you said about the positive and negative wires from the battery to the inverters. This is how I have them now, but rereading your response it seems that I need to have the negative cable connected to where my finger is pointing, yes?

I'm confused about the last paragraph mentioning 240 going to the inverters. Would you suggesting that I'm supposed to have a 2 pole 40 amp breaker instead of the single 40 amp breaker?

You can see what the right and left inverters are set to in the photos.

Eco worthy email customer service is not helping much, this is 100x more informative, so thank you

A Double breaker in the main panel which would feed both inverters. The double breaker outputs L1 and L2 (240vac). L1 and Neutral gets wired to inverter 1 and L2 and Neutral gets wired to inverter 2.

L1 and Neutral = 120vac, L2 and Neutral = 120vac. Each inverter can only take 120vac on it's grid input. Leaver the breakers on the left side of the inverter off until you measure the voltage on the AC/Grid terminals in the inverter to ensure you only have 120vac on these terminals.

The breaker on the left side on the Inverter needs to be on only if you want grid power into the inverter. It can be off if you want but the inverter would never be able to automatically shift to grid (bypass) if PV Array and battery cannot support the loads. This would be similar to an entirely off grid setup where there is no "grid" available. You could turn them on and shift the inverter to AC1ST if you need to charge the batteries.
If as you implied the "Main" panel did not have grid input as the input was from the Transfer switch then event the hard wired inverter did not have grid input

You can have either inverter as Master, doesn't matter.

The right inverter could not go into standby as there was no grid input. If the battery and PV array are not enough to support the load output the inverter will shut down because with no grid input it can't shift into bypass. It's possible some load on the subpanel kicked on (hot water heater?) that caused the inverter to shut down.

For the negative cable yes, connect to the bottom battery. This is a normal connection for multiple batteries connected in parallel to better force all batteries to equally support the load.

You might find that additional batteries would be a good thing to add as your budget allows.

 

[jcallesano]

A Double breaker in the main panel which would feed both inverters. The double breaker outputs L1 and L2 (240vac). L1 and Neutral gets wired to inverter 1 and L2 and Neutral gets wired to inverter 2.

L1 and Neutral = 120vac, L2 and Neutral = 120vac. Each inverter can only take 120vac on it's grid input. Leaver the breakers on the left side of the inverter off until you measure the voltage on the AC/Grid terminals in the inverter to ensure you only have 120vac on these terminals.

The breaker on the left side on the Inverter needs to be on only if you want grid power into the inverter. It can be off if you want but the inverter would never be able to automatically shift to grid (bypass) if PV Array and battery cannot support the loads. This would be similar to an entirely off grid setup where there is no "grid" available. You could turn them on and shift the inverter to AC1ST if you need to charge the batteries.
If as you implied the "Main" panel did not have grid input as the input was from the Transfer switch then event the hard wired inverter did not have grid input

You can have either inverter as Master, doesn't matter.

The right inverter could not go into standby as there was no grid input. If the battery and PV array are not enough to support the load output the inverter will shut down because with no grid input it can't shift into bypass. It's possible some load on the subpanel kicked on (hot water heater?) that caused the inverter to shut down.

For the negative cable yes, connect to the bottom battery. This is a normal connection for multiple batteries connected in parallel to better force all batteries to equally support the load.

You might find that additional batteries would be a good thing to add as your budget allows.

Thank you. Hoping my marked up photo helps explain what I have going on in my situation.

I will get a 2 pole 40 amp breakers and replace the single pole so I can feed 120V to each inverter via AC IN.

The RIGHT SIDE inverter is the master - stays it on the screen. I still think something is not right in the settings. The Master sets the slave to the same settings as the master so I only need to change one inverter settings. I could NOT get the inverter to charge the batteries via grid last night after several attempts. The battery was at 51.8V last night and I still couldn't get the AC IN to kick on. Even though I set the settings to kick back on at 52v and even raised it to 52.4 and nothing kicked on. So I shut it all off and put it all back on grid until I can figure out to get them recharged again.

***I have noticed that when I flip the MASTER inverter AC IN breaker to the ON position, its makes the slave inverter have an error and says 39, which is "inconsistent voltage." Is this error causing the AC IN/CHARGER not to kick on?

I will change the negative cable on the battery so its on the slave negative terminal so current passing through the batteries more evenly as you said. Good catch.

I cannot confirm the water heater kicked on to be honest. It never kicks on until we open faucets and use hot water for a little while. I never heard it kick on and its not out of the realm of possibilities for that to have kicked on over night on the test.

I have the main disconnect for my 200amp service outside near the meter, that is how they do it now in MA and that's the 2020 code, so this means that I couldn't install an interlock on my panel and had to use a manual transfer switch/subpanel. So I am technically not grid tied since it cannot switch back and forth from grid to solar with this set up. Not grid tied for the circuits at least, just grid for charging.

 

[42OhmsPA]

You need to get them on a double pole breaker, as suggested, that will more than likely take care of the error; they need to act as one unit....

Did you have AC input fed to both when you tried to get them to charge?

 

[jcallesano]

You need to get them on a double pole breaker, as suggested, that will more than likely take care of the error; they need to act as one unit....

Did you have AC input fed to both when you tried to get them to charge?

I will get a double pole tonight on the way home and wire it up with the 6 gauge I have.

Negative - last time I charged these I had both batteries hooked together on a single inverter, this was before I hooked them up as they are now. I had a lot of trouble shooting with eco worth and they even sent me a replacement inverter since one of them had an outdated firmware and when we updated it, it crashed the machine and wouldn't turn back on, so they replaced it.

Let me retry tonight and report back - thanks guys, I appreciate it.

 

[marionw]

Even with the Inverters in AC1ST (menu Item 1 Supply Priority Mode) the inverter will not charge the batteries until the SOC as reported by the BMS (closed loop) falls below Menu Item 61 (SOC Settings for switching to Grid). If in open loop (or closed loop) the inverter will start charging the batteries when the battery voltage drops below Menu Item 4 (Battery To Grid Voltage Threshold).

You can "Force" the inverter to start charging the batteries when is AC1ST by changing menu Item 61 to several points greater then what the BMS is reporting as SOC. Wait a few moments and the inverters will start charging the batteries. Once battery charging starts you can change Menu Item 61 back to 20% or whatever value you choose.

The inverters will remember this "state" so if you were to turn off the inverters, as long as they have power, either from the grid or the batteries, they will remember they were charging the batteries and will continue to charge once turned back on (even though you reset Menu Item 61 back to 20%). If all power, grid and battery is removed then the inverter will not remember it was charging when shut off and will not start charging again once turned back on.

Take a look at this thread:

Post in thread 'Eco-Worthy Inverter not charging'

May 12, 2025

Using the BMS comms


I don't even have AC loads connected at this point, we're still on the bench with just AC and the battery and RS485 connected.

It could be the BMS is in control... I'd recommend trying open loop to see if it behaves normally. (My settings above are open loop).
What was the battery voltage when the current was fluctuating?

• 42OhmsPA

• 

 

[jcallesano]

If this is the case, I don't have 61 as an option to choose from, its skips from 57 then the next available option is 78.

What setting number am I supposed to mess with for telling the inverter to charge the batteries from grid?
All my settings are listed in a previous post on page 2.

Seems like i should check option 4 and see what it does after. Can you explain open vs closed loop please?

 

[chamilun]

the master matters as all settings defer to the master, aka ID1.

line voltage 1/line 2 is just however you wire it up.

for the output I have neutral coming out and combined, then to the panel. ground coming out and combined, then to panel. then each 120 volt leg directly in to the panel

 

[marionw]

If this is the case, I don't have 61 as an option to choose from, its skips from 57 then the next available option is 78.

What setting number am I supposed to mess with for telling the inverter to charge the batteries from grid?
All my settings are listed in a previous post on page 2.

Seems like i should check option 4 and see what it does after. Can you explain open vs closed loop please?

If Menu Item 32 is SLA instead of 485 then you are in open loop and Menu Item 61 is not available
You would set Menu Item 32 to 485, Menu Item 33 to PYL (or whatever protocol is set in the battery BMS) and install a cat5 cable between the Master batteries RS485-1 jack and the inverters RS485 jack then Menu Item 61 would be available. The inverter can only act/respond to any Menu Item that refers to SOC if you are in closed loop.

 

[chamilun]

If this is the case, I don't have 61 as an option to choose from, its skips from 57 then the next available option is 78.

What setting number am I supposed to mess with for telling the inverter to charge the batteries from grid?
All my settings are listed in a previous post on page 2.

Seems like i should check option 4 and see what it does after. Can you explain open vs closed loop please?

I would definitely set option 4 and 5. also the other setting which escapes me. but somewhere I posted about it

 

[jcallesano]

If Menu Item 32 is SLA instead of 485 then you are in open loop and Menu Item 61 is not available
You would set Menu Item 32 to 485, Menu Item 33 to PYL (or whatever protocol is set in the battery BMS) and install a cat5 cable between the Master batteries RS485-1 jack and the inverters RS485 jack then Menu Item 61 would be available. The inverter can only act/respond to any Menu Item that refers to SOC if you are in closed loop.

OK - I listened to your earlier reply and got a 2 pole 40 amp breaker and replaced the single 40amp breaker.

I now have 120V going to EACH AC INPUT on both inverters, L1 & L2. I did buy a new volt meter last night but didn't test it out yet.
I changed setting 4 to a higher value than the current battery voltage and got the Inverter AC chargers to kick in. Setting 5 was at 56.8V I think, not confirmed.
They both kicked on and started charging the batteries. I lowered the charging amps from 40 to 15amps and let it charger over night. Checked this morning and the battery LEDs are both full and the inverters both read 53.3V.
I also got no errors when I switched on both AC IN breakers on the left sides. Both read normal and worked.

I will check setting option 32 tonight, I'm almost positive that its on SLA. ECO-WORTHY told me to change 32 to 485 and 33 to PLY as well last week but This was before I got them running. So I will try again tonight as I'm pretty sure the battery protocols are on PYL. Hoping this last item will make the SOC lights on the battery match the inverters SOC and voltage. Batteries were on the last 2 lights and the inverters were reading 52.2V so that didnt make sense to me.

Ill report back - thanks again guys, this info is gold.

 

[marionw]

OK - I listened to your earlier reply and got a 2 pole 40 amp breaker and replaced the single 40amp breaker.

I now have 120V going to EACH AC INPUT on both inverters, L1 & L2. I did buy a new volt meter last night but didn't test it out yet.
I changed setting 4 to a higher value than the current battery voltage and got the Inverter AC chargers to kick in. Setting 5 was at 56.8V I think, not confirmed.
They both kicked on and started charging the batteries. I lowered the charging amps from 40 to 15amps and let it charger over night. Checked this morning and the battery LEDs are both full and the inverters both read 53.3V.
I also got no errors when I switched on both AC IN breakers on the left sides. Both read normal and worked.

I will check setting option 32 tonight, I'm almost positive that its on SLA. ECO-WORTHY told me to change 32 to 485 and 33 to PLY as well last week but This was before I got them running. So I will try again tonight as I'm pretty sure the battery protocols are on PYL. Hoping this last item will make the SOC lights on the battery match the inverters SOC and voltage. Batteries were on the last 2 lights and the inverters were reading 52.2V so that didnt make sense to me.

Ill report back - thanks again guys, this info is gold.

You only want to change Menu Item 32 (Communication Function) and Menu Item 33 (BMS Communication Protocol) if you want o operate in closed loop and have a cat5 cable installed between the Master Inverter and the Master Battery.

Menu Item 33 must match whatever protocol is set in the BMS of the Master Battery which is usually Plylontech.

If you enable BMS communications then the Inverter will use Menu Items 59 thru 62 (all are SOC related settings)

In addition you may want to look at Menu Item 57 (Stop Charging Current)

 

[jcallesano]

These are screenshots of the inverter settings on the master inverter.

Switch the inverter to the same protocol of the batteries, 61 was available and I set it to 20%. I left several breakers on overnight for another test and checked it in the morning and the inverter was reading 51% on the screen so I left those breakers on while I went to work and it's brought the batteries all the way down to practically nothing. 1 single led on for each battery. I don't know why the inverter would continue to give power if it passed the 20% threshold on the batteires. I feel like it has to do with the other settings I listed below.

What I realized when I got home is that both breakers for the AC in were off so it didn't kick on the AC Chargers.

What should the setting number 4 be? I have a set of 49.2V.
What should the setting number 5 be? I have it sent to 56.8V.

61 is on 20% but doesn't seem to work.

Curious what the following settings should be set at:
Setting 9
Setting 11
Setting 12
Setting 35
Setting 37

 

[SolarUKWM]

I don't know why the inverter would continue to give power if it passed the 20% threshold on the batteires.

What I realized when I got home is that both breakers for the AC in were off so it didn't kick on the AC Chargers.

If I understand you correctly, then this is expected behaviour.

The "don't go below 20%" [61] you set is conditional on there being GRID to switch _to_ when you hit 20%. If the grid isn't there, or it goes away, it will stay on battery/go back onto battery to prevent you having a power loss.

There is a second setting, which will forcibly stop the inverter. [59] which should be lower than [61]. If there's no grid, and you hit this, it's lights out for the loads. The AIO will continue to be powered (I think), but the inverter output will go away.

After this, it's up to the BMS to realise you are still draining the battery, albeit slowly, and cut you off at source.

 

[jcallesano]

Ok, thank you.

That would make sense since I truly dont have Grid available if batteries are dead. I wish I had that option, but I do not.
No way to do so with the manual transfer switch/sub panel I have.

Also, how frowned upon is it to mix and match batteries?

I found 2 used EG4 batteries and wondered if I could pair them with my 2- 48V EW batteries in parallel?

 

[42OhmsPA]

I'm running 2 batteries I built with EVE cells, 1 with Envision AESC cells, 1 with REPT cells. I'm building 2 more with REPT if I ever find the motivation to finish them .

I wouldn't hesitate to mix as long as they have the same amount of cells and you don't mind running open loop.

 

[chamilun]

I really like having communications. but dont know why tbh. i have my server racks using communication, but do have a 165ah 48 volt pack that is added to the busbars. so the communication info is not necessarily accurate.

I could tinker with open communication but dont want to mess with anything at this point....

 

[jcallesano]

I really like having communications. but dont know why tbh. i have my server racks using communication, but do have a 165ah 48 volt pack that is added to the busbars. so the communication info is not necessarily accurate.

I could tinker with open communication but dont want to mess with anything at this point....

So I guess the only thing I have noticed on my setup with everything being the same brand in closed loop communication, is that the inverter tells me the percentage of battery remaining. I don't know what else is different on my system with open versus closed loop communication.

I'm not experienced enough with solar yet to know the true difference or what one would benefit my system vs the other.

I think for my sake, setting my inverter to 20% is pointless because it doesn't have the ability to switch to grid, so that option is kind of useless for me.

I do however would like to change the setting that stops the AC output of the inverters when the batteries hit either a certain percentage of storage left or hit a certain voltage. Setting 59.

What is the typical voltage that the system should be drawn down to before the AC Chargers kick in? Let's just say that we're talking about my specific system that does not have any PV input whatsoever yet

 

[Mattb4]

...

What is the typical voltage that the system should be drawn down to before the AC Chargers kick in? Let's just say that we're talking about my specific system that does not have any PV input whatsoever yet

If running communications Setting #61 (default 10% SOC) will switch to Mains, or if running by voltage settings # 4 (default 43.6vDC). However I would not want to be that low before I commenced charging myself. When I was running with grid as backup I set 48vDC (equivalent of 10-12% SOC) as the voltage unit would transfer to grid and begin charging. You must be in AC pass through in order for the inverter to operate as a charger. It does not do both.

With no PV you must start a generator in order to charge since you have no grid. Depleted your batteries to BMS LV cutout would not be a good plan. So start a generator and begin charging before you get too low.

 

[marionw]

So I guess the only thing I have noticed on my setup with everything being the same brand in closed loop communication, is that the inverter tells me the percentage of battery remaining. I don't know what else is different on my system with open versus closed loop communication.

I'm not experienced enough with solar yet to know the true difference or what one would benefit my system vs the other.

I think for my sake, setting my inverter to 20% is pointless because it doesn't have the ability to switch to grid, so that option is kind of useless for me.

I do however would like to change the setting that stops the AC output of the inverters when the batteries hit either a certain percentage of storage left or hit a certain voltage. Setting 59.

What is the typical voltage that the system should be drawn down to before the AC Chargers kick in? Let's just say that we're talking about my specific system that does not have any PV input whatsoever yet

Menu Items 59 thru 62 are only applicable if you are operating in closed loop with the battery communicating with the inverter. The inverter can only know what the battery SOC is if the inverter is communicating with the battery otherwise the inverter only knows battery voltage as measured at the battery input.
Look at Menu Items 12 (Over Discharge Voltage) and Menu Item 13 (Over Discharge Delay Time). These two setting determine the voltage at which the inverter will turn off it's AC Output should the battery voltage drop below Menu Item 12 set point. The delay time allows for momentary dips below Menu Item 12 due to for example the starting of a large load. The Inverter does not shut down but will continue to draw "Idle" power from the battery. I am not sure if when the battery gets charged from the PV array or a generator the inverter output will turn back on

Also look at Menu Item 15 (Battery Discharge Limit Voltage). If the battery voltage drops below this setting, total shutdown, not just AC output occurs.

It is also possible to use the "Dry Contacts" to operate a visual or audible alarm such as a low current 12vdc automobile horn.

Menu Item 12 = AC Output is turned off but inverter continues to run.
Menu Item 15 = Complete shutdown of the inverter.

Menu Item 14 can be set to provide an alarm and if set higher that #12 or #15 (and if you can hear it, or Solar Assistant displays it) you would have the opportunity to get the batteries charged before either the AC output (#12) is tuned off or the inverter shuts down completely (#15)

 

[jcallesano]

If running communications Setting #61 (default 10% SOC) will switch to Mains, or if running by voltage settings # 4 (default 43.6vDC). However I would not want to be that low before I commenced charging myself. When I was running with grid as backup I set 48vDC (equivalent of 10-12% SOC) as the voltage unit would transfer to grid and begin charging. You must be in AC pass through in order for the inverter to operate as a charger. It does not do both.

With no PV you must start a generator in order to charge since you have no grid. Depleted your batteries to BMS LV cutout would not be a good plan. So start a generator and begin charging before you get too low.

That is basically my set up I have it more complete than that photos shows. I have everything tied in, terminated to and from the transfer switch and inverters.
I have the main 200amp panel all the way to the RIGHT, supplying the manual transfer switch AND a 2 pole 40 amp breaker that supplies each inverter with 120V from GRID.

I have 120V grid input to each inverter for charging, but my sub panel is a manual transfer switch, so when the battery is dead or cuts out, thats it for me until I turn the manual transfer switches back to "LINE". The inverts "should" kick on to charge the batteries when the hit the threshold I have set in the inverter settings.

Im looking for panels daily, I wanted to get this set up and semi working before spending more money on panels. Having panels will solve the need to switch back to grid I hope. Plan to use PV during the day and suck off batteries at night. Obviously I need more batteries too, the 2-48V 100AH get chewed up fast, even when idle and switches in panel off. It must have a stupid high idle draw on these inverters.

 

[marionw]

Can you verify the firmware versions in both Inverters. I believe you said one was 2.2.8 (or was it 2.28, be sure) and the other was 2.31.53.

I did volunteer field test installation of firmware in my inverter. Due to a miscommunication I was provided with firmware version 2.31.03 which I installed and it downgraded my inverter from 2.31.53 to 2.31.03 (and also broke the AC1ST and MIXLOD modes).

ECO-Worthy then provided me with firmware 2.31.53 which I installed and my inverter is now working as it should.
So field installation of new firmware by the end user is possible.

So the question is whether you can upgrade the one inverter to 2.31.53.

@Bill Young

 

[jcallesano]

Menu Items 59 thru 62 are only applicable if you are operating in closed loop with the battery communicating with the inverter. The inverter can only know what the battery SOC is if the inverter is communicating with the battery otherwise the inverter only knows battery voltage as measured at the battery input.
Look at Menu Items 12 (Over Discharge Voltage) and Menu Item 13 (Over Discharge Delay Time). These two setting determine the voltage at which the inverter will turn off it's AC Output should the battery voltage drop below Menu Item 12 set point. The delay time allows for momentary dips below Menu Item 12 due to for example the starting of a large load. The Inverter does not shut down but will continue to draw "Idle" power from the battery. I am not sure if when the battery gets charged from the PV array or a generator the inverter output will turn back on

Also look at Menu Item 15 (Battery Discharge Limit Voltage). If the battery voltage drops below this setting, total shutdown, not just AC output occurs.

It is also possible to use the "Dry Contacts" to operate a visual or audible alarm such as a low current 12vdc automobile horn.

Menu Item 12 = AC Output is turned off but inverter continues to run.
Menu Item 15 = Complete shutdown of the inverter.

Menu Item 14 can be set to provide an alarm and if set higher that #12 or #15 (and if you can hear it, or Solar Assistant displays it) you would have the opportunity to get the batteries charged before either the AC output (#12) is tuned off or the inverter shuts down completely (#15)

You are awesome - Thank you for all of this.

So from what I gather from this post and the one before it is that these inverters cannot charge the batteries and do AC OUTPUT simultaneously, but rather use any available PV for current on demand loads and then extra if fed to the batteries? Not really sure how that is supposed to work.

Ill get it figured out soon I hope. Im wondering if there was a different transfer switch or different equipment I could have bought to get Grid as a true back up and not have to manually flip a switch to use GEN or LINE. My main breaker is OUTSIDE my house under the meter they read, thats the 2020 IEC in MA now. Old panel, which was only 100amp had the breaker inside, and when upgraded the electrical in the house, I added a 200 amp service and the disco gets out outside the home.

I did order a cat5 cable to try out since EW is hell bent on telling me a cat6 is not going to work, but its hooked up now with a cat 6 and shows the batteries talking to the inverters by showing the battery %, when not connected via cable, it only shows battery voltage, not the percentage. Cable comes tomorrow.

 

[jcallesano]

Can you verify the firmware versions in both Inverters. I believe you said one was 2.2.8 (or was it 2.28, be sure) and the other was 2.31.53.

I did volunteer field test installation of firmware in my inverter. Due to a miscommunication I was provided with firmware version 2.31.03 which I installed and it downgraded my inverter from 2.31.53 to 2.31.03 (and also broke the AC1ST and MIXLOD modes).

ECO-Worthy then provided me with firmware 2.31.53 which I installed and my inverter is now working as it should.
So field installation of new firmware by the end user is possible.

So the question is whether you can upgrade the one inverter to 2.31.53.

@Bill Young

I missed this one, must have come through while i was writing the other reply.

Its funny you just mentioned this because I had issues when trying to update one of my inverters and the software literally killed the inverter, it was Dead. they had different versions on each and they told me to get a special cable and try to upgrade the software. It didnt work and killed the machine, legit dead, no power to the unit at all, they took it back and sent another one, I never tried to update that one, but I can with the cable and my laptop if needed. I will check each inverter tonight and report back. They are all off and just sitting there until I find a good panel deal. I will also post all setting parameters for you as well.

 

[marionw]

I missed this one, must have come through while i was writing the other reply.

Its funny you just mentioned this because I had issues when trying to update one of my inverters and the software literally killed the inverter, it was Dead. they had different versions on each and they told me to get a special cable and try to upgrade the software. It didnt work and killed the machine, legit dead, no power to the unit at all, they took it back and sent another one, I never tried to update that one, but I can with the cable and my laptop if needed. I will check each inverter tonight and report back. They are all off and just sitting there until I find a good panel deal. I will also post all setting parameters for you as well.

I used a USB-A to USB-B 2.0 Cable (one end is a square with two of the corners rounded off)

 

[jcallesano]

I will update this later today current settings I did a lot of testing tis past weekend, picked up 12 panels as well so I can start that process.
I picked up 12 CW 410W bi-facials. I was very sad with the output of them while testing in FULL SUN NO CLOUDS yesterday with a 30* on the panel. I compared this to my Panasonic 370w that is on my shed roof in the same full sun, no clouds and tilt.
The 410s would barely go past 200watts...my 370 is awesome producing 365watts yesterday. Do panels have a break in period? Like what the heck!?

I'm still messing with the settings that kick on the AC chargers in the inverters. I don't know if its going off of setting 4 or 37 or one of the SOC settings in the 60s.

I have the cable that is a printer connection on one end and USB-B 2.0 on the other - I still need to update the master inverter to match the slave.

I found it odd that when I connected the PV to the inverter it did in fact start charging, but then when I flipped the inverter AV IN breakers to ON, the grid took over and was using both PV and GRID to charge. The sun was out as well so I dont understand why it was doing that.